Date   

Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

Mikebrock
 

Jerry Glow...showing unusual awareness...writes:

"Did you notice how fast those photos were approved for listing? <g>"

Actually I was planning to recuse myself and shout at Aley to approve my photos. Sadly...and amazingly...Yahoogroups software apparently checks to see if photos are being uploaded by the Supremo and automatically approves them. Oh well...The only other perk I get is the right to park my car in the Hilton parking lot during Prototype Rails...

Mike Brock


Re: Help with Proto

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

I've been chatting with Rob and I've solved his problem for him. And as you put it Jerry, left overs from the Sunshine conversion.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., jerryglow@... wrote:

Unfortunately no. Those cars have often been "doners" for other projects. About the only chance is finding someone who used other doors in building that kit like the Sunshine ones for a Wabash car

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "roblmclear" <rob.mclear3@> wrote:

Hi guys

I have recently been stung on e-bay, my bad, I purchased two Life Like Proto 2000 Automobile boxcars in the UP scheme yellow/white lettering and unfortunately I didn't check the contents all that well. I now find that all of the doors are missing from both kits. Is there anyone out there who knows what replacements might be appropriate. I have been in touch with Walthers but they don't have any replacement parts any longer for these kits. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards
Rob McLear
Kingaroy Australia.


Re: Boats on Flats

al_brown03
 

When I first saw the pictures in the Florida Photographic Collection (which date from 1945), of a boat loaded onto a PRR F22 gun flat, I knew I had to model that cribbing. So I did: and the flatcar and boat as well. Pending approval, some pictures have been uploaded to an album in the photos section, entitled "Parker's Boat".

The flatcar is an F&C #7011 PRR F22 flat, with an AMB #9000 wood deck. I haven't found a source of the correct 100-ton PRR 2F-F2 trucks, so I used Kadee 70-ton Barber S-2s, which have roughly the right "Bettendorf" sideframe shape and approach the right heft.

The cradle was built from Northeastern scale lumber. Lumber sizes were eyeballed from the prototype photos. Contours of the three saddles were determined by measuring the boat hull with a contour gauge. The aft-most saddle had to be notched beyond what's shown, to clear the propeller shafts.

I chose the project because of the cribbing, but most of the modeling time went into the boat! I know very little about power boats; I'm told the 1:1 load is a Chris Craft, but I don't know how one knows. The model boat doesn't exactly match it: the cabin is a foot or two farther aft. The model is an Athearn boat, shortened to 25'; the cockpit roof, rudder, exhaust pipes, and scupper hoods were made from styrene. Cleats, propellers, ship's wheel, and seat stanchion are from Sea Port Models; horn and loud hailers are Herpa truck horns. The cockpit windows are clear styrene, secured with Micro Kristal Klear. The windshield wipers are from Detail Associates.

In a train this would be hauled with the boat pointed forward, so that (1) junk wouldn't blow into the cockpit, and (2) the cockpit roof wouldn't blow off.

I'm grateful to (alphabetically) Marty Megregiam, Tom Meyer, Mark Novak, and Bruce Smith for helpful discussions.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In STMFC@..., "al_brown03" <abrown@...> wrote:

In the Florida Photographic collection, search "Parker's Boat". I don't know what make of boat is shown, but I'm currently building the flatcar.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


--- In STMFC@..., Anthony Thompson <thompson@> wrote:

Kevin Sprayberry wrote:
Here is a question for you guys. Do any of you guys happen to know
if Cris Craft shipped their boats by rail? I thoought I had seen
pics somewhere of some wood boats loaded ob flatcars but I can't
remember. I thought that since I model in 1/8th scale that a wooden
Cris Craft would look great loaded.
I don't know about Chris Craft specifically, but certainly
cabin cruisers were often shipped that way. There is a photo of one
such, on an SP flat car, in my book on SP flat cars.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

Charles Hostetler <cesicjh@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:
Someone was curious as to why this
car was sent to Buford, WY.

Hey Mike -

I'm curious about whether it was sent TO Buford or THROUGH Buford?

Regards,

Charles Hostetler


Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

jerryglow2
 

Did you notice how fast those photos were approved for listing? <g>

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:

Having a C&BT Shops ATSF Fe-26 for quite a few yrs....

Nevertheless, I have loaded 4 photos of the car into the album ATSF Fe-26 in
the photo section. Oh...if you can come up with the number of Archer rivets
on the car, you get a Get Out of Jail Free card.

Mike Brock


Re: Help with Proto

jerryglow2
 

Unfortunately no. Those cars have often been "doners" for other projects. About the only chance is finding someone who used other doors in building that kit like the Sunshine ones for a Wabash car

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "roblmclear" <rob.mclear3@...> wrote:

Hi guys

I have recently been stung on e-bay, my bad, I purchased two Life Like Proto 2000 Automobile boxcars in the UP scheme yellow/white lettering and unfortunately I didn't check the contents all that well. I now find that all of the doors are missing from both kits. Is there anyone out there who knows what replacements might be appropriate. I have been in touch with Walthers but they don't have any replacement parts any longer for these kits. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards
Rob McLear
Kingaroy Australia.


Help with Proto

roblmclear <rob.mclear3@...>
 

Hi guys

I have recently been stung on e-bay, my bad, I purchased two Life Like Proto 2000 Automobile boxcars in the UP scheme yellow/white lettering and unfortunately I didn't check the contents all that well. I now find that all of the doors are missing from both kits. Is there anyone out there who knows what replacements might be appropriate. I have been in touch with Walthers but they don't have any replacement parts any longer for these kits. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards
Rob McLear
Kingaroy Australia.


Junction 2 rule?

np328
 

While looking through prototype car movement files the last couple of days, a term "junction 2 rule" pops up from time to time. Is anyone out there familiar with this term? Jim Dick - St. Paul


Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

Mikebrock
 

Schuyler Larrabee asks:

"Ah, Mike? You ARE going to paint and weather the trucks and wheels, right?

Well...the wheels ARE painted...although I have to admit that the backs of the wheels have not been painted...sigh. The trucks have been weathered but I'll probably add some Rail Tie Brown to them.

Mike Brock...wonder where the chalk is?


Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

Mikebrock
 

Pierre Oliver says:

"But how does it stay on that killer grade? :-)"

Well...if you saw all the gunk on those wheels you probably wouldn't ask that question.

Mike


Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Ah, Mike? You ARE going to paint and weather the trucks and wheels, right?



Nice model, tho.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Pierre
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 10:01 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally





Mike,
Nice looking car after all.
But how does it stay on that killer grade? :-)
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> , "Mike Brock"
<brockm@...> wrote:

Having a C&BT Shops ATSF Fe-26 for quite a few yrs in its original box, I
decided that, given the acceptable body of the kit...sans the over scale
parts including the running board...I would simply use parts from other
kits
and/or parts such as Kadee running board, A line steps, ladders from
unknown
sources, grabs from various manufacturers, brake system parts from Tichy,
etc. etc. etc. To cap it off I added Archer rivets...particularly to the
side sills. I even used Accurail trucks and code 88 wheels. It appears
that
I may have followed the example of quite a few rr's during the 30's/40's
by
claiming that a car or engine was repaired or modified when actually it
contained very little of the original. Saved them taxes apparently.
Anyhow,
this project should have been easy...right? Wrong. The holes didn't line
up
correctly for the replacing parts and, of course, there was the problem of
attaching plastic to non plastic. I had to fill quite a few holes. Then
there was the cost of my therapist to consider... Any idea how many used
parts from other kits I examined? Anyhow, regardless, I managed to
complete
the project...thank goodness for weathering...although I just realized I
have applied no chalk marks. I assume that there should at least be a
question mark somewhere indicating that someone was curious as to why this
car was sent to Buford, WY.

Nevertheless, I have loaded 4 photos of the car into the album ATSF Fe-26
in
the photo section. Oh...if you can come up with the number of Archer
rivets
on the car, you get a Get Out of Jail Free card.

Mike Brock


Re: A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Mike,
Nice looking car after all.
But how does it stay on that killer grade? :-)
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:

Having a C&BT Shops ATSF Fe-26 for quite a few yrs in its original box, I
decided that, given the acceptable body of the kit...sans the over scale
parts including the running board...I would simply use parts from other kits
and/or parts such as Kadee running board, A line steps, ladders from unknown
sources, grabs from various manufacturers, brake system parts from Tichy,
etc. etc. etc. To cap it off I added Archer rivets...particularly to the
side sills. I even used Accurail trucks and code 88 wheels. It appears that
I may have followed the example of quite a few rr's during the 30's/40's by
claiming that a car or engine was repaired or modified when actually it
contained very little of the original. Saved them taxes apparently. Anyhow,
this project should have been easy...right? Wrong. The holes didn't line up
correctly for the replacing parts and, of course, there was the problem of
attaching plastic to non plastic. I had to fill quite a few holes. Then
there was the cost of my therapist to consider... Any idea how many used
parts from other kits I examined? Anyhow, regardless, I managed to complete
the project...thank goodness for weathering...although I just realized I
have applied no chalk marks. I assume that there should at least be a
question mark somewhere indicating that someone was curious as to why this
car was sent to Buford, WY.

Nevertheless, I have loaded 4 photos of the car into the album ATSF Fe-26 in
the photo section. Oh...if you can come up with the number of Archer rivets
on the car, you get a Get Out of Jail Free card.

Mike Brock


A C&BT Shops Fe-26 lives...finally

Mikebrock
 

Having a C&BT Shops ATSF Fe-26 for quite a few yrs in its original box, I decided that, given the acceptable body of the kit...sans the over scale parts including the running board...I would simply use parts from other kits and/or parts such as Kadee running board, A line steps, ladders from unknown sources, grabs from various manufacturers, brake system parts from Tichy, etc. etc. etc. To cap it off I added Archer rivets...particularly to the side sills. I even used Accurail trucks and code 88 wheels. It appears that I may have followed the example of quite a few rr's during the 30's/40's by claiming that a car or engine was repaired or modified when actually it contained very little of the original. Saved them taxes apparently. Anyhow, this project should have been easy...right? Wrong. The holes didn't line up correctly for the replacing parts and, of course, there was the problem of attaching plastic to non plastic. I had to fill quite a few holes. Then there was the cost of my therapist to consider... Any idea how many used parts from other kits I examined? Anyhow, regardless, I managed to complete the project...thank goodness for weathering...although I just realized I have applied no chalk marks. I assume that there should at least be a question mark somewhere indicating that someone was curious as to why this car was sent to Buford, WY.

Nevertheless, I have loaded 4 photos of the car into the album ATSF Fe-26 in the photo section. Oh...if you can come up with the number of Archer rivets on the car, you get a Get Out of Jail Free card.

Mike Brock


Re: Duryea underframe

mopacfirst
 

I don't see those on the Tangent site. Am I missing something?

The link takes me to what should be the right page.

Ron Merrick

--- In STMFC@..., "tangentscalemodels" <tangentscalemodels@...> wrote:

Mark,

Assuming you are looking for HO parts, Duryea Underframe draft gear parts from Tangent Scale Models B&O O-59 gondolas are at:

http://tangentscalemodels.com/bethlehem70tongondolakitsandparts.aspx

David Lehlbach
Tangent Scale Models


--- In STMFC@..., "Mark M" <bnonut@> wrote:

Does anyone have suggestions on Duryea underframes. They use small angles which are not available.


Sincerely, Mark Morgan


Re: Speedwitch KC105 Wabash boxcar ends

mopacfirst
 

I had forgotten (or never realized) that Ted did different versions of this car. I have two of what's called KC105.1 (just marked KC105 on the box), and would have gladly had one of the KC105.3 instead.

BTW, some years ago I built a couple of MoPac cars, which also have that long bolster-to-bolster sidesill, using the IM and some styrene for the sills. Look pretty good, I think, but I'll grant you I hate that IM floor. It's not even the right height and I've done two or three different things to correct the dozen or so IM undecs I have consumed so far. But that horrible underframe is under the 10'0 six-panel car too, so I've gotten used to butchery.

Ron Merrick

--- In STMFC@..., "ealabhan0" <ealabhan0@...> wrote:

--- In STMFC@..., Ryan Reed wrote:
Regarding these Speedwitch/Branchline Wabash 1942 AAR boxcar kits, does anyone know why Ted included resin ends? <snip>
Ryan,

Ted did multiple variations of Wabash 10ft6in IH boxcars with Decatur shops' bolster-to-bolster sills; all kits used Branchline bodies with Branchline rectangular panel roofs. Two series of wartime WAB modified 1937 AAR ("1942") boxcars are directly modelable with Intermountain's kit - but then, as Tim noted, the underframe and especially the roof are a bit funky. If you go with IMRC, suggest you at least replace their roof with either Red Caboose's or Branchline's rectangular panel roof. Speedwitch kits are:

- KC105.1 Wabash Postwar AAR Box Car - models WAB 88000-88199 and 88700-89299, blt 1947-48; includes resin 4/4 postwar early (rolling pin) Improved Dreadnaught ends without poling pocket tabs, Superior 7-panel doors, and long sills.

- KC105.2 Ann Arbor Postwar AAR Box Car - models AA 69000-68049 blt 5-47; includes same resin parts except prewar Youngstown Steel Doors.

- KC-105.3 Wabash Modified 1937 AAR Box Car - models WAB 86000-86874 blt 1942 (also could be used for NJI&I 4100-4149 (1944) if you can find decals); includes resin 5/5 Dreadnaught ends, Sup 7P doors, and long sills.

Hope this helps, Dave Sieber, Reno NV


ICC "Perishable Freight Investigation" requested by the USRA

Bill Welch
 

Thanks to some information kindly sent to me by the very generous Dan
Holbrook, I learned that the USRA requested the "advice, assistance
and co-operation of the Interstate Commerce Commission" in an
"investigation [of]...a consolidated tariff which the United States
Railroad Administration has printed, entitled 'Perishable Protective
Tariff No. 1,' containing rules, regulations and charges applicable
to the handling and protection of perishable freight of all kinds,
which the Railroad Administration wishes to make effective throughout
the country."

Intrigued I googled "Perishable Freight Investigation" and found in
"Google Books" the "Quarterly Digest of Decisions Under the
Interstate Commerce Act 1921" that contains what is apparentely the
results of their "investigation." This volume can be downloaded. Here
is the link:

http://books.google.com/books/download/
Quarterly_digest_of_decisions_under_the.pdf?
id=4vw8AAAAYAAJ&hl=en&capid=AFLRE710koaaOCUpjnqDaRB86C86OvzoQMLC5ramdzr4
vCXh-vfSwO8LwLh_m8DNiFOKX-
jjnuN3F7_JG23KucgPOLXcfFp0Qw&continue=http://books.google.com/books/
download/Quarterly_digest_of_decisions_under_the.pdf%3Fid%
3D4vw8AAAAYAAJ%26output%3Dpdf%26hl%3Den

For those interested, a quick run through yielded several pages as
follows related to the ICC's "Perishable Freight Investigation". I
probably missed some references.

PDF page 24-25: Actual page 15-16
PDF page 57: Actual page 48
PDF page 64: Actual page 55
PDF page 66: Actual page 57
PDF page 71-72: Actual page 62-63
PDF page 78: Actual page 69--PDF page 81: Actual page 72
PDF page 83: Actual page 74--PDF page 86: Actual page 77
PDF page 92: Actual page 83--PDF page 99: Actual page 90
PDF page 107: Actual page 98
PDF page 109: Actual page 100
PDF page 111-112: Actual page 102-103
PDF page 116: Actual page 107

I don't pretend to understand much of this and will be counting on
the likes of Bill McCoy, Jerry Stewart, Greg Martin, and Dan to help
me understand the language and meaning of many of the rules.

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727-470-9930
fgexbill@...


Re: Speedwitch KC105 Wabash boxcar ends

David Sieber
 

--- In STMFC@..., Ryan Reed wrote:
Regarding these Speedwitch/Branchline Wabash 1942 AAR boxcar kits, does anyone know why Ted included resin ends? Is there something different from the usual 4/4 ends on a Branchline or Intermountain kit? The kit also had resin 7 panel Superior doors. I'd like to do a few of those Wabash boxcars from Intermountains (scratching the sills myself out of Evergreen) but I'm concerned that I'm missing something with the ends... Any pointers?
Ryan,

Ted did multiple variations of Wabash 10ft6in IH boxcars with Decatur shops' bolster-to-bolster sills; all kits used Branchline bodies with Branchline rectangular panel roofs. Two series of wartime WAB modified 1937 AAR ("1942") boxcars are directly modelable with Intermountain's kit - but then, as Tim noted, the underframe and especially the roof are a bit funky. If you go with IMRC, suggest you at least replace their roof with either Red Caboose's or Branchline's rectangular panel roof. Speedwitch kits are:

- KC105.1 Wabash Postwar AAR Box Car - models WAB 88000-88199 and 88700-89299, blt 1947-48; includes resin 4/4 postwar early (rolling pin) Improved Dreadnaught ends without poling pocket tabs, Superior 7-panel doors, and long sills.

- KC105.2 Ann Arbor Postwar AAR Box Car - models AA 69000-68049 blt 5-47; includes same resin parts except prewar Youngstown Steel Doors.

- KC-105.3 Wabash Modified 1937 AAR Box Car - models WAB 86000-86874 blt 1942 (also could be used for NJI&I 4100-4149 (1944) if you can find decals); includes resin 5/5 Dreadnaught ends, Sup 7P doors, and long sills.

Hope this helps, Dave Sieber, Reno NV


Re: Speedwitch KC105 Wabash boxcar ends

Tim O'Connor
 

Ryan

Branchline did 4 ends I think -- DESPATCH, ACF (aka Dartnot), R+3/4 improved dreadnaught, and a 4/4 dreadnaught.

However, there are actually MULTIPLE prototype versions of each of the latter two ends -- I know Intermountain produced
a different version than Branchline so you can correctly model some prototypes that you can't do correctly with Branchline's
kit - and vice versa. (This included some Canadian cars, for example.)

Whatever end Ted put in the kit, it's probably a question of being the perfect end for that combination of car body, roof,
ends and underframe.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "rreed_eagle" <twogreyhounds@...>


Well, 1942 standard design with 4/4 ends. I thought that the Branchline kit came with 4/4 ends, but it's been a while since I built one so maybe not. Maybe that's why the Speedwitch kit had resin ends. With the IM floor, isn't it okay for 6' door cars but not for 7' or 8' doors? Maybe I'll just use Branchline kits and if need be use IM 4/4 ends.

Ryan Reed


Re: Speedwitch KC105 Wabash boxcar ends

Benjamin Hom
 

Ryan Reed wrote:
"Well, 1942 standard design with 4/4 ends. I thought that the Branchline kit
came

with 4/4 ends, but it's been a while since I built one so maybe not. Maybe
that's why the Speedwitch kit had resin ends. With the IM floor, isn't it okay
for 6' door cars but not for 7' or 8' doors? Maybe I'll just use Branchline kits

and if need be use IM 4/4 ends."

Ryan, unless you need to have this kit done tomorrow, I'd advise you to wait
until the real Wabash experts (Chet French, etc.) or real experts (Richard
Hendrickson) weigh in as you've gotten nothing but a bunch of maybes and
speculation.  Also, have you tried e-mailing Ted off-list?


Ben Hom


Re: Speedwitch KC105 Wabash boxcar ends

Ryan Reed
 

What is the basis for the kit -- Branchline or Intermountain car body?

A 1942 era AAR 10'6" box car would have 5/5 dreadnaught ends. Is that what comes with the kit?

The Intermountain 10'6" 1940 era kits come with a really funky roof, but they do have 5/5 ends.

A Branchline 10'6" postwar era kit comes with a good rectangular panel roof, but does not have 5/5 ends.

I think the Intermountain 10'6" 1940 era body has a funky floor (incorrect # and/or placement of stringers).
Seems like something that would make a difference to Ted...

Well, 1942 standard design with 4/4 ends. I thought that the Branchline kit came with 4/4 ends, but it's been a while since I built one so maybe not. Maybe that's why the Speedwitch kit had resin ends. With the IM floor, isn't it okay for 6' door cars but not for 7' or 8' doors? Maybe I'll just use Branchline kits and if need be use IM 4/4 ends.

Ryan Reed

86041 - 86060 of 195621