Todd Horton wrote:

When you say it's way off what do you mean? I'm not familiar with photo shop. I see that the upper right corner is dark but everything seems normal.

Todd, it's way green. Everything in the photo is greenish. That means the dyes have shifted or that the light was funny when the photo was taken. The color balance is readily corrected in Photoshop.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history

On Aug 11, 2012, at 11:35 AM, EdwardM wrote:

I believe some called them vesties.

I'd hoped you were referring to a glorious Firesign Theater album, something like "We're All Bozos On This Bus".--
"Not only is it not right, it's not even wrong!"
From Wolfgang Pauli, perpetrator of the Pauli Exclusion Principle

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <repairman87@...> wrote:

What methods could be used to shape the corrugations on the end doors? I was thinking cutting out the shape of the ribs and rounding over the edges? Not sure what to do on the bottom of the ribs as they appear to be round.

This would be for O scale.

Thank you,
Scott McDonald

The big problem with the different iterations of the Dreadnaught end is they are more than shapes applied to a flat surface... although some of the models of forty and fifty years ago rendered them as such. Often, they swell above and below the plane that makes the edges; if they are all outward from that plane, the bottom of the pressings is joined by curved surfaces, not flat.

Rob's suggestion to model it as a solid and have it 3-D printed is a good one, I'll add that if the surfaces are well modeled, you might find someone that can cut it in plastic on a hobbyist grade CNC mill. Either way, you need more information to generate the CAD model than is typically available from either plans published in the hobby press, or the general arrangement drawings published in the Car Builder's Cyclopedia. You need a drawing that has several sectional views, both vertical and horizontal, taken at different points to have enough information to accurately model the shape.

Who built the prototype? If Pullman-Standard or one of its predecessor companies, there is a good chance the Pullman Library at the Illinois Railway Museum has the drawings.

Dennis

When you say it's way off what do you mean?  I'm not familiar with photo shop. I see that the upper right corner is dark but everything seems normal.


Todd Horton


________________________________
From: Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@opendoor.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] PRR covered hoppers colors


 

On Aug 13, 2012, at 9:20 AM, Todd Horton wrote:

I know there's been some debate about the color on the Kadeee PS-2
(H34) hoppers. I ran across this photo that I thought was
interesting. Notice how light the car to the left is compared to
the car to the right. Also notice how white the shirt is of the guy
riding the locomotive and the striping on the locomotive.

I hate to rain on your parade, Todd, but the color on that slide is
way off. Doesn't invalidate your point, but I'd photoshop the image
and color-correct it before I used it as a color guide.

Richard Hendrickson

On Aug 13, 2012, at 9:20 AM, Todd Horton wrote:

I know there's been some debate about the color on the Kadeee PS-2
(H34) hoppers. I ran across this photo that I thought was
interesting. Notice how light the car to the left is compared to
the car to the right. Also notice how white the shirt is of the guy
riding the locomotive and the striping on the locomotive.

I hate to rain on your parade, Todd, but the color on that slide is
way off. Doesn't invalidate your point, but I'd photoshop the image
and color-correct it before I used it as a color guide.

Richard Hendrickson

Scott
What car are you referring to?
Scott Haycock

I know there's been some debate about the color on the Kadeee PS-2 (H34) hoppers. I ran across this photo that I thought was interesting. Notice how light the car to the left is compared to the car to the right. Also notice how white the shirt is of the guy riding the locomotive and the striping on the locomotive. 

http://pcapp1.tripod.com/8-13-2005%207-42-34%20PM_0062.jpg

Todd Horton

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dang. That IS sad. He had quite an extensive product list.


Thanks!
--

Brian P. Ehni

From: <cepropst@q.com>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, August 13, 2012 10:37 AM
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Oddball update






Awhile back I asked if anyone has had trouble getting decals from Oddballs.
Here¹s an update on the sad state of affairs.
Jason Klocke placed a rather large order, never received it and got the run
around when he inquired. He contacted the Kansas state attorney general¹s
office and then received a refund check from Tom that bounced. Now the state
will force Tom to send Jason a money order. If anyone else would to try and
get their money back please contact Nancy Tellez at 1-785-296-3751 she would
like to hear from you.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

Awhile back I asked if anyone has had trouble getting decals from Oddballs. Here’s an update on the sad state of affairs.
Jason Klocke placed a rather large order, never received it and got the run around when he inquired. He contacted the Kansas state attorney general’s office and then received a refund check from Tom that bounced. Now the state will force Tom to send Jason a money order. If anyone else would to try and get their money back please contact Nancy Tellez at 1-785-296-3751 she would like to hear from you.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thank you, Rob
Very encouraging! As to small details like hinges I would probably resin cast from a scratchbuilt master anyway. Adding them then to a 3-D printed part and then re-molding would be my approach, I believe, for projects like the one that started this thread. I have built a car end master for the SAL version of the round roof boxcars like the B-7,to retrofit to the bowser cars (PRR prototypes), which produces a close enough model for me. But this is a much simpler end than the door in question. When I have time I'm going to study the photos- I seem to recall a commercial model of an end door car somewhere; MDC? that also might provide a starting point.
Scott Haycock

yes, I was referring to the free version of Sketchup. I understand there are useful tools in the pay version, but have managed with what I am doing.

Learning curve - well, of course, I'm still on it. For insertion of details like door hinges into the side of a reefer, I can find Sketchup a real pain. But for most drawing, I'd say a month of sustained drawing in spare time will cause you to bump into enough challenges that you'll learn most of it.

Rob

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Scott H. Haycock " <shhaycock@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 11:16 PM
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Scratchbuilding a Dreadnaught end door.

Rob, I have Sketchup and a book and have just started learning this program for this very reason (3d printing). Are you referring to the free version? I have learned Cadrail but it took awhile. Cad is a different type of program and not suited to drawing solid objects, but it also has a steep learning curve. Could you give me some idea of how long it took you to get proficient enough to do this?
Thankyou,
Scott Haycock

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@live.ca>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 11:46:51 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Scratchbuilding a Dreadnaught end door.






I suggest that you draw it in Sketchup and have it 3d printed. I haven't
done such a door yet, or I'd offer a copy to you in O. But my efforts with
7/8 Murphy ends and 5/5/5 reverse Murphy ends have worked out fine. Yes
there is a learning curve to drawing a 3d part, but it can be overcome with
practice, the Sketchup for Dummies book and on line resources.

Rob Kirkham










------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Forgive me, The page numbers I gave in the previous post were unique to my pdf reader. The correct plate numbers on the website are 150, and 151, near the back of the document.
Scott

Hello group,
A source was brought to my attention in another group, of more information about the bay window caboose project I'm working on. It is a 1969 Sou. Rwy equipment diagram book found here: http://southernmodeler.info/SRrollingstock/SR_FRT_CAR_DGMS_1969.pdf .
On page 282, you will find diagram 31-F-91, dated Jan.5, 1954. I could use some help interpreting this diagram.
The previous diagram on page 281 is the as built diagram for the round roof cars. This page shows a diagram for the later, diagonal roof equipped design, but also lists the no. series of the round roof cars- X2882-X2932. I'm wondering if this diagram indicates when the radio, batteries, and wheel generators were installed?
Also, I'm looking for information on these wheel generators. Maybe they are in a Car Cyc. of this-1954- era.
Thank you,
Scott haycock

Rob, I have Sketchup and a book and have just started learning this program for this very reason (3d printing). Are you referring to the free version? I have learned Cadrail but it took awhile. Cad is a different type of program and not suited to drawing solid objects, but it also has a steep learning curve. Could you give me some idea of how long it took you to get proficient enough to do this?
Thankyou,
Scott Haycock

I suggest that you draw it in Sketchup and have it 3d printed. I haven't done such a door yet, or I'd offer a copy to you in O. But my efforts with 7/8 Murphy ends and 5/5/5 reverse Murphy ends have worked out fine. Yes there is a learning curve to drawing a 3d part, but it can be overcome with practice, the Sketchup for Dummies book and on line resources.

Rob Kirkham

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Scott" <repairman87@hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 9:29 PM
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Scratchbuilding a Dreadnaught end door.

What methods could be used to shape the corrugations on the end doors? I was thinking cutting out the shape of the ribs and rounding over the edges? Not sure what to do on the bottom of the ribs as they appear to be round.

This would be for O scale.

Thank you,
Scott McDonald

What methods could be used to shape the corrugations on the end doors? I was thinking cutting out the shape of the ribs and rounding over the edges? Not sure what to do on the bottom of the ribs as they appear to be round.

This would be for O scale.

Thank you,
Scott McDonald

On Aug 12, 2012, at 5:48 PM, Gene wrote:

After searching the archives twice this afternoon for about an hour
each time it is time to conclude that the information sought is not
to be found.

Can someone please post the number series for the CB&Qs class XM-32
box cars? Thanks in advance.
Gene Green

30000-33827, 34000-34171, 34200-34599, 34900-34999, also FW&D
8001-8500, built at Havelock 1940-1944. All had Youngstown
corrugated doors except 30750-30999, 31750-31999, 33500-33749,
33750-33827, and 34000-34171, which had Superior 7-panel doors. Most
cars had AAR self-aligning spring-plankless double truss trucks from
various suppliers, but some had National B-1s. Running boards were
wood, hand brakes varied.

Richard Hendrickson

Gene

I'll send it to you off List.

Rupert Gamlen
Auckland NZ

After searching the archives twice this afternoon for about an hour each time it is time to conclude that the information sought is not to be found.

Can someone please post the number series for the CB&Qs class XM-32 box cars? Thanks in advance.
Gene Green

I have a D&H Welded ARA 1932 Boxcar #21.34 for sale. This car is ready to run. Photos upon request. $145.00 plus shipping.
Please contact me off line at pennsy6200@yahoo.com
Thanks, Dennis Williams