Date   

Pinging Jerry Glow, again

Bill Lane
 

I got decals from Jerry **yesterday**.



I use jerryglow@comcast.net Maybe give him a few days to reply? But he has
always been very fast to reply to me.



Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
<http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!



See my layout progess at:

<http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm

Custom Train Parts Design
<http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
<http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL


Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Jim Williams <wwww5960@...>
 

Tim......You can ACC some styrene in the hole and drill and tap.......I've done this many times....best Jim W.


________________________________


Re: T&P bunkerlerless refrigerator car

Jim Ogden
 

These were rebuilt from earlier Marshall-built steel cars in the 41200 series and at the time of getting plug doors, they would have been painted Swamp Holly Orange with black ends and underbody. The diagonal panel roof could have been galvanized metal or possibly black (asphaultum). I'm sure there were photos taken upon rebuilding in Marshall, Texas but we have not found them.


Jim Ogden

Fort Worth, Texas

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Baker <bakert@...> wrote:


________________________________________
I
The cars I refer to had the numbers 3000 and 3001. The two cars were rebuilt from freightcars 41429 and 41438, both of which were double or single-sheathed cars. I have heard that the cars were painted CHROME yellow and had a full-color T&P emblem of black/red/white on the right side. Is it correct that the two cars actually were painted in chrome yellow? If they were, were the cars completely chrome yellow or did they have a roof and sides of another color?


Re: tank car running board model materials

Bob McCarthy
 

Good afternoon!

      Curious, why not go to Tichy Train Group and order a tank car underframe?  He also has detailing kits for tank car under frames at reasonable cost.

      Is there some problem with them, or?

Thanks,

Bob McCarthy




________________________________
From: soolinehistory <destorzek@mchsi.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2012 2:29 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: tank car running board model materials


 


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:
Most of the 3-D printing materials seem to be some sort of acrylic, so that may be the best match. I'd machine the running board planks out of thin acrylic sheet.

Dennis
Rob,

Took a couple minutes at lunch to Google "black acrylic sheet". Lots of suppliers with stock .060" (1/16"_ and thicker, but I was intrigued by this:

https://www.inventables.com/categories/laser-cutting/acrylic-sheets?utf8=%E2%9C%93&selected_filters[Thickness][]=0.022+in

.022" will be two scale inches when you get a coat of paint on it. Unfortunately, it looks like a specialty product for laser marking signs, plaques, etc. so it's all two color. But, the sheet with the gold core and black outer layer may be useful. As an added bonus, if you chip the paint on the model, people will think you built it from brass :-) Anyway, the small sheets look inexpensive enough to try. You might also try contacting them and see if they know where to get solid black sheet .022" thick.

Acrylic sheet this thin should score break about the same as styrene, or maybe like the clear styrene often used for window glazing in kits. If it won't score well with a hobby knife, stop at a hardware store or glass shop and pick up an acrylic cutter, basically a utility knife with a flat tempered steel blade ground to a hook; no bevel. These excavate a flat chip the with of the blade, and cut a slot with no upset at the edge of the cit. I'm rather surprised the acrylic sheet supplier doesn't list one in their tools section, but I don't see it.

Dennis


Re: Pinging Jerry Glow, again

O Fenton Wells
 

Allen, That is the email address I use. I don't have another.
Fenton

On Tue, Oct 2, 2012 at 1:01 PM, Allen Cain <allencain@comcast.net> wrote:

**


Could anyone who has received an email from Jerry Glow please send me his
email address? I am using the one from his website but am not even getting
a delivery confirmation. This leads to be wonder if I have the wrong email
which would explain the lack of response.

Thanks for anyone's help.

Allen Cain

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@gmail.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Tim O'Connor
 

Thanks Andy that's a good idea. I've filled, redrilled and tapped holes on plastic cars but I've
never tried it with brass. And I've modified some brass freight cars, so I have no qualms about
that.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Sperandeo" <asperandeo@yahoo.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2012 2:35:15 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Well Tim,

If it were my brass car I know what I'd do. I'd solder brass 2-mm screws into the kingpin holes, cut them off flush, drill them no. 50 and tap them 2-56, and install the Tahoe Model Works trucks with 2-56 screws. You still need a shoulder, but the sleeves in the Kadee no. 213 gear box kit work for that, or you can slice the hollow bosses off the lids of Kadee no. 232 coupler boxes (the ones that come with no. 5 couplers). Making a car work on the railroad is more important to me than preserving the original form of even a limited-run model.

So long,

Andy


Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Andy Sperandeo
 

Well Tim, 

If it were my brass car I know what I'd do. I'd solder brass 2-mm screws into the kingpin holes, cut them off flush, drill them no. 50 and tap them 2-56, and install the Tahoe Model Works trucks with 2-56 screws. You still need a shoulder, but the sleeves in the Kadee no. 213 gear box kit work for that, or you can slice the hollow bosses off the lids of Kadee no. 232 coupler boxes (the ones that come with no. 5 couplers). Making a car work on the railroad is more important to me than preserving the original form of even a limited-run model.

So long,

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: tank car running board model materials

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:
Most of the 3-D printing materials seem to be some sort of acrylic, so that may be the best match. I'd machine the running board planks out of thin acrylic sheet.

Dennis
Rob,

Took a couple minutes at lunch to Google "black acrylic sheet". Lots of suppliers with stock .060" (1/16"_ and thicker, but I was intrigued by this:

https://www.inventables.com/categories/laser-cutting/acrylic-sheets?utf8=%E2%9C%93&selected_filters[Thickness][]=0.022+in

.022" will be two scale inches when you get a coat of paint on it. Unfortunately, it looks like a specialty product for laser marking signs, plaques, etc. so it's all two color. But, the sheet with the gold core and black outer layer may be useful. As an added bonus, if you chip the paint on the model, people will think you built it from brass :-) Anyway, the small sheets look inexpensive enough to try. You might also try contacting them and see if they know where to get solid black sheet .022" thick.

Acrylic sheet this thin should score break about the same as styrene, or maybe like the clear styrene often used for window glazing in kits. If it won't score well with a hobby knife, stop at a hardware store or glass shop and pick up an acrylic cutter, basically a utility knife with a flat tempered steel blade ground to a hook; no bevel. These excavate a flat chip the with of the blade, and cut a slot with no upset at the edge of the cit. I'm rather surprised the acrylic sheet supplier doesn't list one in their tools section, but I don't see it.

Dennis


Re: Pinging Jerry Glow, again

Allen Cain <allencain@...>
 

Could anyone who has received an email from Jerry Glow please send me his
email address? I am using the one from his website but am not even getting
a delivery confirmation. This leads to be wonder if I have the wrong email
which would explain the lack of response.



Thanks for anyone's help.



Allen Cain


Re: Uniform Rolling Standard

albyrno
 

One way to stop runaway cars on slight grade/siding is to take a stiff bristle from paintbrush and place upright between rails where it will catch axles stopping car from rolling,offset to one side so it won't interfere/catch coupler trip pins.bristles come in different colors so by matching color to roadbed/ties they are hard to see.
Alan


Re: Uniform Rolling Standard

Tim O'Connor
 

Thanks but that's not the problem. I have the shouldered screws and springs -- when you tighten the
screw down to its shoulder (stopping point) the distance between the head of the screw and the bushing (?)
of the truck is the "free room" available for a spring. Also, the diameter of the shoulder must fit through the
truck's bolster opening (what it is called, bushing or what?) but must not be too snug or the truck cannot
pivot, and it cannot be too loose or the truck will wobble.

There's the rub -- finding a plastic replacement truck that will work with the existing shoulder screw. Most
trucks are designed to work with pan-head 2-56 screws.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Kilby" <albyrno@yahoo.com>

Try greenway they have shouldered screw and spring
http://www.greenwayproducts.com/storeroom/brass/brass_corner/drawBars_screws.html
Alan

---------------------------------

Speaking of which the other day, I was TRYING to find trucks that would fit an Oriental 50' brass box car
with terrible trucks. The problem is the factory screw is a 2 MM shoulder-type screw with a spring . This
fits the brass bolster (flat brass stamping) but I've tried other trucks like Tahoe and Kadee and these do
not work for various reasons. I've also tried other screws, with and without springs. Some of you may have
this car, it's a model of an SP A-50-10 automobile box.

Tim O'Connor


Re: You may get what you wish for...Or, unintended consequences

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:

Sometime during the early 50's [ I think ] a UP 4-8-4 helper returning to Cheyenne, WY, had stopped up on Sherman Hill to the west. The crew left the engine for a few moments and tragically the engine began to head down the 1.5% grade on its own toward Cheyenne about 12 or so miles to the east. Unbelievably, the crew was unable to contact Borie to the east where the engine could have been derailed although they were able to contact the dispatcher at Cheyenne. Unfortunately, no one was able to contact a diesel switcher working just east of the C&S bridge at the entrance to Cheyenne yard and the 4-8-4, traveling at well over 120 mph according to estimates, struck the unknowing diesel.

Sorry Mike but in my world that is known as poetic justice......
or simply revenge!!!! Damn diesels! If you could back the period of this list up a few years just think how many more you could get rid of!

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: All of my Cabin Cars are done!

Charles Hladik
 

Bill,
Thanks. Finally, someone else not afraid to weather brass!!
Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division

In a message dated 10/2/2012 10:15:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
bill@lanestrains.com writes:




I am here to report Progress!

As of midnight on Saturday September 29th all of my Cabin Cars were
completed and on my layout. I was finishing putting the glass in the last
one late on Friday night. I could not wait to see them all in a line. The
rush of it all was great. One of my rolling stock "categories" are
completely done! That is a first for me.

_http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_1.jpg_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_1.jpg)

_http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_2.jpg_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_2.jpg)

All but 1 - the very first I painted as PRSL 227 - have had some
modifications to them. Most have marker lights but all of the N8 have had
some extensive reworking done to them. They are split between Overland and
Southwind Models as the importers.

As of 12:02 on Saturday September 29th I spotted 1 N6b from the first 2 I
ever painted 15+ years ago that is very likely up for a strip and redo into
Shadow Keystone. UGH!

I added a G26 in Shadow Keystone to the completed track. More on that
later.
I also got my SD9 out to run for the first time in years.

Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/_ (http://www.lanestrains.com/) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com_ (http://www.lanestrains.com/)
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

See my layout progess at:

<_http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm)

Custom Train Parts Design
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm)

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls)

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
<_http://www.prrths.com/_ (http://www.prrths.com/) >
_http://www.prrths.com_ (http://www.prrths.com/)
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf)

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! <_http://www.prslhs.com/_ (http://www.prslhs.com/) >
_http://www.prslhs.com_ (http://www.prslhs.com/)
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Uniform Rolling Standard

albyrno
 

Try greenway they have shouldered screw and spring
http://www.greenwayproducts.com/storeroom/brass/brass_corner/drawBars_screws.html
 Alan


________________________________
From: "timboconnor@comcast.net" <timboconnor@comcast.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2012 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Uniform Rolling Standard



 

Armand

I have a 4' slope (raised 1") with an 8' runout. Each 1' interval is marked . Cars with extremely free rolling
trucks willl hit the 7' or 8' mark, or very occasionally, go further. Good rolling is 6' or more. If a car doesn't
hit the 5' mark, then I always try to do something about it.

Speaking of which the other day, I was TRYING to find trucks that would fit an Oriental 50' brass box car
with terrible trucks. The problem is the factory screw is a 2 MM shoulder-type screw with a spring . This
fits the brass bolster (flat brass stamping) but I've tried other trucks like Tahoe and Kadee and these do
not work for various reasons. I've also tried other screws, with and without springs. Some of you may have
this car, it's a model of an SP A-50-10 automobile box.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "appremo" <mailto:armprem2%40surfglobal.net>

Try as I might I still have some cars that do not roll as well as others.Weighting the cars in compliance with NMRA recommended standards as well as using uniform wheel sets all to no avail.I would be interested in what others do to reach a, more or less, common fleet standard.Armand Premo

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: T&P bunkerlerless refrigerator car

Charles Hladik
 

Tom,
I have forwarded your request, but to the best of my knowledge (not
much) they were probably painted Swamp Holly Yellow, not Chrome (school bus
yellow).
Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division

In a message dated 10/1/2012 10:07:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
bakert@andrews.edu writes:





________________________________________
I have a drawing of a T&P bunkerless refrigerator car presumably from a
book of T&P equipment drawings. I came across the drawing in 1999 while
researching what I could discover about the CGW at the Union Pacific Museumwhich
at the time was located at the old Union Station building in Omaha.

The cars I refer to had the numbers 3000 and 3001. The two cars were
rebuilt from freightcars 41429 and 41438, both of which were double or
single-sheathed cars. I have heard that the cars were painted CHROME yellow and had
a full-color T&P emblem of black/red/white on the right side. Is it correct
that the two cars actually were painted in chrome yellow? If they were,
were the cars completely chrome yellow or did they have a roof and sides of
another color?

If anyone out there has accurate information, I appreciate whatever help
you can lend.

Tom




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: tank car running board model materials

Tim O'Connor
 

Rob

You might want to consider using hard, solid brass stock instead of styrene. This is what
my brass tank cars use, and their running boards are extremely stiff compared to plastic.

Tim O'

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@live.ca>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2012 1:44:42 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] tank car running board model materials

hmm - good thoughts Tim; but the cars I am modelling used wood running
boards, so the Plano running board material won't work. But that said, I
should be considering other materials. It occurs to me that aluminum may
have the rigidity and light weight combination. I just need material in
appropriate (or close) dimensions - basically 2" x 10".

Rob Kirkham

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim O'Connor" <timboconnor@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2012 10:19 PM
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] tank car running board model materials

Rob

I have used Plano running boards for coil steel cars (running
along the outside of the car) and these are supported only by short
struts. But they are quite stiff in place and have no brass or
other lengthwise support under them. After all the running boards
are made of steel, which is stiffer than brass. And in fact, they
are much stiffer and stronger than the delicate plastic running
boards on the Red Caboose coil steel cars, which will easily break
if one lifts the car using them.

When I first started using etched box car running boards I applied
long strips of DA flat brass wire under them and this does make them
stronger and less prone to warping but it doesn't look as good so I
stopped doing it.

Tim O'Connor


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


All of my Cabin Cars are done!

Bill Lane
 

I am here to report Progress!



As of midnight on Saturday September 29th all of my Cabin Cars were
completed and on my layout. I was finishing putting the glass in the last
one late on Friday night. I could not wait to see them all in a line. The
rush of it all was great. One of my rolling stock "categories" are
completely done! That is a first for me.



http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_1.jpg

http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_2.jpg



All but 1 - the very first I painted as PRSL 227 - have had some
modifications to them. Most have marker lights but all of the N8 have had
some extensive reworking done to them. They are split between Overland and
Southwind Models as the importers.



As of 12:02 on Saturday September 29th I spotted 1 N6b from the first 2 I
ever painted 15+ years ago that is very likely up for a strip and redo into
Shadow Keystone. UGH!



I added a G26 in Shadow Keystone to the completed track. More on that later.
I also got my SD9 out to run for the first time in years.



Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
<http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!



See my layout progess at:

<http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm

Custom Train Parts Design
<http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
<http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL


Uniform Rolling Standard

gary laakso
 

My work table is likely the one Jack Burgess will use as his example of how not to organize the workplace in his Naperville presentation. Last night, I had an ancient F&C USRA DS boxcar out for truck replacement. It was my first Great Northern resin kit. You might recall that this early kit required sanding of the separate corner braces, lots of sanding because they were so thick. It needed trucks for as Tim reported the Kadee Andrews would not roll. Having removed the trucks, the huge Kadee black square box looked too big. Trucks and couplers were replaced. I noticed that in building the kit, the wood Detail Associates running board was used and it had in the decades since it was built buckled. It was replaced with a spare one “found” on the desk.
That done, I was able to resume placing the KC airbrakes on the 3 NP DS 14, 000 series boxcars by Sunshine that were on the evening resin construction list. I sure hope no more cars needing upgrades appear, because that USRA still needs uncoupling rods to be installed. If I could see more of the worktable top, I could confirm that it is flat!
gary laakso
south or Mike Brock

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Uniform Rolling Standard

william darnaby
 

While building my layout I was horrified when one of heavy 4-8-2's wouldn't pull a standard 30 car train up the transition grade between levels...about 1.6%. Horrified, that is, until I uncoupled the train from the engine and saw that the train just sat there. That's when I got religion about rolling quality. Now cars have to freely roll down the grade, usually the length of the basement, to be acceptable. I too have had issues with cars rolling off spot at industries but this is easily solved by applying a bit of scenery like Silflor grass tufts next to the rail to drag on the trucks.

Bill Darnaby

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schneider
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2012 9:32 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Uniform Rolling Standard

Touché!

Seriously, when I started my layout my little Kato NW2 struggled to pull 6-8 cars up the helix. I went on a major wheel replacement program using Branchline, Reboxx and IM wheels, but all were installed with the help of a Reboox “Tool” reamer. the end result was that I ended up with a much better rolling fleet and that NW-2 (which now has part of the weight milled away for a sound decoder) routinely handles 10-12 car up the same helix without trouble.

I have also found several places that I THOUGHT were level that... ummmm....
aren’t. But, in fairness, the prototype's sidings weren't all level either.
But they had working hand brakes.... Hmmmmm....

Bill


Re: tank car running board model materials

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@...> wrote:

hmm - good thoughts Tim; but the cars I am modelling used wood running
boards, so the Plano running board material won't work. But that said, I
should be considering other materials. It occurs to me that aluminum may
have the rigidity and light weight combination. I just need material in
appropriate (or close) dimensions - basically 2" x 10".

Rob Kirkham
Gotta be careful, Rob. Metal, plastic, and wood all have different coefficients of thermal expansion; this is what makes etched metal running boards and F unit grills buckle off the model. Restrained by the rather stout body bolsters, the running board might develop a bow that breaks the delicate supports.

High Impact styrene is rather flexible because of the synthetic rubber impact modifiers. Pure "crystal" styrene is considerably stiffer. So is acrylic. Most of the 3-D printing materials seem to be some sort of acrylic, so that may be the best match. I'd machine the running board planks out of thin acrylic sheet.

Dennis

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