Date   

Re: CNJ 21000-21799 series box cars

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Oct 2, 2012, at 3:12 PM, Gene wrote:

A photo from Bob's Photo of CNJ box car 21660 built 1-27. The
reweigh date is in 1951 in this photo. The description in the April
1950 and January 1951 ORERs for CNJ 21000-21799 series box cars is
"Box, Steel, Z-bar" however the car in the photo is X29ish.

Apparently "Z-bar" doesn't mean what I thought it did, namely
single-sheathed.

What are we to suppose when we see "Z-bar" in a car's description?
Gene, "Z-bar" in the ORERs describes the main structural members of
the car's framing, and is essentially useless from a modeler's point
of view as a car with Z-bar framing could be steel sheathed, double
wood sheathed, or single wood sheathed. CNJ's 21000 series cars were
of X29-based ARA design except for the roofs, which were Hutchins.
Lower numbered cars in the series came with Creco three panel doors
(later replaced by corrugated or 6-panel doors); later ones were
delivered with Youngstown corrugated doors. I have numerous photos
ranging from builder's shots to cars till in service in the '60s. I
believe there is a resin kit for these cars (Sunshine, IIRC), and a
model could also be kitbashed by changing the roof on a Red Caboose X29.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Pinging Jerry Glow, again

Steve Haas
 

Bill Lane comments:

<<I got decals from Jerry **yesterday**.>>

<<I use jerryglow@comcast.net Maybe give him a few days to reply? But he
has always been very fast to reply to me.>>


Bill,

Do you recall when you placed that order with Jerry? Perhaps we could use
that as a barometer of how much backlog Jerry is dealing with (if backlog is
the issue).

Food for thought.


Best regards,


Steve Haas
Snoqualmie, WA


Re: Pinging Jerry Glow, again

Allen Cain <allencain@...>
 

Bill,



I have been sending un answered emails for over a month asking only for the
status. None have been answered.



I thought it was just me but am now hearing from others off list who are
experiencing the same problem.



We just need to know that the decals will be coming and I do not understand
why that is so difficult.



I have a fairly hefty investment in the Southern flatcar kits produced by
Chad Boas which I bought based on getting the decals from Jerry but now
wonder if I am going to be stuck with the kits and no decals.



I do not want to bash him, I just want the decals that I paid for and need
for these kits and ignoring my requests for status is frustrating at best.



Allen Cain


Re: tank car

 

Sorry, make that W&R. – Al Westerfield

From: Al and Patricia Westerfield
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2012 5:30 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] tank car


I’ve got a W&S brass 10,000 gal. single dome AC&F high walk way tank car on eBay. – Al Westerfield

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


tank car

 

I’ve got a W&S brass 10,000 gal. single dome AC&F high walk way tank car on eBay. – Al Westerfield

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


CNJ 21000-21799 series box cars

Gene <bierglaeser@...>
 

A photo from Bob's Photo of CNJ box car 21660 built 1-27. The reweigh date is in 1951 in this photo. The description in the April 1950 and January 1951 ORERs for CNJ 21000-21799 series box cars is "Box, Steel, Z-bar" however the car in the photo is X29ish.

Apparently "Z-bar" doesn't mean what I thought it did, namely single-sheathed.

What are we to suppose when we see "Z-bar" in a car's description?
Gene Green


Pinging Jerry Glow, again

Bill Lane
 

I got decals from Jerry **yesterday**.



I use jerryglow@comcast.net Maybe give him a few days to reply? But he has
always been very fast to reply to me.



Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
<http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!



See my layout progess at:

<http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm

Custom Train Parts Design
<http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
<http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL


Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Jim Williams <wwww5960@...>
 

Tim......You can ACC some styrene in the hole and drill and tap.......I've done this many times....best Jim W.


________________________________


Re: T&P bunkerlerless refrigerator car

Jim Ogden
 

These were rebuilt from earlier Marshall-built steel cars in the 41200 series and at the time of getting plug doors, they would have been painted Swamp Holly Orange with black ends and underbody. The diagonal panel roof could have been galvanized metal or possibly black (asphaultum). I'm sure there were photos taken upon rebuilding in Marshall, Texas but we have not found them.


Jim Ogden

Fort Worth, Texas

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Baker <bakert@...> wrote:


________________________________________
I
The cars I refer to had the numbers 3000 and 3001. The two cars were rebuilt from freightcars 41429 and 41438, both of which were double or single-sheathed cars. I have heard that the cars were painted CHROME yellow and had a full-color T&P emblem of black/red/white on the right side. Is it correct that the two cars actually were painted in chrome yellow? If they were, were the cars completely chrome yellow or did they have a roof and sides of another color?


Re: tank car running board model materials

Bob McCarthy
 

Good afternoon!

      Curious, why not go to Tichy Train Group and order a tank car underframe?  He also has detailing kits for tank car under frames at reasonable cost.

      Is there some problem with them, or?

Thanks,

Bob McCarthy




________________________________
From: soolinehistory <destorzek@mchsi.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2012 2:29 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: tank car running board model materials


 


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:
Most of the 3-D printing materials seem to be some sort of acrylic, so that may be the best match. I'd machine the running board planks out of thin acrylic sheet.

Dennis
Rob,

Took a couple minutes at lunch to Google "black acrylic sheet". Lots of suppliers with stock .060" (1/16"_ and thicker, but I was intrigued by this:

https://www.inventables.com/categories/laser-cutting/acrylic-sheets?utf8=%E2%9C%93&selected_filters[Thickness][]=0.022+in

.022" will be two scale inches when you get a coat of paint on it. Unfortunately, it looks like a specialty product for laser marking signs, plaques, etc. so it's all two color. But, the sheet with the gold core and black outer layer may be useful. As an added bonus, if you chip the paint on the model, people will think you built it from brass :-) Anyway, the small sheets look inexpensive enough to try. You might also try contacting them and see if they know where to get solid black sheet .022" thick.

Acrylic sheet this thin should score break about the same as styrene, or maybe like the clear styrene often used for window glazing in kits. If it won't score well with a hobby knife, stop at a hardware store or glass shop and pick up an acrylic cutter, basically a utility knife with a flat tempered steel blade ground to a hook; no bevel. These excavate a flat chip the with of the blade, and cut a slot with no upset at the edge of the cit. I'm rather surprised the acrylic sheet supplier doesn't list one in their tools section, but I don't see it.

Dennis


Re: Pinging Jerry Glow, again

O Fenton Wells
 

Allen, That is the email address I use. I don't have another.
Fenton

On Tue, Oct 2, 2012 at 1:01 PM, Allen Cain <allencain@comcast.net> wrote:

**


Could anyone who has received an email from Jerry Glow please send me his
email address? I am using the one from his website but am not even getting
a delivery confirmation. This leads to be wonder if I have the wrong email
which would explain the lack of response.

Thanks for anyone's help.

Allen Cain

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@gmail.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Tim O'Connor
 

Thanks Andy that's a good idea. I've filled, redrilled and tapped holes on plastic cars but I've
never tried it with brass. And I've modified some brass freight cars, so I have no qualms about
that.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Sperandeo" <asperandeo@yahoo.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2012 2:35:15 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Well Tim,

If it were my brass car I know what I'd do. I'd solder brass 2-mm screws into the kingpin holes, cut them off flush, drill them no. 50 and tap them 2-56, and install the Tahoe Model Works trucks with 2-56 screws. You still need a shoulder, but the sleeves in the Kadee no. 213 gear box kit work for that, or you can slice the hollow bosses off the lids of Kadee no. 232 coupler boxes (the ones that come with no. 5 couplers). Making a car work on the railroad is more important to me than preserving the original form of even a limited-run model.

So long,

Andy


Re: Kingpin screws for brass freight car [WAS: Uniform Rolling Standard]

Andy Sperandeo
 

Well Tim, 

If it were my brass car I know what I'd do. I'd solder brass 2-mm screws into the kingpin holes, cut them off flush, drill them no. 50 and tap them 2-56, and install the Tahoe Model Works trucks with 2-56 screws. You still need a shoulder, but the sleeves in the Kadee no. 213 gear box kit work for that, or you can slice the hollow bosses off the lids of Kadee no. 232 coupler boxes (the ones that come with no. 5 couplers). Making a car work on the railroad is more important to me than preserving the original form of even a limited-run model.

So long,

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: tank car running board model materials

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:
Most of the 3-D printing materials seem to be some sort of acrylic, so that may be the best match. I'd machine the running board planks out of thin acrylic sheet.

Dennis
Rob,

Took a couple minutes at lunch to Google "black acrylic sheet". Lots of suppliers with stock .060" (1/16"_ and thicker, but I was intrigued by this:

https://www.inventables.com/categories/laser-cutting/acrylic-sheets?utf8=%E2%9C%93&selected_filters[Thickness][]=0.022+in

.022" will be two scale inches when you get a coat of paint on it. Unfortunately, it looks like a specialty product for laser marking signs, plaques, etc. so it's all two color. But, the sheet with the gold core and black outer layer may be useful. As an added bonus, if you chip the paint on the model, people will think you built it from brass :-) Anyway, the small sheets look inexpensive enough to try. You might also try contacting them and see if they know where to get solid black sheet .022" thick.

Acrylic sheet this thin should score break about the same as styrene, or maybe like the clear styrene often used for window glazing in kits. If it won't score well with a hobby knife, stop at a hardware store or glass shop and pick up an acrylic cutter, basically a utility knife with a flat tempered steel blade ground to a hook; no bevel. These excavate a flat chip the with of the blade, and cut a slot with no upset at the edge of the cit. I'm rather surprised the acrylic sheet supplier doesn't list one in their tools section, but I don't see it.

Dennis


Re: Pinging Jerry Glow, again

Allen Cain <allencain@...>
 

Could anyone who has received an email from Jerry Glow please send me his
email address? I am using the one from his website but am not even getting
a delivery confirmation. This leads to be wonder if I have the wrong email
which would explain the lack of response.



Thanks for anyone's help.



Allen Cain


Re: Uniform Rolling Standard

albyrno
 

One way to stop runaway cars on slight grade/siding is to take a stiff bristle from paintbrush and place upright between rails where it will catch axles stopping car from rolling,offset to one side so it won't interfere/catch coupler trip pins.bristles come in different colors so by matching color to roadbed/ties they are hard to see.
Alan


Re: Uniform Rolling Standard

Tim O'Connor
 

Thanks but that's not the problem. I have the shouldered screws and springs -- when you tighten the
screw down to its shoulder (stopping point) the distance between the head of the screw and the bushing (?)
of the truck is the "free room" available for a spring. Also, the diameter of the shoulder must fit through the
truck's bolster opening (what it is called, bushing or what?) but must not be too snug or the truck cannot
pivot, and it cannot be too loose or the truck will wobble.

There's the rub -- finding a plastic replacement truck that will work with the existing shoulder screw. Most
trucks are designed to work with pan-head 2-56 screws.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Kilby" <albyrno@yahoo.com>

Try greenway they have shouldered screw and spring
http://www.greenwayproducts.com/storeroom/brass/brass_corner/drawBars_screws.html
Alan

---------------------------------

Speaking of which the other day, I was TRYING to find trucks that would fit an Oriental 50' brass box car
with terrible trucks. The problem is the factory screw is a 2 MM shoulder-type screw with a spring . This
fits the brass bolster (flat brass stamping) but I've tried other trucks like Tahoe and Kadee and these do
not work for various reasons. I've also tried other screws, with and without springs. Some of you may have
this car, it's a model of an SP A-50-10 automobile box.

Tim O'Connor


Re: You may get what you wish for...Or, unintended consequences

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Brock" <brockm@...> wrote:

Sometime during the early 50's [ I think ] a UP 4-8-4 helper returning to Cheyenne, WY, had stopped up on Sherman Hill to the west. The crew left the engine for a few moments and tragically the engine began to head down the 1.5% grade on its own toward Cheyenne about 12 or so miles to the east. Unbelievably, the crew was unable to contact Borie to the east where the engine could have been derailed although they were able to contact the dispatcher at Cheyenne. Unfortunately, no one was able to contact a diesel switcher working just east of the C&S bridge at the entrance to Cheyenne yard and the 4-8-4, traveling at well over 120 mph according to estimates, struck the unknowing diesel.

Sorry Mike but in my world that is known as poetic justice......
or simply revenge!!!! Damn diesels! If you could back the period of this list up a few years just think how many more you could get rid of!

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: All of my Cabin Cars are done!

Charles Hladik
 

Bill,
Thanks. Finally, someone else not afraid to weather brass!!
Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division

In a message dated 10/2/2012 10:15:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
bill@lanestrains.com writes:




I am here to report Progress!

As of midnight on Saturday September 29th all of my Cabin Cars were
completed and on my layout. I was finishing putting the glass in the last
one late on Friday night. I could not wait to see them all in a line. The
rush of it all was great. One of my rolling stock "categories" are
completely done! That is a first for me.

_http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_1.jpg_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_1.jpg)

_http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_2.jpg_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/Cabin_Cars_Are_Done_2.jpg)

All but 1 - the very first I painted as PRSL 227 - have had some
modifications to them. Most have marker lights but all of the N8 have had
some extensive reworking done to them. They are split between Overland and
Southwind Models as the importers.

As of 12:02 on Saturday September 29th I spotted 1 N6b from the first 2 I
ever painted 15+ years ago that is very likely up for a strip and redo into
Shadow Keystone. UGH!

I added a G26 in Shadow Keystone to the completed track. More on that
later.
I also got my SD9 out to run for the first time in years.

Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/_ (http://www.lanestrains.com/) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com_ (http://www.lanestrains.com/)
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

See my layout progess at:

<_http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm)

Custom Train Parts Design
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm)

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls)

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
<_http://www.prrths.com/_ (http://www.prrths.com/) >
_http://www.prrths.com_ (http://www.prrths.com/)
<_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf) >
_http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf_
(http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf)

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! <_http://www.prslhs.com/_ (http://www.prslhs.com/) >
_http://www.prslhs.com_ (http://www.prslhs.com/)
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Uniform Rolling Standard

albyrno
 

Try greenway they have shouldered screw and spring
http://www.greenwayproducts.com/storeroom/brass/brass_corner/drawBars_screws.html
 Alan


________________________________
From: "timboconnor@comcast.net" <timboconnor@comcast.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2012 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Uniform Rolling Standard



 

Armand

I have a 4' slope (raised 1") with an 8' runout. Each 1' interval is marked . Cars with extremely free rolling
trucks willl hit the 7' or 8' mark, or very occasionally, go further. Good rolling is 6' or more. If a car doesn't
hit the 5' mark, then I always try to do something about it.

Speaking of which the other day, I was TRYING to find trucks that would fit an Oriental 50' brass box car
with terrible trucks. The problem is the factory screw is a 2 MM shoulder-type screw with a spring . This
fits the brass bolster (flat brass stamping) but I've tried other trucks like Tahoe and Kadee and these do
not work for various reasons. I've also tried other screws, with and without springs. Some of you may have
this car, it's a model of an SP A-50-10 automobile box.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "appremo" <mailto:armprem2%40surfglobal.net>

Try as I might I still have some cars that do not roll as well as others.Weighting the cars in compliance with NMRA recommended standards as well as using uniform wheel sets all to no avail.I would be interested in what others do to reach a, more or less, common fleet standard.Armand Premo

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