Date   

Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Clark Propst
 

Alan should be doing demos at trainfest next weekend also if you missed Naperville.

Clark Propst


Re: Paint prep

Bruce Smith
 

Clark,

Dawn and a tooth brush... <VBG> I'm not sure why this did not work on this one model.

Did you grit blast it? I usually do, and then wash it. Although I've been told this supposedly "drives the mold release into the resin" I've never had an issue. I also never wash before assembly although some folks swear by that too. Additionally, if your water quality is not good and you left pooled water on the roof to dry that might be an issue. I'm assuming that the wash was just prior to painting? and that you handled the model with gloves after it was washed? Finally, paint technique might be an issue. When I heavily apply acrylic paint that is too thin I can see this effect.
Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

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On Nov 2, 2012, at 12:45 PM, <cepropst@q.com<mailto:cepropst@q.com>>
wrote:

I bought two F&C kits at Naperville. Just painted one and am ready to prep the other.
I cleaned the first one with dawn detergent on a tooth brush. Still had some fish eyeing on the roof.

What should I have used to prep this F&C model for painting?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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Paint prep

Clark Propst
 

I bought two F&C kits at Naperville. Just painted one and am ready to prep the other.
I cleaned the first one with dawn detergent on a tooth brush. Still had some “fish eyeing” on the roof.

What should I have used to prep this F&C model for painting?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Tim O'Connor
 

One of the reasons I like to use Floquil for weathering is that it can be
applied with less than 10 lbs of air pressure -- really helps when using a
double action with a #1 fine needle and tip.

In general with enamel paints (not Accupaint/Star/Tru-Color) I now try to mix
what I need for the paint session and toss out anything left over -- never put
it back in the source bottle.

Tim O'

----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas Harding" <doug.harding@iowacentralrr.org>

I sat in on the hands-on clinic. As I already have an Iwata dual-action
brush and one of their top of the line compressors, I was knowledgeable with
the product line, and the proper means of disassembly and cleaning. But Alan
did an excellent job of running through this very important step, offering
pointers and why fors. He covered the difference in single action vs dual
action. And took us step by step through a variety of techniques with paper
practice sheets. It was in the sheets where I learned, as I had not
attempted some of the techniques he wanted us to master.

The paint use in the clinic was new for me, and a great opportunity to try
it. It took me a little while to master. Which I finally accomplished after
turning down the pressure on the air supply. Alan at the regulators pre-set
at about 20lbs, which was fine for general painting, but after I dialed back
to 15lbs I was finally satisfied with the subtle weathering techniques I was
want to master.


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Douglas Harding
 

I sat in on the hands-on clinic. As I already have an Iwata dual-action
brush and one of their top of the line compressors, I was knowledgeable with
the product line, and the proper means of disassembly and cleaning. But Alan
did an excellent job of running through this very important step, offering
pointers and why fors. He covered the difference in single action vs dual
action. And took us step by step through a variety of techniques with paper
practice sheets. It was in the sheets where I learned, as I had not
attempted some of the techniques he wanted us to master.



The paint use in the clinic was new for me, and a great opportunity to try
it. It took me a little while to master. Which I finally accomplished after
turning down the pressure on the air supply. Alan at the regulators pre-set
at about 20lbs, which was fine for general painting, but after I dialed back
to 15lbs I was finally satisfied with the subtle weathering techniques I was
want to master.



The clinic was certainly worth the time, for novice or experienced.



Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Andy Harman
 

At 01:34 AM 11/2/2012 +0000, you wrote:
After it was all over I realize that I am going to need a lot of practice before I paint my rolling stock. However, I am very happy I participated and Alan was a good teacher helping me to overcome my reticence.
You'd be surprised. I got my first airbrush in 1972 when I was 14 years old. I had been building models since age 7 and using spray paint since about the age of 10. I loaded my cheapie Badger 250 up with Floquil engine black and painted a Tyco Mikado tender. It was a better paint job on my first try than I ever got with a spraycan.

I've never gotten into any of the really fine techniques. I couldn't do T shirts or any kind of "art". I use my airbrush for painting.

I also was told there was a substantial learning curve to go from a single action like the H to a double action like the VL. I believed this for 20 years. In 1996 I bought a VL, and let it sit around for a while, I eventually tried it. I haven't used the H since, and I'm still trying to figure out what's so hard about it. Maybe having to un-learn the pushback procedure for clearing clogs on a single action... don't need to worry about that anymore!

Andy


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Andy Harman
 

At 06:14 PM 11/1/2012 -0400, you wrote:

I have 2 Paasche brushes - 1 single-action, the other double-action. I bought an Iwata compressor at Naperville - much quieter than my Craftsman.
I've been using Paasche for 40 years - the last 16 or so almost 100% VL and H before that. The only thing I'd consider changing to would be Iwata. I haven't been to their clinics but I did talk to their reps at Lisle/Naperville last year and I think I talked to them again at Rosemont. It's good stuff.

Andy


Re: Atlas

naptownprr
 

Yes, and I'm currently building a layout! I just hope that by the time I get all my track lines drawn, and the roadbed laid, that Atlas flex will again be available. Surely, Atlas will want to get this product out again; it must be a valuable source of revenue for them.

Jim Hunter


Quoting Andy Harman <gsgondola@gp30.com>:

At 03:08 PM 10/30/2012 -0700, you wrote:
before we get through all of our inventory list, but the supply is
starting to flow again. If someone needs a few pieces of something
they should contact our sales department."
And if you're building a layout you're screwed.

I must admit that of all the things I could have predicted for the hobby, a
track shortage wasn't one of them. Hopefully it will be over with by the
time I'm needing it. Although I won't be using any Atlas turnouts, but I
will probably use Atlas flex unless the price goes up to where it's more
than ME or Peco or Shinohara.

Andy


Re: GN Freight Car Painting, c. 1950

Andy Harman
 

At 07:48 PM 10/30/2012 -0700, you wrote:
Somewhere along the line, the formatting for an apostrophe was just too much to handle, so you get that instead.
I thought only my listserver did that...

Andy


Re: Atlas

Andy Harman
 

At 03:08 PM 10/30/2012 -0700, you wrote:
before we get through all of our inventory list, but the supply is
starting to flow again. If someone needs a few pieces of something
they should contact our sales department."
And if you're building a layout you're screwed.

I must admit that of all the things I could have predicted for the hobby, a track shortage wasn't one of them. Hopefully it will be over with by the time I'm needing it. Although I won't be using any Atlas turnouts, but I will probably use Atlas flex unless the price goes up to where it's more than ME or Peco or Shinohara.

Andy


Re: Boxcar End Tackboards

Gene <bierglaeser@...>
 

Not only that! It will be someone you never heard of before.
Gene Green

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, wlhoss@... wrote:
Ben,
It's even worse than that, they are WAITING for you to finish so they can
produce the photo - and ask why you didn't ask them first........
Bill Hoss


Re: ATSF Ga-54 hopper with roof

David <nmrs@...>
 

Thanks Steve,
I'll have to keep searching for that elusive Ga-54 with roof, photo.
cheers
Dave North

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:

Santa Fe society open top car book:
On page 256 states, "All 75 GA-24 class four bay open hoppers and 45 GA-54 class twin hoppers were rebuilt with radial steel roofs salvaged form BX-8, BX-9 and BX-10 box cars which were then being rebuilt with all steel bodies. Six 20" x 25-1/2" roof hatches were installed, as well as interior grab irons at the center of the cars. These cars were neither reclassified nor renumbered. They remained as covered hoppers through the 1950s and then, like the GA-21 class covered hoppers, were gradually converted back to open hoppers." This was specifically done for a bumper grain crop. All of this was done in 1945.

p. 260-61 shows the hoppers with radial roofs, class GA-21 and GA-24. Text also says "As an expedient, all 75 quad hoppers of the GA-24 class as well as 25 GA-54 class twin hoppers were converted into covered hoppers at Topeka with radial roofs removed from ARA-design wood sheathed box cars which wee then being rebuilt with new steel bodies." Photos are of GA-21 and 24, no GA-54 is shown.

A low res scan of the Sunshine flyer can be seen at
http://www.sunshinekits.com/suninst/instmk01.pdf

The Priest "Heritage Santa Fe" book Vol. 2 shows 3 bay GA-21 182128 on page 129 (same photo in open top book).

For the 3-bay car, the Accurail model is probably better than the Bowser/Stewart, but both require a lot of upgrading.

The Sunshine flyer states that there were 25 GA-54s (2-bay), 50 GA-21's (3-bay), 50-GA-43s (3 bay), and 75 GA-24's (4-bay) converted this way. The instructions state "the 4-bay GA-24s can be created by converting the paired hopper bottoms of the Athearn four-bay to face one another. The Athearn 2-bay can be used to build the GA-54 by shortening the roof casting. Models of the GA-21 and GA-43 three bay cars can be built easily, using the roof adapted from the Sunshine Models BA-8-10 and a Stewart #10300 series three bay hopper kit.

I have not seen a photo of a converted 2 bay GA-54.

______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

----- Original Message -----
From: North Model Railroad Supplies
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 9:54 AM
Subject: [STMFC] ATSF Ga-54 hopper with roof



Does anyone have a photo/scan they would be prepared to share of one of the
ATSF Ga-54 2 bay hoppers that had roofs added in 1945, please.

Various numbers within 180800-180999 - 45 cars in total.

Or where I could find such a photo, please.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Dave North

Sydney

Australia









Re: ATSF Ga-54 hopper with roof

Steve SANDIFER
 

Santa Fe society open top car book:
On page 256 states, "All 75 GA-24 class four bay open hoppers and 45 GA-54 class twin hoppers were rebuilt with radial steel roofs salvaged form BX-8, BX-9 and BX-10 box cars which were then being rebuilt with all steel bodies. Six 20" x 25-1/2" roof hatches were installed, as well as interior grab irons at the center of the cars. These cars were neither reclassified nor renumbered. They remained as covered hoppers through the 1950s and then, like the GA-21 class covered hoppers, were gradually converted back to open hoppers." This was specifically done for a bumper grain crop. All of this was done in 1945.

p. 260-61 shows the hoppers with radial roofs, class GA-21 and GA-24. Text also says "As an expedient, all 75 quad hoppers of the GA-24 class as well as 25 GA-54 class twin hoppers were converted into covered hoppers at Topeka with radial roofs removed from ARA-design wood sheathed box cars which wee then being rebuilt with new steel bodies." Photos are of GA-21 and 24, no GA-54 is shown.

A low res scan of the Sunshine flyer can be seen at
http://www.sunshinekits.com/suninst/instmk01.pdf

The Priest "Heritage Santa Fe" book Vol. 2 shows 3 bay GA-21 182128 on page 129 (same photo in open top book).

For the 3-bay car, the Accurail model is probably better than the Bowser/Stewart, but both require a lot of upgrading.

The Sunshine flyer states that there were 25 GA-54s (2-bay), 50 GA-21's (3-bay), 50-GA-43s (3 bay), and 75 GA-24's (4-bay) converted this way. The instructions state "the 4-bay GA-24s can be created by converting the paired hopper bottoms of the Athearn four-bay to face one another. The Athearn 2-bay can be used to build the GA-54 by shortening the roof casting. Models of the GA-21 and GA-43 three bay cars can be built easily, using the roof adapted from the Sunshine Models BA-8-10 and a Stewart #10300 series three bay hopper kit.

I have not seen a photo of a converted 2 bay GA-54.

______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

----- Original Message -----
From: North Model Railroad Supplies
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 9:54 AM
Subject: [STMFC] ATSF Ga-54 hopper with roof



Does anyone have a photo/scan they would be prepared to share of one of the
ATSF Ga-54 2 bay hoppers that had roofs added in 1945, please.

Various numbers within 180800-180999 - 45 cars in total.

Or where I could find such a photo, please.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Dave North

Sydney

Australia


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Jared Harper
 

Bill,

I attended the Iwata airbrush clinic at Naperville. Although I have been a model railroader almost 60 years, own an Iwata airbrush, compressor and related accessories I have never learned to use an airbrush. I thought the clinic at Naperville would be an eye opener and would get me to overcome my inertia especially since I will be needing to paint freight cars and locomotives soon. The 2 1/2 hour clinic was helpful. We all got to practice different spray patterns with the Iwata double-action brushes on hand and then attempt weathering a freight car. We also learned how to disassemble and clean the Iwata brush which is quite simple. After it was all over I realize that I am going to need a lot of practice before I paint my rolling stock. However, I am very happy I participated and Alan was a good teacher helping me to overcome my reticence.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

I am curious if anyone on the list participated in the Iwata Airbrush Clinic & Demo during the recent Naperville event and what learnings, wisdom, opinions, etc resulted in general about painting, airbrushing, the their specific airbrush?

Bill Welch


Re: ATSF Bx-37 40' Box Car decals

Bill Daniels <billinsf@...>
 

But you are probably better off using Microscale decals (498, 505, 506) since Champ decals might be a bit tough to find since they closed a year or so ago...

Bill Daniels
San Francisco, CA
On Nov 1, 2012, at 4:19 PM, timboconnor@comcast.net wrote:


The question is, what is the extreme height of the Bx-37? Several railroads built AAR standard
1940 (modified 1937) box cars with advertised 10'4" IH and yet they all had 5/5 dreadnaught ends.
I question whether the Santa Fe cars were actually shorter than cars built for other railroads.
Maybe Santa Fe used thicker floors?

On the other hand I think CP or perhaps CN built some 1937 10'0" cars with 5/5 ends, but AFAIK
no one else did that -- and the 5/5 ends actually do look shorter (very little space above the top
rib).

Best decals I've seen for these cars are the Champ "blueprint" sets.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:43:13 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] ATSF Bx-37 40' Box Car decals

Let's see, 2" in HO scale is 2/87" or roughly 1/44." Something tells me that
just does not matter.

On the maps, be sure to match the Santa Fe scheme to your modeling date. The
curved map, straight map, and Ship and Travel all represent different years.

______________________________________

Sandy has had us in the dark since Monday so I sat in the dark last night
reading the latest RPCYC this is motivated me to build a few of the
Intermountain Modified AAR kits that I have as ATSF Bx-37 (I know they have
an IH that is 2" too tall). So my first question is the 1937 AAR kit more
appropriate? Second what is the Microscale decal part number appropriate
for the straight line map (Pre 1947) scheme.

Thanks for you help.

Mark Stamm

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ATSF Bx-37 40' Box Car decals

Tim O'Connor
 

The question is, what is the extreme height of the Bx-37? Several railroads built AAR standard
1940 (modified 1937) box cars with advertised 10'4" IH and yet they all had 5/5 dreadnaught ends.
I question whether the Santa Fe cars were actually shorter than cars built for other railroads.
Maybe Santa Fe used thicker floors?

On the other hand I think CP or perhaps CN built some 1937 10'0" cars with 5/5 ends, but AFAIK
no one else did that -- and the 5/5 ends actually do look shorter (very little space above the top
rib).

Best decals I've seen for these cars are the Champ "blueprint" sets.

Tim O'Connor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@sbcglobal.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:43:13 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] ATSF Bx-37 40' Box Car decals

Let's see, 2" in HO scale is 2/87" or roughly 1/44." Something tells me that
just does not matter.

On the maps, be sure to match the Santa Fe scheme to your modeling date. The
curved map, straight map, and Ship and Travel all represent different years.

______________________________________

Sandy has had us in the dark since Monday so I sat in the dark last night
reading the latest RPCYC this is motivated me to build a few of the
Intermountain Modified AAR kits that I have as ATSF Bx-37 (I know they have
an IH that is 2" too tall). So my first question is the 1937 AAR kit more
appropriate? Second what is the Microscale decal part number appropriate
for the straight line map (Pre 1947) scheme.

Thanks for you help.

Mark Stamm


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Robert J Miller CFA
 

My wife & I both were in the Friday session. It was the best thing I've done at the 3 RPMs we've been to. We disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the brush we worked with. Then we practiced 4 techniques and finally did some actual weathering on a piece of our own rolling stock.

Kudos to Alan Houtz for a great clinic. The best part is the hands on experience.

I have 2 Paasche brushes - 1 single-action, the other double-action. I bought an Iwata compressor at Naperville - much quieter than my Craftsman.
On Nov 1, 2012, at 4:14 PM, "lnbill" <fgexbill@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

I am curious if anyone on the list participated in the Iwata Airbrush Clinic & Demo during the recent Naperville event and what learnings, wisdom, opinions, etc resulted in general about painting, airbrushing, the their specific airbrush?

Bill Welch


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ATSF Bx-37 40' Box Car decals

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Steve Sandifer wrote:
Let's see, 2" in HO scale is 2/87" or roughly 1/44." Something tells me that just does not matter.
As an absolute dimension, absolutely not. BUT. In a train, the height variation of as little as two inches IS noticeable and should be present in transition-era consists. To me, the height difference DOES matter in this way, even if in a free-standing car it would not be visible.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Need a suggestion for a specific boxcar

Bruce Bogart
 

OK Ray I'll scratch that request. But do tell where can I see an example of the Chicago-Cleveland roofs?? Thanks !
Bruce Bogart

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Ray Breyer <rtbsvrr69@...> wrote:

 >>Wood sides??? What make of roof? I would like a couple of NKP 10000-10999 cars. This is in S scale right Bob???
In fact I would be good with several cars considering cabooses were later made from these cars too.
Bruce Bogart

Hi Bruce,
 
The NKP 10000's were 38 foot cars with 7/7 INWARD ribs and an 8' 4" IH, so are a little smaller all around than what Bob's thinking of. They also had Chicago-Cleveland roofs, which would be a bit advanced for a wood kit (but not impossible).
 
Regards,
Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL



Re: Need a suggestion for a specific boxcar

Ray Breyer
 

Wood sides??? What make of roof? I would like a couple of NKP 10000-10999 cars. This is in S scale right Bob???
In fact I would be good with several cars considering cabooses were later made from these cars too.
Bruce Bogart

Hi Bruce,
 
The NKP 10000's were 38 foot cars with 7/7 INWARD ribs and an 8' 4" IH, so are a little smaller all around than what Bob's thinking of. They also had Chicago-Cleveland roofs, which would be a bit advanced for a wood kit (but not impossible).
 
Regards,
Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL

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