Date   

Re: Boxcar Underside

Benjamin Hom
 

Bob Chaparro asked:
"Here is a link to an image of a boxcar underside, circa 1915. Click on
the image to enlarge it. Any surprises here?"

http://pasttensevancouver.tumblr.com/post/25540455933/boxcar1915
<http://pasttensevancouver.tumblr.com/post/25540455933/boxcar1915>

No.  Should there be?


Ben Hom


Boxcar Underside

Bob Chaparro <thecitrusbelt@...>
 

Here is a link to an image of a boxcar underside, circa 1915. Click on
the image to enlarge it. Any surprises here?

http://pasttensevancouver.tumblr.com/post/25540455933/boxcar1915
<http://pasttensevancouver.tumblr.com/post/25540455933/boxcar1915>

+++

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

jdziadul <dziadul@...>
 

I was not in Naperville, but I attended the hands on 2 1/2 hour airbrush clinic at the NMRA convention in Grand Rapids and consider it to be the best investment of clinic time of any convention I have ever attended. I highly recommend it for any airbrush novices like me.
Jack Dziadul
Sanford, NC


Re: Paint prep

arved_grass
 

Agreed. From F&C's FAQ:

"Are there any special instructions for painting the kits?

"Any brand of high-quality model paint is good and the model should not be primed before painting. We use floquil or Scale-coat on most of the models. The most important thing to do is to wash the model thoroughly before painting. We use a good degreaser (Ex. "Dawn" dish detergent, "Shout" Laundry pre-treater), scub the model well with plenty of water. Rinse the model well and when you think all of the detergent is off rinse it again. Allow to dry in a dust free location. (I use my china closet. Who really uses it anyway?)"

Talking with the owner at Cocoa Beach earlier this year, he (and his wife - both) were emphatic about the use of Shout. "It's the best degreaser we've found."

Arved Grass
Fleming Island, Florida

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Pierre" <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

Clark,
I use "Shout" the prewash stain lifter and wash all castings before assembly. Get's the mold release out of there. Needs more rinsing than "Dawn", but cuts through most mold release agents.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, <cepropst@> wrote:

I bought two F&C kits at Naperville. Just painted one and am ready to prep the other.
I cleaned the first one with dawn detergent on a tooth brush. Still had some “fish eyeing� on the roof.

What should I have used to prep this F&C model for painting?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Atlas

bill_d_goat
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Andy Harman <gsgondola@...> wrote:

will probably use Atlas flex unless the price goes up to where it's more
than ME or Peco or Shinohara.

Andy
Try precision Scale Co. in Montana. In the Walthers catalog it's about half the price of Shinoha
Bill Williams


Re: Paint prep

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Clark,
I use "Shout" the prewash stain lifter and wash all castings before assembly. Get's the mold release out of there. Needs more rinsing than "Dawn", but cuts through most mold release agents.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, <cepropst@...> wrote:

I bought two F&C kits at Naperville. Just painted one and am ready to prep the other.
I cleaned the first one with dawn detergent on a tooth brush. Still had some “fish eyeing� on the roof.

What should I have used to prep this F&C model for painting?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Paint prep

heitkamp80015
 

Clark,

Years ago when I produced resin kits, I recommended that the parts be scrubbed using a toothbrush and Ajax or Comet. The powdered cleaners seem to do a great job of removing mold release and/or oils left from your hands. Just be careful around the small details but don't be afraid to scrub fairly aggressively. Many of the liquid soaps have ingredients in them to soften your skin - not good for models.

Doug Heitkamp
Centennial, CO

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, <cepropst@...> wrote:

I bought two F&C kits at Naperville. Just painted one and am ready to prep the other.
I cleaned the first one with dawn detergent on a tooth brush. Still had some “fish eyeing� on the roof.

What should I have used to prep this F&C model for painting?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Paint prep

Clark Propst
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce F. Smith" <smithbf@...> wrote:

Bruce F. Smith asked in >s

Did you grit blast it?
Don't own such a thing.

I'm assuming that the wash was just prior to painting?
Day or two before painting

and that you handled the model with gloves after it was washed?
What! of course not : ))

When I heavily apply acrylic paint that is too thin I can see this effect.
Only use Floquil

Thanks Bruce, Clark Propst


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Clark Propst
 

Alan should be doing demos at trainfest next weekend also if you missed Naperville.

Clark Propst


Re: Paint prep

Bruce Smith
 

Clark,

Dawn and a tooth brush... <VBG> I'm not sure why this did not work on this one model.

Did you grit blast it? I usually do, and then wash it. Although I've been told this supposedly "drives the mold release into the resin" I've never had an issue. I also never wash before assembly although some folks swear by that too. Additionally, if your water quality is not good and you left pooled water on the roof to dry that might be an issue. I'm assuming that the wash was just prior to painting? and that you handled the model with gloves after it was washed? Finally, paint technique might be an issue. When I heavily apply acrylic paint that is too thin I can see this effect.
Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

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On Nov 2, 2012, at 12:45 PM, <cepropst@q.com<mailto:cepropst@q.com>>
wrote:

I bought two F&C kits at Naperville. Just painted one and am ready to prep the other.
I cleaned the first one with dawn detergent on a tooth brush. Still had some fish eyeing on the roof.

What should I have used to prep this F&C model for painting?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Paint prep

Clark Propst
 

I bought two F&C kits at Naperville. Just painted one and am ready to prep the other.
I cleaned the first one with dawn detergent on a tooth brush. Still had some “fish eyeing” on the roof.

What should I have used to prep this F&C model for painting?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Tim O'Connor
 

One of the reasons I like to use Floquil for weathering is that it can be
applied with less than 10 lbs of air pressure -- really helps when using a
double action with a #1 fine needle and tip.

In general with enamel paints (not Accupaint/Star/Tru-Color) I now try to mix
what I need for the paint session and toss out anything left over -- never put
it back in the source bottle.

Tim O'

----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas Harding" <doug.harding@iowacentralrr.org>

I sat in on the hands-on clinic. As I already have an Iwata dual-action
brush and one of their top of the line compressors, I was knowledgeable with
the product line, and the proper means of disassembly and cleaning. But Alan
did an excellent job of running through this very important step, offering
pointers and why fors. He covered the difference in single action vs dual
action. And took us step by step through a variety of techniques with paper
practice sheets. It was in the sheets where I learned, as I had not
attempted some of the techniques he wanted us to master.

The paint use in the clinic was new for me, and a great opportunity to try
it. It took me a little while to master. Which I finally accomplished after
turning down the pressure on the air supply. Alan at the regulators pre-set
at about 20lbs, which was fine for general painting, but after I dialed back
to 15lbs I was finally satisfied with the subtle weathering techniques I was
want to master.


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Douglas Harding
 

I sat in on the hands-on clinic. As I already have an Iwata dual-action
brush and one of their top of the line compressors, I was knowledgeable with
the product line, and the proper means of disassembly and cleaning. But Alan
did an excellent job of running through this very important step, offering
pointers and why fors. He covered the difference in single action vs dual
action. And took us step by step through a variety of techniques with paper
practice sheets. It was in the sheets where I learned, as I had not
attempted some of the techniques he wanted us to master.



The paint use in the clinic was new for me, and a great opportunity to try
it. It took me a little while to master. Which I finally accomplished after
turning down the pressure on the air supply. Alan at the regulators pre-set
at about 20lbs, which was fine for general painting, but after I dialed back
to 15lbs I was finally satisfied with the subtle weathering techniques I was
want to master.



The clinic was certainly worth the time, for novice or experienced.



Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Andy Harman
 

At 01:34 AM 11/2/2012 +0000, you wrote:
After it was all over I realize that I am going to need a lot of practice before I paint my rolling stock. However, I am very happy I participated and Alan was a good teacher helping me to overcome my reticence.
You'd be surprised. I got my first airbrush in 1972 when I was 14 years old. I had been building models since age 7 and using spray paint since about the age of 10. I loaded my cheapie Badger 250 up with Floquil engine black and painted a Tyco Mikado tender. It was a better paint job on my first try than I ever got with a spraycan.

I've never gotten into any of the really fine techniques. I couldn't do T shirts or any kind of "art". I use my airbrush for painting.

I also was told there was a substantial learning curve to go from a single action like the H to a double action like the VL. I believed this for 20 years. In 1996 I bought a VL, and let it sit around for a while, I eventually tried it. I haven't used the H since, and I'm still trying to figure out what's so hard about it. Maybe having to un-learn the pushback procedure for clearing clogs on a single action... don't need to worry about that anymore!

Andy


Re: Airbrush Clinic & Demo at Naperville

Andy Harman
 

At 06:14 PM 11/1/2012 -0400, you wrote:

I have 2 Paasche brushes - 1 single-action, the other double-action. I bought an Iwata compressor at Naperville - much quieter than my Craftsman.
I've been using Paasche for 40 years - the last 16 or so almost 100% VL and H before that. The only thing I'd consider changing to would be Iwata. I haven't been to their clinics but I did talk to their reps at Lisle/Naperville last year and I think I talked to them again at Rosemont. It's good stuff.

Andy


Re: Atlas

naptownprr
 

Yes, and I'm currently building a layout! I just hope that by the time I get all my track lines drawn, and the roadbed laid, that Atlas flex will again be available. Surely, Atlas will want to get this product out again; it must be a valuable source of revenue for them.

Jim Hunter


Quoting Andy Harman <gsgondola@gp30.com>:

At 03:08 PM 10/30/2012 -0700, you wrote:
before we get through all of our inventory list, but the supply is
starting to flow again. If someone needs a few pieces of something
they should contact our sales department."
And if you're building a layout you're screwed.

I must admit that of all the things I could have predicted for the hobby, a
track shortage wasn't one of them. Hopefully it will be over with by the
time I'm needing it. Although I won't be using any Atlas turnouts, but I
will probably use Atlas flex unless the price goes up to where it's more
than ME or Peco or Shinohara.

Andy


Re: GN Freight Car Painting, c. 1950

Andy Harman
 

At 07:48 PM 10/30/2012 -0700, you wrote:
Somewhere along the line, the formatting for an apostrophe was just too much to handle, so you get that instead.
I thought only my listserver did that...

Andy


Re: Atlas

Andy Harman
 

At 03:08 PM 10/30/2012 -0700, you wrote:
before we get through all of our inventory list, but the supply is
starting to flow again. If someone needs a few pieces of something
they should contact our sales department."
And if you're building a layout you're screwed.

I must admit that of all the things I could have predicted for the hobby, a track shortage wasn't one of them. Hopefully it will be over with by the time I'm needing it. Although I won't be using any Atlas turnouts, but I will probably use Atlas flex unless the price goes up to where it's more than ME or Peco or Shinohara.

Andy


Re: Boxcar End Tackboards

Gene <bierglaeser@...>
 

Not only that! It will be someone you never heard of before.
Gene Green

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, wlhoss@... wrote:
Ben,
It's even worse than that, they are WAITING for you to finish so they can
produce the photo - and ask why you didn't ask them first........
Bill Hoss


Re: ATSF Ga-54 hopper with roof

David <nmrs@...>
 

Thanks Steve,
I'll have to keep searching for that elusive Ga-54 with roof, photo.
cheers
Dave North

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:

Santa Fe society open top car book:
On page 256 states, "All 75 GA-24 class four bay open hoppers and 45 GA-54 class twin hoppers were rebuilt with radial steel roofs salvaged form BX-8, BX-9 and BX-10 box cars which were then being rebuilt with all steel bodies. Six 20" x 25-1/2" roof hatches were installed, as well as interior grab irons at the center of the cars. These cars were neither reclassified nor renumbered. They remained as covered hoppers through the 1950s and then, like the GA-21 class covered hoppers, were gradually converted back to open hoppers." This was specifically done for a bumper grain crop. All of this was done in 1945.

p. 260-61 shows the hoppers with radial roofs, class GA-21 and GA-24. Text also says "As an expedient, all 75 quad hoppers of the GA-24 class as well as 25 GA-54 class twin hoppers were converted into covered hoppers at Topeka with radial roofs removed from ARA-design wood sheathed box cars which wee then being rebuilt with new steel bodies." Photos are of GA-21 and 24, no GA-54 is shown.

A low res scan of the Sunshine flyer can be seen at
http://www.sunshinekits.com/suninst/instmk01.pdf

The Priest "Heritage Santa Fe" book Vol. 2 shows 3 bay GA-21 182128 on page 129 (same photo in open top book).

For the 3-bay car, the Accurail model is probably better than the Bowser/Stewart, but both require a lot of upgrading.

The Sunshine flyer states that there were 25 GA-54s (2-bay), 50 GA-21's (3-bay), 50-GA-43s (3 bay), and 75 GA-24's (4-bay) converted this way. The instructions state "the 4-bay GA-24s can be created by converting the paired hopper bottoms of the Athearn four-bay to face one another. The Athearn 2-bay can be used to build the GA-54 by shortening the roof casting. Models of the GA-21 and GA-43 three bay cars can be built easily, using the roof adapted from the Sunshine Models BA-8-10 and a Stewart #10300 series three bay hopper kit.

I have not seen a photo of a converted 2 bay GA-54.

______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

----- Original Message -----
From: North Model Railroad Supplies
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 9:54 AM
Subject: [STMFC] ATSF Ga-54 hopper with roof



Does anyone have a photo/scan they would be prepared to share of one of the
ATSF Ga-54 2 bay hoppers that had roofs added in 1945, please.

Various numbers within 180800-180999 - 45 cars in total.

Or where I could find such a photo, please.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Dave North

Sydney

Australia








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