Date   

Re: Decal backing color question

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Not so good because in the winter in heated houses you may end up decaling
the black styrene sheet, and not your model. Water can evaporate VERY
quickly if you are called away for even a few minutes.



Schuyler







If I may suggest trying a piece of the black Evergreen styrene. I just put a
few blobs of water on it then put the decals on top of them. When they are
ready it is very easy to pick them off the top of the "bubble" - no chasing
them around a dish!

Jeff Adams


Re: Decal backing color question

wm501jra
 

If I may suggest trying a piece of the black Evergreen styrene. I just put a few blobs of water on it then put the decals on top of them. When they are ready it is very easy to pick them off the top of the "bubble" - no chasing them around a dish!

Jeff Adams


Re: Archer rivets and microblasting

Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam@...>
 

In this case I think you need to consider the rivets as part of the painting and finishing process rather than as part of the build. Decals seem to stick better to paint than uncoated plastic

Make the car sans rivets, then blast, prime and paint with a first coat of gloss, then apply the Archer decals before top coating and applying the lettering

Aidrian


Re: Santa Fe Double-step Stirrups

dahminator68
 

Hello Mr. Dial:  I checked and the molds for the AT&SF Bx.Z/W/X/Y do include 8 double step stirrups.
These are included in all Westerfield #1400/4000 series kits.
 
I could not say why your kits did not have the steps included.
 
Andrew Dahm
westerfieldmodels@gmail.com


________________________________
From: radiodial868 <radiodial@comcast.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:48 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Santa Fe Double-step Stirrups


 

Thanks Greg, they had them! Had them made for a NYC Merchandise Reefer:

http://www.desplaineshobbies.com/store/product/44357/NYC-MDT-DOUBLE-STEP/

Verified they are side-mount.
RJ

--- In mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com, tgregmrtn@... wrote:

RJ,

Contact Ron Sebastian at Des Plain Hobbies as they make this step, we
discussed it in Cocoa Beach during the Shake N Take presentation. Seem it was
not unique to the Santa Fe as the National Car Co 37-foot meat reefers had
this same step. I just can't recall the part number.

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 3/8/2013 9:17:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
radiodial@... writes:




I'm working on a fleet of Westerfield Santa Fe BX.W to -Zs & BX.15' to
17's that all have a unique side mount double-step stirrup, and have run out
of my stash of Kemtron brass side mount stirrup steps I use to make them (by
soldering on an additional lower step from 1x3 brass).

The 11 kits I have don't contain any actual steps (but do contain the 1x3
brass strip), which I always thought was odd.

Anyone know of a replacement for these 2 rung steps? Or have any old
Kemtrons?

Here's a pic of the step.
_http://www.sacramentonorthern.com/temp/SF_westerfield.jpg_
(http://www.sacramentonorthern.com/temp/SF_westerfield.jpg)

Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, Ca



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Libby McNeill & Libby

Misc Clark
 

ha! I did the same thing at Grand Marais at the Pictured Rocks...I still
shudder when I think about it...coldest water I ever felt... Clark Cone

On Sat, Mar 9, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Bill Daniels <billinsf@yahoo.com> wrote:

**


Makes sense to me... no Goldwaers in Michigan that I know of, but lots of
Coldwater. I still remember the time I (foolishly) attempted to swim to the
Picnic Rocks in Marquette in August. I got in as far as my knees when
everything turned blue. I have never again been tempted to attempt to swim
in Lake Superior in summer again.


Bill Daniels
San Francisco, CA

________________________________
From: Bob Miller <cajonpass02@yahoo.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, March 9, 2013 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Libby McNeill & Libby




It's Coldwater, Michigan - not Goldwater. The town is located in the lower
part of the lower peninsula.


Robert J. Miller CFA
Saginaw, MI

"An architect's most useful tools are an eraser at the drafting board, and
a wrecking bar at the site." - Frank Lloyd Wright

Read more:
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/f/frank_lloyd_wright.html#ixzz1J9zQvpoX

--- On Fri, 3/8/13, Steve H <nwicfan@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Steve H <nwicfan@yahoo.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Libby McNeill & Libby
To: "Freight Cars Group" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, March 8, 2013, 5:23 PM



Hey Everyone,

I have been a member of this group for quite a while and it seems that
when we talk about refrigerator cars the thread usually ends up going
toward Armour, Swift, PFE and FGE. Or something to that effect. But there
is one large, national company that seems have been forgotten and that is
Libby McNeill & Libby or Libby's.

They used to have over 114 fruit, vegetable and canned meat packing plants
all over the United States. And a large fleet of freight cars including
pickle tank cars. I seem to recall seeing a picture of one of those pickle
tank cars somewhere.

Anyway, I have compiled a list of known packing plants and branch houses
that they used to have from about the 1920s on that might help you in some
way (see below).

And I know that they leased cars in the 50s because there is a picture of
one of their leased cars in the Refrigerator Cars in Color book by Morning
Sun.

Other than that I don't have much more to share with everyone.

Finally, the company started in 1875 and they are still around selling
canned pumpkins for pumpkin pies. So it would be great to find out if
anyone has any input about Libbys. Thanks.

Here is a sample of branch houses that I have found:
* Alabama:
- Birmingham: branch house

* British Columbia
- Vancouver: branch house

* California:
- Isleton: packing plant (asparagus)
- Lock: packing plant (asparagus)
- Los Angeles: branch house
- Nimbus: packing plant (olives)
- Sacramento: packing plant (apricots, cherries, peaches, pears, plums,
beets, cabbage, carrots, pumpkins, spinach, string beans, sweet potatoes,
tomatoes, turnips)
- San Francisco: branch house
- Selma: packing plant (grapes, apricots, peaches, pears, plums, cabbage,
carrots, pumpkins)
- Sunnyvale: packing plant (cherries, apricots, peaches, pears, plums,
cabbage, baked beans, pumpkins, spinach, string beans, tomatoes)

* Colorado
- Denver: branch house

* Florida
- Jacksonville: branch house

* Illinois
- Chicago: (produce, canned meat, lard) --> company HQ with two branch
houses, a cold storage plant and a canned meat packing plant

* Indiana
- Demotte: packing plant (sauerkraut)
- Highland: packing plant (sauerkraut, tomatoes)
- Indianapolis: branch house
- Nappanee: packing plant (sauerkraut)

* Louisiana
- New Orleans: branch house

* Maine
- Portland: branch house

* Manitoba
- Winnipeg: branch house

* Maryland
- Baltimore: branch house

* Massachusetts
- Boston: branch house

* Michigan
- Detroit: branch house
- Goldwater: packing plant (sauerkraut)

* Minnesota
- Minnesota Transfer: branch house

* Missouri
- Kansas City: branch house
- St Louis: branch house

* New York
- Buffalo: branch house
- New York City: branch house

* Ohio
- Toledo: branch house

* Oregon
- Portland: branch house
- The Dalles: packing plant (apples, apricots, cherries, peaches,
blackberries, loganberries, raspberries, strawberries, string beans)

* Pennsylvania
- Philadelphia: branch house
- Pittsburgh: branch house

* Tennessee
- Memphis: branch house

* Virginia
- Norfolk: branch house

* Washington State
- Kent: packing plant (blackberries, sauerkraut, pickles)
- North Yakima: packing plant (apples, apricots, cherries, peaches, plums,
pears, string beans, beets)
- Seattle: branch house

* Wisconsin
- Eau Claire: packing plant (sauerkraut)
- Milwaukee: branch house

- Steve Hedlund (modeling the EP&SW at El Paso)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: Archer rivets and microblasting

Tim O'Connor
 

You can protect rivets from handling by brush painting over them
with either Microscale liquid decal film or Future acrylic... both
will dry extremely thin and flat. But blasting, fuggitaboutit.

Tim O'Connor

I agree as well, plan B sounds like the best idea. I too have had a problem losing rivets while handling. I have gloss coated, applied rivets, and dull coated a couple of times and still lose some.
I am sure blasting will knock them all off.
Gerry Siegel


Re: Archer rivets and microblasting

ghslaw31
 

I agree as well, plan B sounds like the best idea. I too have had a problem losing rivets while handling. I have gloss coated, applied rivets, and dull coated a couple of times and still lose some.
I am sure blasting will knock them all off.
Gerry Siegel


Re: Archer rivets and microblasting

al_brown03
 

I apply Archers last thing before painting, find I lose rivets if I handle the model much between those two steps. While I don't micro blast, I agree with Tony's idea.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:

Ned Carey wrote:
My current project will have a fair amount of Archer rivets. I also micro blast before painting. This brings up a quandary for me. Traditionally decals should be applied to a gloss surface and blasting could remove the rivets. When and how do I blast when using Archer rivets?
Options
1.. Install rivets on original smooth surface, that blast cautiously, then paint.
2.. Blast then apply rivets, then paint.
3.. Blast paint then apply rivets and paint again.
I am leaning towards method #1. My testing shows I can blast at 20 -30 lbs and it will not remove the rivets.

Does anyone have feed back or actual experience they can share?
You're a brave guy to think of blasting after applying a lot of rivets. I would lean to option 2B: blast, light coat of gloss (think undercoat), apply rivets, paint.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Decal Tray was Decal backing color question

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

This is opne tool I don't need to invest in. Waiting for a decal
to work off its backing and picking it out of the water by one end with a good pair of tweazers has worked fine for fifty plus years. Why change now? On the other hand, a good pair of decal scissors or sprue mipper from Micro-Mark are much more useful tool investments.
No, I have no association or other connection with Micro-Mark.

Cordially, Don Valentine

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, granpa92@... wrote:

They appear to be listed on the Horizon web site. No picture though.

<http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/decal-tray-TSM9918>

Larry Platt


-----Original Message-----
From: StephenK <thekays100@...>
To: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sun, Mar 10, 2013 10:58 am
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Decal Tray was Decal backing color question





You can get this on Amazon--just search for "Trumpeter Decal" I'm
going to give my LHS a chance first, tho.

Steve Kay

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "North Model Railroad Supplies"
<nmrs@> wrote:

Trumpeter Models make a neat decal tray.

You fill the bottom tray with sufficient water so the grate on the
inner
tray is covered when it is in the lower position.

Once the decal separates from the backing paper you lift the inner
tray and
sit it on the bumps in the side of the bottom tray.

This lifts the grate out of the water, so you don't have to chase the
decal
around.

There is also a comb if you prefer to lift the decal from the water.



We can supply them, but we're in Australia - so postage to the US
tends to
hurt -J.



Here is a link to a photo of one.

<http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=TSM9918>
http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=TSM9918

Not recommending this dealer - in fact the list price is only $5.95 -
but
the pic was a good one.



I've had one for about a year now and I really like how it works.

cheers,

David North



David & Rob North

North Model Railroad Supplies Pty. Ltd.

<http://www.northmodelrailroadsupplies.com>
www.northmodelrailroadsupplies.com

Sydney

Australia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Archer rivets and microblasting

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Ned Carey wrote:
My current project will have a fair amount of Archer rivets. I also micro blast before painting. This brings up a quandary for me. Traditionally decals should be applied to a gloss surface and blasting could remove the rivets. When and how do I blast when using Archer rivets?
Options
1.. Install rivets on original smooth surface, that blast cautiously, then paint.
2.. Blast then apply rivets, then paint.
3.. Blast paint then apply rivets and paint again.
I am leaning towards method #1. My testing shows I can blast at 20 -30 lbs and it will not remove the rivets.

Does anyone have feed back or actual experience they can share?
You're a brave guy to think of blasting after applying a lot of rivets. I would lean to option 2B: blast, light coat of gloss (think undercoat), apply rivets, paint.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Archer rivets and microblasting

Ned Carey
 

My current project will have a fair amount of Archer rivets. I also micro blast before painting. This brings up a quandary for me. Traditionally decals should be applied to a gloss surface and blasting could remove the rivets. When and how do I blast when using Archer rivets?

Options
1.. Install rivets on original smooth surface, that blast cautiously, then paint.
2.. Blast then apply rivets, then paint.
3.. Blast paint then apply rivets and paint again.
I am leaning towards method #1. My testing shows I can blast at 20 -30 lbs and it will not remove the rivets.

Does anyone have feed back or actual experience they can share?

Thank you,
Ned Carey


Re: Advertising Photos of Freight Car Roofs

Don Strack
 

I assembled all 39 files into both a ZIP file, and a PDF file, and uploaded them to a folder on my GDrive.

PDF file:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6IrscCqMNSUdWJJZUk2V1pXRDA/edit?usp=sharing

ZIP file:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6IrscCqMNSUZ2hWY2RrZkdPVlk/edit?usp=sharing

Don Strack

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Gene" <bierglaeser@...> wrote:
Don,
I suppose there is a way. I just don't know how. I may even have suitable software on one of my computers but wouldn't know what it is called. If you or someone else can tell me what to do, I'd be happy to give it a try.
Gene Green


Re: Never sweat the decal job......

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Breyer [mailto:rtbsvrr69@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 9, 2013 09:12 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Never sweat the decal job......

.......because sometimes, there's a prototype for everything.

http://www.collectionscanada.gc.ca/lac-bac/wm.php?img=http://data2.archives.ca/e/e435/e010859856-v8.jpg


Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




SAL's plywood sheathed V-9/10's

rwilson1056
 

Since I model late '49 thru '51, I need to find out if plywood siding would have been applied to these cars through that time period? I have seen one photo from the mid '50's with plywood sheathing (in the latest issue of Lines South).


Double-step Stirrups by Des Plaines Hobbies

gary laakso
 

I use them for my Great Northern truss rod boxcars and they are far more resilient than the resin ones provided in the Westerfield kits.

gary laakso
south of Mike Brock


From: radiodial868
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 6:48 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Santa Fe Double-step Stirrups


Thanks Greg, they had them! Had them made for a NYC Merchandise Reefer:

http://www.desplaineshobbies.com/store/product/44357/NYC-MDT-DOUBLE-STEP/

Verified they are side-mount.
RJ

--- In mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com, tgregmrtn@... wrote:

RJ,

Contact Ron Sebastian at Des Plain Hobbies as they make this step, we
discussed it in Cocoa Beach during the Shake N Take presentation. Seem it was
not unique to the Santa Fe as the National Car Co 37-foot meat reefers had
this same step. I just can't recall the part number.

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 3/8/2013 9:17:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
radiodial@... writes:




I'm working on a fleet of Westerfield Santa Fe BX.W to -Zs & BX.15' to
17's that all have a unique side mount double-step stirrup, and have run out
of my stash of Kemtron brass side mount stirrup steps I use to make them (by
soldering on an additional lower step from 1x3 brass).

The 11 kits I have don't contain any actual steps (but do contain the 1x3
brass strip), which I always thought was odd.

Anyone know of a replacement for these 2 rung steps? Or have any old
Kemtrons?

Here's a pic of the step.
_http://www.sacramentonorthern.com/temp/SF_westerfield.jpg_
(http://www.sacramentonorthern.com/temp/SF_westerfield.jpg)

Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, Ca




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Santa Fe Double-step Stirrups

radiodial868
 

Thanks Greg, they had them! Had them made for a NYC Merchandise Reefer:

http://www.desplaineshobbies.com/store/product/44357/NYC-MDT-DOUBLE-STEP/

Verified they are side-mount.
RJ

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, tgregmrtn@... wrote:

RJ,

Contact Ron Sebastian at Des Plain Hobbies as they make this step, we
discussed it in Cocoa Beach during the Shake N Take presentation. Seem it was
not unique to the Santa Fe as the National Car Co 37-foot meat reefers had
this same step. I just can't recall the part number.

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 3/8/2013 9:17:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
radiodial@... writes:




I'm working on a fleet of Westerfield Santa Fe BX.W to -Zs & BX.15' to
17's that all have a unique side mount double-step stirrup, and have run out
of my stash of Kemtron brass side mount stirrup steps I use to make them (by
soldering on an additional lower step from 1x3 brass).

The 11 kits I have don't contain any actual steps (but do contain the 1x3
brass strip), which I always thought was odd.

Anyone know of a replacement for these 2 rung steps? Or have any old
Kemtrons?

Here's a pic of the step.
_http://www.sacramentonorthern.com/temp/SF_westerfield.jpg_
(http://www.sacramentonorthern.com/temp/SF_westerfield.jpg)

Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, Ca


Re: Decal Tray was Decal backing color question

granpa92@...
 

They appear to be listed on the Horizon web site. No picture though.

<http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/decal-tray-TSM9918>

Larry Platt

-----Original Message-----
From: StephenK <thekays100@gmail.com>
To: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sun, Mar 10, 2013 10:58 am
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Decal Tray was Decal backing color question





You can get this on Amazon--just search for "Trumpeter Decal" I'm
going to give my LHS a chance first, tho.

Steve Kay

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "North Model Railroad Supplies"
<nmrs@...> wrote:

Trumpeter Models make a neat decal tray.

You fill the bottom tray with sufficient water so the grate on the
inner
tray is covered when it is in the lower position.

Once the decal separates from the backing paper you lift the inner
tray and
sit it on the bumps in the side of the bottom tray.

This lifts the grate out of the water, so you don't have to chase the
decal
around.

There is also a comb if you prefer to lift the decal from the water.



We can supply them, but we're in Australia - so postage to the US
tends to
hurt -J.



Here is a link to a photo of one.

<http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=TSM9918>
http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=TSM9918

Not recommending this dealer - in fact the list price is only $5.95 -
but
the pic was a good one.



I've had one for about a year now and I really like how it works.

cheers,

David North



David & Rob North

North Model Railroad Supplies Pty. Ltd.

<http://www.northmodelrailroadsupplies.com>
www.northmodelrailroadsupplies.com

Sydney

Australia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Decal backing color question

Charles Hladik
 

Ron,
Already have my registration (#4) and room reserved.
Chuck

In a message dated 3/10/2013 1:15:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ronald.parisi@gmail.com writes:

Ya know if you weren't such a good judge.....
No one has time for loafing, even on my railroad....

See you in the Fall?

Ron Parisi

On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 9:41 AM, <RUTLANDRS@aol.com> wrote:

**


Ron,
Just fantastic, now instead of "silvering" you'll have little ridges
from whiskers. However, those whiskers make nice HO fishing poles. Just
right for those loafers on your waterfront, hiding behind steam era
freight
cars.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 3/10/2013 9:13:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ronald.parisi@gmail.com writes:

I'm with you Chuck, 'borrowed' a dark green dish from my wifes cat and
it
works fine.....

Ron Parisi

On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 3:38 PM, <RUTLANDRS@aol.com> wrote:

**


It is hard to read them on the paper, however, I use a black bowl to
float
off my white decals and a tan bowl for the black. Works or me.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 3/8/2013 3:35:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jmischke@att.net writes:

I've always noticed that decal backing from most manufacturers is light
colored. Light blue, pink, or off white. These can be a real pain with
white
decals, especially the smaller graphics for repack and reweigh data,
and
finding the right date for a model.

Is there any reason for this? Can decals be rendered on darker colored
backing?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Libby McNeill & Libby

railsnw@frontier.com <railsnw@...>
 

All,

I have posted a pdf file with a photograph of Libby McNeill & Libby Refrigerator Car LMLX 1608 in the Files section under LMLX. The car was owned by General American Transportation and leased to Libby.

Richard Wilkens


Re: Decal Tray was Decal backing color question

StephenK
 

You can get this on Amazon--just search for "Trumpeter Decal" I'm going to give my LHS a chance first, tho.

Steve Kay

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "North Model Railroad Supplies" <nmrs@...> wrote:

Trumpeter Models make a neat decal tray.

You fill the bottom tray with sufficient water so the grate on the inner
tray is covered when it is in the lower position.

Once the decal separates from the backing paper you lift the inner tray and
sit it on the bumps in the side of the bottom tray.

This lifts the grate out of the water, so you don't have to chase the decal
around.

There is also a comb if you prefer to lift the decal from the water.



We can supply them, but we're in Australia - so postage to the US tends to
hurt -J.



Here is a link to a photo of one.

<http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=TSM9918>
http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=TSM9918

Not recommending this dealer - in fact the list price is only $5.95 - but
the pic was a good one.



I've had one for about a year now and I really like how it works.

cheers,

David North



David & Rob North

North Model Railroad Supplies Pty. Ltd.

<http://www.northmodelrailroadsupplies.com>
www.northmodelrailroadsupplies.com

Sydney

Australia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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