Date   

Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Kenneth Montero
 

Adding an inexpensive Rubbermaid 14" lazy susan underneath the paint stand will allow you to rotate the model to varying positions for spray painting.

Tamiya makes two lazy susan paint stands sold as a set:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/tamiya-air-brushes-accessories-57000/spray-work-painting-stand-set-74522

The spring-loaded one has adjustable springs. Would this one would be useful for painting the one-piece bodies now being produced for some resin kits? I have used it with good results for plastic models because I can pick up the lazy susan with model attached to spray paint from the bottom upwards, and see no reason not to be able to use it with resin one-piece bodies (boxcars, gondolas, etc.)

The other one could be used to paint the underframe or the inside of a gondola (use a loop of low-tack "blue" masking tape to hold the underframe to this one).

Ken Montero

----- Original Message -----
From: "joe binish" <binish6@q.com>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 9:58:49 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits






RJ,
see www.bobsworkbench.com for a holder I built following an article in RMC,
also Bob Sterner's approach to the same idea.
joe binish
----- Original Message -----
From: "radiodial868" < radiodial@... >
To: < STMFC@... >
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 6:27 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits

While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with
removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and
Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

StephenK
 

I have had luck with a regular wire coathanger for box type cars. Hold the hook, and pull the center of the hanger (the part that would be cardboard if it was for pants) out until you have a long loop. Then bend the last 4-5 inches of the loop at a right angle. This part fits into the carbody. You can adjust the tension easily with this method.

Steve Kay

--- In STMFC@..., "Joe Bower" <jnbower1@...> wrote:

RJD.



I use a wire coat hanger, the type that has the horizontal paper tube.



Bend the Hook into a closed loop for the handle.



Pull the two wire ends out of the tube, and cut off about 5" of the wire.
File the ends to a smooth, rounded tip and slightly tapered so the tips can
slip into the Truck screw holes in the bolsters. Bend these arms to form a
"U" pointing up away from the handle, and equal to the span between the
bolsters on the car to be painted. (Make several "Holders", bent to fit the
spans of different length models)



If the legs of the "U" are separated by slightly more, or less than bolster
centers, the spring force should hold the models satisfactorily.



J. Bower.







_____

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
radiodial868
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 7:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits





While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with
removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and
Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: AAR 70 ton truck help

Richard Hendrickson
 

On May 25, 2013, at 7:52 PM, Brian Carlson <prrk41361@...> wrote:

I need to find a pair of AAR 70 ton trucks with Spring Planks for use under
a READING 70 ton Bethlehem gondola, Tangent HO model. I'm drawing a blank on
models of 70 ton trucks with spring planks. Help please.

Brian, the 70 trucks that Intermountain uses on their two bay covered hoppers have spring planks. They actually represent Barber S-2 spring plank trucks, as they have the triangular snubber pockets molded into the ends of the bolsters, but that's a subtle detail (and could be carved out with a tiny chisel blade, if it bothers you). The last time I looked, IM didn't show these trucks in their on-line catalog as being available separately, but you might give them a call.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Early Refrigerator Car With Vents?

Bob Chaparro <thecitrusbelt@...>
 

From Keith Jordan -

Bob and Others,

A picture of a similar car can be found in the SFRHM&S book, "Refrigerator Cars – Ice Bunker Cars 1884-1979," on page 53. The photo is of the Argentine (Kansas) Yard after the flood of 1903. The caption I wrote stated, "...is a ventilator car modified with strange-appearing ventilators. This type of ventilation was only hinted at in the records; the car dates from the mid-1890s. Cars modified in this fashion were in ventilator-only service."

I'm afraid that in the twenty-odd years since the book was written, no additional information has come to light that I'm aware of, though the photo you found I had not seen before.

Keith Jordan

--- In STMFC@..., "Bob Chaparro" <thecitrusbelt@...> wrote:

This image link is from the USC Digital Library and shows a view of the Santa Fe Railroad yard in San Bernardino, CA, in 1888.

http://digitallibrary.usc.edu/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15799coll65/id/18780/rec/7

If you blow up the photo using the slider above it you'll see a refrigerator car at the lower right corner. Notice what appear to be two large vents on the end of the car. Is anyone familiar with this car design?

Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

<None of us have ever had weights come loose in cars, have we? :)>

I use BADA Tape-A-Weight #7026 self-sticking tire weights to add weight to
freight cars. They come 48 strips to a box, 12 quarter ounce lead weights
per strip, and they're similar to A-Line quarter ounce weights but with
better self-sticking tape and less expensive. I've never had one come loose.
Typical 40 ft. 6 in. resin boxcars take 1.5 oz. (strip of 6 weights) to
bring them close to the NMRA recommendation. That's 12 lb of weights, which
will take care of about 96 resin boxcars or reefers. They're too thick for
other car types. For stock cars, I use sixteenth inch sheet lead cut to
match the floor size, glued to the floor inside the car, and painted it so
it doesn't show.

Nelson Moyer


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Craig Zeni
 

On May 25, 2013, at 10:52 PM, STMFC@... wrote:

2a. Airbrushing Resin Kits
Posted by: "radiodial868" radiodial@... radiodial868
Date: Sat May 25, 2013 4:27 pm ((PDT))

While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
I usually build my resin box cars with the floor removable and secured to the body with blocks of 1/4" styrene and some 0-80 screws. None of us have ever had weights come loose in cars, have we? :)

The ones where I cannot do that, I use old shop truck sideframes on a lazy susan. I have a box of food preparation disposable gloves and wear one on my left hand and start by painting the underframe of the model as well as the 'downward facing' parts of the car body itself - the bottom of door ribs, end ribs, ladders, etc etc. That being finished, I put the model on my lazy susan and finish painting the thing. YMMV of course.

Craig Zeni
Cary NC


Re: D&RGW 10"4" IH, 12 Panel Boxcar

Roland Levin
 

Hi Dennis



I have built both the car with the 15’ door and the car with 6’ doors. I
have a drawing of the brake system for the 12 panel box cars. I have never
seen any information that there were any differences between the brake
system for the two versions.



I have posted the drawing to files section. It’s called
<http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/HP-hUTnPwJVUhRRb_95K2Xp5BZu56Q31cs0RXKEpuhwM3h
JqDnJPD-_k-fhp_rNBhRFSZJIeGr8AQII4XSJS-gvebtXR0sdLYA8/Brake%20system%20DRGW%
2012%20panel%20box%20car.TIF> Brake system DRGW 12 panel box car.TIF. I hope
this helps you.



Roland Levin

Stockholm, Sweden

http://hem.bredband.net/drgw/

http://www.usms.se





Från: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] För Dennis
Skickat: den 25 maj 2013 23:34
Till: STMFC@...
Ämne: [STMFC] D&RGW 10"4" IH, 12 Panel Boxcar





I am starting Sunshine #96.9 - a model of the D&RGW 12 panel boxcar with the
15' doors built by the Pressed Steel Car Co. in 1939. Number series
65100-199.

I am looking for more detail of the underbody (always a challenge - and this
car has one of the unique designs) because the the included instructions
show two pictures with different locations for the components, are not clear
on which picture is for which car, and generally do not give a good sense of
how the the brake equipment was installed on this car.

I found pictures of the exterior and interior of the car in the 1940 Car
Cyc., but no other references in my search at the Pacific Railroad Museum in
San Dimas (cheap plug for them).

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Have a great Memorial Weekend
and God Bless all our veterans.

Thanks,

Dennis Korn





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


AAR 70 ton truck help

Brian Carlson
 

I need to find a pair of AAR 70 ton trucks with Spring Planks for use under
a READING 70 ton Bethlehem gondola, Tangent HO model. I'm drawing a blank on
models of 70 ton trucks with spring planks. Help please.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

william darnaby
 

I paint the complete assembled model by painting the underbody, ends and roof
while holding the sides with my fingers.  Then I pick up a large electrical
alligator clip, about an inch plus long, and use it grab the centersill near the
car center for balance.  This is stable enough to hold the car for the remainder
of the painting process.  Some of the finer centersill castings tend to deflect
under the pressure of the jaws but this can be mitigated by placing a styrene
spacer between the cast channels to keep them from collapsing together.

Hope this helps,
Bill Darnaby




________________________________
From: radiodial868 <radiodial@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sat, May 25, 2013 6:33:35 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits

While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with
removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and Sunshine
models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Joseph
 

RJ,
see www.bobsworkbench.com for a holder I built following an article in RMC, also Bob Sterner's approach to the same idea.
joe binish

----- Original Message -----
From: "radiodial868" <radiodial@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 6:27 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits


While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Joe Bower <jnbower1@...>
 

RJD.



I use a wire coat hanger, the type that has the horizontal paper tube.



Bend the Hook into a closed loop for the handle.



Pull the two wire ends out of the tube, and cut off about 5" of the wire.
File the ends to a smooth, rounded tip and slightly tapered so the tips can
slip into the Truck screw holes in the bolsters. Bend these arms to form a
"U" pointing up away from the handle, and equal to the span between the
bolsters on the car to be painted. (Make several "Holders", bent to fit the
spans of different length models)



If the legs of the "U" are separated by slightly more, or less than bolster
centers, the spring force should hold the models satisfactorily.



J. Bower.







_____

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
radiodial868
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 7:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits





While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with
removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and
Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Bill Welch wrote:
A few years ago I used Gray and Yellow Scalecoat paints custom mixed for Des Planes Hobbies to match the Clinchfield to paint two F5's and two GP7's and carefully dispensed what I needed each time, thinning it as I went. I barely finished painting the four models and the required slight touch-ups before the main bottles became unusable. Very frustrating. Ended up using a Tamiya yellow to do some stand off details I forgot to paint.
Having had the same experience a few times with Scalecoat, I quit using it years ago. The newer paints such as Tru-Color are quite nice and give a beautiful finish. I find myself using them more and more.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Brian Carlson wrote:
I generally paint in stages underframe first, then put the model on "shop Trucks" and paint the sitting on them in the booth. I don't have one but a lazy-susan is useful too.
I do the same. All my old roller bearing trucks live in the spray booth. I also use old kit box tops or bottoms for supporting pieces being painted.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


nyc 706970 gondola - modelling question

Robert kirkham
 

So I've had a little off-line help with this project and can now correct my earlier comments about the drop end doors: these cars did have drop end doors.

Now I'm preparing some drawings for a model and wonder about a dimension. The inside length is 50' on this car. I don't have a dimension for the thickness of the drop doors. I could simply borrow a dimension from the P2K model, but wondering if there is a better way of estimating the dimension.

I'm going to have a look at the some Cyc drawings from the era and see what I can find, but thought I'd ask here too.

Rob Kirkham


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Bill Welch
 

I prefer painting the under frame and body of house cars separately and I use the cardboard tube from rolls of toilet paper with a loop of masking tape on both sides to keep it secured, which is easy because the weights are on the u/f. With open top and tank cars I use the green florist wire that comes with the F&C kits wrapped around the truck screws and then hang the model to dry.

I use Badger's Modelflex paint so if I spray the hand holding the cardboard tube or the wire, which I usually do, I just wash it off.

Speaking of paint, I used Accuflex paint from the get-go and was interested to hear Greg's history lesson on what happened to it. I am very happy with Modelflex although I have also used Polyscale and intend to go to my LHS and buy the colors I like from that line this week.

A few years ago I used Gray and Yellow Scalecoat paints custom mixed for Des Planes Hobbies to match the Clinchfield to paint two F5's and two GP7's and carefully dispensed what I needed each time, thinning it as I went. I barely finished painting the four models and the required slight touch-ups before the main bottles became unusable. Very frustrating. Ended up using a Tamiya yellow to do some stand off details I forgot to paint.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "radiodial868" <radiodial@...> wrote:

While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA


Re: L&NE and CNJ 50 ton hoppers -- appropriate models?

Brian Carlson
 

Ed: I don't know if you have Kadee's ear but I for one would love to see
them produce the closely spaced Z section end. I'd buy lots of the B&O cars,
and the P&S.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY




While the LNE had some cars with the same sides, they used a different
end arrangement than the Kadee model. It would require a new pair of
ends having closely-spaced Z-section end posts. With the same new pair
of ends, the Kadee model would be also accurate for several thousand
B&O N-41/N-44 cars with conventional AAR-type underframes in addition
to one series for P&S.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Bruce Smith
 

RJ,

Lotsa of different approaches can be used. Some flat kits I paint before assembly. This is especially useful as it allows good color separattion if needed and also allows you to decal both sides at the same time. Other approaches are to put a set of truck without wheels on and use those to hold the model right side up. Alternatively, you can use wood skewers stuck in a block of florist foam. To do the under bodies I usually just hold the car in one hand.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
________________________________________
From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...] on behalf of radiodial868 [radiodial@...]
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 6:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits

While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: automotive lacquer (was ...Testors...)

Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam@...>
 

Another problem, not sure we could spray plastic. Floquil could be
misted on styrene without any problems, I'm not sure we could do this
with automotive lacquer!

You can indeed, and in much the same way as you used to be able to spray the old "hot" Floquil. Mist it on for the first couple of coats until you have an even coat over everything; subsequent coats can be rather wetter but still not quite wet if you get my drift.

Remember that there are two types of lacquers - the traditional cellulose lacquers and more modern acrylic lacquers (which in themselves are rather old hat these days, as much car finishing is done with polyurethane type paints which hold up rather better to weather and road grime). The older cellulose lacquers are fun to play with, and can produce a range of finishes but the solvent is toxic and probably best avoided in most home settings. It is still used in finishing musical instruments, and furniture - usually as a clear or slightly tinted coat, but can be sourced in solid colours though off the shelf range tends to be limited

Aidrian


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

Some of us have made stands that attach with screws to the kingspins of the
car to be painted. This requires painting as a two step process. I paint the
underframe first, let it dry, attach the car to the stand, then paint the
rest of the car. I model the CB&Q, and most of my resin kits are house cars,
which are painted mineral read on all surfaces including trucks (which I
paint separately on a multi-truck jig). The stand stabilizes and elevates
the car, and when placed on a lazy Susan, can be rotated to access the
sides, ends, and roof of the car. I built my stand out of quarter inch
square styrene strips.



Nelson Moyer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
radiodial868
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 6:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits





While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with
removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and
Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA


Re: Airbrushing Resin Kits

Brian Carlson
 

I generally paint in stages underframe first, then put the model on "shop
Trucks" and paint the sitting on them in the booth. I don't have on but a
lazy-susan is useful too.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
radiodial868
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 7:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Airbrushing Resin Kits





While the spring loaded "expander" handle works fine for car bodies with
removable shells, what does one use to hold assembled Westerfield and
Sunshine models for spray-painting? Any tips?
Thx,
RJ Dial
Pleasanton, CA

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