Date   

Re: More Rapido "steam era" stuff...

Brian Carlson
 

Jason: When did the 12" CN lettering come into service on the gon?



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Jason Shron
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 7:01 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] More Rapido "steam era" stuff...





Hi guys,

I don't know if Bill has mentioned this yet, but we've officially announced
our new Canuck gon. It was built from 1943 through the 1950s.

Full info is in our newsletter:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/rapidonewscurrent.html

and the web page is here:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/gon.html

We're calling it the "Ultimate Canadian Gon" until we bring it out in a
bunch of fake US schemes, at which point it will likely be the "Ultimate Not
Remotely Accurate Gon" or something similar.

The newsletter also contains an update on the "where the heck is the" 1937
GARX Meat Reefer. Actually (shock and horror) the supposedly final sample is
en route to Bill right now.

Thanks,

Jason


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

John Degnan <Scaler164@...>
 

I have actually just tnoight determined that I need matching (or similar) trucks with a TWO leaf spring arrangement (on the first) and THREE leaf spring arrangement (on the other)... 'cause as it turns out, the prototype, at one time, as seen in two of the photos I have of it, had trucks with both arrangements. I have no idea if these cabs came from the Reading (to the S&A) in this condition, but it would seem so.

To the best of my knowoedge, neither of these two cab's original Reading road numbers are known... but this little 2-leaf spring/3-leaf spring oddity might help to identify at least one of them. Anyone know of a site with lots of Reading caboose photos?


John Degnan
Scaler164@comcast.net
Scaler187@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: John
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:00 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos


JD,

I did have a car equipped with the Tichy caboose trucks, but immediately replaced them with the new Kadee trucks and Reboxx whellesets. The Tichy trucks are 1970s tech, unlike the rest of their line which is top-of-the-line.

John Golden
O'Fallon, IL

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "John Degnan" <Scaler164@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any models equipped with the Tichy # 3051 Caboose Truck?
>
> https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/trucks/p/3051/Default.aspx
>
> The photo on the Tichy site leave a LOT to be desired, so I'd like to see some photos of some models with this truck clearly showing.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> John Degnan
> Scaler164@...
> Scaler187@...
>
>
>
>




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Michael Watnoski
 

Hi Keith,

I second Chuck's technique and would add that my favorite filling material is slow setting epoxy. I mix up the epoxy and spread a minimal amount on the area or divot. I leave the excess that was mixed on a surface that I can check occasionally. When it is a thick paste, I remove any excess from the model with a sharp #17 blade or a single edged razor. This leaves very little to be sanded when set completely.

HTH

Michael

On 5/30/2013 8:26 PM, Charles Happel wrote:
My favorite technique is to wet sand with either 400 or 600 waterproof aluminum oxide paper, as the water serves to lubricate and eliminate scratches.

Chuck Happel


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

A local home improvement center carries 1000 and 1500 sandpaper in addition
to 400 and 600. I use the finer grades for polishing. I've found I can
polish clear acrylic lenses by rubbing the face of the lens on a dry piece
of printer paper after sanding with 1500 sandpaper.



Nelson Moyer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Charles Happel
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 7:26 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials





My favorite technique is to wet sand with either 400 or 600 waterproof
aluminum oxide paper, as the water serves to lubricate and eliminate
scratches.

Chuck Happel

"The most persistent threat to freedom, to the rights of Americans, is
fear."

- George Meany (1894-1980)

--- On Thu, 5/30/13, hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@yahoo.com
<mailto:hvyweight41%40yahoo.com> > wrote:

From: hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@yahoo.com <mailto:hvyweight41%40yahoo.com> >
Subject: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, May 30, 2013, 6:41 PM



Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits
and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was
wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials
(I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs
and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a
rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or
burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish
to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,

Keith Kempster

Jacksonville, FL


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

golden1014
 

JD,

I did have a car equipped with the Tichy caboose trucks, but immediately replaced them with the new Kadee trucks and Reboxx whellesets. The Tichy trucks are 1970s tech, unlike the rest of their line which is top-of-the-line.

John Golden
O'Fallon, IL

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "John Degnan" <Scaler164@...> wrote:

Does anyone have any models equipped with the Tichy # 3051 Caboose Truck?

https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/trucks/p/3051/Default.aspx

The photo on the Tichy site leave a LOT to be desired, so I'd like to see some photos of some models with this truck clearly showing.

Thanks.


John Degnan
Scaler164@...
Scaler187@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Greg Martin
 

Keith,

I think you'll need a good supply of Wet and Dry sandpaper, don't stop at
your local hobby shop unless they carry sizes down to 1200 grit which is
generally found in single sheet or packages at Auto Parts Dealers. I keep a
supply handy even though I don't use it that often I have been known to.
Smooth flat surfaces demand it. Use water or oil to aid in the sanding, but
oil cuts harder than water, choose your poison. Work in a circular motion
as broadly as you can with light pressure.

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 5/30/2013 4:41:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
hvyweight41@yahoo.com writes:




Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits
and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I
was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other
materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs
and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a
rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing
Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be
consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL


Re: Tankcar Challenge

Douglas Harding
 

Richard, thanks. I didn't think Poultry Transit Co. owned tank cars, but did
not know for sure.



Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Bruce Smith
 

Keith,

Bare metal foil on freight cars? Is this for patch panels? Basic sanding with decreasing grits is usually the way to handle any irregularities caused in the course of modeling. "polishing" is a term that seems a bit extreme for what you seem to be implying that you will do. If this isn't a helpful answer it might be useful to provide more details on what you are planning to do.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
________________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [STMFC@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of hvyweight41 [hvyweight41@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 6:41 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Bill Welch
 

I like using 600 and then 1000. "Ace" has 1500 and I have found 1000 and 2000 at Auto finishing stores.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "hvyweight41" <hvyweight41@...> wrote:

Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL


Re: L&NE and CNJ 50 ton hoppers -- appropriate models?

Brian LaManna
 

Ed and list,
Thank you very much for the thorough response! I realized that the answers were probably already in the article in RRPCYC Vol 25, but I'm still learning all the terminology and minutiae of classic freight cars and sometimes I get lost in the details.
I'm pleased to hear that the Kadee model IS good for the CRP/CNJ hoppers and I'll pick some up as they become available. Regarding the LNE car, I'm not sure if Kadee would be interested in tooling up a new end for a car that was found on three roads, but I think I'll fire them off an email anyway and see.
Again, I appreciate all the amazing amount of research and knowledge the members of this list bring to the party and I'm grateful to take it all in.
Brian LaManna/Moncton, NB
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
From: prrk41361@yahoo.com
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 20:53:49 -0400
Subject: RE: [STMFC] L&NE and CNJ 50 ton hoppers -- appropriate models?


























Ed: I don't know if you have Kadee's ear but I for one would love to see

them produce the closely spaced Z section end. I'd buy lots of the B&O cars,

and the P&S.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.



Cheektowaga, NY



While the LNE had some cars with the same sides, they used a different

end arrangement than the Kadee model. It would require a new pair of

ends having closely-spaced Z-section end posts. With the same new pair

of ends, the Kadee model would be also accurate for several thousand

B&O N-41/N-44 cars with conventional AAR-type underframes in addition

to one series for P&S.

Regards,

Ed Hawkins























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Tankcar Challange

proto48er
 

Just a couple more comments - I think the dome pressure vents on the Type 19 tank cars as-built in 1919 and 1920 were on top of the dome, on the "B" side of the dome lid. Also, the cars had only one ladder and platform to the dome, and it was on the side of the car that you face when the "B" end is to your right. The museum car conforms with this, but the vents appear to be of a newer design.

The Type 19 underframe differed from the Type 17 underframe in that the end sills were "tapered" downward on the Type 17 underframes, but were straight 9" channels on the Type 19 cars. The Type 19 underframe had a wood plank butting up to the back of the end sill and level with the top of the end sill. The Type 19 underframe was almost exactly like the Type 21 underframe, except that the wood walkway sat on top of the 9" channel end sills on the Type 21, not abutted to the back of them! More than you wanted to know!

Lot 8712 is the first mention of the "Type 19" tank car in the lot number book.

As for the number of cars ordered from 12/1918 to 8/1919, there were in lots from Lot 8655 to Lot 8712 (57 lots). For 12/1919 to 8/1920, there were cars built in lots from Lot 8807 to Lot 9063 (256 lots). Thus there was a good deal more business for AC&F in the later period than there was in the 12/1918 to 8/1919 period, so it is conceivable that the North American Car Co. cars could have started being built immediately upon being ordered.

Ed Hawkins knows more about this, I'll bet!

A.T. Kott

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "proto48er" <atkott@...> wrote:

Guys -

I think this tank car has the "AC&F Type 19" underframe. The tank style is similar to the tanks built in 1919 and 1920 by AC&F. The 8,000 gallon capacity ARA Type III tank built by AC&F during these two years had the almost exact configuration of the tank of the preserved car.

By comparison to a known tank car lot of 300 cars ordered on 12/17/19 that were built by AC&F in 1920 (one car in builder's photo about 45 cars into the order blt 7/1920), it probably took AC&F a couple of months to build the car in question.

Using the built date of 7/1920 on the preserved car, examination of the AC&F Order Book strongly suggests the following candidates (all 8,000 gallon tank cars) for the original owner of the car:

- Lot 8657 (30) White Eagle Petroleum Co. tank cars ordered 12/4/18

- Lot 8661 (3) Smethport Extract Co. 50-T 8,000 gal tank cars ordered 1/19/1919

- Lot 8670 (15) Magnolia Petroleum 40-T ? gallon tank cars ordered 4/16/1919

- Lot 8678 (10) Akin Gasoline Co. 40-T 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 5/9/1919

- Lot 8684 (2) Kendall Refining Co. 40-T 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 6/5/1919

- Lot 8708 (2) Kendall Refining Co. 40-T 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 7/25/1919

- Lot 8712 (50) North American Car Co. 40-T "Type 19" 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 7/30/1919

Since Doug has indicated that the history of one of the predecessor companies of PTCX traced back to North American Car, I would vote for the car being from Lot 8712. However, based on the order date and the built date on the car, the car at the museum must have been (a) the first car in the series and (b) business at AC&F must have been VERY slow in 1919! ALSO - Lot 8712 is the first mention of a "Type 19" tank car in the listing!

Just my 2 cents on the subject!

A.T. Kott


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Charles Happel
 

My favorite technique is to wet sand with either 400 or 600 waterproof aluminum oxide paper, as the water serves to lubricate and eliminate scratches.

Chuck Happel



"The most persistent threat to freedom, to the rights of Americans, is fear."

- George Meany (1894-1980)

--- On Thu, 5/30/13, hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@yahoo.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, May 30, 2013, 6:41 PM
















 









Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?



Thanks,

Keith Kempster

Jacksonville, FL



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Tankcar Challange

proto48er
 

Guys -

I think this tank car has the "AC&F Type 19" underframe. The tank style is similar to the tanks built in 1919 and 1920 by AC&F. The 8,000 gallon capacity ARA Type III tank built by AC&F during these two years had the almost exact configuration of the tank of the preserved car.

By comparison to a known tank car lot of 300 cars ordered on 12/17/19 that were built by AC&F in 1920 (one car in builder's photo about 45 cars into the order blt 7/1920), it probably took AC&F a couple of months to build the car in question.

Using the built date of 7/1920 on the preserved car, examination of the AC&F Order Book strongly suggests the following candidates (all 8,000 gallon tank cars) for the original owner of the car:

- Lot 8657 (30) White Eagle Petroleum Co. tank cars ordered 12/4/18

- Lot 8661 (3) Smethport Extract Co. 50-T 8,000 gal tank cars ordered 1/19/1919

- Lot 8670 (15) Magnolia Petroleum 40-T ? gallon tank cars ordered 4/16/1919

- Lot 8678 (10) Akin Gasoline Co. 40-T 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 5/9/1919

- Lot 8684 (2) Kendall Refining Co. 40-T 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 6/5/1919

- Lot 8708 (2) Kendall Refining Co. 40-T 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 7/25/1919

- Lot 8712 (50) North American Car Co. 40-T "Type 19" 8,000 gallon tank cars ordered 7/30/1919

Since Doug has indicated that the history of one of the predecessor companies of PTCX traced back to North American Car, I would vote for the car being from Lot 8712. However, based on the order date and the built date on the car, the car at the museum must have been (a) the first car in the series and (b) business at AC&F must have been VERY slow in 1919! ALSO - Lot 8712 is the first mention of a "Type 19" tank car in the listing!

Just my 2 cents on the subject!

A.T. Kott

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "soolinehistory" <destorzek@...> wrote:

OK, enough aeroplanes. I've got a freightcar question.

On the Railway Preservation News discussion board there is a question as to the origins of a tankcar presently at the Hoosier Valley Railroad Museum in North Judson, Indiana. The car was last used by the Walter Haffner Company, who dealt in animal by-products... yuck! Anyway, the museum would like to restore/repaint the car for an earlier era, and in general would like to nail down its history. One thought they had is since the car rides on Vulcan trucks with NYC cast in the sideframes, that the car is ex-NYC, but that really doesn't seem likely (it's possible) and it's not unusual for used trucks to make their way into service in the lease fleets.

Here's what is known so far:

AAR III, Built by AC&F 7/1919, last tested by Keith Tank Line at Longview TX 4/30/54. The last reporting marks were WCHX 1114, previous mark was PTCX 1103.

Photos are in the discussion at RyPN.org, I don't think you need to be registered to view the discusston at this link:

http://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35047

If you read through the thread, you'll see I make quite the case for collaborating with the modeling fraternity, since modelers seem to do considerably more in depth research than the railway meseums do, simply because the museum folks are pre-occupied with just preserving and maintaining the stuff. Let's show them what we can do. I'm sure any information we can add, even general histories of the car design or fleets it was in would be appreciated.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

Keith, You will be doing a lot of sanding and filing. When you feel you have the right amount of detail removed, apply putty to the divots in the body casting; then sand them smooth. This is usually done with very fine sand paper to finish the work area. When you are satisfied with the results, try rubbing with 0000 steel wool to polish the plastic or resin. Wash all the parts before you reassemble it. Fred FreitasBennington, VT

--- On Thu, 5/30/13, hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@yahoo.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, May 30, 2013, 7:41 PM
















 









Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?



Thanks,

Keith Kempster

Jacksonville, FL



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Polishing Styrene and other model materials

hvyweight41
 

Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

John Degnan <Scaler164@...>
 

Richard,

I actually did see mention of your article and actually looked at it... but had just forgotten about it. Will look again. Thanks for the reminder.


John Degnan
Scaler164@comcast.net
Scaler187@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Hendrickson
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 06:52 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos


John, you need to pay closer attention to the lest. My article on HO scale trucks, which has been mentioned here several times, is on the internet at

<https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz_ctrHrDz4wMkpBYUw1RjhmRkE/edit?pli=1>

It includes very good photos of all the Tichy caboose trucks (and many other HO scale freight car trucks as well).

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Tankcar Challenge

Richard Hendrickson
 

On May 30, 2013, at 1:49 PM, Douglas Harding <doug.harding@iowacentralrr.org> wrote:

The reporting marks PCTX were assigned to the Poultry Transit Co.
1/1945-4/1947, then Poultry Transit Inc. 1/1950

WCHX was assigned to WC Haffner in 1/1945, then to Walter Haffner Co.
4/1947-7-1005

As the car was last used for animal by-products, it is quite possible it was
in similar service for earlier owner Poultry Transit Co.

Here is an interesting history of the Poultry Transit Co.
http://www.hoosiervalley.org/history/turkeys-and-trains/

It indicates that Poultry Transit Co. was formed in 1944 as a spin off by
North American Car Co. who had acquired Live Poultry Transit Co. in 1930.
North American's acquired North Judson (Ind) car repair shops in 1927, which
were located along the NYC, (ie the possible source of the trucks?). North
Judson apparently repaired tank cars, reefers and poultry cars.

To go further back: Live Poultry Transportation Co. predecessor to Live
Poultry Transit Co., owned approximately 700 cars, which were acquired by
International Equipment Co. and leased back to the newly formed Live Poultry
Transit Co. in 1913.
That's all very interesting, Doug, but I didn't mention the Poultry Transit Co. in my earlier e-mail because they never owned any tank cars. Their cars were all live chicken cars and both the cars and the reporting marks were gone from the ORERs by 10/50 because the cars had been retired. So they obviously weren't the owners of the tank car in question.

Richard Hendrickson


More Rapido "steam era" stuff...

Jason Shron
 

Hi guys,

I don't know if Bill has mentioned this yet, but we've officially announced our new Canuck gon. It was built from 1943 through the 1950s.

Full info is in our newsletter:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/rapidonewscurrent.html

and the web page is here:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/gon.html

We're calling it the "Ultimate Canadian Gon" until we bring it out in a bunch of fake US schemes, at which point it will likely be the "Ultimate Not Remotely Accurate Gon" or something similar.

The newsletter also contains an update on the "where the heck is the" 1937 GARX Meat Reefer. Actually (shock and horror) the supposedly final sample is en route to Bill right now.

Thanks,

Jason


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

Richard Hendrickson
 

On May 30, 2013, at 2:42 PM, John Degnan <Scaler164@comcast.net> wrote:

Does anyone have any models equipped with the Tichy # 3051 Caboose Truck?

https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/trucks/p/3051/Default.aspx

The photo on the Tichy site leave a LOT to be desired, so I'd like to see some photos of some models with this truck clearly showing.
John, you need to pay closer attention to the lest. My article on HO scale trucks, which has been mentioned here several times, is on the internet at

<https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz_ctrHrDz4wMkpBYUw1RjhmRkE/edit?pli=1>

It includes very good photos of all the Tichy caboose trucks (and many other HO scale freight car trucks as well).

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Tankcar Challange

Tony Thompson
 

Small point: the car is an ARA III spec, NOT an AAR car. The ARA handled tank car specs until 1927, when it went over to the ICC -- which is well before the formation of the AAR. Older cars were correctly stenciled with the identity of the spec under which they were built, in this case ARA III. There WAS no spec called AAR III.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history

76461 - 76480 of 192829