Date   

Re: F&C website

James Fellows
 

They are at the New England Proto Meet in Collinsville, CT.



Jim Fellows

----- Original Message -----


From: "Pierre Oliver" <pierre.oliver@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 3:40:26 PM
Subject: [STMFC] F&C website

 




Has anyone tried the F&C website today?
My browser and anti-virus software are blocking access. Seems they've
been hacked or infected.
And since Sharon's not answering the phone, could they be on their way
to another show?
Thanks

--
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


F&C website

Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Has anyone tried the F&C website today?
My browser and anti-virus software are blocking access. Seems they've been hacked or infected.
And since Sharon's not answering the phone, could they be on their way to another show?
Thanks

--
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com


Re: Tichy AB Brake Set-to scale?

Gene <bierglaeser@...>
 

Bill,
It is possible that all are the correct scale size.

H, J & K brakes came in a variety of sizes to suit the empty weight of the freight car (or, dare I say here, passenger car or tender). In the case of H and K brakes the cylinder diameter (actually the bore diameter) ranged from 6 inches to 16 inches in 2 inch increments.

H and K brakes were applied to freight cars; J to passenger cars.

I believe (I hate suppositions, even my own) that piston travel, and therefore cylinder length, was confined to a narrower range but can not find confirmation in any of my reference material just now.

H and K brake reservoirs could be 12"x33" used with 10" brake cylinders, 14"x33" used with 12" cylinders, 16"x33" used with 14" or 16"x42" used with 16".

In general, use the smaller K brakes on lighter freight cars and the larger on heavier freight cars. Again, it is light weight that determines cylinder size and, by extension, reservoir size. Disregard loads.

Gene Green

--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

The brake cylinder and reservoir of the Tichy AB Brake set have in particular have always looked small to me when compared to the old Cal Scale/Bowser and Detail Assoc./Grandt Line sets or the same components in the Accurail kits. Can anyone speak to which is more accurate in term of size or scale?

Bill Welch


Re: More Rapido "steam era" stuff...

John Riddell
 

Brian,

The 12-inch CN lettering was introduced in 1957.

John Riddell


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

michaelegross <michaelEGross@...>
 

Gentlemen:

In addition to the excellent wet sandpaper methods mentioned in earlier postings, I have also used toothpaste as a final polisher for plastic surfaces, as the paste contains microscopic grit. I apply it in a circular motion with the top of a flat pencil eraser, and the residue easily washes off with water. For a slightly larger grit, use baking soda and water.

Cheers!

Michael Gross
La Cañada, CA






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rapido CN/CP gondola

Marty McGuirk
 

Displayed at NE RPM meet in Collinsville Ct.


----------


Re: More Rapido "steam era" stuff...

Jason Shron
 

Note to self: don't post anything on STMFC list when Bill is away at an RPM meet....

:-)

The 12" lettering was used starting in 1957. Because it was a late repaint, it could be found on cars through the 1960s.

(Thankfully Bill has his cell phone with him.)

-Jason

--- In STMFC@..., "Brian Carlson" <prrk41361@...> wrote:

Jason: When did the 12" CN lettering come into service on the gon?



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Jason Shron
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 7:01 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] More Rapido "steam era" stuff...





Hi guys,

I don't know if Bill has mentioned this yet, but we've officially announced
our new Canuck gon. It was built from 1943 through the 1950s.

Full info is in our newsletter:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/rapidonewscurrent.html

and the web page is here:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/gon.html

We're calling it the "Ultimate Canadian Gon" until we bring it out in a
bunch of fake US schemes, at which point it will likely be the "Ultimate Not
Remotely Accurate Gon" or something similar.

The newsletter also contains an update on the "where the heck is the" 1937
GARX Meat Reefer. Actually (shock and horror) the supposedly final sample is
en route to Bill right now.

Thanks,

Jason





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Tichy AB Brake Set-to scale?

Bill Welch
 

The brake cylinder and reservoir of the Tichy AB Brake set have in particular have always looked small to me when compared to the old Cal Scale/Bowser and Detail Assoc./Grandt Line sets or the same components in the Accurail kits. Can anyone speak to which is more accurate in term of size or scale?

Bill Welch


Re: Tankcar Challange

soolinehistory <destorzek@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

Small point: the car is an ARA III spec, NOT an AAR car. The ARA handled tank car specs until 1927, when it went over to the ICC -- which is well before the formation of the AAR. Older cars were correctly stenciled with the identity of the spec under which they were built, in this case ARA III. There WAS no spec called AAR III.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
That's what I thought, but if you look at the close-up photo of the tank test data on the actual car, it's stenciled "AAR III". I don't think the museum has ever repainted the car, so the error must have been made by Keith Tank line, if indeed it's an error.

Dennis


Re: Tankcar Challange

soolinehistory <destorzek@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "proto48er" <atkott@...> wrote:

Since Doug has indicated that the history of one of the predecessor companies of PTCX traced back to North American Car, I would vote for the car being from Lot 8712. However, based on the order date and the built date on the car, the car at the museum must have been (a) the first car in the series and (b) business at AC&F must have been VERY slow in 1919! ALSO - Lot 8712 is the first mention of a "Type 19" tank car in the listing!

Just my 2 cents on the subject!

A.T. Kott
Considering that it was subsequently shown that Doug's comments were in error (the PTCX mark was at one time assigned to a North American subsidiary, but that company had no tankcars) is this still a valid assumption?

Comments?

Dennis


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

Joseph Lofland
 

John,

Contact me off list and I will send you some photos...I don't think the
photos of the Lackawanna caboose on my web site are good enough for your
purpose.

Joe Lofland
JJLModels.com

jjlofland@...


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Armand Premo <armprem2@...>wrote:

**


Didn't Tichy actually do an Arch Bar Caboose truck with leaf springs
too?Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: John Degnan
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

Richard,

I actually did see mention of your article and actually looked at it...
but had just forgotten about it. Will look again. Thanks for the reminder.


John Degnan
Scaler164@...
Scaler187@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Hendrickson
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 06:52 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

John, you need to pay closer attention to the lest. My article on HO scale
trucks, which has been mentioned here several times, is on the internet at

<https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz_ctrHrDz4wMkpBYUw1RjhmRkE/edit?pli=1>

It includes very good photos of all the Tichy caboose trucks (and many
other HO scale freight car trucks as well).

Richard Hendrickson








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

Armand Premo
 

Didn't Tichy actually do an Arch Bar Caboose truck with leaf springs too?Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: John Degnan
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos



Richard,

I actually did see mention of your article and actually looked at it... but had just forgotten about it. Will look again. Thanks for the reminder.

John Degnan
Scaler164@...
Scaler187@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Hendrickson
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 06:52 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

John, you need to pay closer attention to the lest. My article on HO scale trucks, which has been mentioned here several times, is on the internet at

<https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz_ctrHrDz4wMkpBYUw1RjhmRkE/edit?pli=1>

It includes very good photos of all the Tichy caboose trucks (and many other HO scale freight car trucks as well).

Richard Hendrickson


Re: More Rapido "steam era" stuff...

Brian Carlson
 

Jason: When did the 12" CN lettering come into service on the gon?



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Jason Shron
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 7:01 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] More Rapido "steam era" stuff...





Hi guys,

I don't know if Bill has mentioned this yet, but we've officially announced
our new Canuck gon. It was built from 1943 through the 1950s.

Full info is in our newsletter:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/rapidonewscurrent.html

and the web page is here:

http://www.rapidotrains.com/gon.html

We're calling it the "Ultimate Canadian Gon" until we bring it out in a
bunch of fake US schemes, at which point it will likely be the "Ultimate Not
Remotely Accurate Gon" or something similar.

The newsletter also contains an update on the "where the heck is the" 1937
GARX Meat Reefer. Actually (shock and horror) the supposedly final sample is
en route to Bill right now.

Thanks,

Jason


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

John Degnan <Scaler164@...>
 

I have actually just tnoight determined that I need matching (or similar) trucks with a TWO leaf spring arrangement (on the first) and THREE leaf spring arrangement (on the other)... 'cause as it turns out, the prototype, at one time, as seen in two of the photos I have of it, had trucks with both arrangements. I have no idea if these cabs came from the Reading (to the S&A) in this condition, but it would seem so.

To the best of my knowoedge, neither of these two cab's original Reading road numbers are known... but this little 2-leaf spring/3-leaf spring oddity might help to identify at least one of them. Anyone know of a site with lots of Reading caboose photos?


John Degnan
Scaler164@...
Scaler187@...

----- Original Message -----
From: John
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:00 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos


JD,

I did have a car equipped with the Tichy caboose trucks, but immediately replaced them with the new Kadee trucks and Reboxx whellesets. The Tichy trucks are 1970s tech, unlike the rest of their line which is top-of-the-line.

John Golden
O'Fallon, IL

--- In STMFC@..., "John Degnan" <Scaler164@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any models equipped with the Tichy # 3051 Caboose Truck?
>
> https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/trucks/p/3051/Default.aspx
>
> The photo on the Tichy site leave a LOT to be desired, so I'd like to see some photos of some models with this truck clearly showing.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> John Degnan
> Scaler164@...
> Scaler187@...
>
>
>
>




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Michael Watnoski
 

Hi Keith,

I second Chuck's technique and would add that my favorite filling material is slow setting epoxy. I mix up the epoxy and spread a minimal amount on the area or divot. I leave the excess that was mixed on a surface that I can check occasionally. When it is a thick paste, I remove any excess from the model with a sharp #17 blade or a single edged razor. This leaves very little to be sanded when set completely.

HTH

Michael

On 5/30/2013 8:26 PM, Charles Happel wrote:
My favorite technique is to wet sand with either 400 or 600 waterproof aluminum oxide paper, as the water serves to lubricate and eliminate scratches.

Chuck Happel


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

A local home improvement center carries 1000 and 1500 sandpaper in addition
to 400 and 600. I use the finer grades for polishing. I've found I can
polish clear acrylic lenses by rubbing the face of the lens on a dry piece
of printer paper after sanding with 1500 sandpaper.



Nelson Moyer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Charles Happel
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 7:26 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials





My favorite technique is to wet sand with either 400 or 600 waterproof
aluminum oxide paper, as the water serves to lubricate and eliminate
scratches.

Chuck Happel

"The most persistent threat to freedom, to the rights of Americans, is
fear."

- George Meany (1894-1980)

--- On Thu, 5/30/13, hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@...
<mailto:hvyweight41%40yahoo.com> > wrote:

From: hvyweight41 <hvyweight41@... <mailto:hvyweight41%40yahoo.com> >
Subject: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials
To: STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, May 30, 2013, 6:41 PM



Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits
and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was
wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials
(I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs
and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a
rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or
burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish
to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,

Keith Kempster

Jacksonville, FL


Re: Tichy Caboose Truck : Model Photos

golden1014
 

JD,

I did have a car equipped with the Tichy caboose trucks, but immediately replaced them with the new Kadee trucks and Reboxx whellesets. The Tichy trucks are 1970s tech, unlike the rest of their line which is top-of-the-line.

John Golden
O'Fallon, IL

--- In STMFC@..., "John Degnan" <Scaler164@...> wrote:

Does anyone have any models equipped with the Tichy # 3051 Caboose Truck?

https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/trucks/p/3051/Default.aspx

The photo on the Tichy site leave a LOT to be desired, so I'd like to see some photos of some models with this truck clearly showing.

Thanks.


John Degnan
Scaler164@...
Scaler187@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Greg Martin
 

Keith,

I think you'll need a good supply of Wet and Dry sandpaper, don't stop at
your local hobby shop unless they carry sizes down to 1200 grit which is
generally found in single sheet or packages at Auto Parts Dealers. I keep a
supply handy even though I don't use it that often I have been known to.
Smooth flat surfaces demand it. Use water or oil to aid in the sanding, but
oil cuts harder than water, choose your poison. Work in a circular motion
as broadly as you can with light pressure.

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 5/30/2013 4:41:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
hvyweight41@... writes:




Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits
and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I
was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other
materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs
and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a
rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing
Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be
consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL


Re: Tankcar Challenge

Douglas Harding
 

Richard, thanks. I didn't think Poultry Transit Co. owned tank cars, but did
not know for sure.



Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org


Re: Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Bruce Smith
 

Keith,

Bare metal foil on freight cars? Is this for patch panels? Basic sanding with decreasing grits is usually the way to handle any irregularities caused in the course of modeling. "polishing" is a term that seems a bit extreme for what you seem to be implying that you will do. If this isn't a helpful answer it might be useful to provide more details on what you are planning to do.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
________________________________________
From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...] on behalf of hvyweight41 [hvyweight41@...]
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 6:41 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Polishing Styrene and other model materials

Good evening all. I have read many articles and posts about modifying kits and kit bashing. I am getting ready to embark on my first projects and I was wondering if anyone has some tips for polishing styrene or other materials (I.e., resin) after details are removed? Things like molded on hand grabs and ladders need to be removed. Scraping off details will result in a rougher surface than the original molded part. I will be painting or burnishing Bare Metal foil onto car bodies and such. I would like the finish to be consistent across the surface. Any hints or tips?

Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL



------------------------------------

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