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Re: Coupler droop
s shaffer
"Question 2 : Do the problem cars have the old, metal clip-on lid for the gear box? If so, one POSSIBLE solution might be to ever-so-slightly bend the end of this metal lid upward to help raise the coupler head to the correct height, being very careful not to bend it too much as to pinch the shank ."
Yes John, as my good friend Fred Dabney showed me many years ago. After you bend up the end of the metal cover, then file the inside lip smooth as there is a burr from the stamping process that can a problem after it is bent up. I do not know why the Athearn bluebox kits were called "shake the box". I always could easy spend two hours putting one together not counting touchup paint and weathering. Guess I was just getting my dollars worth. What were they? About two and a half bucks? Steve Shaffer
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Barber Stabilized S-4-L Trucks
The Rock Island used this unusual truck under the 10 aluminum express
boxcars built in 1945, 20060-20069. They are essentially like the Bethlehem Kit Bits number 1213 including the Timken Roller Bearings. It also looks like the Barber S-5-L shown in Richard H's MRH truck article in figure 56, except with Timken Roller Bearings instead of the solid bearings shown there. What I am curious about is whether anyone can point out other roads using this truck? Thanks in advance. Steve Hile
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Re: Buy or Improve?
Armand Premo
Any reaction to the recent trend towards undecorated cars? Armand Premo
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: RUTLANDRS@aol.com To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 6:26 PM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Buy or Improve? Scott, "Can't justify the cost of resin", but has a lot of Kadee PS-1s, hmmmmmmm. Is this, I don't want to take the time or something else. You must be pretty lucky to get your cabooses as close as possible economically. We all have some "places" that we won't/can't go, but this list certainly helps us get closer. Chuck Hladik In a message dated 7/14/2013 2:23:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, shha ycock@comcast.net writes: Kieth, For me it depends... I really want the signature components of my trains- engines and cabooses- to be as prototypically correct as I can make them. Freight cars I don't worry about as much. I certainly want to get them as close as my wallet and skills will allow, but I cannot justify the cost of dozens of resin kits. I generally use Branchline, Red Caboose, Intermountain, and Accurail KITS for my rolling stock. With some aftermarket and scratchbuilt parts, a lot of these models can be made into close models of prototype cars. I do have a lot of Kadee PS-1s as I model the S.E. and these cars were used by a lot of the areas regional roads. An example is the SAL's turtleback boxcars. I will need several of them. I built a master to resin cast a more correct end that I can graft onto the Bowser PRR Round roof cars and get closer to the SAL cars. I know there are other differences, but For me the end is the most visible spotting feature of these cars. Replacing/ adding/ subtracting side sills and sill tabs is another simple fix on a lot of cars. Another consideration is decal availability. For me, this is still a builders hobby, and I prefer to build vs. buy if possible. Scott Haycock Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm ent ----- Original Message ----- All- Good evening. I have been a member of this group for but a little while compared to the time many of you have spent in the pursuit of STMFC knowledge. The studying of references and historical documents to discover how things were really done. All for the purpose of improving the models that are available to us. Yet, I get the impression that there are some among us who desire the perfect kit with all the correct details and decals. All one need do is assemble, paint and decal this kit to be happy. So, I ask you all, would you rather buy the perfect kit or improve a lesser kit through research and the acquisition of knowledge? Do we limit ourselves to the F&Cs and Westerfields of this world or do we take the Accurails and Bowsers and improve them, making them solid running rolling stock with as accurate details as we can? This may be blasphemy for some but I offer these thoughts as a 50 something who looks forward to many years of modeling pleasure. Thank you for your patience, Keith Kempster Jacksonville, FL [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Sinclair billboard tank cars
Richard Townsend
I recently acquired a single dome tank car kit by Thomas that is lettered for Sinclair with the large billboard lettering. It is a silver car with the lettering in black. But all the billboard lettered sinclair tank cars that I have seen were black with silver (aluminum) lettering. Were any prototype Sinclair cars lettered black over silver? I think Varney also decorated some tank cars that way in the old days.
Richard Townsend Lincoln City, Oregon [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Blue "Tank Car Connected" Sign
Tony Thompson
John Sykes wrote:
Richard & Tony:John, I will send you the photo. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@signaturepress.com Publishers of books on railroad history
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Re: Buy or Improve?
Scott H. Haycock
Chuck Hladik wrote:
"Can't justify the cost of resin", but has a lot of Kadee PS-1s, hmmmmmmm. Is this, I don't want to take the time or something else. You must be pretty lucky to get your cabooses as close as possible economically. We all have some "places" that we won't/can't go, but this list certainly helps us get closer. Chuck, I guess I wasn't clear. The PS-1s were under $30.00 each painted and lettered for roads that no one makes decals for. And these are quite accurate and very well detailed. Resin kits cost $50.00+ these days. Plus the time to build them. If I need say, 10 of a specific car, I can save a lot of money by upgrading a plastic kit. Multiply that by 100-150 cars, we're talking of savings in the thousands. My cabooses are resin because no plastic cars come close. Of the 4 types I need, 2 are available in resin. I will have to scratchbuild masters and resin cast the rest. I agree about the value of this list. In many cases, I have learned just what needs to be done to get a mass produced $15.00 kit closer to a prototype car. As someone who is also building a model railroad, I have to be picky about how I spend my limited hobby budget, and my time as well. I love resin kits, I just can't afford a lot of them! Scott Haycock Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm ent
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Re: Blue "Tank Car Connected" Sign
John
Richard & Tony:
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
What was the vintage of that photo? Reason I ask is I thought the specific messages were a later addition (e.g., post-OSHA as previously pointed out). Would you have seen this text prior to 1960? Just trying to find out (OSHA codified many already common practices, so could be either way). By the way, I thought that FRA was responsible for the RR safety rules & regulations, but I think a decision was made sometime not too long ago, that OSHA would be the responsible agency for off-RR property rules, e.g., industrial tracks and sidings. Does anybody know the history? -- John P.S. I have two pair of wheel chocks with attached signs, a derail, blue flag and a RR-quality switch lock in storage for my job. I sometimes play with 12" to-the-foot scale RR cars. Which reminds me, I have got to get re-qualified on the FEC.
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:
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Re: modeling open ice hatches
John
Tony:
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
When I do that, I use a brush on purpose to leave faint brush strokes on the plugs (using Floquil Concrete color paint). Reason being, the plugs were covered in canvas, and the brush strokes simulate that texture. I've been doing what you describe for 20 years and never thought to write it up (Doh! on my part). Good job. -- John
--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:
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Re: Sunshine Gifts or Mini-Kits
Rob Adams
Hi Greg;
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I'd be interested in the CB&Q F-11 if it is still available. Please let me know what you'd like to have for it. Thanks in advance. Kind regards, Rob Adams Wellman, IA
On 7/14/13 12:56 PM, tgregmrtn@aol.com wrote:
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Re: Buy or Improve?
Charles Hladik
Scott,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
"Can't justify the cost of resin", but has a lot of Kadee PS-1s, hmmmmmmm. Is this, I don't want to take the time or something else. You must be pretty lucky to get your cabooses as close as possible economically. We all have some "places" that we won't/can't go, but this list certainly helps us get closer. Chuck Hladik
In a message dated 7/14/2013 2:23:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, shha
ycock@comcast.net writes: Kieth, For me it depends... I really want the signature components of my trains- engines and cabooses- to be as prototypically correct as I can make them. Freight cars I don't worry about as much. I certainly want to get them as close as my wallet and skills will allow, but I cannot justify the cost of dozens of resin kits. I generally use Branchline, Red Caboose, Intermountain, and Accurail KITS for my rolling stock. With some aftermarket and scratchbuilt parts, a lot of these models can be made into close models of prototype cars. I do have a lot of Kadee PS-1s as I model the S.E. and these cars were used by a lot of the areas regional roads. An example is the SAL's turtleback boxcars. I will need several of them. I built a master to resin cast a more correct end that I can graft onto the Bowser PRR Round roof cars and get closer to the SAL cars. I know there are other differences, but For me the end is the most visible spotting feature of these cars. Replacing/ adding/ subtracting side sills and sill tabs is another simple fix on a lot of cars. Another consideration is decal availability. For me, this is still a builders hobby, and I prefer to build vs. buy if possible. Scott Haycock Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm ent ----- Original Message ----- All- Good evening. I have been a member of this group for but a little while compared to the time many of you have spent in the pursuit of STMFC knowledge. The studying of references and historical documents to discover how things were really done. All for the purpose of improving the models that are available to us. Yet, I get the impression that there are some among us who desire the perfect kit with all the correct details and decals. All one need do is assemble, paint and decal this kit to be happy. So, I ask you all, would you rather buy the perfect kit or improve a lesser kit through research and the acquisition of knowledge? Do we limit ourselves to the F&Cs and Westerfields of this world or do we take the Accurails and Bowsers and improve them, making them solid running rolling stock with as accurate details as we can? This may be blasphemy for some but I offer these thoughts as a 50 something who looks forward to many years of modeling pleasure. Thank you for your patience, Keith Kempster Jacksonville, FL [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Sunshine - Unavailable
Jim Hayes
I've flagged another dozen kits as "UNAVAILABLE 2013". My thanks to David
Sieber and Ron Merrick for the updates. I have fallen behind on flagging kits as UNAVAILABLE on the Flyers by RR page so always check the All Time List for availability. Jim Hayes Portland Oregon sunshinekits.com
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Re: Model kit hierarchy and heritage
Tom Madden
Gene Green wrote:
Gene, I know you asked this in jest, and I'm not Al, but it's worth discussing. No, they are certainly not exclusive, but they are different. An expert is a resource; a [good] modeler is an inspiration. If I want information on trucks, I'll look to Richard. If I want information on brakes, I'll look to you. But I may not look to either of you for inspiration to improve my modeling. Certainly there are exceptionally skilled modelers who also experts in one or more areas of the hobby. (Al W. and Jack B. come instantly to mind.) But possessing exceptional modeling skills doesn't automatically make you an expert. Interest, curiosity and a willingness to study a subject in depth, not modeling skills, are what make the Richard's, Tony's, Al's, Jack's, Dennis' and <your name here> so valuable and respected. Tom Madden
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Re: Sunshine Gifts or Mini-Kits
Gene Semon <mopac1@...>
Thanks for the replies to my question on these items.
Gene Semon
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Re: Industry Magazines of the 1950s?
On Jul 13, 2013, at 8:25 AM, Tim O'Connor wrote:
Railway Gazette seems to have been folio-sized. -- "Not only is it not right, it's not even wrong!" From Wolfgang Pauli, perpetrator of the Pauli Exclusion Principle
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modeling open ice hatches
Tony Thompson
I have posted a discussion of ways to model open ice hatches on refrigerator cars, for example for ventilation service, to my blog, and showed photos of several models prepared in different ways. If you're interested, it is at this link:
http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2013/07/modeling-open-ice-hatches-on.html Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@signaturepress.com Publishers of books on railroad history
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Re: Buy or Improve?
Scott H. Haycock
Kieth,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
For me it depends... I really want the signature components of my trains- engines and cabooses- to be as prototypically correct as I can make them. Freight cars I don't worry about as much. I certainly want to get them as close as my wallet and skills will allow, but I cannot justify the cost of dozens of resin kits. I generally use Branchline, Red Caboose, Intermountain, and Accurail KITS for my rolling stock. With some aftermarket and scratchbuilt parts, a lot of these models can be made into close models of prototype cars. I do have a lot of Kadee PS-1s as I model the S.E. and these cars were used by a lot of the areas regional roads. An example is the SAL's turtleback boxcars. I will need several of them. I built a master to resin cast a more correct end that I can graft onto the Bowser PRR Round roof cars and get closer to the SAL cars. I know there are other differences, but For me the end is the most visible spotting feature of these cars. Replacing/ adding/ subtracting side sills and sill tabs is another simple fix on a lot of cars. Another consideration is decal availability. For me, this is still a builders hobby, and I prefer to build vs. buy if possible. Scott Haycock Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm ent
----- Original Message -----
All- Good evening. I have been a member of this group for but a little while compared to the time many of you have spent in the pursuit of STMFC knowledge. The studying of references and historical documents to discover how things were really done. All for the purpose of improving the models that are available to us. Yet, I get the impression that there are some among us who desire the perfect kit with all the correct details and decals. All one need do is assemble, paint and decal this kit to be happy. So, I ask you all, would you rather buy the perfect kit or improve a lesser kit through research and the acquisition of knowledge? Do we limit ourselves to the F&Cs and Westerfields of this world or do we take the Accurails and Bowsers and improve them, making them solid running rolling stock with as accurate details as we can? This may be blasphemy for some but I offer these thoughts as a 50 something who looks forward to many years of modeling pleasure. Thank you for your patience, Keith Kempster Jacksonville, FL [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Sunshine Gifts or Mini-Kits
Greg Martin
Guys,
I have a couple of the Mini Kits I will never finish as they are just not a good fit for me. 1. CB&Q FM-11, 11A Flatcar 2. MP Raised Roof Three Bay Limestone Hopper I would gladly sell them at a fair price. Greg Martin Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it. Norman Maclean
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Ancient Kadee coupler centering springs wanted
Bud Rindfleisch
Any of you been in HO long enough to remember or even have used the earliest Kadee couplers with the straight uncoupling pin? Theses couplers used a small, tightly coiled centering spring at the rear/center of the shank.
I have a need for several of these springs, or as many as I can get. I realize there are spring manufacturers out there who could supply similar, but I was hoping some of you would have a surplus laying around as these are the right length for my needs. Thanks for any help. Bud Rindfleisch
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Re: Sunshine Gifts or Mini-Kits
I remember the C of G half door and some other things to make the C of G
door and a half 40 ft box, when I went to Naperville one year. fenton wells On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Jim Hayes <jimhayes97225@gmail.com> wrote: ** -- Fenton Wells 5 Newberry Lane Pinehurst NC 28374 910-420-1144 srrfan1401@gmail.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Disposition of the Collection of H.K. Vollrath
??? Gene, jdbandman@earthlink.net is an email address, not a URL.
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Tim
At 7/14/2013 10:35 AM Sunday, you wrote:
Tim,
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