Date   

Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Aley, Jeff A
 

Has anyone figured out a way to strip a resin kit that contains BOTH resin AND styrene parts?  Is grit-blasting the only way?

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of RUTLANDRS@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

 

 

 

Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.

Chuck Hladik


Re: SP C-30-1 Caboose Handrails Colour

Jim Betz
 

Dave,

The following may help you to decide - and hopefully
will make the process a lot easier to do and at the same
time end up with freight cars you like more.

I have a "standard practice" that includes touching all of
the handrails, grabs, corner brackets, drop steps, brake
wheels, couplers, cut levers, etc., etc., etc. with a brush
with "whatever shade of 'Tuscan' I happen to mix up that
day". I don't try to 'cover' them ... just a dab/stroke/run
the brush over it here and there.
I normally start with about 4 to 1 Tuscan to some shade
of Mineral Red/any shade of burnt umber/burnt sienna/
red umber etc. ... but I don't pay a lot of attention to the
number of drops of each color and let whatever I can
reach easiest be as much my method as anything else.
And I will frequently add a couple of drops of grey or black
or white or a mustardy yellow (CNW or reefer yellow). I do
not have a 'formula' that I use every time ... other
than starting with some shade of "tuscan".

But the key point is that I do -not- want it to match the
body color. I want it to be "a few shades different".

When you do this - the result is a handrail/grab that looks
like the right color ... but it "stands out from the body".

Background - most of the time when you look at a real
freight car there is a highlight+shadow effect going on (yes,
even when it isn't in full sun ... *G*). The details tend to be
more noticeable than any factory paint car -model- that
you see on any layout any where. To understand what I
mean go fish out any unweathered Kadee box car you
have and hold it up next to your computer monitor that
is on a color picture of a real 'tuscan' box car.
Unless you use extremely high quantities of light on your
layout you just don't get those shadows. And even if the
shadow is there ... the size of the grabs/handrails/etc. are
so small that our eyes don't pick them up.

So my "just a couple of shades off of the body" ... simulates
the "shadows" - and my goal of having the detail part look
correct - but "pop out" without being too big a difference
is achieved.

When trying to add some 'rust' to detail colors other than
freight car red ... I like to thin the paint out until it flows
(runs) into the corners ...
- Jim Betz

P.S. I like to go back after doing the detail weathering and
shoot what I refer to as "blending coats" of some
shade of grimy black, mud, etc.
I have found that since I started doing the brush
detail weathering (which includes washes, etc.) that
I use a LOT less paint during this blending process.


Re: ADMIN: Yahoogroup Changes

Aley, Jeff A
 

Paul,


To create a new message with a new topic (new subject), click the purple "New Topic" button.


To upload a photo, you must know one new rule: All photos MUST be in an album.  This is probably a good idea, as it keeps the photos a little more organized.  To upload a photo to an existing album, first find and click on that album, then click the purple button "+ Add Photos".  To create a new album (and then put pictures in it), click the purple button "+ New Album".


In general, the purple buttons are the ones you want to pay attention to.


Regards,


-Jeff Aley

Deputy Moderator, STMFC




--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

 

I saw the recent discussions here about the new Yahoo formats, but hadn't tried to post anything in the new system. Then I tried to post some photos to 2 different groups and I can't do it. I also couldn't post a new message to this group but was able to get thru as a reply to an existing post.
 
I click on "Photos" and it connects to the albums. Then I click on an album and it goes into the album. Then I click on "Add Photos" and a window comes up saying, "New Album", which I don't want to do or add. Then when I click on the "Cancel" it won't exit the screen, locks up the whole page, and I can only get outta there by clicking back into "Home" or "Mail" from my top-of-screen "Address Bar".
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with my computer (Windows 7). Am I doing something wrong or is YAHOO goofing-up? (Dumb question???)
 
Also, Mike Brock, you must be quite ecstatic that the UP Big Boy 4014 is going to run again. I've seen the 4-6-6-4 running thru here in Houston, TX. Can't wait to see the Big Boy come thru here 500 feet from my house.
 
Thanks for any help, Paul Hillman


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Charles Hladik
 

For those interested, Mr. Gilbert of Sylvan's name is CLARE, not Claire.
Chuck Hladik
 

In a message dated 9/5/2013 8:53:43 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, va661midlo@... writes:
 

I met Claire Gilbert at the NMRA convention in Atlanta, and can confirm Don's description of Mr. Gilbert.

Ken Montero


From: "Don"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2013 7:28:54 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

 



--- In STMFC@..., RUTLANDRS@... wrote:
>
> _Modelling tips for resin kits_
> (http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/modelling.htm#StrippingPaint)
>
> Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.
> Chuck Hladik

Sylvan is owned and operated in Ontario by Claire Gilbert whom I can state having known him for some 25 years is one of the nicest and most accomodating fellows in the hobby business. His kits are great
and as well thought out as the advice he provides to which Chuck has refered us. Those who know Claire will tell you that he is even better than his kits. He can usually be found at least at the Amherst Railway Society Show in West Springfield, Mass. the last weekend in January or the first weekend in February each year. The next one is scheduled for the 25th & 26th of January 2014 and I say without hesitation that it
is easily the largest such show in North America.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: Speedwitch web site

paul.doggett2472@...
 

Excellent news

Paul Doggett England 


--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to be. That said, here are a few things of note:

 

The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com

 

The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to follow.

 

There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects (besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information about a new kit soon, too.

 

Thanks for everybody's patience.

 

Cheers,

Ted Culotta


ADMIN: test msg

Aley, Jeff A
 

This is a test.  I am using the web interface to create a new message by clicking the purple "New Topic" button.


-Jeff Aley,
Deputy Moderator, STMFC


Re: Speedwitch web site

Brad Andonian
 

Dear Ted,
 
What are the chances you will scale these decals to O?    Glad to see you are back, but we 2R folks would have sincere interest in your decals too.
 
Brad Andonian

From: "speedwitchmedia@..."
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2013 6:47 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Speedwitch web site
 
I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to be. That said, here are a few things of note:
 
 
The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to follow.
 
There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects (besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information about a new kit soon, too.
 
Thanks for everybody's patience.
 
Cheers,
Ted Culotta


Re: Speedwitch web site

Barry Bennett
 

Hi Ted

Good to see you back in action.

Barry


On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 3:05 PM, BRIAN PAUL EHNI <bpehni@...> wrote:
 

Great news.

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

From: <speedwitchmedia@...>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Date: Thursday, September 5, 2013 8:47 AM
To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Speedwitch web site



I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a
little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web
work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from
scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to
be. That said, here are a few things of note:

The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com <http://www.speedwitchmedia.com>


The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect
to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to
follow.

There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects
(besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information
about a new kit soon, too.

Thanks for everybody's patience.

Cheers,

Ted Culotta

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: Speedwitch web site

 

Great news.

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

From: <speedwitchmedia@gmail.com>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, September 5, 2013 8:47 AM
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Speedwitch web site






I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a
little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web
work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from
scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to
be. That said, here are a few things of note:



The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com <http://www.speedwitchmedia.com>



The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect
to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to
follow.



There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects
(besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information
about a new kit soon, too.



Thanks for everybody's patience.



Cheers,

Ted Culotta









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Speedwitch web site

O Fenton Wells
 

You da man Ted.  Glad to see you back up.
Fenton Wells, 


On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 9:47 AM, <speedwitchmedia@...> wrote:
 

I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to be. That said, here are a few things of note:

 

The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com

 

The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to follow.

 

There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects (besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information about a new kit soon, too.

 

Thanks for everybody's patience.

 

Cheers,

Ted Culotta




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Speedwitch web site

Ted Culotta
 

I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to be. That said, here are a few things of note:

 

The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com

 

The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to follow.

 

There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects (besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information about a new kit soon, too.

 

Thanks for everybody's patience.

 

Cheers,

Ted Culotta


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Kenneth Montero
 

I met Claire Gilbert at the NMRA convention in Atlanta, and can confirm Don's description of Mr. Gilbert.

Ken Montero



From: "Don"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2013 7:28:54 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

 



--- In STMFC@..., RUTLANDRS@... wrote:
>
> _Modelling tips for resin kits_
> (http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/modelling.htm#StrippingPaint)
>
> Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.
> Chuck Hladik

Sylvan is owned and operated in Ontario by Claire Gilbert whom I can state having known him for some 25 years is one of the nicest and most accomodating fellows in the hobby business. His kits are great
and as well thought out as the advice he provides to which Chuck has refered us. Those who know Claire will tell you that he is even better than his kits. He can usually be found at least at the Amherst Railway Society Show in West Springfield, Mass. the last weekend in January or the first weekend in February each year. The next one is scheduled for the 25th & 26th of January 2014 and I say without hesitation that it
is easily the largest such show in North America.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: SP C-30-1 Caboose Handrails Colour

North Model Railroad Supplies <nmrs@...>
 

Hi Charlie,

Thanks very much for your help.

Cheers

Dave North

 


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, RUTLANDRS@... wrote:

_Modelling tips for resin kits_
(http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/modelling.htm#StrippingPaint)

Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.
Chuck Hladik

Sylvan is owned and operated in Ontario by Claire Gilbert whom I can state having known him for some 25 years is one of the nicest and most accomodating fellows in the hobby business. His kits are great
and as well thought out as the advice he provides to which Chuck has refered us. Those who know Claire will tell you that he is even better than his kits. He can usually be found at least at the Amherst Railway Society Show in West Springfield, Mass. the last weekend in January or the first weekend in February each year. The next one is scheduled for the 25th & 26th of January 2014 and I say without hesitation that it
is easily the largest such show in North America.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Kenneth Montero
 

Chuck,

Thanks for sharing your find.

Ken Montero



From: RUTLANDRS@...
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2013 8:23:00 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

 

 
Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.
Chuck Hladik


Re: ADMIN: Yahoogroup Changes

Paul Hillman
 

 


Re: An alternative body filler putty

Bill Welch
 

Based on Andy's endorsement of the Devcon 2-ton epoxy a few years ago I bought some to use as an adhesive since my luck with other two-part epoxies had been terrible. It has been very reliable and I am now down to a very small amount. While in the Atlanta area recently I was driving by an Ace Hardware and decide to pull in and buy some more but they did not have any. Based on a recent recommendation from another modeler I trust, I did buy some JB Weld but have not tried it as yet. I the mean time when I returned home I called the nearest Ace and they have the 2-Ton product. I need to go get 2 or 3 to both use and hord.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:

I was introduced years ago by a close friend to the very useful epoxy product "2-Ton white epoxy" by Devcon. Besides being super user-friendly for filling small molds for castings, it made a great surfacing putty for filling blemishes on model freight cars in that it did not shrink, and had a very smooth surface after sanding. I liked that the hardness of the cured product was similar to styrene and resin, which reduced the cupping which occurs when too soft filler material is sanded down below adjoining surfaces.

All was well until about 5 years ago when Ace Hardware no longer offered the Devcon 2-ton. I tried some Ace brand of "Marine" epoxy, which worked well enough, but that too is sometimes hard to find. What would be good was to have a product which has been around for a long time, will be around for some time to come, and be available everywhere. 

"J-B Weld" epoxy-- tried some found at hardware and auto part stores and found it to be great for both casting and general surfacing.

If anyone reading this post would be interested in trying out some small parts casting, try making a simple single-use mold made by pressing the part desired for copying into some modeling clay. Carefully extract the part and fill the resulting cavity with the J-B Weld using a flat toothpick as a trowel and see if the magic of casting can be as fun as others have discovered. Isopropyl alcohol works well both as a thinning agent (to lower the viscosity) and general cleanup.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


An alternative body filler putty

Andy Carlson
 

I was introduced years ago by a close friend to the very useful epoxy product "2-Ton white epoxy" by Devcon. Besides being super user-friendly for filling small molds for castings, it made a great surfacing putty for filling blemishes on model freight cars in that it did not shrink, and had a very smooth surface after sanding. I liked that the hardness of the cured product was similar to styrene and resin, which reduced the cupping which occurs when too soft filler material is sanded down below adjoining surfaces.

All was well until about 5 years ago when Ace Hardware no longer offered the Devcon 2-ton. I tried some Ace brand of "Marine" epoxy, which worked well enough, but that too is sometimes hard to find. What would be good was to have a product which has been around for a long time, will be around for some time to come, and be available everywhere. 

"J-B Weld" epoxy-- tried some found at hardware and auto part stores and found it to be great for both casting and general surfacing.

If anyone reading this post would be interested in trying out some small parts casting, try making a simple single-use mold made by pressing the part desired for copying into some modeling clay. Carefully extract the part and fill the resulting cavity with the J-B Weld using a flat toothpick as a trowel and see if the magic of casting can be as fun as others have discovered. Isopropyl alcohol works well both as a thinning agent (to lower the viscosity) and general cleanup.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Re: SLSF hopper cars

Jared Harper
 

Thanks for the input.


Jared Harper

Athens, GA



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Since our house fire most of my railroad materials are packed up and inaccessible.  I do have a Santa Fe Form 815 that lists cars through Hessdale and Eskridge from 1957-1972.  This is past my May 1943 modeling era, but I am wondering if the SLSF hoppers that delivered a lot of coal to Eskridge might be older and still fit my era.  The cars range in number from 88229-92886 in the book.  Anyone have data on these cars?

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: SP C-30-1 Caboose Handrails Colour

Charles Morrill
 

The curved handrails on the car side and the outside vertical rail on the platform handrail was painted white. All other grab irons and railing was body color.
Charlie

-----Original Message-----
From: North Model Railroad Supplies
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 12:18 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] SP C-30-1 Caboose Handrails Colour

I'm adding the wire bits to a Walthers SP C-30-1 caboose and was wondering
what color the handrails, grab irons etc were in 1953?

If they were body color, does anyone have a match for the color Walthers
painted these cars?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers

Dave North









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