Date   

Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper

mopacfirst
 

Yes, I totally concur about the wire grabs and handrails, as well as more-to-scale molded components. What I really meant was in regard to proportions, versions, ease of modification, and so forth. Lots of us have conundrums on account of newer, finer-scale models that appear when we have quite a few updated or re-detailed older models that are lacking in the fineness of detail because the state of the art keeps moving on. But the old ones aren't total recycle bait yet.

The closet keeps filling up.....

Ron Merrick


The RPCyc #27 is out, with the first of some articles on the ACF 70-ton covered hopper built prior to 1957. So I looked and I have some each Kato, Bowser and Intermountain. I even have some old MDCs somewhere, which for their era were not bad and the couplers didn't droop, unlike Athearn. And at least one E&B Valley.......

Just did a



On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 1:51 PM, mopacfirst <ron.merrick@ mailto:ron.merrick@> wrote:
<snip> It's not obvious to me that there are any real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and handrails.


Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper

Curt Fortenberry
 

 

I'm assembling an IM undec kit right now in fact.  First one I've tried and I'm impressed really.  Has all the wire parts pre bent including the brake system, and everything is going together just great.  For an undec, it is truely a kit, nothing preassembled.  Roof, end cages, hopper outlets, details, etc, all need to be added.  Haven't really had any issues with the instructions, a couple of drill points on the brake system were missed, but if you've ever done that before you know what to drill and when.  I can send a photo if you want. 

 

Curt Fortenberry

 

On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 2:48 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:
Ron,
I bought the undec kits from IM.  Attached is a photo.  They are not "snap together" construction but I managed to get it done.  My mistake was getting Jerry Glow to do the Southern decals.  I can't get any more decals so I am stuck with the 2 cars I did get decals for.  Jerry also did the later round roof cars for the Southern as well and as that is too modern for me I didn't order them.
Back to the subject.  I really like the IM cars, to me they look right on. I lost some of the hatch rod holder pieces( due to my fat fingers) that go in the roof and called them and they sent me another sprue .  One other thing is that if you are going to weather the slope sheet as on the prototype it did get wheel splatter I suggest you paint it and weather it prior to assemble.  Tough to get in there after the car is complete.  I had to use a small brush with chalk powder.


On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 1:51 PM, mopacfirst <ron.merrick@...> wrote:
 

The RPCyc #27 is out, with the first of some articles on the ACF 70-ton covered hopper built prior to 1957. So I looked and I have some each Kato, Bowser and Intermountain. I even have some old MDCs somewhere, which for their era were not bad and the couplers didn't droop, unlike Athearn. And at least one E&B Valley.......

Just did a quick look, and it seems all three (Kato, Bowser, and IM) are currently available in some form. It's not obvious to me that there are any real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and handrails.

IM lists the open-side and the closed-side car as kits, but their site shows partially or completely assembled cars. Anybody bought some who can tell whether they are or are not kits? What's molded together -- the roof and sides, or the underbody / hoppers and sides?

Looks like all of them have the Type 1 roof and hatch covers. I know there's a resin roof conversion coming, but have there ever been any injection-molded models with a different style roof? Anyone have experience with the Detail Associates hatch cover?

Sorry, lot of questions. Thanks Ed, for provoking this much thought.

Ron Merrick




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane



--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              910-420-1144      end_of_the_skype_highlighting
srrfan1401@...


Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper

O Fenton Wells
 

Ron, one more note regarding the IM cars.  I totally agree with Tony Thompson's comments regarding the improvements from prior models of this car.  I had them all and they went on eBay.  At my age I'm not cutting, drilling and bending to add wire grabs to a hopper especially when I can buy a kit that has done it for me.  I seem to get lazier the older I get.
Fenton Wells


On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 2:48 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:
Ron,
I bought the undec kits from IM.  Attached is a photo.  They are not "snap together" construction but I managed to get it done.  My mistake was getting Jerry Glow to do the Southern decals.  I can't get any more decals so I am stuck with the 2 cars I did get decals for.  Jerry also did the later round roof cars for the Southern as well and as that is too modern for me I didn't order them.
Back to the subject.  I really like the IM cars, to me they look right on. I lost some of the hatch rod holder pieces( due to my fat fingers) that go in the roof and called them and they sent me another sprue .  One other thing is that if you are going to weather the slope sheet as on the prototype it did get wheel splatter I suggest you paint it and weather it prior to assemble.  Tough to get in there after the car is complete.  I had to use a small brush with chalk powder.


On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 1:51 PM, mopacfirst <ron.merrick@...> wrote:
 

The RPCyc #27 is out, with the first of some articles on the ACF 70-ton covered hopper built prior to 1957. So I looked and I have some each Kato, Bowser and Intermountain. I even have some old MDCs somewhere, which for their era were not bad and the couplers didn't droop, unlike Athearn. And at least one E&B Valley.......

Just did a quick look, and it seems all three (Kato, Bowser, and IM) are currently available in some form. It's not obvious to me that there are any real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and handrails.

IM lists the open-side and the closed-side car as kits, but their site shows partially or completely assembled cars. Anybody bought some who can tell whether they are or are not kits? What's molded together -- the roof and sides, or the underbody / hoppers and sides?

Looks like all of them have the Type 1 roof and hatch covers. I know there's a resin roof conversion coming, but have there ever been any injection-molded models with a different style roof? Anyone have experience with the Detail Associates hatch cover?

Sorry, lot of questions. Thanks Ed, for provoking this much thought.

Ron Merrick




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...



--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper

O Fenton Wells
 

Ron,
I bought the undec kits from IM. Attached is a photo. They are not "snap
together" construction but I managed to get it done. My mistake was
getting Jerry Glow to do the Southern decals. I can't get any more decals
so I am stuck with the 2 cars I did get decals for. Jerry also did the
later round roof cars for the Southern as well and as that is too modern
for me I didn't order them.
Back to the subject. I really like the IM cars, to me they look right on.
I lost some of the hatch rod holder pieces( due to my fat fingers) that go
in the roof and called them and they sent me another sprue . One other
thing is that if you are going to weather the slope sheet as on the
prototype it did get wheel splatter I suggest you paint it and weather it
prior to assemble. Tough to get in there after the car is complete. I had
to use a small brush with chalk powder.


On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 1:51 PM, mopacfirst <ron.merrick@fluor.com> wrote:

**


The RPCyc #27 is out, with the first of some articles on the ACF 70-ton
covered hopper built prior to 1957. So I looked and I have some each Kato,
Bowser and Intermountain. I even have some old MDCs somewhere, which for
their era were not bad and the couplers didn't droop, unlike Athearn. And
at least one E&B Valley.......

Just did a quick look, and it seems all three (Kato, Bowser, and IM) are
currently available in some form. It's not obvious to me that there are any
real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and
handrails.

IM lists the open-side and the closed-side car as kits, but their site
shows partially or completely assembled cars. Anybody bought some who can
tell whether they are or are not kits? What's molded together -- the roof
and sides, or the underbody / hoppers and sides?

Looks like all of them have the Type 1 roof and hatch covers. I know
there's a resin roof conversion coming, but have there ever been any
injection-molded models with a different style roof? Anyone have experience
with the Detail Associates hatch cover?

Sorry, lot of questions. Thanks Ed, for provoking this much thought.

Ron Merrick




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@gmail.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper

Tony Thompson
 

Ron Merrick wrote:
 

Just did a quick look, and it seems all three (Kato, Bowser, and IM) are currently available in some form. It's not obvious to me that there are any real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and handrails.

      Ron, I would say the IM cars are a HUGE improvement over the older designs with their cast-on grab iron rows. Kato was a great improvement over the old E&B Valley kit when it came out, but neither it nor Bowser hold a candle to the IM model, IMO. If you spot two together, Kato and IM (yes,  still have some Katos), I do not think you will say there aren't "any real differences" between them. 

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: Athearn Blue Box boxcar -- prototype?

Tony Thompson
 

Alex Schneider wrote:

This morning I stripped the lettering, and took a closer look at the underbody. The brake components have to go as there is no way the brake cylinder can point at the brake wheel. I will probably replace the weight as steel weights give problems with uncoupling magnets. I will also replace the wheels.


      The brake gear problem is that it is reversed. A minimal correction is to cut off the brake parts and simply glue them in the same spot, but on the other side of the center sill. Now they are correctly aligned. Of course they are kind of crude, and you need brake rigging to be added.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)

Ray Breyer
 

There seems to be a lot of confusion about the name, but I believe the correct >name is the "Sunday Creek Coal Co."
Also you maybe counting the cars twice.
Hopefully this information will help clarify your rosters.
Bob Witt
Hi Bob,


You're likely right on both counts. I whipped up this preliminary roster in a couple of hours in the dark of night! I'll look into the Sandy/Sunday issue when I get a chance. As for the roster, any time a reporting mark shows up, it'll get added! I'll later trace the origins of each. It's simpler to list them that way for a variety of reasons.

Regards,

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)

Ray Breyer
 

C of Ga    < The Central didn't have these.
Todd Horton
Thanks Todd; I'll scrub the CofG from the list.

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)

Ray Breyer
 

Thanks Earl! I'll add this information in to my data pile.

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


From: Earl Tuson
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 8:51 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)

Ray Breyer says,

> The D&H and SAL cars seem to be unique to those roads,

The 100 B&M cars (5900-5999, SSC 1905) appear to have been diverted from a D&H order to the New England road. 
The cars were identical, and the builder's photo shows a D&H car number that never appeared in the ORER.  B&M class
cards even identify them as "D&H hopper gondola cars."

Earl Tuson


ACF 70-ton covered hopper

mopacfirst
 

The RPCyc #27 is out, with the first of some articles on the ACF 70-ton covered hopper built prior to 1957. So I looked and I have some each Kato, Bowser and Intermountain. I even have some old MDCs somewhere, which for their era were not bad and the couplers didn't droop, unlike Athearn. And at least one E&B Valley.......

Just did a quick look, and it seems all three (Kato, Bowser, and IM) are currently available in some form. It's not obvious to me that there are any real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and handrails.

IM lists the open-side and the closed-side car as kits, but their site shows partially or completely assembled cars. Anybody bought some who can tell whether they are or are not kits? What's molded together -- the roof and sides, or the underbody / hoppers and sides?

Looks like all of them have the Type 1 roof and hatch covers. I know there's a resin roof conversion coming, but have there ever been any injection-molded models with a different style roof? Anyone have experience with the Detail Associates hatch cover?

Sorry, lot of questions. Thanks Ed, for provoking this much thought.

Ron Merrick


Re: Lead shot in flat cars

Jim Betz
 

Hi,

Lead shot isn't perfectly round and doesn't roll as
well as you expect it to do. I haven't tried it in a
tube but my experience with 000 shot and a plastic
funnel makes me doubt the tubing approach. But
I will try it.
Question - how do you load the tubing - put some
of it in your palm and push the tubing into it?

I have not seen -any- "swelling" of the lead due to
the acid in the white glue. But the form of white
glue I use is Krystal Klear (KK) and maybe it has less
acid?
I've been using KK as a "general purpose adhesive"
for several years now. Sometimes I thin it with water
and sometimes I just drop it off of a round toothpick.
I live in San Jose - not a particularly humid climate
but definitely not desert either. The KK never even
absorbs enough moisture out of the air to soften.
For me, one of the great things about using KK (or
other forms of white glue) is that you can put a drop
of water on it and set it aside and it will soften and
let go (eventually - as in several hours).
Yes, I agree that KK's drying/setting time is horribly
long compared to most of the adhesives we use in
this hobby ===> I've learned to live with that aspect.
Another great thing about KK is that it forms a natural
fillet and therefore greatly increases the strength of
any 90-degree joint. Be careful to support the work
correctly - the KK can 'suck' the 2 pieces towards
each other as it dries.
KK also forms a natural electrical insulator when
dry - so it is particularly useful when installing
#603 LEDs in a marker on a caboose.
I like KK for doing work such as attaching cab
shades to a painted diesel - where the fillet and the
fact that it dries clear makes it especially valuable.
It is also very useful when replacing the grabs/drop
steps/ladders on an already painted freight car.
KK is just one of the many adhesives I use - all the
time. Try it, you may like it. I rarely use it for the
purpose it is sold for (windows) ... but almost
always use KK to attach clear plastic glazing.
- Jim Betz


Re: Santa Fe Bx-38 question

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Oct 27, 2013, at 5:22 AM, Rich C <rhcdmc@...> wrote:

 

Group, I have a question regarding how the brake reservoir is mounted on the Bx-38 War emergency box car. Is it mounted conventionally or traversely?

Conventionally, Rich - i.e., with longitudinal center line parallel to the center sills.

Richard Hendrickson



Re: Lead shot in flat cars

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 10/27/2013 4:57 AM, Don Burn wrote:
Think about a tungsten sheet (they are available on Amazon), they weight 1.7
times lead.

    The only tungsten sheets I found on amazon were the photo kind.  Very much different from the metal kind and very much cheaper.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax--Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)

rwitt_2000
 

Ray,

There seems to be a lot of confusion about the name, but I believe the correct name is the "Sunday Creek Coal Co." not the "Sandy Creek Coal Company". These cars were numbered into B&O series, but lettered for the Sunday Creek Coal Co. These "Seley" clones were assigned class N-11 by the B&O and the class was assigned to the hoppers for the Fairmont Coal Co.

Also you maybe counting the cars twice. The one equipment diagram for the B&O class N-11 I have lists 1980 cars in the series 130020-131999 with the cars number 130020-131699 coming from the "Fairmont Coal Co. originally numbered 3000-4699, and car numbers 131700-131799 coming from "Sandy (sic) Creek Coal Co." numbered as at present (i.e. the same numbers).

Hopefully this information will help clarify your rosters.

Regards,

Bob Witt

 



---In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

C of Ga    < The Central didn't have these.
 
Todd Horton


On Saturday, October 26, 2013 9:43 AM, Ray Breyer <rtbsvrr69@...> wrote:
 
>The problem we face with such a prototype is that Seley hoppers were a
>style of construction rather a single design like say USRA cars were. No two
>designs were sufficiently alike for me to see much commonality in tooling

>between the various roads that had them.
>Aidrian

Hi guys,

I've been interested in Seley hoppers for a while, since like 36' double sheathed boxcars and all-wood gons, they're something that the average pre-Depression era modeler needs a few of. Aidrian's right though: in general, there were several different varieties of these hoppers running around, which makes marketing a model of them difficult.

But there weren't ALL that many types. I need to do an in-depth examination of the car type, but just by looking at the data that I could find last night, they can be broken down into four general "types": D&H, N&W, Southern and SAL, The D&H and SAL cars seem to be unique to those roads, but in general, the N&W and Southern cars were copied by everyone else. Details and dimensions changed, but the overall "look" of the vast bulk of these cars mostly fall under those types.

As a topic-stretcher, here's what I was able to come up with as a quick & dirty Seley hopper roster last night:

AB&A - 250 (to ACL)
B&O - 3000
B&M - 100
Berwind-White Coal Mining Co. - (unknown)
C&O - (unknown)
Coal & Coke Co. - 275
Cumberland & Pennsylvania - 1500
Deepwater - 500 (to Virginian)
D&H - (unknown; thousands)
Fairmont Coal Co - 1700 (to B&O)
GB&W - 25 (from Virginian)
Island Creek Coal Co. - 200
L&HR - 500
L&N - 250
M&O - (unknown; to GM&O)
NC&StL - (unknown)
Norfolk Southern - 50
NYO&W - 1350
N&W - (unknown; thousands)
RI - 250
Sandy Creek Coal Co. - 300
SLSF - 500
SAL - 300
Southern - 4,600 (also AGS and CNO&TP)
TStL&W - 45 (to NKP)

And here's a few railroads thay MAY have had Seley-type hoppers, but which will require a bit more digging:
Buffalo & Susquehanna
C of Ga
C&O
GN
These roads may well have had all wood cars that at a glance "kinda sorta" look like Seleys (by definition, a Seley hopper has to have steel channel outside bracing).

Hope this helps,

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL

(as a personal preference, I'd be happy with styrene models of the modified D&H Seleys and with the N&W's HG or HH class cars. Those two have the best chance of selling to the Great Unwashed, and cover the largest groups of cars)



NYC 40 ft. AAR 50 Ton Postwar Boxcar Questions

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

I’m detailing two of the NYC 40 ft. AAR 50 ton postwar boxcars from Branchline kits. I’m a CB&Q modeler, and my knowledge of foreign road freight cars is minimal at best. Research has revealed the following:

 

40 ft. AAR 50 Ton Boxcar Series 165000-165999

Lot 763-B built April 1948 by Greenville Steel Car Co.

10 panel sides

4/4 improved Dreadnaught ends

Murphy panel roof

4/5/5 improved Youngstown door

Apex running board and break step

7 rung ladders

Klasing hand brake

End tack boards constructed with four vertical boards; side tack boards have horizontal boards

Paint: Sides and ends freight car brown, roof and underbody black car cement, running boards unpainted (brake platform ?), edges of running board, running board projection beyond ends, and roof grab irons freight car brown.

 

I’ve heard that Klasing hand brakes are included in the P2K Mather 40 ft. boxcar and the Red Caboose Mather meat reefer kits, but they are not sold separately to my knowledge. Is there another source of Klasing hand brake parts?

 

Was the Apex brake platform painted to match the end or left unpainted?

 

Are placard boards with four vertical boards commercially available, or is the going to be a scratchbuild project?

 

Are there any other modeling details that I need to know about these cars?

 

The Branchline Blueprint kit appears to be quite accurate for this car except for the hand brake and end placard boards. Branchline supplies the ubiquitous Ajax hand brakes.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Nelson Moyer

 


Re: Reboxx Wheel set Issue

Thomas Olsen <tmolsen@...>
 

It is getting bad when you cannot type your own name correctly!

Tom Olsen

On 10/27/13, Thomas Olsen <tmolsen@udel.edu> wrote:
Brian,

It is possible that when the wheelsets were packaged, that the
wheelset in question got mixed in by accident. The best thing to do
is to drop J.P. a note and tell him. Knowing him, he will probably
replace it and may ask that you return the one you received.

Tom Olser
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479

On 10/13/13, Brian Carlson <prrk41361@yahoo.com> wrote:
Ben: I'm not complaining, I was just wondering if others had had it
happen.
I'll use another 1600 of their wheel sets if I get everything built.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Ben
Heinley
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 8:44 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Reboxx Wheel set Issue





Did you write the manufacturer? I think I would have tried contacting
them
before

writing to this forum especially after having a problem with one set
after
installing "hundreds of sets". Then you may have been able to have
written
a positive

letter about a manufacturer trying hard to service our needs.

I am not a manufacturer but have worked for "P.E.s"

Ben H
in Denver



On Sun, Oct 13, 2013 at 3:26 PM, Brian Carlson <prrk41361@yahoo.com>
wrote:



In the first time for everything, I have an issue with a Reboxx wheel
set.
I
recently purchased two packages of 1.020, 33", one side insulated (yellow
package) wheel sets. I was installing some in a car today and the wheel
set
was TIGHT, the other 3 were fine. I thought maybe I forgot to use the
tool
on the one axle. Used the conical tool, reinserted, nope still tight.
Turns
out at least one axle in the 1.020 package was 1.040. Oops. First time
I've
run into this in the hundreds of wheel sets I've installed. Has this
happened to anyone else? It will just go into another drawer in the wheel
set cabinet. Also, I tried another 1.020 axle and it was fine so the
problem
is the wheel set.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY








Re: Reboxx Wheel set Issue

Thomas Olsen <tmolsen@...>
 

Brian,

It is possible that when the wheelsets were packaged, that the
wheelset in question got mixed in by accident. The best thing to do
is to drop J.P. a note and tell him. Knowing him, he will probably
replace it and may ask that you return the one you received.

Tom Olser
Newark, Delaware, 19711-7479

On 10/13/13, Brian Carlson <prrk41361@yahoo.com> wrote:
Ben: I'm not complaining, I was just wondering if others had had it happen.
I'll use another 1600 of their wheel sets if I get everything built.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ben
Heinley
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 8:44 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Reboxx Wheel set Issue





Did you write the manufacturer? I think I would have tried contacting
them
before

writing to this forum especially after having a problem with one set after
installing "hundreds of sets". Then you may have been able to have written
a positive

letter about a manufacturer trying hard to service our needs.

I am not a manufacturer but have worked for "P.E.s"

Ben H
in Denver



On Sun, Oct 13, 2013 at 3:26 PM, Brian Carlson <prrk41361@yahoo.com> wrote:



In the first time for everything, I have an issue with a Reboxx wheel set.
I
recently purchased two packages of 1.020, 33", one side insulated (yellow
package) wheel sets. I was installing some in a car today and the wheel
set
was TIGHT, the other 3 were fine. I thought maybe I forgot to use the tool
on the one axle. Used the conical tool, reinserted, nope still tight. Turns
out at least one axle in the 1.020 package was 1.040. Oops. First time I've
run into this in the hundreds of wheel sets I've installed. Has this
happened to anyone else? It will just go into another drawer in the wheel
set cabinet. Also, I tried another 1.020 axle and it was fine so the
problem
is the wheel set.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga, NY








Re: Hart Ballast Cars *** Kits for Sale***

Doug Junda
 

All have been sold .

Thanks,
Doug


___


Re: Seley Hoppers

Steve H <nwicfan@...>
 

I have posted four photos of Seley hoppers in the group's file section. One B&O, two Southern and one Frisco.
 
- Steve Hedlund


On Saturday, October 26, 2013 10:30 PM, Steve H wrote:
Hey Guys,
 
During a recent thread, Seley hoppers were brought up and I thought that I would see how long they actually lasted.
 
B&O N11-class 130020-series cars: 1911: 1,969 cars; 1930: 228 cars; 1935: 0 cars
Southern RY 282100-series cars: 1930: 1,863 cars; 1950: 1,784 cars; 1955: 110 cars
SLSF 80400-series cars: 1911: 495 cars; 1925: 464 cars; 1930: 29 cars
 
I'll grant anyone by saying that compared to other hopper types, there were not many made but they could be on-par with USRA hoppers (not USRA copies) and Mather cars. Not sure about that but it seems that way to me. I am not a freight car expert by any stretch but every now and then I'll see a photo of a Seley hopper pop up. So to me, having one or two or three Seley hoppers on a layout makes sense to me.
 
BTW, I don't know what series the N&W, D&H and other users of Seley hoppers were but I just grabbed three Seley cars and just followed the bread crumbs. Obviously most cars didn't make it past the Great Depression. But neither did Billboard reefers or Heinz reefers. Just saying.
 
- Steve Hedlund



Re: Lead shot in flat cars

 

Chad – As long as you’re casing your own cars, why not cast the decks from a heavy, low melting point  metal like Cerro Bend?  My first castings were done this way.  In fact I still have a truss rod flat with Cerro Bend deck.  I cast it in a sealed vertical mold with gate and air relief lines made from card stock and carefully greased with Vaseline.  The mold is held together by plywood and clamps.  This arrangement is heated in the kitchen oven to the melting point of the metal.  The metal is melted on the stove and poured into the mold.  When cool the metal is soft enough for scribing a wood deck.  If doing a metal one, punch indentations in the cardstock to represent rivets. – Al Westerfield
 

From: Chad Boas
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 6:54 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Lead shot in flat cars
 
 

I have been trying different ways to weight the resin flat cars that I cast. I bought some #5 shot and dropped some into in the center sill of the mold before the resin cures. I went from .4oz without lead to 1oz with lead. There are a few bumps that show up after the resin cured. If I use it only in the center sill of a fish belly side car, it would never be seen. I think for the straight sill cars, I could get some key stock and drop into the resin.
I can post photos if anyone is interested.
Also, working on some new kits. Stay tuned!
Chad

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