Date   

Re: CNW/CMO/RockIsland resin kits

Tim O'Connor
 

Chad

Ok, I just wanted to know.. I found a drawing from the 1919 CBCyc and
as Dennis says, the drawing matches his USRA fishbelly design. Good to
know, in case I run into any Prototype Police. :-)

Tim O'

The rivet heads on the side sills in pictures match up with the Accurail cross members.
Also, the truck centers on the CNW are 31'1" which match the bolsters on the frame.
Chad Boas


Re: C&BT reefer roof

Tim O'Connor
 


Tony, he said INVERSE, not REVERSE. You are right, they are two different
things. A REVERSE end is just an end that is essentially turned around. An
INVERSE end is the one you are describing, which is more like a mirror image
of the normal outward stampings. At least, that's what makes sense to me.
YMMV. 8-)

Tim O'


Although this is not an SFRD car this IS an inverse dreadnaught end. 

     Small nit on nomenclature: the end is not, in my view, "reversed." It is simply inset. The ribs and edge darts stick up from the background on the end. A reverse end, and such did exist even on house cars, have this relationship reversed. It was common on gondolas with dreadnaught ends, to face the outward ribs INTO the car (it's the stiffer side), and then what you seen on the OUTSIDE of the end is indeed a reverse end. That is not what is shown in the photo on Tom's link.

Tony Thompson


Posted some photo's

rob.mclear3@...
 

Hi to all


I am in awe of most of the modelling on this list and thought I would put up some of my more recent humble efforts at resin car building and building with brass sides and resin roofs and floors.   After many postings and then realising that Mike has to approve photo's first, I stopped putting them in.   Sorry Mike you must have had to delete a few.  Lucky not to end up in jail I guess.

The cars were weathered but for some reason it did not come out to well in the pictures they look appropriately weathered in real life.   I don't like to weather heavily in any case as most of these cars are fairly new with the paint schemes, between  1 and 4 years old.   I know they probably should have a bit more roof grime on them and maybe some more on the sides of the eastern cars but they seem to look OK to me.   Comments are appreciated if you can see some ways to improve.   I have put them on a couple of other lists as well so if you get double ups I apologise in advance.

Regards
Rob McLear
Kingaroy Australia.


Re: C&BT reefer roof

Tony Thompson
 

Tom Hayden wrote:

 
Although this is not an SFRD car this IS an inverse dreadnaught end.  

     Small nit on nomenclature: the end is not, in my view, "reversed." It is simply inset. The ribs and edge darts stick up from the background on the end. A reverse end, and such did exist even on house cars, have this relationship reversed. It was common on gondolas with dreadnaught ends, to face the outward ribs INTO the car (it's the stiffer side), and then what you seen on the OUTSIDE of the end is indeed a reverse end. That is not what is shown in the photo on Tom's link.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: C&BT reefer roof

hayden_tom@...
 

I first became aware of these SFRD models from C&BT about 5 years ago and bought 5 or 6 old, decorated, "Style A" kits on e-bay. I also bought an IM kit for comparison.. And I obtained copies of several magazine articles including Richard Hendrickson's extensive article in Nov 94 RMJ. That's the article that included the body putty mod to the ends. I had a difficult time understanding the error that the mod was correcting. Then a few months ago Keith Jordan expressed satisfaction that IM had,indeed,, corrected the error.on the ends.


After looking closely at the  C&BT end, the IM end, and finally finding a good photo that shows the end or edge detail on the ends, I conclude that the Richard Hendrickson putty mod probably best represents the correct shape. Here's a link to a picture that shows how the ends of the reverse Dreadnaught shapes blend into the edges of the ends.:

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/atsf/atsf21790akg.jpg

Although this is not an SFRD car this IS an inverse dreadnaught end.  You can clearly see that all surfaces: large and small raised surfaces, as well as the sunken surfaces do smoothly blend into the vertical edge of the end, which is the aim of Richard's body putty mod.  In the C&BT end, the sunken surfaces end abruptly at that vertical edge. On the IM model, the ending of the sunken surface is indeed brought smoothly to the surface of the edge. But, in my opinion, the IM version is faulty in that it makes all the surface details of all the end edge segments flat, well before meeting the vertical with a very prominent repeating "W" pattern that is highly visible. Looking at this photo, it seems to me that none of the end segments are actually flat prior to the point where they actually blend to the vertical. I'm not convinced that the IM version of the end is an overall improvement over the C&BT version. 


Tom Hayden

. . 


Re: C&BT reefer roof

Bill Welch
 

I remember well the article Keith Jordan had in RMJ in the 1990's about what he felt were the fixes needed for these kits and in the article he said he planned to offer a set of resin parts to make the fixes easier. The InterMountain kit obviated the need the parts, although they might have been nice to have since C&BT's kits went beyond the IM offering in terms body styles, which in turn gave Sunshine through the pattern work of Charley Slater the opportunity to flesh the rest of the SFRD rebuilt fleet, and then some.


If I remember correctly, Keith even resorted to body putty to re-sculpt the ends, pretty daunting in my opinion.


I bought 3 kits when they first came out but after Keith's article and IM issuing their kit, I gave them away.


Bill Welch




Re: C&BT reefer roof

Andy Sperandeo
 

And it's too wide. – Andy


From: "SUVCWORR@..."
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, December 6, 2013 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] C&BT reefer roof

 
It sits too high off the sides

Rich Orr



-----Original Message-----
From: ed_mines
To: STMFC
Sent: Fri, Dec 6, 2013 4:22 pm
Subject: [STMFC] C&BT reefer roof



What was the objection to the roof in the first place?
 
Ed Mines





Re: C&BT reefer roof

SUVCWORR@...
 

It sits too high off the sides

Rich Orr



-----Original Message-----
From: ed_mines
To: STMFC
Sent: Fri, Dec 6, 2013 4:22 pm
Subject: [STMFC] C&BT reefer roof



What was the objection to the roof in the first place?
 
Ed Mines



C&BT reefer roof

ed_mines
 

What was the objection to the roof in the first place?

 

Ed Mines


Red Caboose kits

ed_mines
 

Anyone have some of the that they'd like to get rid of?

 

Would also buy Q'Craft/Ambroid caboose kits at a good price.

 

Please contact me off list.

 

Ed Mines


Re: new C&BT reefers

SUVCWORR@...
 

The hardware has been redone.  No changes to the roof.

Rich Orr



-----Original Message-----
From: ed_mines
To: STMFC
Sent: Fri, Dec 6, 2013 4:13 pm
Subject: [STMFC] new C&BT reefers



Do the new C&BT reefer kits have an improved roof? Reefer hardware?
 
Ed Mines



new C&BT reefers

ed_mines
 

Do the new C&BT reefer kits have an improved roof? Reefer hardware?

 

Ed Mines


Question IM aar alt. hopper

jon miller <atsfus@...>
 

While putting in .088 wheelsets in the trucks I noticed a thin washer on the truck mounting booster and the screws were not tight. Thought this was to shim up the coupler but with other cars the hopper seems high. Has anyone else noticed this.

--

Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax--Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: Tru-color paint

 

For those not close to a LHS, Tru Color paints can be purchased over the phone or by email:

http://www.trucolorpaint.com/


Re: SAL ventilated box cars.

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

Hello folks,

Our stock of SAL ventilated box cars is diminishing. While more will be ordered when current stock gets down to one each of the Class V-9 and V-10 vents it took several months to receive those that arrived
in our last order from Wright Trak....and piecemeal at that. Thus anyone interested in these interesting and common prototypes who wishes to have one now, before present stock is depleted, needs to order soon. As noted previously, the kits are $50 each plus $5 for shipping. To date all orders for them have been shipped within 24 hours. There are excellent photos of the model and Bill Welch's comments on building them on the resin car builders group Yahoo site. We hope tp have some of the Wright Trak gondolas available right after the first of the year as well.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: CNW/CMO/RockIsland resin kits

Dennis Storzek
 




---In STMFC@..., <timboconnor@...> wrote:
Does the Accurail floor represent a USRA design, or was this floor just
used as a common component for Accurail composite box cars, of which the
first was a single sheathed non-USRA design?


Tim O'Connor

Tim,

The Accurail fishbelly underframe is a model of the USRA design... no matter what it was initially used for, it was obvious that this design would be most useful for cars of this period.

It's been a long time, but as I recall the design work was done from the detailed underframe drawings in the 1919 CBC, which, IIRC represented the USRA refer frame, but the only real difference was the width over the side sills, which was tweaked to fit the requirements of the plastic bodies anyway.

Dennis Storzek
Accurail, Inc





>I added photos of my new kit. It's for the CNW / CMO and Rock Island box cars.
>Its the same as the Shake and Take, just a different way to get there.
>
>The kit comes with the sides, ends and lower side sills to do either the CNW / CMO,
>or the Rock Island. To finish the car you will need a roof, either Vicking or panel,
>Intermountain doors from the '37 cars, Accurail fish belly floor and al the other
>small details.
>
>Kits are $18 each.
>
>If interested, please contact me Off List.
>
>Thanks, Chad Boas


Re: CNW/CMO/RockIsland resin kits

Chad Boas
 

The rivet heads on the side sills in pictures match up with the Accurail cross members. Also, the truck centers on the CNW are 31'1"  which match the bolsters on the frame.

Chad Boas


Re: CNW/CMO/RockIsland resin kits

Tim O'Connor
 

This is not directed at Chad or Shake-N-Take, but does anyone here know
for sure:

Does the Accurail floor represent a USRA design, or was this floor just
used as a common component for Accurail composite box cars, of which the
first was a single sheathed non-USRA design?

I only bring this up because some of the Sunshine cars (e.g. SP B-50-12A)
had errors in their underframes because they were not accurate renditions
of USRA underframes. I only learned that after building mine and then when
I visited Byron Rose he showed his totally rebuilt B-50-12A floor... I know
lots of folks are indifferent about underframes, but it's just one of those
things I need to know, even if I ignore it. (We can't all be Jack Spencer or
Byron Rose. :-))

Tim O'Connor

I added photos of my new kit. It's for the CNW / CMO and Rock Island box cars.
Its the same as the Shake and Take, just a different way to get there.

The kit comes with the sides, ends and lower side sills to do either the CNW / CMO,
or the Rock Island. To finish the car you will need a roof, either Vicking or panel,
Intermountain doors from the '37 cars, Accurail fish belly floor and al the other
small details.

Kits are $18 each.

If interested, please contact me Off List.

Thanks, Chad Boas


CNW / CMO / Rock Island resin kits

Chad Boas
 

Hi all,
I added photos of my new kit. It's for the CNW / CMO and Rock Island box cars. Its the same as the Shake and Take, just a different way to get there.
The kit comes with the sides, ends and lower side sills to do either the CNW / CMO, or the Rock Island. To finish the car you will need a roof, either Vicking or panel, Intermountain doors from the '37 cars, Accurail fish belly floor and al the other small details.
Kits are $18 each.
If interested, please contact me Off List.
Thanks, Chad Boas


Re: Reading NMn caboose photos

Bruce Smith
 

Bill,

All of the shots of READING cabooses in the the red/chocolate scheme in the RDG Color Guide have yellow railings and grab irons.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...] on behalf of Bill Lane [bill@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2013 1:09 PM
To: members@...
Cc: rdg-rr@...; Steam Era Freight cars
Subject: [STMFC] Reading NMn caboose photos

I have a few Reading NMn caboose photos on line.

I got the number series and some other info from my friend John Hall. I am trying to keep the paint job simple. John said the roofs could be red which I like. I hate masking!  Were all the railings and grab irons yellow at all times?

 

If you have any other photos please send them to me directly.

 

Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1987

See my finished models at:
http://www.lanestrains.com
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

 

See my layout progress at:

http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm

Custom Train Parts Design
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Mode! ling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls 

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
http://www.prrths.com
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! http://www.prslhs.com 
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL

 



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