Don,



Thanks for the input. You say a major manufacturer of HO scale equipment is reviewing these cars now. I’m glad to hear that. However, I’ve got my sides and underframe made and am working on the ends. About all I need after that to complete this freightcar model is a good photo of the roof that clearly shows the roof detail and I can get to work on the roof masters. There has even been some discussion on whether I’d be interested in having the cars cast, but I haven’t decided on that yet. I’ll see how things turn out at the next RPM meet I attend this spring, and whether the people you’re referencing get their models ready to sell any time soon.



Again, thanks for the feedback.



Larry Sexton

Crystal River, FL

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2014 10:05 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Early, but definitely steam era







--- In STMFC@..., <abrown@...> wrote:

A few published photos of the XMu class, showing end and/or roof::

RDG 101070, 101400: RP CYC 21 pp80-81
RDG 101070 (again): RMC 1/95 p76 and MM 2/87 p41
RDG 101023: Bossler, "RDG Color Guide", p 68
RDG 101199: MM 2/86 p41 and RMJ 8/04 p40
RDG 101517: Kline and Culotta, "PFCF" p41
RDG 101572: Griffin, "SAL" p35 (partial end shot behind tender of 2-8-2)
RDG 102123: Henderson, "Classic Freight Cars vol 1", p 16
RDG 102751: Culotta, "FCRM 1", p 129 (shows roof from shallow angle)

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.




---In STMFC@..., <SSEXTON9@> wrote:

Does anyone have a photo of any Reading boxcar in series 101000-102999 they’d be willing to provide me a scan. I’m trying to create a model of one these cars which, at first look, appear to be similar to a PRR x-29 boxcar. Except for the 6” difference in height. There may be other differences as well that I haven’t spotted yet. I have a side shot but no ¾ or end view. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

Larry Sexton
Crystal River, FL

These cars are being reviewed by a major manufacturer of HO scale equipment now. I'm not at liberty to state who but it is NOT NERS.

Cordially, Don Valentine





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Not really odd at all. Paint with bright pigments traditionally costs more, no reason to use it on parts of the car the public doesn't see. In reality, that's the rational for only painting the sides of reefers yellow.

Dennis

On Jan 22, 2014, at 6:34 AM, Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

Folks,

--- In STMFC@..., <abrown@...> wrote:

A few published photos of the XMu class, showing end and/or roof::

RDG 101070, 101400: RP CYC 21 pp80-81
RDG 101070 (again): RMC 1/95 p76 and MM 2/87 p41
RDG 101023: Bossler, "RDG Color Guide", p 68
RDG 101199: MM 2/86 p41 and RMJ 8/04 p40
RDG 101517: Kline and Culotta, "PFCF" p41
RDG 101572: Griffin, "SAL" p35 (partial end shot behind tender of 2-8-2)
RDG 102123: Henderson, "Classic Freight Cars vol 1", p 16
RDG 102751: Culotta, "FCRM 1", p 129 (shows roof from shallow angle)

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.




---In STMFC@..., <SSEXTON9@> wrote:

Does anyone have a photo of any Reading boxcar in series 101000-102999 they’d be willing to provide me a scan. I’m trying to create a model of one these cars which, at first look, appear to be similar to a PRR x-29 boxcar. Except for the 6� difference in height. There may be other differences as well that I haven’t spotted yet. I have a side shot but no ¾ or end view. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

Larry Sexton
Crystal River, FL

These cars are being reviewed by a major manufacturer of HO scale equipment now. I'm not at liberty to state who but it is NOT NERS.

Cordially, Don Valentine

Can someone tell what color the roof should be on this horizontal seamed steel reefer?
Black or red?
Thanks

--
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com

Folks,

I know it's a shot in the dark ... but I'm trying to find a picture of the lone ex-Pennsy class F25 well car that was repainted Deepwater Green after the Penn Central merger. The road number was PC 768164. I am going to check with Bob's Photos this weekend in Springfield, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask here. If anyone has a photo of the car or knows of where I can find one, please email me directly. Thanks.

--
bb

HO scale models from the collection of the late Kevin Endriss, RPI Class of 1978 and life member of the Rensselaer Model Railroad Society, are being offered by Don Oltmann on behalf of his wife.

Please contact OFF LIST Don Oltmann at donoltmann "at" yahoo "dot" com or myself at b.hom "at" att "dot" net for a copy of the list, which has over 1,400 models across the spectrum from brass to resin to shake the box kits.

Thank you for your consideration.


Ben Hom

A few published photos of the XMu class, showing end and/or roof::

RDG 101070, 101400: RP CYC 21 pp80-81
RDG 101070 (again): RMC 1/95 p76 and MM 2/87 p41
RDG 101023: Bossler, "RDG Color Guide", p 68
RDG 101199: MM 2/86 p41 and RMJ 8/04 p40
RDG 101517: Kline and Culotta, "PFCF" p41
RDG 101572: Griffin, "SAL" p35 (partial end shot behind tender of 2-8-2)
RDG 102123: Henderson, "Classic Freight Cars vol 1", p 16
RDG 102751: Culotta, "FCRM 1", p 129 (shows roof from shallow angle)

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

Who printed the decals and on whose paper? Film really as there are thinner films and thicker films. Then the actual printed images may be thick or thin.

For years I've heard that Walther's declas were rpinted on ratehr thick paper and that was likely true as they go way back in time when thin film wasn't. That said Walther's doesn't print decals nowadays but they sell Walther's paper. From what I have seen it appears about the same thickness as Microscale or Bare Metal Foil (my favorite) paper. Tango Papa still has the thinnest film from what I understand albeit I haven't actually used it.

Alps printed decals also get a bad rap for being too thick in the ink department. That may be true depending on how the decal was printed. Properly printed Alps decals using spot colors may be no thinner than screen printed albeit there are variables. Also it is possible to trade off opaqueness for thinness. I have seen many Microscale decal stripes that do a poor job of hiding the color split that is often below the decal and I have printed replacements with my Alps printers that covered well and were no more difficult to apply. So much depends on the what the color is made of. Some are paints and then the are dyes. Alps uses thermo wax ribbons. They all have different characteristics and different degrees of opaqueness. With an Alps one can apply a layer of white undercoat that really increases opaqueness. If the decal will be applied over a solid color background I suggest one layer of white. If it will be covering two or more colors than two white layers will be needed. And, if one color is a light shade and the other a dark shade it is possible three layer may be needed to totally hide the color variation. But each layer makes for a stiffer decal. I have seldom used more than two white layers and have had good results.

For riveted surfaces it is generally necessary to "blot" the decals once they have been positioned with soft tissue, either facial tissue or the stuff used for the other end. And don't be shy with the blotting, the idea is to push the decal down around the rivets. DO NOT APPLY ANY SETTING SOLUTION WHEN DOING THIS! After the decal is well blotted, then apply the solution. I do not recommend using the "set the decal in a pool of solution" method of decaling on rivets. In fact I never use that method at all having very poor luck with it. That said a lot of people use it very successfully so play with it.

John Hagen



There a photo of a somewhat similar box car, Reading class XMt, on the Reading Modeler web site.

http://www.readingmodeler.com/index.php/articles/99-rolling-stock-reference-files/freight/214-reading-company-boxcars

Regards,

Bob Witt

Bill...

Go to:

http://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails

Jack Burgess

<As I am sure as with many on this list I am captivated by the Emil
<Albrecht photo collection.
<One of our list members has been very gracious in helping me get some
<prints from these photos.
<Everytime I turn around there is another segment of these photos. I do
<not want to burden my benefactor but would like to know how to access
<the complest collection.
<
<Thanks for any help.
<
<Bill Pardie

Dave,

As I am sure as with many on this list I am captivated by the Emil Albrecht photo collection.
One of our list members has been very gracious in helping me get some prints from these photos.
Everytime I turn around there is another segment of these photos. I do not want to burden
my benefactor but would like to know how to access the complest collection.

Thanks for any help.

Bill Pardie

FOR SALE: I have the following HO Scale Resin kits For Sale, Clearing out some of the duplicate kits I have. All New in the Box and Complete with All Parts, Less Trucks & Couplers.

 

F&C 7025 B&O M15K One Piece Body, Wagon top Box car, Some parts neatly pre-trimed,  Decals were cut ( I needed a re weigh date and Capcity decal for another B&O model) But the Decals are Now complete, I replaced the used Re-Weigh date and Capacity decal.$20.00

 

F&C 5093 NEW HAVEN 36’ Rebuilt Boxcar with Youngstown Door and Dreadnaught Ends, One Piece Body. I am Including Both the Standard and Bill Board Lettering Decals from Kit 5095. $22.00

 

F&C 6005 B&M XM-1 with Reverse Creco Door, Flat Kit.  $17.00

 

Westerfield 7502 PRR XL Camp/MOW Material car.

 Original Crossville TN issue. $30.00

 

$3.50 Shipping Each, $5.00 for Two Kits, $7.00 for Three or More.

 

Please Contact me Off List:  Eric Thur, Yardley PA

erict1361@...