Date   

Re: Early, but definitely steam era

Larry Sexton
 

Don,



Thanks for the input. You say a major manufacturer of HO scale equipment is reviewing these cars now. I’m glad to hear that. However, I’ve got my sides and underframe made and am working on the ends. About all I need after that to complete this freightcar model is a good photo of the roof that clearly shows the roof detail and I can get to work on the roof masters. There has even been some discussion on whether I’d be interested in having the cars cast, but I haven’t decided on that yet. I’ll see how things turn out at the next RPM meet I attend this spring, and whether the people you’re referencing get their models ready to sell any time soon.



Again, thanks for the feedback.



Larry Sexton

Crystal River, FL

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2014 10:05 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Early, but definitely steam era







--- In STMFC@..., <abrown@...> wrote:

A few published photos of the XMu class, showing end and/or roof::

RDG 101070, 101400: RP CYC 21 pp80-81
RDG 101070 (again): RMC 1/95 p76 and MM 2/87 p41
RDG 101023: Bossler, "RDG Color Guide", p 68
RDG 101199: MM 2/86 p41 and RMJ 8/04 p40
RDG 101517: Kline and Culotta, "PFCF" p41
RDG 101572: Griffin, "SAL" p35 (partial end shot behind tender of 2-8-2)
RDG 102123: Henderson, "Classic Freight Cars vol 1", p 16
RDG 102751: Culotta, "FCRM 1", p 129 (shows roof from shallow angle)

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.




---In STMFC@..., <SSEXTON9@> wrote:

Does anyone have a photo of any Reading boxcar in series 101000-102999 they’d be willing to provide me a scan. I’m trying to create a model of one these cars which, at first look, appear to be similar to a PRR x-29 boxcar. Except for the 6” difference in height. There may be other differences as well that I haven’t spotted yet. I have a side shot but no ¾ or end view. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

Larry Sexton
Crystal River, FL
These cars are being reviewed by a major manufacturer of HO scale equipment now. I'm not at liberty to state who but it is NOT NERS.

Cordially, Don Valentine





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Swift 40" steel reefer roof color

Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Fair enough
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 1/22/2014 1:36 PM, destorzek@... wrote:

 

Not really odd at all. Paint with bright pigments traditionally costs more, no reason to use it on parts of the car the public doesn't see. In reality, that's the rational for only painting the sides of reefers yellow.

Dennis

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Re: Swift 40" steel reefer roof color

destorzek@...
 

Not really odd at all. Paint with bright pigments traditionally costs more, no reason to use it on parts of the car the public doesn't see. In reality, that's the rational for only painting the sides of reefers yellow.

Dennis


Re: Swift 40" steel reefer roof color

Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Really!? How odd.
Thanks Richard.
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 22/01/2014 12:26 PM, Richard Hendrickson wrote:

�

On Jan 22, 2014, at 6:34 AM, Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:


Can someone tell what color the roof should be on this horizontal seamed�
steel reefer?
Black or red?

Mineral red, Pierre (not the same red as the sides and ends). �I have photo documentation I�ll send you off-list.

Richard Hendrickson


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3681/7024 - Release Date: 01/22/14



Re: Swift 40" steel reefer roof color

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Jan 22, 2014, at 6:34 AM, Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

Can someone tell what color the roof should be on this horizontal seamed 
steel reefer?
Black or red?

Mineral red, Pierre (not the same red as the sides and ends).  I have photo documentation I’ll send you off-list.

Richard Hendrickson



HO N&W H2, H3 hoppers

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

Has anyone made an attempt at backdating the Broadway Limited N&W H2A hopper to the earlier H2 and H3 hoppers?   

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."



Re: Early, but definitely steam era

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., <abrown@...> wrote:

A few published photos of the XMu class, showing end and/or roof::

RDG 101070, 101400: RP CYC 21 pp80-81
RDG 101070 (again): RMC 1/95 p76 and MM 2/87 p41
RDG 101023: Bossler, "RDG Color Guide", p 68
RDG 101199: MM 2/86 p41 and RMJ 8/04 p40
RDG 101517: Kline and Culotta, "PFCF" p41
RDG 101572: Griffin, "SAL" p35 (partial end shot behind tender of 2-8-2)
RDG 102123: Henderson, "Classic Freight Cars vol 1", p 16
RDG 102751: Culotta, "FCRM 1", p 129 (shows roof from shallow angle)

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.




---In STMFC@..., <SSEXTON9@> wrote:

Does anyone have a photo of any Reading boxcar in series 101000-102999 they’d be willing to provide me a scan. I’m trying to create a model of one these cars which, at first look, appear to be similar to a PRR x-29 boxcar. Except for the 6� difference in height. There may be other differences as well that I haven’t spotted yet. I have a side shot but no ¾ or end view. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

Larry Sexton
Crystal River, FL

These cars are being reviewed by a major manufacturer of HO scale equipment now. I'm not at liberty to state who but it is NOT NERS.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Swift 40" steel reefer roof color

Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Can someone tell what color the roof should be on this horizontal seamed steel reefer?
Black or red?
Thanks

--
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com


Need pic of PC 768164 (ex PRR class F25) well car

Bryan Busséy
 

Folks,

I know it's a shot in the dark ... but I'm trying to find a picture of the lone ex-Pennsy class F25 well car that was repainted Deepwater Green after the Penn Central merger. The road number was PC 768164. I am going to check with Bob's Photos this weekend in Springfield, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask here. If anyone has a photo of the car or knows of where I can find one, please email me directly. Thanks.

--
bb


FS: Kevin Endriss Estate

Benjamin Hom
 

HO scale models from the collection of the late Kevin Endriss, RPI Class of 1978 and life member of the Rensselaer Model Railroad Society, are being offered by Don Oltmann on behalf of his wife.

Please contact OFF LIST Don Oltmann at donoltmann "at" yahoo "dot" com or myself at b.hom "at" att "dot" net for a copy of the list, which has over 1,400 models across the spectrum from brass to resin to shake the box kits.

Thank you for your consideration.


Ben Hom


Re: Early, but definitely steam era

al_brown03
 

A few published photos of the XMu class, showing end and/or roof::

RDG 101070, 101400: RP CYC 21 pp80-81
RDG 101070 (again): RMC 1/95 p76 and MM 2/87 p41
RDG 101023: Bossler, "RDG Color Guide", p 68
RDG 101199: MM 2/86 p41 and RMJ 8/04 p40
RDG 101517: Kline and Culotta, "PFCF" p41
RDG 101572: Griffin, "SAL" p35 (partial end shot behind tender of 2-8-2)
RDG 102123: Henderson, "Classic Freight Cars vol 1", p 16
RDG 102751: Culotta, "FCRM 1", p 129 (shows roof from shallow angle)

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.



---In STMFC@..., <SSEXTON9@...> wrote:

Does anyone have a photo of any Reading boxcar in series 101000-102999 they’d be willing to provide me a scan. I’m trying to create a model of one these cars which, at first look, appear to be similar to a PRR x-29 boxcar. Except for the 6” difference in height. There may be other differences as well that I haven’t spotted yet. I have a side shot but no ¾ or end view. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

 

Larry Sexton

Crystal River, FL  

 


Re: Solvaset

 

I once purchased a 1936 Walthers catalog at a swap meet.  In it was a sample decal.  I tested it and it was still good.  Of course the film was about a foot thick........ – Al Westerfield
 

From: John H
Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 6:36 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Solvaset
 
 

Who printed the decals and on whose paper? Film really as there are thinner films and thicker films. Then the actual printed images may be thick or thin.

For years I've heard that Walther's declas were rpinted on ratehr thick paper and that was likely true as they go way back in time when thin film wasn't. That said Walther's doesn't print decals nowadays but they sell Walther's paper. From what I have seen it appears about the same thickness as Microscale or Bare Metal Foil (my favorite) paper. Tango Papa still has the thinnest film from what I understand albeit I haven't actually used it.

Alps printed decals also get a bad rap for being too thick in the ink department. That may be true depending on how the decal was printed. Properly printed Alps decals using spot colors may be no thinner than screen printed albeit there are variables. Also it is possible to trade off opaqueness for thinness. I have seen many Microscale decal stripes that do a poor job of hiding the color split that is often below the decal and I have printed replacements with my Alps printers that covered well and were no more difficult to apply. So much depends on the what the color is made of. Some are paints and then the are dyes. Alps uses thermo wax ribbons. They all have different characteristics and different degrees of opaqueness. With an Alps one can apply a layer of white undercoat that really increases opaqueness. If the decal will be applied over a solid color background I suggest one layer of white. If it will be covering two or more colors than two white layers will be needed. A nd, if one color is a light shade and the other a dark shade it is possible three layer may be needed to totally hide the color variation. But each layer makes for a stiffer decal. I have seldom used more than two white layers and have had good results.

For riveted surfaces it is generally necessary to "blot" the decals once they have been positioned with soft tissue, either facial tissue or the stuff used for the other end. And don't be shy with the blotting, the idea is to push the decal down around the rivets. DO NOT APPLY ANY SETTING SOLUTION WHEN DOING THIS! After the decal is well blotted, then apply the solution. I do not recommend using the "set the decal in a pool of solution" method of decaling on rivets. In fact I never use that method at all having very poor luck with it. That said a lot of people use it very successfully so play with it.

John Hagen

>


(No subject)

Larry Sexton
 

Can anyone provide me with a dealer’s contact info that is known to be selling the new Rapido reefer car. Looking for the painted  undecorated cars (121098). Please respond off-line. Thanks much.

 

Larry Sexton

 

_,_._,___


Re: Solvaset

John H <sprinthag@...>
 

Who printed the decals and on whose paper? Film really as there are thinner films and thicker films. Then the actual printed images may be thick or thin.

For years I've heard that Walther's declas were rpinted on ratehr thick paper and that was likely true as they go way back in time when thin film wasn't. That said Walther's doesn't print decals nowadays but they sell Walther's paper. From what I have seen it appears about the same thickness as Microscale or Bare Metal Foil (my favorite) paper. Tango Papa still has the thinnest film from what I understand albeit I haven't actually used it.

Alps printed decals also get a bad rap for being too thick in the ink department. That may be true depending on how the decal was printed. Properly printed Alps decals using spot colors may be no thinner than screen printed albeit there are variables. Also it is possible to trade off opaqueness for thinness. I have seen many Microscale decal stripes that do a poor job of hiding the color split that is often below the decal and I have printed replacements with my Alps printers that covered well and were no more difficult to apply. So much depends on the what the color is made of. Some are paints and then the are dyes. Alps uses thermo wax ribbons. They all have different characteristics and different degrees of opaqueness. With an Alps one can apply a layer of white undercoat that really increases opaqueness. If the decal will be applied over a solid color background I suggest one layer of white. If it will be covering two or more colors than two white layers will be needed. And, if one color is a light shade and the other a dark shade it is possible three layer may be needed to totally hide the color variation. But each layer makes for a stiffer decal. I have seldom used more than two white layers and have had good results.

For riveted surfaces it is generally necessary to "blot" the decals once they have been positioned with soft tissue, either facial tissue or the stuff used for the other end. And don't be shy with the blotting, the idea is to push the decal down around the rivets. DO NOT APPLY ANY SETTING SOLUTION WHEN DOING THIS! After the decal is well blotted, then apply the solution. I do not recommend using the "set the decal in a pool of solution" method of decaling on rivets. In fact I never use that method at all having very poor luck with it. That said a lot of people use it very successfully so play with it.

John Hagen

--- In STMFC@..., <destorzek@...> wrote:

IF it's last years shake 'n take car, the grooves are some of the finest in HO scale, .005" wide and .0025" deep... hardly the Grand Canyon. And, unlike dealing with the old Northeastern scribed wood of yesteryear, where the grooves were so deep that the cut decal is lost in the shadow, these grooves are shallow enough that the background carside color will show through the slits.

Sounds like the decals came from the Bulletproof Decal Co.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Reading boxcar series 101000-102999

Eric Neubauer <eaneubauer@...>
 


Yes, it is similar. However, watch out for class XMt. RDG 100000-100499 had Murphy ends. I have to admit that had me confused for a while.
 
Eric N.
 

There a photo of a somewhat similar box car, Reading class XMt, on the Reading Modeler web site.

http://www.readingmodeler.com/index.php/articles/99-rolling-stock-reference-files/freight/214-reading-company-boxcars

Regards,

Bob Witt


Re: Reading boxcar series 101000-102999

rwitt_2000
 

There a photo of a somewhat similar box car, Reading class XMt, on the Reading Modeler web site.

http://www.readingmodeler.com/index.php/articles/99-rolling-stock-reference-files/freight/214-reading-company-boxcars

Regards,

Bob Witt


Re: Emil Albrecht Photos

Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

Bill...

Go to:

http://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails

Jack Burgess

<As I am sure as with many on this list I am captivated by the Emil
<Albrecht photo collection.
<One of our list members has been very gracious in helping me get some
<prints from these photos.
<Everytime I turn around there is another segment of these photos. I do
<not want to burden my benefactor but would like to know how to access
<the complest collection.
<
<Thanks for any help.
<
<Bill Pardie


Re: More Albrecht photos

Bruce Smith
 

Dave,

I've been ruminating on this email for a few days... and here are my thoughts.

1) Weather everything.  Even a brand new car gets a little soot on the roof and road grime on the trucks and underbody.
2) "Fleet" weathering approaches depend on the car type, but generate large numbers of cars quickly
tank cars - lighten black cars and darken light cars with an overall spray grimy black or tarnished black (fades lettering too) - then add car specific levels of dome region weathering, journal oil stripes etc...
flat cars - lightly weathered sides with an overspray of grunge, weather wood and steel decks appropriately.
boxcars - soot on roof, grunge on trucks (mix up colors from grey (ballast) to mud to redder dirt). Dirt on sides.
hoppers - coal dust inside and out, road grime on trucks.
3) Vary the heaviness of the fleet weathering for fleet variety
4) Vary the material, technique and color of the fleet weathering - sometimes I do a roof with black chalk, other times with spray.  Sometime I uses oversprays on a car side, sometimes chalk, sometimes washes that are then removed with a cotton swab. Don't do everything the same.
5) Weather say 5-10% with signature weathering, based on a photograph.  Rust spots, destroyed paint etc.
6) Think about the amount  and type of weathering versus the car's history.  What road is it from?  Georgia?  Add some region specific weathering to the trucks and underside.
7) A car's age may not be the biggest clue to its weathering.  A 10 year old car may jut have been repainted, while a 5 year old car may have 5 years of very tough wear and tear.  Rationalize the weathering.  "This 20 year old car has the new paint scheme so it must have been repainted within 2 years whereas its mate has the old scheme... and should be much dirtier."
8) Have fun!

Regards
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Jan 19, 2014, at 12:52 AM, <devans1@...>
 <devans1@...> wrote:

Richard,


I missed that era, but want to model it, and I believe the Jack Delano photos, to include the one at the banner for this group, are some of the best to use as a weathering reference for WWII. They cover a LOT of cars, and some photos are outside the Chicago area - I think all of the cars in the Belan, NM photo would be considered "dead flat", even in bright sun with glare present.

The yard photos in the Chicago area provide a very large sample set of cars that cover most roads - and to me the striking thing in those photos is the 1 out of 50 to 1 out of 100 fresh paint jobs - those cars really pop out, something I think should be modeled, although many might view such cars as "you forgot to weather one..."

The lesson for me is the modest amount of variability for each car - diagonal braces and some vertical steel seams do show some highlighting, but each car has a more uniform look than one of those - bright streak here - big rust spot there weathering jobs. Roofs are a different matter. one challenge is the variation in individual boards on wood sheathing for some box cars - that will be tough to capture.

Beside fresh paint jobs popping out of large collections of cars, I think the biggest variability I have observed is in some of Delano's ore dock pictures - specifically the insides of hoppers. Plus there are hoppers (not the black ones) that have darkened areas on the exterior from attempts to thaw the loads with heat sources - seems to "cook" the pigments of the era.

Bruce S. and I discussed this at CB, and it appears the colors in Delano's photos, in medium to bright natural light on Kodachrome, are probably pretty accurate - there are some cabooses being repainted in a few photos that will convince you there is plenty of red, and messing with the colors on the ore boat photos will make a mess of the life-saver rings and ships running lights. I have tried to find some "reasonable" color adjustments of the Delano photos, and have never been successful. For WWII FC colors, I think the Delano photos may be the "gold standard".

And having the hi-res versions in the LOC is a big bonus.

Your thoughts? I would like to come up with a fleet encompassing weathering plan before actually weathering my freight car fleet. I am concerned that different weathering styles on one WWII layout will look bad.

Dave Evans


Emil Albrecht Photos

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

As I am sure as with many on this list I am captivated by the Emil Albrecht photo collection.
One of our list members has been very gracious in helping me get some prints from these photos.
Everytime I turn around there is another segment of these photos. I do not want to burden
my benefactor but would like to know how to access the complest collection.

Thanks for any help.

Bill Pardie


For Sale HO Resin Kits: Funaro & Camerlengo, Westerfield

erict1361@...
 

FOR SALE: I have the following HO Scale Resin kits For Sale, Clearing out some of the duplicate kits I have. All New in the Box and Complete with All Parts, Less Trucks & Couplers.


 

F&C 7025 B&O M15K One Piece Body, Wagon top Box car, Some parts neatly pre-trimed,  Decals were cut ( I needed a re weigh date and Capcity decal for another B&O model) But the Decals are Now complete, I replaced the used Re-Weigh date and Capacity decal.$20.00

 

F&C 5093 NEW HAVEN 36’ Rebuilt Boxcar with Youngstown Door and Dreadnaught Ends, One Piece Body. I am Including Both the Standard and Bill Board Lettering Decals from Kit 5095. $22.00

 

F&C 6005 B&M XM-1 with Reverse Creco Door, Flat Kit.  $17.00

 

Westerfield 7502 PRR XL Camp/MOW Material car.

 Original Crossville TN issue. $30.00

 

$3.50 Shipping Each, $5.00 for Two Kits, $7.00 for Three or More.

 

Please Contact me Off List:  Eric Thur, Yardley PA

erict1361@...

73201 - 73220 of 194677