Date   

Re: Central Valley trucks

Tony Thompson
 

JP Barger wrote:

 
I have a heck of a lot of these trucks which I use on models I have constructed because I have religiously harvested them from used assembled models and kits I have purchased over fifty years. I just install fitted Reboxx wheelsets to minimize friction, and improve operation and appearance. Today, the CV trucks are not impossible to find as they show up on models in collections just as they did earlier. You will find them at train shows where HO cars are laid out on the tables in great quantities. I sometimes buy models in conditions from pleasantly good to ridiculously bad just to get the CV trucks. All it takes is to scan through dozens and dozens of cars, not forgetting to look carefully at the trucks. And the other eye on the price of the car and the trucks.

     Oh, thanks, JP! You just drove up the cost of those poor old models which happen to have CV trucks. People used to not notice.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Central Valley trucks

JP Barger
 

On this list a week or so ago, members (among them, Denny Anspach) were discussing some of the history and features of the Central Valley freight trucks. Availability also was mentioned, prompting this email.

 

I also went through the quality disappointment when ownership was transferred after the George Hook period. I visited George's shop in the Valley way back in the 1960's, witnessing the epoxy insulation method. One "secret" in order to minimize runout was rotating the wheels on the axles to distribute the epoxy evenly before it set up.

 

I have a heck of a lot of these trucks which I use on models I have constructed because I have religiously harvested them from used assembled models and kits I have purchased over fifty years. I just install fitted Reboxx wheelsets to minimize friction, and improve operation and appearance. Today, the CV trucks are not impossible to find as they show up on models in collections just as they did earlier. You will find them at train shows where HO cars are laid out on the tables in great quantities. I sometimes buy models in conditions from pleasantly good to ridiculously bad just to get the CV trucks. All it takes is to scan through dozens and dozens of cars, not forgetting to look carefully at the trucks. And the other eye on the price of the car and the trucks.

 

Have fun!   JP


Q'Craft caboose kits

ed_mines
 

 Since some of you  have given up on wood car kits, does anyone have an Ambroid/Q'Craft HO scale caboose kits in your collection of kits never to be built that you'd be willing sell for a moderate price? Erie in particular.

 

Please contact me off list.

 

Ed Mines

ed_mines@...


Re: Ambroid cars kept in the freezer

Pierre Oliver
 

Or they're just emerging from this past winter in Canada. Had the furnace on last night it was so cold.
Waiting for the jail cell door to close
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 06/06/2014 3:38 PM, ed_mines@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

 There are some built up Ambroid cars on ebay that are so white it looks like they wsere kept in the freezer.

 

Ed Mines



Ambroid cars kept in the freezer

ed_mines
 

 There are some built up Ambroid cars on ebay that are so white it looks like they wsere kept in the freezer.

 

Ed Mines


Re: CNJ Box Car Red?

ed_mines
 

How about an update on the RPC freight car color chart using the new fangled paints now available?

 

Ed Mines


Re: alcohol, dullcote & decals

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Ed,

My default flat finish is Model Masters Acrylic Flat. It was a little less expensive than the Polyscale. I also have been testing  Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium. Both work well as a flat finish base and final overcoat (if needed) for PanPastels.  I have also  with Blue Label Artist Flat Fixative but got mixed results. This was possibly due to spraying in a cold damp basement this winter. What I am trying to find is an economical alternative to hobby brands.

 

Rob Manley

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2014 1:24 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] alcohol, dullcote & decals

 

 

One little crack and the alcohol can wick under and eat the decal. Solvoset is  diluted isopropanol.

 

I've had some bad experiences with thin film decals.

 

Is dullcote the current standard for flat finishes? Anyone use anything else?

 

Ed Mines


Re: X29 ends - PMM

Benjamin Hom
 

Rob Kirkham wrote:
"I think the interesting bit to me is that I had not heard of James Lane’s articles, nor those of Gary Rausch and Bob Johnson or Amerine until this discussion in this list. Each of those was published in a journal that was unknown to me back in the 1970s. I spent a few years there colleting back issue of MR and RMC, but that still didn’t give me awareness of other periodicals. In fact, I’m not sure when I first became aware of historical societies with publications – but it would have been in the 1980s.
 
It makes me think just how much easier it is to discover these things today."
 
This illustrates how difficult it was at first for prototype modeling to get traction - the major magazines at the time wouldn't touch this stuff during this era of "Olde Frothingslosh", so it fell to alternate venues to break the ice - minor magazines such as Protoype Modeler and its predecessors (e.g., Western Prototype Modeler, Santa Fe Modeler), historical society publications, and in the case of one extensive Jack Amerine treatise on the AAR boxcar design, a photocopied journal called something to the effect of "Modeler and Gaming History.  Credit definitely is due to the editorial staff at Railroad Model Craftsman in the mid-1970s, who took a chance with material such as Dennis Storzek's boxcar improvement article, the early NEB&W articles, and the Protofile series on modeling specific cars and locomotives.  This did a lot to give this thing called prototype modeling mainstream exposure.
 
 
Ben Hom


Re: Influences

Andy Sperandeo
 

I'll happily second Tony Thompson's comments about John Allen. He was a superior modeler, and proved more than once that when he put his mind to winning contest prizes he could walk off with the top awards. He was also better versed in prototype railroading than he's sometimes given credit for – for one thing, he saw and lived through a lot of railroading that we now have to study as history.

So long,

Andy 



Re: Painting HO Scale Brass

Pierre Oliver
 

I had been lead to believe that baking paint like Scalecoat, would actually improve the adhesion of the paint to brass.
I know from experience that baked on lacquer and enamel paint resists scratching better.
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 6/6/2014 2:40 PM, 'Bruce F. Smith' smithbf@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

Matt,


Baking is only appropriate for enamel based paint.  There is a school of thought that says that it causes the paint to "cure" or polymerize, which may well be true.  Never ever bake plastic or any metal that might melt (like some weights) and do not bake acrylic paints.  Baking an enamel paint job will allow you to move on to the next application more rapidly.

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

On Jun 6, 2014, at 12:36 PM, Matt Goodman goodman312@... [STMFC] wrote:



Inexperience question here. 

My understanding regarding backing is that it is intended to drive off the volatiles in the freshly applied paint. Is this correct?  Also, I believe I read somewhere that letting a freshly painted model sit for several days (or longer) would accomplish the same thing - only (obviously) slower...

Good thread. 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

Sent from my mobile

On May 27, 2014, at 10:02 PM, "'Bruce F. Smith' smithbf@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

Paul,

Skip the model "primer" because most of them are just plain paint. For dark colors, I paint with a Model Master flat black spray bomb and then with whatever I want to over that. For colors that I don't want a black layer under, I simply apply Scalecoat 1.  I don't bake - there is no need and too much risk for my taste. 

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Re: Painting HO Scale Brass

Bruce Smith
 

Matt,

Baking is only appropriate for enamel based paint.  There is a school of thought that says that it causes the paint to "cure" or polymerize, which may well be true.  Never ever bake plastic or any metal that might melt (like some weights) and do not bake acrylic paints.  Baking an enamel paint job will allow you to move on to the next application more rapidly.

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

On Jun 6, 2014, at 12:36 PM, Matt Goodman goodman312@... [STMFC] wrote:



Inexperience question here. 

My understanding regarding backing is that it is intended to drive off the volatiles in the freshly applied paint. Is this correct?  Also, I believe I read somewhere that letting a freshly painted model sit for several days (or longer) would accomplish the same thing - only (obviously) slower...

Good thread. 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

Sent from my mobile

On May 27, 2014, at 10:02 PM, "'Bruce F. Smith' smithbf@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

Paul,

Skip the model "primer" because most of them are just plain paint. For dark colors, I paint with a Model Master flat black spray bomb and then with whatever I want to over that. For colors that I don't want a black layer under, I simply apply Scalecoat 1.  I don't bake - there is no need and too much risk for my taste. 

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Re: Shorpy MDT Shops Photo

Charles Hladik
 

And those couplers sure look like KD #4's.
Chuck Hladik
 
In a message dated 6/6/2014 10:44:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:

 

Bob Chaparro wrote:
"Here is a link to a circa 1904 photo of the Merchants Despatch Transportation Company shops in Despatch (present-day East Rochester), New York. 
 
http://www.shorpy.com/node/8253?size=_original#caption
 
Click on the photo to enlarge it.  The amount of detail in the way of freight car parts is amazing."
 
Note that repair parts are organized and sorted for easy retrieval.  Even if you give allowances for a posed photo, this makes sense if your business is repairing cars in a timely manner, unlike the Allen/Sellios-inspired "piles of crap" approach model railroaders fall in love with.
 
Ben Hom


Re: Influences

Benjamin Hom
 

Dave Nelson wrote:
"Someone mentioned John Allen.  I don’t think John Allen did much of anything to advance our groups specific interests and many of his accolades certainly skewed things in the wrong direction. IMO RPM could be said to be a reactionary movement against Allen’s accolades.
 
That said Allen does deserve some credit, both as an inspiration of what to do – 3d details, some weathering, proper lighting… and what not to do – the allegorical instead of the actual."
 
A large part of this issue is how the press and NMRA hierarchy spin the work of the hobby's pioneers.  The superficial is emphasized over the hidden sophistication of the layout.  Dave mentioned some of John Allen's true innovations; another example is Frank Ellison's Delta Lines.  His concept of "the layout as a stage and the trains actors" and emphasis on operations vs. running trains aimlessly is interpreted as "he left pilot and trailing trucks off of a balky locomotive to keep trains running" (words to that effect from John Page IIRC).  You hear this from the Toy Train Bozo crowd a lot - folks who can't even to begin grasping the underlying concepts of why being able to run trains was important to Ellison.
 
You can argue that this is what modelers want, but the problem for years was that most modelers never knew that there was a contrasting viewpoint.  Sadly, this is still the case with many today.
 
 
Ben Hom


Re: Influences

Tony Thompson
 

Someone mentioned John Allen.  I don’t think John Allen did much of anything to advance our groups specific interests and many of his accolades certainly skewed things in the wrong direction. IMO RPM could be said to be a reactionary movement against Allen’s accolades.

 That said Allen does deserve some credit, both as an inspiration of what to do – 3d details, some weathering, proper lighting… and what not to do – the allegorical instead of the actual.

      No question there were cartoonish elements to Allen's layout. But as Dave says, he did weathering when few people did; added details and figures to scenes when hardly anyone did; operated trains in a largely prototypical manner when that was rare; and took photos which were astonishing in their day. I think he made a huge contribution to more detailed modeling and much more complete scenery, even though there have been folks every since who responded to the cartoon and not to the underlying reality. And if you think he wasn't that good a modeler, go back and look at the "Trackside Photos" in Model Railroader in Allen's day, and think again.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: Painting HO Scale Brass

Tom Vanwormer
 

Matt,
Are you asking about "Baking" brass?  Yes at less than 150 F and I have heard the idea of heating up to 150 and turning the heat off.
Tom VanWormer
Monument CO

Matt Goodman goodman312@... [STMFC] wrote:

 
Inexperience question here. 

My understanding regarding backing is that it is intended to drive off the volatiles in the freshly applied paint. Is this correct?  Also, I believe I read somewhere that letting a freshly painted model sit for several days (or longer) would accomplish the same thing - only (obviously) slower...

Good thread. 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

Sent from my mobile

On May 27, 2014, at 10:02 PM, "'Bruce F. Smith' smithbf@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

Paul,

Skip the model "primer" because most of them are just plain paint. For dark colors, I paint with a Model Master flat black spray bomb and then with whatever I want to over that. For colors that I don't want a black layer under, I simply apply Scalecoat 1.  I don't bake - there is no need and too much risk for my taste. 

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:25 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Painting HO Scale Brass



I have an unpainted brass car that I've had for a few years and I'm getting around to painting it.

It's been quite a while since I painted a brass car. Wondering what are the best current methods?

In the past I have baked on a primer, then sparyed the final colors. There's always problems with paint adherence to handrails and corners / edges of parts.

I've tried "Blacken-It" on brass parts but it doesn't adhere "super-strongly". Of course blasting & cleaning are first required.

Thanks, Paul Hillman




Re: Painting HO Scale Brass

 

Inexperience question here. 

My understanding regarding backing is that it is intended to drive off the volatiles in the freshly applied paint. Is this correct?  Also, I believe I read somewhere that letting a freshly painted model sit for several days (or longer) would accomplish the same thing - only (obviously) slower...

Good thread. 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

Sent from my mobile

On May 27, 2014, at 10:02 PM, "'Bruce F. Smith' smithbf@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

Paul,

Skip the model "primer" because most of them are just plain paint. For dark colors, I paint with a Model Master flat black spray bomb and then with whatever I want to over that. For colors that I don't want a black layer under, I simply apply Scalecoat 1.  I don't bake - there is no need and too much risk for my taste. 

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:25 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Painting HO Scale Brass



I have an unpainted brass car that I've had for a few years and I'm getting around to painting it.

It's been quite a while since I painted a brass car. Wondering what are the best current methods?

In the past I have baked on a primer, then sparyed the final colors. There's always problems with paint adherence to handrails and corners / edges of parts.

I've tried "Blacken-It" on brass parts but it doesn't adhere "super-strongly". Of course blasting & cleaning are first required.

Thanks, Paul Hillman




Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Obsolete scrap on-line service gons (UNCLASSIFIED)

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE

Guys;

I love modeling cars that are right on the edge of retirement, since there were so many of them in my era. I also have cars that I modeled (mostly gons) with some defect, like missing floorboards, split sides and such, that I put into trains to see if people would spot them, bad order it, and set them out on a remote siding. I partially fill them with rubbish or scrap or yard trash, to simulate the ones parked all over the Pittsburgh area on forlorn sidings. They often stay there for extended periods, before I send someone to pull them out, and begin all over again.

I have a partially completed model, using the Red Caboose truss side gon with those laser cut wood inserts, that I am doing as a car which someone put hot steel in, and burned out one end. That one will be parked waiting a short haul to the scrapper. Even the lettering is burned off, so that will give someone fits trying to figure out whose car it is (heh heh heh)...

BTW, that PRR G31D Ben mentioned is in the PRR Passenger and Freight Color Guide 2! They never appeared in the ORER with the new IH/OH...

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 1:15 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [STMFC] Obsolete scrap on-line service gons



Tom Casey wrote:
"Instead, the 'piles of crap' could be an excuse to model a nearly condemned / obsolete truss-rod gon to accumulate a load ready to be sent to some on-line scrap yard. As a modeling exercise it would be a chance to build and display a static, hyper detailed gon that wouldn't be appropriate for a latter post war transition layout."

My favorite scrap load photo was of a PRR gon that had been hastily modified with sides from scrapped Class H21A hoppers, complete with whitelined numbers, piled full of scrap. Elden Gatwood showed a model of this car at a past PRRT&HS annual meeting. (I'll pull the reference to the photo later tonight if someone doesn't beat me to it.)


"What are rules for counting these types of cars listed in the ORER, once transferred permently to MOW service, they're off the list, right?"

Correct, once they're no longer in interchange service. A few railroads did list number series for work equipment in separate tables, but this wasn't required.


Ben Hom




Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE


Re: Influences

Dave Nelson
 

I would cite our own Richard Hendrickson as “influencer” #1 followed in short order by John Nehrich and the RPI Club.  Once hooked, all sorts of other, familiar names and sources crop up… no need to elaborate.

 

Someone mentioned John Allen.  I don’t think John Allen did much of anything to advance our groups specific interests and many of his accolades certainly skewed things in the wrong direction. IMO RPM could be said to be a reactionary movement against Allen’s accolades.

 

That said Allen does deserve some credit, both as an inspiration of what to do – 3d details, some weathering, proper lighting… and what not to do – the allegorical instead of the actual.

 

Dave Nelson


Re: Obsolete scrap on-line service gons

Benjamin Hom
 

Tom Casey wrote:
"Instead, the 'piles of crap' could be an excuse to model a nearly condemned / obsolete truss-rod gon to accumulate a load ready to be sent to some on-line scrap yard.  As a modeling exercise it would be a chance to build and display a static, hyper detailed gon that wouldn't be appropriate for a latter post war transition layout."
 
My favorite scrap load photo was of a PRR gon that had been hastily modified with sides from scrapped Class H21A hoppers, complete with whitelined numbers, piled full of scrap.  Elden Gatwood showed a model of this car at a past PRRT&HS annual meeting.  (I'll pull the reference to the photo later tonight if someone doesn't beat me to it.)
 
 
"What are rules for counting these types of cars listed in the ORER, once transferred permently to MOW service, they're off the list, right?"
 
Correct, once they're no longer in interchange service.  A few railroads did list number series for work equipment in separate tables, but this wasn't required.
 

Ben Hom


Re: Shorpy MDT Shops Photo

Michael Aufderheide
 

Are those brake shoes stacked up like firewood?

 

Mike Aufderheide

71781 - 71800 of 196875