Date   

longevity of truss-rod cabooses?

D. Scott Chatfield
 

Did any truss-rod underframe cabooses survive in service on Class One railroads until 1960? I seem to recall an ICC order about not shoving on wood underframe cabs after, what, 1940? But was there any ICC order mandating their retirement?

thanks
Scott Chatfield


Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype

Eric Neubauer <eaneubauer@...>
 

RDG had no 50' outside steel truss box cars. The only cars remotely similar were the USRA 40' cars.
 
Eric N.
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype

 

Rich Gibson wrote:

"The braces on the model form a Howe truss.

This is not the Northeastern SP model, as far as I can tell. It does not have a fishbelly underframe and the side bracing pattern is very different from the A-50-6. The instructions show no drawings of an SP car, only Reading, WM, NYC, PRR, D&H. N&W....all of which seem to be incorrect, at least for the numbers shown."

Definitely a Quality Craft model, and you're right about the schemes on the instruction sheet - they're all bogus.
http://www.hoseeker.net/qualitycraft/qualitycraftIobboxcarpg1.jpg
http://www.hoseeker.net/qualitycraft/qualitycraftIobboxcarpg2.jpg

I'm having difficulty finding prototypes with SS ends, so I'm skeptical regarding a prototype for this model. It appears to a their 40 ft MILW SS boxcar stretched to 50 ft.

See Richard Hendrickson's article in the July 1995 and July 1996 issues of Railmodel Journal for more information.
http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/443/32370/july-1995-page-16
http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/407/29808/july-1996-page-14

(Part of the first article and all of the second article's images are coming up - it looks like there's partial restoration of the Trainlife website.)

Ben Hom


Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype

Benjamin Hom
 

Rich Gibson wrote:



"The braces on the model form a Howe truss.

This is not the Northeastern SP model, as far as I can tell. It does not have a fishbelly underframe and the side bracing pattern is very different from the A-50-6. The instructions show no drawings of an SP car, only Reading, WM, NYC, PRR, D&H. N&W....all of which seem to be incorrect, at least for the numbers shown."

Definitely a Quality Craft model, and you're right about the schemes on the instruction sheet - they're all bogus.
http://www.hoseeker.net/qualitycraft/qualitycraftIobboxcarpg1.jpg
http://www.hoseeker.net/qualitycraft/qualitycraftIobboxcarpg2.jpg

I'm having difficulty finding prototypes with SS ends, so I'm skeptical regarding a prototype for this model. It appears to a their 40 ft MILW SS boxcar stretched to 50 ft.

See Richard Hendrickson's article in the July 1995 and July 1996 issues of Railmodel Journal for more information.
http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/443/32370/july-1995-page-16
http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/407/29808/july-1996-page-14

(Part of the first article and all of the second article's images are coming up - it looks like there's partial restoration of the Trainlife website.)


Ben Hom


Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype

Dennis Storzek
 

Is this the kit with cast soft metal side posts and braces? If so, it's a Quality Craft kit, although I forget the intended prototype.

Dennis Storzek


Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype

Rich Gibson
 


The braces on the model form a Howe truss.

 

This is not the Northeastern SP model, as far as I can tell. It does not have a fishbelly underframe and the side bracing pattern is very different from the A-50-6. The instructions show no drawings of an SP car, only Reading, WM, NYC, PRR, D&H. N&W....all of which seem to be incorrect, at least for the numbers shown.

 

Rich Gibson


Re: Contact from Athearn.com

Tim O'Connor
 


In regards to the Athearn 65 foot mill gondola: I wrote to Athearn and
asked them about it, and they said that sold out models are listed under
"retired" models but this does NOT mean the cars will not be produced in
the future. The last run of the gondolas, only a year ago, SOLD OUT so I
suspect there will be a future run.

http://www.athearn.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=65%27+Gondola+RTR&CatID=THRF&OA=True

Tim O'Connor


Re: Ace Hardware's "Two-Ton Epoxy"

 

³Marinetex² is another good one. It can even be drilled and tapped; and not
just 2-56: we¹re talking 1/4-20 and larger.


Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

From: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, January 16, 2015 at 4:45 PM
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Ace Hardware's "Two-Ton Epoxy"







Over the years after several frustrating attempts to use Epoxy to attach
vulnerable parts, Andy Carlson alerted me to Ace Hardware's "Two-Ton Epoxy."
Over the past several years I have never has a problem with this product and
used it today to attach a "Triple Valve Protective Plate" to a VGN SS boxcar
and fill in the Coupler Screw holes on an underframe that I miss-drilled.
Great stuff, never fails to harden, it is slow working allowing plenty of
time to work. I don't use anything labeled "Fast" or "Quick" except for CA.



I highly recommend this product! Thank you Andy!



Bill Welch


Devcon Epoxy

Bill Welch
 

For those interested here is the information on the display card etc for the product I have been using: The small # on the upper righthand side of the packaging is 31345 and it is called "Devcon Home 2 Ton Epoxy." The dispenser notes that it is "Clear."


Their website is: www.DevconHome.com

 

Bill Welch


Re: Kadee roofwalks

paul.doggett2472 <paul.doggett2472@...>
 

Its a thought cheers Chad.
Paul Doggett UK



Sent from Samsung mobile

"chadboas@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

I have used short pieces of Evergreen 3/32 tube and press fit them onto the tab. I don't glue them so there wont be any bleed thru.

Chad Boas


Re: Kadee roofwalks

paul.doggett2472 <paul.doggett2472@...>
 

Thanks Rob
Paul Doggett UK

Sent from Samsung mobile

"robev1630@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

I have used Aileens flexible craft glue for all my roofwalks, Kadee, and etched. I also use it on my metal weights.

 

Sincerely,

Rob Manley

Midwest Mod-U-Trak

"Better modeling through personal embarassment"

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 9:13 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Kadee roofwalks

 

 

Cheers 

           

              Chuck i have canopy cement will give it a go.

 

Paul Doggett UK

 

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung mobile


"RUTLANDRS@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Paul,

 

    In the past, barge cement and canopy glue have been suggested.

 

Chuck Hladik

 

In a message dated 1/18/2015 9:56:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:

 

Apart from drilling holes in the car roof has anyone any suggestions for fixing Kadee roof walks to a plastic car roof.

Thanks in advance.

Paul Doggett UK

 

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung mobile


Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype

Allan Smith
 

I think the car you are describing is the Northeastern Scale Models SP 50' A-50-5-6 model. The instructions show car 67099 which is a A-50-6 car in the series 66800-67999. Photos are on pages 58-65 of Tony's book Volume 3, SP Freight Cars

Al Smith Sonora CA


Cocoa Beach a Very Special Thanks from the Shake N Take Group

Greg Martin
 

Group
 
Let me thank the folks that made this project a success. These folks have worked hard behind the scenes and absolutely deserve recognition.
This project started with the help of Richard Hendrickson who supplied photos and information to start the ball rolling and was a great inspiration; his untimely passing has been hard for us all. You'll never realize how much input he has offered from the very beginning of these projects. This project was our last together from the start to what is now finished. He provided me with other future projects but in his absence of standing over me in his flight suite with his hands in his pockets looking down at the data that he had provided in the “Room of all Knowledge” while I sat at the table digesting all he had acquired and I can truly say, “School was in...” dare I say I feel a bit lost.
 
God Speed Richard I miss you immensely, every day...
Steve Hile for his research into and the acquisition of such valuable data on the Rock Island series 161000 to 161349 40-foot
Automobile Boxcars. He has done a tremendous amount of work on this project. Also his contribution of the decals that we need to make this project complete.
 
Ed Hawkins for his quiet insight and helpful research that kept the very details of this project moving forward, thank you Ed. 

Jim Singer who as always manages my efforts on these project as well a the miscellaneous parts that make the projects doable. He pushes me, he is my perpetual force, although I know he could just hurt me at times.

Archer Rivets who contributes the decal rivet to make this project complete. Thank you very much Woody and Jen!
A very special thanks to Craig Walker and Athearn Trains who was so kind to provide the kits to make this possible, you will never realize how much this does for the modeler. Thanks Craig from the bottom of my heart.

Thanks to Bill McClung with InterMountain Railway for the donations of the detail sprues to complete our kits, it was the icing on the cake for these modelers.
 
A great thanks to Dennis Storzek, who has always been there countless times, involved in every SHAKE N TAKE so far with parts and input that have helped me pull off these projects, often at the last minute...

A thanks has to go out to Schuyler Larrabee who is the owner, and moderator, on his SHAKE_N_TAKE Yahoo Group list as well as editor of these projects , he keeps me square, he is my Jimny Cricket.
 
Thanks to Aaron Gjermundson who for the second year in a row has provided the group with resin parts from my masters, as imperfect as they are...

And thanks to all those members of this little niche group who stumbles through my handout and manages to complete these projects and return them complete or nearly so year after year, you know who you are. Also to those that can't attend but elect to follow along in Cyber Session.

And to Mike Brock (aka Boss) and Prototype Rails 2015 who for the past fifteen years has provided a forum for our SHAKE_N_TAKE projects and puts up with all my silly notions.

Next Year will be special and in order to honor Richard Hendrickson again we are going to have a special project along with our SHAKE N TAKE, it will be a tribute build of Richard's West Rails conversion kits from the 1980's a man long ahead of his time. Space for this will be extremely limited. We will welcome all who wish to sit in and follow along. We may have aftermarket part available for this but that is not certain at this point.
Thanks to all who see SHAKE N TAKE as silly little way to bring model building back to the Railroad Modelers.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


Re: [Shake_N_Take] drop run ladders - a better way?

Robert kirkham
 

ok, that makes a lot sense. Thanks gents.

Off to the basement to find one of those Tichy jigs. I've been listening
long enough to have a stash of pie plate to work with, so will give it a go.
Can't wait to tell my wife about the Glenmorangie; she is often surprised by
my modelling supplies.

Rob Kirkham

-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Zeni clzeni@gmail.com [Shake_N_Take]
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 6:41 PM
To: Shake_N_Take@yahoogroups.com
Cc: STMFC@yahoogroups.com ; schuyler.larrabee@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [Shake_N_Take] [STMFC] drop run ladders - a better way?

I'm ornery. I want them all drilled for robustness...so I drilled them all.
What I ended up using was the foil off the top of a bottle of scotch
whiskey; I think it was Glenmorangie...cut to width, drilled using the jig
that comes in the Tichy box car kits. The foil is more like a thin lead
sheet so it's not too delicate but is more malleable than Greg's beloved pie
tin material :)

Craig Zeni
Cary NC

On Jan 18, 2015, at 9:17 PM, TGREGMRTN@AOL.COM [Shake_N_Take] wrote:



Rob,

I will give you my solution and Craig Zeni has another and Schuyler
Larrabee has another.

I used a jig to create the holes as they need to be the same on the sides
as the ends. For the styles I used a thicker Aluminum foil. This left me
with a nice thin style. The real secret is to NOT drill holes for both
sides of the drop grabs, dill only one and clip the run shot to match the
opposing side. This eliminates the possibility of the grabs from becoming
crooked.

I am sure there are other solutions and Schuyler did use styrene.


Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 1/18/2015 4:43:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:

I’m slowly working through the 2014 Shake and Take project and have come
up against the end ladders. I’m looking for suggestions others have
tried to improve the looks of the finished product. Mine come out looking
like the years have service included a couple of collisions.

The approach I’ve tried is to mark the ladder styles on a sheet of .015”
thick styrene, including both vertical and horizontal centre lines for
each hole to be drilled. Then use a pin to create a dimple at each +, and
drill through with an #80 bit. I find it hard to create a dimple in the
material at the exact correct spot, so my drilled holes are imperfect.
The pin is thick enough and creates enough shadow that it looks like it is
on the +, but it is imprecise.

Is there a better idea? Maybe a jig that is practical?

------------------------------------

------------------------------------


------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links


Re: Kadee roofwalks

Rob & Bev Manley
 

I have used Aileens flexible craft glue for all my roofwalks, Kadee, and etched. I also use it on my metal weights.

 

Sincerely,

Rob Manley

Midwest Mod-U-Trak

"Better modeling through personal embarassment"

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 9:13 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Kadee roofwalks

 

 

Cheers 

           

              Chuck i have canopy cement will give it a go.

 

Paul Doggett UK

 

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung mobile


"RUTLANDRS@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Paul,

 

    In the past, barge cement and canopy glue have been suggested.

 

Chuck Hladik

 

In a message dated 1/18/2015 9:56:09 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:

 

Apart from drilling holes in the car roof has anyone any suggestions for fixing Kadee roof walks to a plastic car roof.

Thanks in advance.

Paul Doggett UK

 

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung mobile


Re: Prototype Rails - Cocoa Beach Photos Posted

Rhbale@...
 

Thanks for posting Dave.
 
Richard Bale
 
 


Re: [Shake_N_Take] drop run ladders - a better way?

Craig Zeni
 

I'm ornery. I want them all drilled for robustness...so I drilled them all. What I ended up using was the foil off the top of a bottle of scotch whiskey; I think it was Glenmorangie...cut to width, drilled using the jig that comes in the Tichy box car kits. The foil is more like a thin lead sheet so it's not too delicate but is more malleable than Greg's beloved pie tin material :)

Craig Zeni
Cary NC

On Jan 18, 2015, at 9:17 PM, TGREGMRTN@AOL.COM [Shake_N_Take] wrote:



Rob,

I will give you my solution and Craig Zeni has another and Schuyler Larrabee has another.

I used a jig to create the holes as they need to be the same on the sides as the ends. For the styles I used a thicker Aluminum foil. This left me with a nice thin style. The real secret is to NOT drill holes for both sides of the drop grabs, dill only one and clip the run shot to match the opposing side. This eliminates the possibility of the grabs from becoming crooked.

I am sure there are other solutions and Schuyler did use styrene.


Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 1/18/2015 4:43:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:

I’m slowly working through the 2014 Shake and Take project and have come up against the end ladders. I’m looking for suggestions others have tried to improve the looks of the finished product. Mine come out looking like the years have service included a couple of collisions.

The approach I’ve tried is to mark the ladder styles on a sheet of .015” thick styrene, including both vertical and horizontal centre lines for each hole to be drilled. Then use a pin to create a dimple at each +, and drill through with an #80 bit. I find it hard to create a dimple in the material at the exact correct spot, so my drilled holes are imperfect. The pin is thick enough and creates enough shadow that it looks like it is on the +, but it is imprecise.

Is there a better idea? Maybe a jig that is practical?


Re: drop run ladders - a better way?

Greg Martin
 

Rob,
 
I will give you my solution and Craig Zeni has another and Schuyler Larrabee has another.
 
I used a jig to create the holes as they need to be the same on the sides as the ends. For the styles I used a thicker Aluminum foil. This left me with a nice thin style. The real secret is to NOT drill holes for both sides of the drop grabs, dill only one and clip the run shot to match the opposing side. This eliminates the possibility of the grabs from becoming crooked.
 
I am sure there are other solutions and Schuyler did use styrene.
 
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 1/18/2015 4:43:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

I’m slowly working through the 2014 Shake and Take project and have come up against the end ladders.   I’m looking for suggestions others have tried to improve the looks of the finished product.  Mine come out looking like the years have service included a couple of collisions.
 
The approach I’ve tried is to mark the ladder styles on a sheet of .015” thick styrene, including both vertical and horizontal centre lines for each hole to be drilled.  Then use a pin to create a dimple at each +, and drill through with an #80 bit.  I find it hard to create a dimple in the material at the exact correct spot,  so my drilled holes are imperfect.  The pin is thick enough and creates enough shadow that it looks like it is on the +, but it is imprecise.
 
Is there a better idea?  Maybe a jig that is practical?
 
Rob Kirkham
 
 
 
 


Re: drop rung ladders - a better way?

Robert kirkham
 

sorry – drop rung, not run.
 
Rob
 

Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 4:43 PM
Subject: [STMFC] drop run ladders - a better way?
 


I’m slowly working through the 2014 Shake and Take project and have come up against the end ladders.   I’m looking for suggestions others have tried to improve the looks of the finished product.  Mine come out looking like the years have service included a couple of collisions.
 
The approach I’ve tried is to mark the ladder styles on a sheet of .015” thick styrene, including both vertical and horizontal centre lines for each hole to be drilled.  Then use a pin to create a dimple at each +, and drill through with an #80 bit.  I find it hard to create a dimple in the material at the exact correct spot,  so my drilled holes are imperfect.  The pin is thick enough and creates enough shadow that it looks like it is on the +, but it is imprecise.
 
Is there a better idea?  Maybe a jig that is practical?
 
Rob Kirkham
 
 
 
 


drop run ladders - a better way?

Robert kirkham
 

I’m slowly working through the 2014 Shake and Take project and have come up against the end ladders.   I’m looking for suggestions others have tried to improve the looks of the finished product.  Mine come out looking like the years have service included a couple of collisions.
 
The approach I’ve tried is to mark the ladder styles on a sheet of .015” thick styrene, including both vertical and horizontal centre lines for each hole to be drilled.  Then use a pin to create a dimple at each +, and drill through with an #80 bit.  I find it hard to create a dimple in the material at the exact correct spot,  so my drilled holes are imperfect.  The pin is thick enough and creates enough shadow that it looks like it is on the +, but it is imprecise.
 
Is there a better idea?  Maybe a jig that is practical?
 
Rob Kirkham
 
 
 
 


Prototype Rails - Cocoa Beach Photos Posted

dh30973
 

I finally got my images processed from this years meet

 

http://www.pbase.com/dh30973/cocoa2015&page=all

 

Dave Hussey

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