Rob,

I will give you my solution and Craig Zeni has another and Schuyler
Larrabee has another.

I used a jig to create the holes as they need to be the same on the sides
as the ends. For the styles I used a thicker Aluminum foil. This left me
with a nice thin style. The real secret is to NOT drill holes for both
sides of the drop grabs, dill only one and clip the run shot to match the
opposing side. This eliminates the possibility of the grabs from becoming
crooked.

I am sure there are other solutions and Schuyler did use styrene.


Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 1/18/2015 4:43:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:

I’m slowly working through the 2014 Shake and Take project and have come
up against the end ladders. I’m looking for suggestions others have
tried to improve the looks of the finished product. Mine come out looking
like the years have service included a couple of collisions.

The approach I’ve tried is to mark the ladder styles on a sheet of .015”
thick styrene, including both vertical and horizontal centre lines for
each hole to be drilled. Then use a pin to create a dimple at each +, and
drill through with an #80 bit. I find it hard to create a dimple in the
material at the exact correct spot, so my drilled holes are imperfect.
The pin is thick enough and creates enough shadow that it looks like it is
on the +, but it is imprecise.

Is there a better idea? Maybe a jig that is practical?

Rob,

I will give you my solution and Craig Zeni has another and Schuyler Larrabee has another.

I used a jig to create the holes as they need to be the same on the sides as the ends. For the styles I used a thicker Aluminum foil. This left me with a nice thin style. The real secret is to NOT drill holes for both sides of the drop grabs, dill only one and clip the run shot to match the opposing side. This eliminates the possibility of the grabs from becoming crooked.

I am sure there are other solutions and Schuyler did use styrene.


Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 1/18/2015 4:43:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:

I’m slowly working through the 2014 Shake and Take project and have come up against the end ladders. I’m looking for suggestions others have tried to improve the looks of the finished product. Mine come out looking like the years have service included a couple of collisions.

The approach I’ve tried is to mark the ladder styles on a sheet of .015” thick styrene, including both vertical and horizontal centre lines for each hole to be drilled. Then use a pin to create a dimple at each +, and drill through with an #80 bit. I find it hard to create a dimple in the material at the exact correct spot, so my drilled holes are imperfect. The pin is thick enough and creates enough shadow that it looks like it is on the +, but it is imprecise.

Is there a better idea? Maybe a jig that is practical?

 

All,

I have an HO model that I assembled from a wood kit a number of years ago but never lettered because the decals disintegrated. Looking at it now, it's a nice car but it is clear from the 1955 ORER that the lettering diagrams provided with the kit do not correspond to prototype examples of this car. The kit was manufactured by Quality Craft Models and distributed by Bev-Bel. Unfortunately, I cannot find a picture of this model online to provide a link to, so I will try to describe the car below:

- External dimensions: length 51', height rails to top of roofwalk 15', width 10'

- Single sheathed with 'z' braces; 2 diagonals left of doors, 3 to right; 45 degree corner braces at the top and bottom of the end side panels

- 1 1/2 doors (6.5' and 4.5' width); staggered; wood doors with a horizontal brace approx! imately mid-height

- composite ends with braces in a 'V' configuration

- Hutchins Dry lading roof

- straight center sill underframe

- K-style brakes with brake wheel mounted on a vertical shaft.

Overall, the car looks very much like a 50' version of the of the MILW 40' auto boxes (592025-593024) shown on pg. 99 of the Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual, Vol. 1.

I'd appreciate any suggestions on a reasonable prototype for this car along with any pointers to photos and/or decal sources. The obvious first question is whether or not the MILW had 50' auto boxes of this style. Thanks in advance for any help.

Rich Gibson

Tulsa, OK

On Jan 17, 2015, at 3:00 AM, jack.f.mullen@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

Roger, Thanks.

 If the car number definitely begins 844, that confirms that it's one of the North Western Refrigerator Line cars in the BPDX 84370 - 84478 series.

 You may be right about the end mark being an overpaint.  I can't find an example at hand, but I recall seeing at least one photo of an NWX billboard reefer which appeared to have newly painted sides and noticeably weathered ends. Evidently the car had just received a repaint of the billboard sides only.  However, most of the official photos of newly repainted billboard cars seem to show a full repaint. I doubt we can know whether that was really done for most, or just for the one being photographed.

Jack Mullen

On pages 21 and 22 of the latest book from Speedwitch, "Freight Cars in Context" there are photos of MILW boxcars. I am an idiot when it comes to recognizing trucks. Can someone tell me please what trucks these cars ride on and is there a HO product available?

Bill Welch