|
Re: Athearn container gondolas
caboose9792@...
I don't think anyone mentioned the RP cyc #10 on the NYC cars and the there
containers.
Mark Rickert
In a message dated 1/16/2015 6:06:21 A.M. Central Standard Time,
STMFC@... writes:
.
|
|
|
|
Sale of the rest of Richard Hendrickson's brass frieght cars
Tony Thompson
Just a quick reminder for those interested:
The deadline for bids will be noon, Pacific time, on Tuesday, January 20. The list of items for sale was sent out on January 12. Anyone wishing a fresh copy, please contact me OFF LIST. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@... Publishers of books on railroad history
|
|
|
|
Re: interesting gondola load
Ernie Valentine
Another possibility is insulators for high voltage power transmission lines. The packing looks to be about the right size and type for high voltage insulators. Ernie Valentine Red Wing
|
|
|
|
Re: interesting gondola load
Schuyler
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Good guess, could be something like mufflers. I also thought they might be stamped or extruded metal parts of some kind. On closer inspection I see an ampersand -- & -- on that gondola, and given the color, I wonder if that is a B&LE gondola. Tim O
I don't really know, but if you enlarge the photo sufficiently, down at the
|
|
|
|
Re: Car Weights
Andy Sperandeo
Just to make a couple of observations, sheet lead is not magnetic, and screws make an instant attachment with no solvent vapors or danger of shrinkage. So long – Andy
|
|
|
|
Re: CNW 75194
Andy Carlson
Hi Schuyler-
I am sending a scan of the box car you screen captured in cocoa beach. It may offer more details? I am also enclosing an attached 40' PS-1 for your enjoyment. I should be able to ship your USRA Andrews Tahoe truck later this week or next Monday. -Andy Carlson Ojai CA ________________________________[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
|
|
Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype
Well, I fat thumbed that post before it was done. Here is a list of the series with wood ends. Many are SP system and the MILW cars you mention, Tim:ERIE 68300 68324 25 1910 PSC ERIE 68325 68399 75 1910 PSC CRI&P 261125 261449 325 F3 1912 WSC RIA&L 261000 261124 125 1912 WSC CB&Q 45000 45499 500 XA-05 1913 H&B CRI&P 261450 261949 500 1913 PUL UP 85600 85999 400 A-40-01 1913 SSC SP 61660 62059 400 A-40-01 1913 SSC L&N 9800 9899 100 1917 ACF SP 66800 67999 1200 A-50-06 1923 GAC GH&SA 39660 39959 300 A-50-06 1923 GAC SP 68000 68499 500 A-50-05 1923 GAC GH&SA 58100 58199 100 A-50-07 1924 PUL LW 58000 58099 100 A-50-07 1924 PUL SP 68680 68879 200 A-50-07 1924 PUL SP 68880 68979 100 A-50-07 1924 PUL
On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype
I tally 16 series of ~50' SS XA built new with wood ends between 1910 and 1924. Many had ends with posts and braces in the |\||/| pattern, but not all. All had door openings of around ~10' most were "door and a half" but some had equal-sized doors of approx 5-5. All had sides with Howe trusses. All but the first two series had 7 posts per side, the two 1910 series for the Erie had five. They were formidable monsters for their time ;-)
On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
CNW 75194
Schuyler Larrabee
Can anyone direct me to a good photo of this car? It’s a single sheathed 40 ton box built 5-36, that appears very tall, and has single sheathed ends. I took (with permission) a photo off the screen in one of the Cocoa Beach presentations, and it’s a very interesting car. I doubt there’s a kit for it, but I might be pleasantly surprised.
One >could< build a model based on the photo of a photo I have, but it’d be chancy.
Schuyler
|
|
|
|
Re: longevity of truss-rod cabooses?
destorzek@...
The Soo Line retired its last wood cabooses with truss rod underframes in the early 1980's, although they may have been out of service since the late 70's. Their last use was transfer cabooses in the twin cities and Chicago area, and with their last rebuilding, many had their cupolas entirely sheathed in plywood, so while the cupola was still there, it had no windows. However, this was the entire caboose fleet until the International Car Co. "wide vision" cars began arriving in the mid 60's.
IIRC, the ICC required steel underframes on all cabooses by 1928, although I'm not sure if that deadline was extended. The Soo complied, fitting their entire fleet of wood caboose cars with steel underframes in the early twenties. They essentially built new steel center sills, body bolsters and crossbearers, cleaned everything below the sills off the existing cars, and set them on the new frames. Since the truss rods also served to hold the end sills on the original frame, they were retained, with the two pairs of crossbearers properly located to serve as needle beams. The inner truss rods typically sat in short saddle castings riveted directly to the crossbearer cover plates, while longer queenposts were cast with a mounting flange that matched the angle of the lower surface of the pressed steel crossbearer. As far as I can tell, thy served no purpose on the rebuilt car (the short cars certainly didn't need the truss to support the middle) and simply held the ends on the body. It appears that the ICC order simply wanted steel sills of adequate proportion, and the fact that were these additional truss rods was not an issue. Dennis Storzek
|
|
|
|
Re: longevity of truss-rod cabooses?
Rich Gibson
The Maine Central still had some into the 70's even after rebuilding with plywood sides:
or metal sides: Rich Gibson Tulsa
|
|
|
|
Re: drop runr ladders - a better way?
Robert,
I rarely ever drill #80 holes any more ... just for the reasons you note and a few of my own. I can't remember the last time I put a #80 in a pin vise! My "minimum drill size" is #78. When drilling any hole that will have something installed in them I go larger by 1 or 2 numbers. It makes the parts -fit- a lot easier. Even if they are 'loose'. Then I will use either a very small amount of Tenax or Krystal Klear as the adhesive. Which melts and bonds to the shape in the case of Tenax or fills in the gap in the case of KK. When using Tenax I pre-assemble and apply the glue after. When using KK I put the KK in the hole(s) and put the part in after. The finished model will be "what you wanted/envisioned it to look like all along" ... - YMMV ... Jim
|
|
|
|
Re: interesting gondola load
Schuyler Larrabee
I don't really know, but if you enlarge the photo sufficiently, down at the
water's edge, there is one of the cardboard wrappers that's broken open, and it looks like there is a gray-painted rectangular object in there that has a tube out the end. Perhaps some sort of HVAC device? A muffler? They had to be fairly beefy things as they are cardboard-wrapped, held closed with no less than four steel straps. Looks like they were shipped on end. Also interesting is the way the wreck must have moved some dirt around; the truck of the wrecked car appears to be half-buried in the fill above the left end of the car. Is this a NKP car? Took a pretty good bite into the roof of the Cotton Belt box on the right. Schuyler Tim asks: Any idea what this gondola load might have been? http://www.ebay.com/itm/371236096724 That B&O gondola 352409 is nearly brand new in this 1958 photo. Tim O'Connor
|
|
|
|
Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype
Eric
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I was going to suggest the Rock Island cars too but you beat me to it. But as you imply if that was the intent, then they really screwed it up! But the sides do strongly resemble the RI car -- which was available as a resin kit from Rocket Express. 50 foot single sheathed auto cars with composite ends must have been rare to begin with -- other than the SP A-50-6 and maybe the Milwaukee cars that were suggested I just don't know of any. Tim O'
Rich, I'm afraid I have to agree with Ben - there likely is no prototype. If someone comes up with on I would certainly like to know of it. In my box car database, which is based on thousands of references, there are no series that meet the structural characteristics you list. There are 163 series of single-wood-sheathed cars between 48-0 and 51-6 inside length, 68 are built new, the remainder are series that have been rebuilt or renumbered, or both. Of these only one has the posts and braces count and arrangement you list: RI 262450-262799, built 1930 by SSC. However, these cars have fishbelly center sills, Dreadnaught ends, a radial roof, and a 12-0 door opening. I am sending you a spreadsheet output from the database with all the present information I have on the 163 series. Perhaps, if you go through it you might find a compromise you can accept or a modification you are willing to undertake to the present model.
|
|
|
|
Re: drop rung ladders - a better way?
Schuyler Larrabee
Greg says I have a better way . . .
Well, he had to put up with my whining while I did them, so at least he’s heard me about this challenge. By the way, the side parts of ladders are stiles, not styles.
For the cars side ladders, I drew a line down the side at the “right location” for the left side of the ladder. Then, after calculating the distance between the rungs (several times until I got the same answer . . . 8^/ ) I also used a divider to mark off the locations. The dividers I used have a VERY sharp point on one side, and I made a tiny dimple at that point. Then I used a straight pin to make that a bit deeper, then the No. 80 drill. I did the Greg Martin trick of cutting off (in my case) the right hand leg of the rung by putting it through a hole in a piece of .030” styrene, and then pressing the styrene down so the legs were extended as far through the styrene as possible ( for uniformity). Flush cut nippers did the trick.
After putting the grabs in, I used thick ACC on the inside of the car. NEXT time, I will do something more: I’ll bend the grabs inside the car, and use 5 minute epoxy inside so as to gain a mechanical advantage that will increase the likelihood that the grabs will not rotate. You can guess why I thought about this . . .
The ends . . . (sigh) . . . this was not easy. I had braced the bulkhead inside with some .040” square styrene, so to drill through for even one side was a challenge, but I did, mostly, dill through for them. A few, I just drilled in far enough to be able to have one leg IN the end, and used ACC to glue it in. I glued the 1x2 styrene strip for the corner stile on, then allowed the rungs to tell me where the stile closer to the centerline should be. The true pisser was when I managed to break a drill bit in the corner stile, close enough to the surface that there was NFW I could get it out. That one got it’s right leg drilled in and the left one cut off.
All in all, these are just miserable things to have to make, IMHO. BTW, I managed to run out of commercial drop grabs, so had to make about half the grabs on the model from wire. Which reminds me I should order some more.
The end ladders have me thinking that maybe these could be printed parts, especially after seeing Jack Burgess’ superb clinic at Cocoa. I should look into this on my other list (of interest to this audience) the 3DSTFC list. I may be the owner, but I am NOT an expert at it, not at all, but still . . .
Schuyler
From: TGREGMRTN Subject: Re: [STMFC] drop run ladders - a better way?
Rob,
I will give you my solution and Craig Zeni has another and Schuyler Larrabee has another.
I used a jig to create the holes as they need to be the same on the sides as the ends. For the styles I used a thicker Aluminum foil. This left me with a nice thin style. The real secret is to NOT drill holes for both sides of the drop grabs, dill only one and clip the run shot to match the opposing side. This eliminates the possibility of the grabs from becoming crooked.
I am sure there are other solutions and Schuyler did use styrene.
Greg Martin
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
In a message dated 1/18/2015 4:43:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
|
|
|
|
interesting gondola load
Anys idea what this gondola load might have been?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371236096724 That B&O gondola 352409 is nearly brand new in this 1958 photo. Tim O'Connor
|
|
|
|
Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype
Rich, I'm afraid I have to agree with Ben - there likely is no prototype. If someone comes up with on I would certainly like to know of it. In my box car database, which is based on thousands of references, there are no series that meet the structural characteristics you list. There are 163 series of single-wood-sheathed cars between 48-0 and 51-6 inside length, 68 are built new, the remainder are series that have been rebuilt or renumbered, or both. Of these only one has the posts and braces count and arrangement you list: RI 262450-262799, built 1930 by SSC. However, these cars have fishbelly center sills, Dreadnaught ends, a radial roof, and a 12-0 door opening. I am sending you a spreadsheet output from the database with all the present information I have on the 163 series. Perhaps, if you go through it you might find a compromise you can accept or a modification you are willing to undertake to the present model. Sincerely,
On Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 8:48 AM, richgibson89@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
longevity of truss-rod cabooses?
D. Scott Chatfield
Did any truss-rod underframe cabooses survive in service on Class One railroads until 1960? I seem to recall an ICC order about not shoving on wood underframe cabs after, what, 1940? But was there any ICC order mandating their retirement?
thanks Scott Chatfield
|
|
|
|
Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype
Eric Neubauer <eaneubauer@...>
RDG had no 50' outside steel truss box cars. The
only cars remotely similar were the USRA 40' cars.
Eric N.
|
|
|
|
Re: SS 50' box - looking for prototype
Benjamin Hom
Rich Gibson wrote:
"The braces on the model form a Howe truss. This is not the Northeastern SP model, as far as I can tell. It does not have a fishbelly underframe and the side bracing pattern is very different from the A-50-6. The instructions show no drawings of an SP car, only Reading, WM, NYC, PRR, D&H. N&W....all of which seem to be incorrect, at least for the numbers shown." Definitely a Quality Craft model, and you're right about the schemes on the instruction sheet - they're all bogus. http://www.hoseeker.net/qualitycraft/qualitycraftIobboxcarpg1.jpg http://www.hoseeker.net/qualitycraft/qualitycraftIobboxcarpg2.jpg I'm having difficulty finding prototypes with SS ends, so I'm skeptical regarding a prototype for this model. It appears to a their 40 ft MILW SS boxcar stretched to 50 ft. See Richard Hendrickson's article in the July 1995 and July 1996 issues of Railmodel Journal for more information. http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/443/32370/july-1995-page-16 http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/407/29808/july-1996-page-14 (Part of the first article and all of the second article's images are coming up - it looks like there's partial restoration of the Trainlife website.) Ben Hom
|
|
|
