Date   

Re: freight car diagrams

genegreen1942@...
 

Thanks for guiding my attention to that internet site.  One of the "equipment diagram" drawings was one I created from field measurements in 1995 but posted with my name and copyright notice removed.  I don't mind others seeing my work my but I'd like credit where credit is due.  I have contacted a person who I believe is the appropriate one to help me.
Gene Green


Pressed Steel Car Co War Emergency Gondola Ends on Rock Island 900-1299

Schleigh Mike
 

Hello Freight Car Folks!

RP CYC #28 nicely documents that the subject cars were built with seemingly uncommon ends from PSC Co. rather than the very common Dreadnaught style.  Neither the Sunshine nor F&C resin kits seemed to address this lesser applied product none-the-less offering the Rock Island name.  The PSC Co. steel end would seemingly be mistaken for no other.  Can anyone offer a suggestion for making it?  If such an example has been offered in the HO modeling world, it would be an easy matter to "rub" a replica using thin, soft shim stock as as been recently discussed here-in.

Does anyone have a recommendation for the PSC Co. end?

Thank you for looking at this----Mike Schleigh


Re: MTH Paint Remover

Michael Watnoski
 

Geetings,

    I haven't any luck with 'Awesome'.  I did have good results with ProForce Floor Stripper from Sam's Club.  It has the odor of Chameleaon with a caustic base.  It is cheap and reusable.

Michael

On 1/31/2015 5:21 PM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] wrote:
Garth, Tim and all,
 
Acetone and MEK will eat plastic and craze it almost instantly... If you want to do yours first and tell me how it worked out for you, let me know.
 
Chuck, spend a buck, go to The Dollar Tree and buy some "AWSOME" in that back of the store with the cleaners and you can't miss it as it is a yellow liquid. I would let it soak overnight and lightly scrub it the next day with a soft tooth brush. Keep it at room temperature for the best results. Keep it away from your wife's cabinets and other painted or varnished surfaces.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
Garth Groff replies:
Friends,

Would acetone/lacquer thinner/fingernail polish remover be safe? I use this to strip paint from fiberglass (on archery bows), but I'm not sure of its effect on styrene.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff"


Re: MTH Paint Remover

Greg Martin
 

Garth, Tim and all,
 
Acetone and MEK will eat plastic and craze it almost instantly... If you want to do yours first and tell me how it worked out for you, let me know.
 
Chuck, spend a buck, go to The Dollar Tree and buy some "AWSOME" in that back of the store with the cleaners and you can't miss it as it is a yellow liquid. I would let it soak overnight and lightly scrub it the next day with a soft tooth brush. Keep it at room temperature for the best results. Keep it away from your wife's cabinets and other painted or varnished surfaces.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
Garth Groff replies:

Friends,

Would acetone/lacquer thinner/fingernail polish remover be safe? I use this to strip paint from fiberglass (on archery bows), but I'm not sure of its effect on styrene.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff"


Re: National Type B Truck Longevity

John Sykes III
 

Prohibition, no, but I have heard that PRR replaced a lot of the National B-1 trucks on their freight cars because they had a custom spring package or something unique to that truck design.  Couldn't use the standard AAR spring package, which meant stocking extra parts just for these trucks.  A PITA.

-- John


Re: National Type B Truck Longevity

Guy Wilber
 

Dave wrote:

"Anyone know of any regulatory action, or of any reliability, maintenance, and/or cost factor that affected the service life of this distinctive truck, or National's revised Type B-1 version?"


Dave,

There were no provisions from the ICC or AAR prohibiting the use of National Type B side frames (in interchange) within the timeframe of the STMFC.

Regards,

Guy Wilber
Reno, Nevada


Re: MTH Paint Remover

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Ed,

Good point. I'm used to stripping TM, Athearn and Roundhouse. Since I got rid of most of those old relics, I haven't done much stripping. New plastics are an unknown world for me.

I once stripped a Bachmann 44-tonner shell in brake fluid, and had it turn to rubber. I don't want a repeat of that on a $50 car.

Yours Aye,


Garth



On 1/31/15 1:59 PM, ed_mines@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Garth, how do you know the plastic is polystyrene?


Some of the newer cars are made of plastic that seems to be stronger than polystyrene in thin cross section.


Try a little ketone where an accident will not show.


Ed Mines



Re: MTH Paint Remover

destorzek@...
 

Just keep in mind, ABS is Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. Both Acetone and MEK will still attack the styrene portion of that mix.

Dennis Storzek


Re: MTH Paint Remover

Tony Thompson
 

Try a little ketone where an accident will not show.

         As many of you know, our familiar acetone is, chemically, dimethyl ketone. The MEK of song and legend is methyl ethyl ketone, very similar in many ways.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: MTH Paint Remover

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 1/31/2015 10:59 AM, ed_mines@... [STMFC] wrote:
Garth, how do you know the plastic is polystyrene?
    Most of the imported stuff like MTH and BLI is made of ABS.  A quick check of MTH site says ABS.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


freight car diagrams

ed_mines
 

Found a whole lot of these on the internet.


Go to northeast.railfan.net -> northeast links -> alphabet route -> check each rr


Ed Mines


Re: MTH Paint Remover

ed_mines
 

Garth, how do you know the plastic is polystyrene?


Some of the newer cars are made of plastic that seems to be stronger than polystyrene in thin cross section.


Try a little ketone where an accident will not show.


Ed Mines


Re: e bay chuckle

Jeff Pellas <jppellas@...>
 

Bill,

     The first change to the kit I made was scratch building a radial roof for it. I walk a line between being true to the kit and depicting the car as accurately as possible and in this case, the car had to have a radial roof! I built up the roof with thin strips of balsa and sanded a curved roof shape for it. I then glued a very thin layer of aluminum (from a soda can) over the wood before applying the metal ribs. For the underside details, I used frame pieces salvaged from a Silver Streak USRA DS car combined with Tichy bolsters. I did use the turned wood brake cylinder that came with the kit (with modifications). For the 3-3-3 ends, I decided not to use the card stock ones and instead cut them off of a 1970s era Tyco boxcar. Had to sand and file off the cast on ladder and brake parts. I then put aside the ladder stock from the kit and instead fashioned the end ladders out of styrene and Ye Olde Huff n Puff grab irons. For the sides, I first added styrene strip for the side braces (to make the braces stand out more). I then cut out, from the cardboard sides, the spaces between the embossed braces and glued them to the car between the styrene braces I had just applied. I also cut out the doors individually, added very thin wood strip behind the doors (also to make them stand out more) and glued those to the sides. That is where I am now. Still have to add grabs and a few other details to the sides and carefully paint them and touch up several other areas. 
     If I had to do this over again, I'd still probably use the Tyco ends since I can't seem to find 3-3-3 ends as a separate detail part. Also I'd use end ladders from Yarmouth, a Central Valley radial roof and an Accurail bottom.
     The GTW car I am going to build is very similar to the Wabash car except it has auto end doors and also ladders on the sides instead of drop grabs.

     I'd definitely contribute pics to a photo section on vintage kit cars.                  

Jeff
jppellas@...


-----Original Message-----
From: fgexbill@... [STMFC]
To: STMFC
Sent: Thu, Jan 29, 2015 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [STMFC] e bay chuckle



FYI the Wabash DD SS cars had Radial roofs.

I think it would be very interesting to have an Album dedicated to photos of wood models as a part of this Yahoo discussion group.

Bill Welch



Re: AAR Type F 70 Ton 53’ Flat Car Kit *** FOR SALE, CLOSE OUT ***

Doug Junda
 

Just to correct the address is djunda AT pdtnetworks Dot ORG,  If you sent a email to the .com address I will respond also.


Doug


Re: National Type B Truck Longevity

cinderandeight@...
 

One of the excursion cars on Henry Ford's Greenfield Village steam railroad still rides on National Type B trucks. (If anyone is interested in getting a good close look at them)
    Rich Burg


AAR Type F 70 Ton 53’ Flat Car Kit *** FOR SALE, CLOSE OUT ***

Doug Junda
 

I came across a box of ProtoWest Models� AAR Type F 70 Ton 53� Flat Car Kit. I had stored,� They come two cars per box, and are a resin kit, Tichy Train Group detail part,� no trucks or couplers included.

The kits retailed for $44.95, I would like to close them out ro people here on the list before going to E-bay.� I would sell the for $30.00 and $7.00 for shipping.� I also have decals for ATSF, ERIE and NYC that I would add in at no cost.

Please contact me off list at djunda AT pdtnetworks DOT com.

Thanks for allow me to list these kits.

Doug J


MTH Paint Remover

Don Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

Tim O'Connor wrote:

Chuck

Tried acetone or MEK? I mention this because the old Front Range cars
were extremely hard to strip, except with Accupaint thinner, which is
around 75% acetone + MEK. (Fred Becker is the person who found the paint
in the first place, and told George Bishop who quickly switched his AP
brand to that type of paint. AP was originally a complete different
paint.)

George Bishop orginally used Floquil for his Accu-paint line and
thus it had all the problems normally associated with Floquil. George
was having other problems with Floquil as well so the switch was timely
for him in more ways than one.

When it comes to removing MTH or any other paint, however, it is really hard to beat a good grit blast booth and aluminum oxide medium. One tried
I doubt many will ever go back to chemical strippers.

Cordially, DOn Valentine


Re: MTH Paint Remover

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Friends,

Would acetone/lacquer thinner/fingernail polish remover be safe? I use this to strip paint from fiberglass (on archery bows), but I'm not sure of its effect on styrene.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 1/30/15 11:39 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] wrote:
 


Evidently not, since it's a major component of Accupaint, TruColor etc.
I didn't soak the Front Range bodies for long -- just a few seconds in
the bath and the paint sloughed off. Because it's so volatile it will
evaporate almost immediately from the car when the car is removed from
the bath. I think that if you allow them to soak or leave a puddle on the
car, that could damage the plastic. Also I only stripped the car body,
not fine ladders, etc.


At 1/30/2015 11:30 PM Friday, you wrote:


Won't MEK dissolve the car? I use it as my solvent for plastic kits.
 
__________________________________________________
J. Stephen Sandifer
Minister Emeritus, Southwest Central Church of Christ
Webmaster, Santa Fe Railway Historical and Modeling Society
 
From: STMFC@... [ mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 10:19 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] MTH Paint Remover
 
 

Chuck

Tried acetone or MEK? I mention this because the old Front Range cars
were extremely hard to strip, except with Accupaint thinner, which is
around 75% acetone + MEK. (Fred Becker is the person who found the paint
in the first place, and told George Bishop who quickly switched his AP
brand to that type of paint. AP was originally a complete different paint.)

Tim O'



At 1/30/2015 10:12 PM Friday, you wrote:
Has anyone found a paint remover successful in removing the paint and lettering from MTH freight cars?  I’ve tried 91% alcohol, Scalecoat Paint Remover and  brake fluid.  Was able to remove the paint and most of the lettering, but not the lettering outline which remained.
 
Chuck Davis
Norfolk VA





Re: MTH Paint Remover

Tim O'Connor
 


Evidently not, since it's a major component of Accupaint, TruColor etc.
I didn't soak the Front Range bodies for long -- just a few seconds in
the bath and the paint sloughed off. Because it's so volatile it will
evaporate almost immediately from the car when the car is removed from
the bath. I think that if you allow them to soak or leave a puddle on the
car, that could damage the plastic. Also I only stripped the car body,
not fine ladders, etc.


At 1/30/2015 11:30 PM Friday, you wrote:


Won't MEK dissolve the car? I use it as my solvent for plastic kits.
 
__________________________________________________
J. Stephen Sandifer
Minister Emeritus, Southwest Central Church of Christ
Webmaster, Santa Fe Railway Historical and Modeling Society
 
From: STMFC@... [ mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 10:19 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] MTH Paint Remover
 
 

Chuck

Tried acetone or MEK? I mention this because the old Front Range cars
were extremely hard to strip, except with Accupaint thinner, which is
around 75% acetone + MEK. (Fred Becker is the person who found the paint
in the first place, and told George Bishop who quickly switched his AP
brand to that type of paint. AP was originally a complete different paint.)

Tim O'



At 1/30/2015 10:12 PM Friday, you wrote:
Has anyone found a paint remover successful in removing the paint and lettering from MTH freight cars?  I�ve tried 91% alcohol, Scalecoat Paint Remover and  brake fluid.  Was able to remove the paint and most of the lettering, but not the lettering outline which remained.
 
Chuck Davis
Norfolk VA




Re: MTH Paint Remover

Steve SANDIFER
 

Won't MEK dissolve the car? I use it as my solvent for plastic kits.

 

__________________________________________________

J. Stephen Sandifer

Minister Emeritus, Southwest Central Church of Christ

Webmaster, Santa Fe Railway Historical and Modeling Society

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 10:19 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] MTH Paint Remover

 

 

Chuck

Tried acetone or MEK? I mention this because the old Front Range cars
were extremely hard to strip, except with Accupaint thinner, which is
around 75% acetone + MEK. (Fred Becker is the person who found the paint
in the first place, and told George Bishop who quickly switched his AP
brand to that type of paint. AP was originally a complete different paint.)

Tim O'



At 1/30/2015 10:12 PM Friday, you wrote:

Has anyone found a paint remover successful in removing the paint and lettering from MTH freight cars?  I’ve tried 91% alcohol, Scalecoat Paint Remover and  brake fluid.  Was able to remove the paint and most of the lettering, but not the lettering outline which remained.
 
Chuck Davis
Norfolk VA

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