Date   

Re: NMRA membership

William Bryk <wmbryk@...>
 

Dear Friends:

I am a dues-paying member of the NMRA.  I believe its work in setting standards is helpful to the hobby and the industry.  I believe it provides a framework for hobby activism, if you will: it links members from the same areas, different areas, and, indeed, the world.  At the same time, many hobbyists are lone wolves and I can understand why they find it irrelevant to their needs.  I think it's better to have it - and to help it survive - than not.

Regards,
William Bryk

On Sat, May 30, 2015 at 9:52 PM, Pierre Oliver pierre.oliver@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

As we sit here in the hotel room, post NE RPM, drinking lovely local
beer and chewing the fact, (Trevor Marshall and I), we find ourselves
wondering about the relevance of the NMRA in the prototype modeling world.
So here's the big question. How many modelers on this list are paid
members of the NMRA today?

--
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com




--
William Bryk
Attorney and Counsellor-at-Law
578 74th Street
Brooklyn, New York 11209-2614
Tel/Fax: (347) 497-5972


Re: NMRA membership

Charles Hladik
 

Pierre,
    Paid for Life. No vest but like the Achievement Program.
 
Chuck Hladik
 Vice President Mid-Eastern Region (MER)
 

In a message dated 5/30/2015 9:52:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

As we sit here in the hotel room, post NE RPM, drinking lovely local
beer and chewing the fact, (Trevor Marshall and I), we find ourselves
wondering about the relevance of the NMRA in the prototype modeling world.
So here's the big question. How many modelers on this list are paid
members of the NMRA today?

--
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com


NMRA membership

Pierre Oliver
 

As we sit here in the hotel room, post NE RPM, drinking lovely local beer and chewing the fact, (Trevor Marshall and I), we find ourselves wondering about the relevance of the NMRA in the prototype modeling world.
So here's the big question. How many modelers on this list are paid members of the NMRA today?

--
Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com


Andrews Cast side 50 ton trucks

jayrs9
 

I'm working on the trucks for my USRA single sheathed box car, specifically Andrews cast side frame 50 ton trucks.  I have some good dimensional information from the USRA car specs, but I'm looking for any pictures of them as they might appear in 1019-20 so as to add the details.  Also what would be the correct embossed writing on the side of these trucks?

The initial specs for these cars called for an arch bar truck, but it doesn't seem that was done.  I know these type of trucks were more problematic that the cast version, but was there something else about there demise.

Thanks,
Jay Ruppel



Re: Tru Color Paint Stripper?

Andy Harman
 

I use generic paint thinner for cleanup
and soak the business end of the airbrush in it between sessions.  But I always use the branded thinner for airbrushing regardless.

Sent from my overpriced graham cracker

On May 29, 2015, at 4:11 PM, "Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

This has been an interesting thread. I too believe that the results that Nelson reports are from too high pressure.  The pressure that I find best with TruColor is about 15-20 psi. 

Increasingly, Tru-Color is my go-to paint, very forgiving and producing a lovely smooth finish.  I too use an Iwata Eclipse, but I use removable 0.5 oz. bottles with a Paasche double-action coupling rather than a gravity feed ( I am not certain why feed type would make any difference, however). I thin Tru-Color paint 50/50 with their own brand thinner.  Other thinners might work, but IMHO the risk/cost ratio is not worth investigating.

I am not above stripping flawed paint finishes, but I believe that I would first try the other simpler methods already advised.

Denny    

Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA






Re: Tru-Color and Accu-Paint reducer

Andy Harman
 

I don't like using primer unless I have to.  Mainly light colors.  And adhesion issues aren't on my "fun challenge" list either.  Fortunately most of the colors I use frequently cover well.  Pullman green, dark blue, tuscan and freight car browns, black, and medium grays.

Sent from my overpriced graham cracker

On May 30, 2015, at 11:33 AM, "Andy Carlson midcentury@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

I use either a gray or white primer for all Accu-Paint spray jobs. Adherence is probably the weakest aspect of Accu-Paint and a primer coat is essential in my opinion. Also, the opaqueness of Accu-Paint is somewhat compromised so to get good color rendition you need a light colored primer. I like white primer for reds, yellows and orange.


Most of my Accu-Paint work is for plastic/resin items. I like to use automotive lacquer for brass, though I have some resin cars painted with lacquer which look good (but that is not what this topic is about).

From: "Mike Bauers mwbauers55@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>

 
Andy,

Does the stuff work nice with plastics ?

To give you a benchmark on that with me.......... I even get ordinary ScaleCoat paint [type-one] to work okay on plastics.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA

On May 29, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Andy Carlson midcentury@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

>
> Hello-
>
> I was convinced years ago by a Jim Six article on Accu-paint. Jim said that he reduced all of his Accu-paint with automotive lacquer thinner (much better than the hardware store lacquer thinner, which I use for clean-up) for his Accu-Paint jobs. Although a friend of mine gets good results with the hardware store thinner).
>
> I use "Hot Shop"automotive acrylic lacquer reducer. Called hot shop for use in hot weather so the lacquer won't dry before it lands on the intended surface, creating a dull finish. It is also called "Hi-Gloss" because its lower volitility stays wet longer producing a nice gloss.
>
> I am very satisfied with these results over the years, and I see no reason to change now. A gallon can is not too expensive, about what a quart of Tru-color reducer would cost. The Accu-Paint thinner had alcohol and acetone, which I believe automotive lacquer reducers also have.
> -Andy Carlson
> Ojai CA



Re: Airbrushing Acrylics

Bill Welch
 

I too use Windex as a part of my routine but 91% Isopropyl is now my final step and is more effective than the Windex. I also keep a Q-Tip saturated with the same alcohol to wipe the tip to take care of the paint build-up.

Bill Welch


Re: Airbrushing Acrylics

Andy Harman
 

Also I fully endorse Windex for any form of acrylic cleanup.  Brushes, needles, jars, hands... Works great.

Sent from my overpriced graham cracker

On May 29, 2015, at 5:21 PM, "fgexbill@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

Given the thread about handling Tru-Color paints, I cannot remember if I have ever voiced an important caveat for those that might be interested in painting with Acrylics, which I have been doing for over 20 years now on both styrene and resin.


For the first couple of years I was using a Binks "Wren" airbrush with mixed results, often having to stop and clean the airbrush. That changed when Badger introduced their "Anthem" #155 that has a .76mm Needle and Nozzle or Tip, the issue being that Acrylics require a larger opening to be sprayed successfully. If you have been unhappy with your efforts with Acrylics, you may want to invest in a new AB with a larger tip and matching need. I know Passche now offers ABs with larger openings, their Talon can be equipped with a .66mm needle/tip combo for example, and Grex has large needle/tips combos also.


The 155 is a siphon feed and I spray at 20-22 PSI.


For cleaning, after I paint, I do an initial cleanse with Distilled water w/back flush, then Windex w/back flush,  water again, and finish up with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. This last step is a recent addition and now when I pull the needle out to clean it out it is really clean of paint. Regardless I pulll the needle through a Paper Shop Towel a couple of time, apply a dab of Needle Lub and rub it between my fingers a couple of times to spread it along the length of the needle, then pull it through a paper towell to remove the excess.


Bill Welch


Need CB&Q flat car help

Jim King
 

I’m building an S scale pilot model of a CB&Q 53-6 flat car using Chad Boas’ patterns.  The kit will be released late next month.

 

None of the information included with the patterns show a brake piping diagram.  Specifically, I need to know where the reservoir was located (there are no mounting provisions on Chad’s pattern).  Nothing on Fallen Flags, CB&Q Yahoo List or CB&Q HS website and the pages scanned from a Q book provided with the pattern, are too grainy to enlarge.

 

Cars in question were built in 1942 and 3 more batches in the 1950s, all at the Q’s Havelock Shops.  Series are 89300-589, 92300-349, 92400-799 and 93000-189.  Classes were FM14 and 14A.  I have a stenciling diagram but no construction, general arrangement or brake system drawings.

 

Please reply off-list.  Thank you.

 

Jim King

(828) 777-5619

www.smokymountainmodelworks.com

 


Re: Airbrushing Acrylics

Andy Harman
 

I won a Badger as a door prize some years back, I think it's the 155.  Have never used it.  I use Scalecoat II as my preferred paint with a Paasche Millenium VL.  I've airbrushed the defunct Pollyscale with it but not as a primary coat.

Right now the only acrylic paint I will use is Tamiya, which airbrushes fine in my VL.

Sent from my overpriced graham cracker

On May 29, 2015, at 5:21 PM, "fgexbill@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

Given the thread about handling Tru-Color paints, I cannot remember if I have ever voiced an important caveat for those that might be interested in painting with Acrylics, which I have been doing for over 20 years now on both styrene and resin.


For the first couple of years I was using a Binks "Wren" airbrush with mixed results, often having to stop and clean the airbrush. That changed when Badger introduced their "Anthem" #155 that has a .76mm Needle and Nozzle or Tip, the issue being that Acrylics require a larger opening to be sprayed successfully. If you have been unhappy with your efforts with Acrylics, you may want to invest in a new AB with a larger tip and matching need. I know Passche now offers ABs with larger openings, their Talon can be equipped with a .66mm needle/tip combo for example, and Grex has large needle/tips combos also.


The 155 is a siphon feed and I spray at 20-22 PSI.


For cleaning, after I paint, I do an initial cleanse with Distilled water w/back flush, then Windex w/back flush,  water again, and finish up with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. This last step is a recent addition and now when I pull the needle out to clean it out it is really clean of paint. Regardless I pulll the needle through a Paper Shop Towel a couple of time, apply a dab of Needle Lub and rub it between my fingers a couple of times to spread it along the length of the needle, then pull it through a paper towell to remove the excess.


Bill Welch


Re: Airbrushing Acrylics

frograbbit602
 

Doug Harding wrote, A large bottle of Windex sits next to my cleaning station, ie my
paint booth sits next to a sink allowing for fast flushing and clean up. The
ammonia in the Windex cuts the acrylic paint, at least in Model-Flex.

The Windex also works great with Polly Scale in cleanup of my Paasche H, VL, Talon or Badger 105 Patriot.
Lester Breuer


Re: Tru-Color and Accu-Paint reducer

Andy Carlson
 

I use either a gray or white primer for all Accu-Paint spray jobs. Adherence is probably the weakest aspect of Accu-Paint and a primer coat is essential in my opinion. Also, the opaqueness of Accu-Paint is somewhat compromised so to get good color rendition you need a light colored primer. I like white primer for reds, yellows and orange.


Most of my Accu-Paint work is for plastic/resin items. I like to use automotive lacquer for brass, though I have some resin cars painted with lacquer which look good (but that is not what this topic is about).


From: "Mike Bauers mwbauers55@... [STMFC]"

 
Andy,

Does the stuff work nice with plastics ?

To give you a benchmark on that with me.......... I even get ordinary ScaleCoat paint [type-one] to work okay on plastics.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA

On May 29, 2015, at 9:01 PM, Andy Carlson midcentury@... [STMFC] wrote:

>
> Hello-
>
> I was convinced years ago by a Jim Six article on Accu-paint. Jim said that he reduced all of his Accu-paint with automotive lacquer thinner (much better than the hardware store lacquer thinner, which I use for clean-up) for his Accu-Paint jobs. Although a friend of mine gets good results with the hardware store thinner).
>
> I use "Hot Shop"automotive acrylic lacquer reducer. Called hot shop for use in hot weather so the lacquer won't dry before it lands on the intended surface, creating a dull finish. It is also called "Hi-Gloss" because its lower volitility stays wet longer producing a nice gloss.
>
> I am very satisfied with these results over the years, and I see no reason to change now. A gallon can is not too expensive, about what a quart of Tru-color reducer would cost. The Accu-Paint thinner had alcohol and acetone, which I believe automotive lacquer reducers also have.
> -Andy Carlson
> Ojai CA



Re: Tru-Color and Accu-Paint reducer

Andy Carlson
 



From: "'Scott H. Haycock ' who wrote:

 
But Andy,

The idea of a reducer, IIRC, also referred to as an extender, to slow the drying time, is common to many other paint usages, like furniture, woodwork, etc. Have you tried the Hi-Gloss with Tru-Color? Do you know who manufactures Hi-Gloss? It sounds like a viable product on several levels in our hobby. I want some!

Scott Haycock  


 Scott-
The auto body trade uses the word "reducer" as we would use the word "thinner". Automotive acrylic lacquer reducer is not an additive, just a thinner.

Hi-Gloss acrylic lacquer reducer use to be available in every auto body supply shop. Now that lacquer has been removed from many markets, due to its hi volatility in the effort to reduce photo-chemical smog, future availability might be in jeopardy. I have at least one unopened gallon can left. I see that the hardware store brands of lacquer thinner are still available here in Southern California. As I stated yesterday, a friend of mine uses the hardware store lacquer thinner for his Accu-Paint reducing with good results.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA








Re: Tru-Color and Accu-Paint reducer

Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
 

Relative to the real time costs  of the paint that we actually apply on our models, not to mention the imputed value of the efforts that we expend in doing so, even the cost of the small amounts of the most expensive thinner/reducer that we use is almost nothing, i.e. nothing. In this regard, my view has been for some time is to just use the thinner that the paint manufacturer recommends, and not spend time wringing my hands about it.  I do wince at the up front prices to be paid for these OEM thinners, but I also have not been disappointed in their use; and have been comforted that a little DOES in fact go a very long way- certainly ameliorating the investment.

Now, I do use up lacquer thinner by  the gallon(s) for cleaning, and in a pinch for thinning/reducing. One used to be able to go to the automotive paint stores (DuPont, Pittsburgh, etc.) and choose among a selection of very high quality lacquer thinners of differing characteristics (I once would purchase what I needed in five gallon cans). At least in California, one can no longer do so.  Commercial lacquer painting has almost disappeared, and like other volatile solvents suppressed by the government, only generic solvents in relative small amounts can be easily obtained retail-  and I do not trust them for fine painting.

Other observations:  I have long valued AP for the richness of its colors, its forgiving nature, and the very real fact that I am able (and do) use it to the very last drop, i.e.  there is almost no wastage, none, nada (if it thickens, or even dries, it can almost always be fully reconstituted it  to full use with thinner).  How many, many clotted half-filled bottles of  Floquil and ScaleCoat (ouch!)  paints have I discarded, too often after-the-fact discovering their bad characteristics on the surface of a valued model. 

TrueColor is the true inheritor of AP inasmuch as the owners report to me that they  purchased from the AP owner  (George Bishop?) or his estate all the fundamentals of the business. My experience so far with TC certainly bears this out. 

IWATA Eclipse air brush:  For 50 years, I was happy as a clam with a versatile single action Paasche H airbrush, a classic and quite venerable still-popular work of American art (whose utility is attested to by being virtually unchanged for that half a century). Then, at an NMRA convention, Dr. Bob Church and I  were both seduced by a huckster demonstrating an IWATA Eclipse double action airbrush, asking if we wanted to try it?  Well, we did, and five minutes later (no more), both of us respectively shelled out the money and walked away with a new boxed sets.   When I got home, I had buyer’s remorse, and set it aside, not to be opened and tried for some months.  Well, I did at last set it up, and I have not looked back since. What a fine instrument!  It is gorgeous to look at and handle, and it works and cleans up like a charm. It is a total pleasure to use.

The venerable and also lovely Paasche H owes me nothing, and it now resides looking new in its original box, again ready to use if called upon. 

Denny


   
Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA






ADMIN: Re: Weed sprayer thread terminated

Mikebrock
 

Doug Harding writes:

"What about a fire fighter car? Seems to me the SP had tank cars equipped with water cannon like sprayers to fight fires."

If it looks like a weed sprayer it probably is a weed spayer. In that case, it ain't a steam era frt car and, therefore, is out of scope on the STMFC. So, this thread...and any others associated with weed spayers...is out of scope. Additional messages on this subject put the message writer at risk of...shudder...Moderate Jail.

Mike Brock
STMFC Owner


Re: Weed sprayer

Douglas Harding
 

What about a fire fighter car? Seems to me the SP had tank cars equipped with water cannon like sprayers to fight fires. Is there a kit for one of these cars that might provide parts? Or perhaps a model of a fire truck or military vehicle?

 


Re: Weed sprayer

Charles Hladik
 

    When I did a PWD tar truck I used sprue  to do the bottom rear sprayer ( the only one). The ladder idea sound reasonable.
 
Chuck Hladik
 

In a message dated 5/29/2015 8:35:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

Wow! What a homely looking critter. 


Cheers,
Bill Keene
Irvine, CA



On May 29, 2015, at 5:15 PM, Clark Cooper csc@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

Rich,

Not long ago the Great Northern Hysterical Society offered a kit for just such a thing:

https://www.gnrhs.org/sold_out_kits.htm

Being a member of said Society, I have one of those kits. The illustrated directions have you fabricating something out of the included styrene rod and some brass wire. Doesn't look very complicated. If you want a copy of that page, let me know.

-Clark Cooper
(the other Iowa Clark)
On May 29, 2015, at 7:05 PM, richtownsend@... [STMFC] wrote:

> 
> For the track level sprayers, cut down ladders is exactly what I am planning on using. It's the topside sprayers, which look like some kind of cannons, that are the problem. And, yes, I have looked for cannons that would work (from military model sites) but I have not found any suitable ones.
>  
> Richard Townsend 
> Lincoln City, Oregon
>  



Re: Tru-Color and Accu-Paint reducer

Tim O'Connor
 

Scott you must be new :-)

Accupaint, Star (P-B-L), and TruColor are (were) all made by the same
industrial supplier and are essentially the same although ratios of thinner
and retarder do seem to vary. (I used to watch George Bishop bottle his
Accupaint and he would dilute the paint while bottling.) The supplier was
originally 'discovered' by Fred Becker of Front Range -- good to know if
you ever need to strip an old Front Range model.

Tim O'Connor

---------------------------------

Are you saying that these two brands are similar enough that
automotive lacquer thinner works equally well with each?
Scott Haycock


Re: Tru-Color and Accu-Paint reducer

Scott H. Haycock
 

But Andy,
You're talking about Accu-Paint. I thought the conversation was about Tru-Color.

Are you saying that these two brands are similar enough that automotive lacquer thinner works equally well with each?

The idea of a reducer, IIRC, also referred to as an extender, to slow the drying time, is common to many other paint usages, like furniture, woodwork, etc. Have you tried the Hi-Gloss with Tru-Color? Do you know who manufactures Hi-Gloss? It sounds like a viable product on several levels in our hobby. I want some!

Scott Haycock  


 

Hello-

I was convinced years ago by a Jim Six article on Accu-paint. Jim said that he reduced all of his Accu-paint with automotive lacquer thinner (much better than the hardware store lacquer thinner, which I use for clean-up) for his Accu-Paint jobs. Although a friend of mine gets good results with the hardware store thinner).

I use "Hot Shop"automotive acrylic lacquer reducer. Called hot shop for use in hot weather so the lacquer won't dry before it lands on the intended surface, creating a dull finish. It is also called "Hi-Gloss" because its lower volitility stays wet longer producing a nice gloss.

I am very satisfied with these results over the years, and I see no reason to change now. A gallon can is not too expensive, about what a quart of Tru-color reducer would cost. The Accu-Paint thinner had alcohol and acetone, which I believe automotive lacquer reducers also have.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA



Re: dental wax

mwbauers
 

There's also a two-part silicone putty from the regular molding and casting guys.

Make two equal balls, kneed them together, press on the object....... and wait five minutes. You get a silicone mold.

Both Smooth-on and Alumilite have it.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On May 29, 2015, at 5:29 PM, Charles Peck lnnrr152@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:


There is a material called dental impression putty. Two part stuff like an epoxy.
Available from many sources including Amazon.  I have no experience at using it.
Chuck Peck

On Fri, May 29, 2015 at 6:12 PM, Mark P Stamm mark@... [STMFC]<STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Micro Mark carries a rubber mold making material that is reusable.  You heat the rubber material in the microwave pour your mold, cast and than you can create a new mold by reheating the mold material in the microwave. I have not tried it but it seems like an interesting solution to creating molds. 

Mark P Stamm
Mark at Euphoriatt dot Com

Sent from my mobile device

On May 29, 2015, at 2:50 PM, edb8391@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Ed and all,

When I had impressions taken for making a 5 unit bridge for my lower right jaw in 2005, the dentist used a hard setting epoxy-like resin.  It was sort of purple in color, very soft and mushy when put on. Remarkably hard when set.  I don't know if dental wax is made or used anymore.


Ed Bommer

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