Date   

Re: PM ARA-style box car

Richard Hendrickson
 

Richard Hendrickson's December 2001 RMJ article on PM, C&O, Erie etc. box cars
based on the ARA design seemed to have been cut off by the editor. There was
no TEXT about modeling any of the cars, or modeling options, but there were
two photos of his PM model made from an RC dreadnaught end X29, with a
Hutchins roof from an Accurail single-sheathed box car. (The missing text
left the reader to figure out where the roof came from; but I had already
heard about the car from him.)
Sorry, Scott. Whoeveer did the layout should have saved the photos for the
next issue, where the rest of the article appeared (with the information
that was missing from part 1)

Will Accurail sell those car bodies separately, (side or end defects are OK!)
or should I scan the bargain bins? Or is there a separately-available resin
version of the roof?
AFAIK, the Accurail bodies aren't available separately, but kits (or
assembled models) aren't all that expensive (especially at swap meets) and
you can use other parts (e.g. the trucks) as well.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: Sunshine kit/decal question

Jim or Lisa Hayes <jim-and-lisa@...>
 

In my opinion each Sunshine chalk mark decal sheet contains enough chalk
marks for at least a dozen cars, maybe two dozen, depending on how many you
use per car.

--
Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon


Repack stencils

David Soderblom
 

Reweighs were every 48 months (sometimes less per individual RR policy) and
generally done by the owning road. Repacks were every 12 months, so you're
about as likely to see a foreign (off-road) repack stencil as not.

In an RMJ article, Richard suggested using N scale decals for repacks.
Two-inch lettering in N is about the needed one-inch in HO, and once it's on
your layout nobody's going to actually read it anyway.

Dave Soderblom
Baltimore MD


Re: painting resin kits?

Stafford Swain <sswain@...>
 

Hi:

Back to my pal John Morris again, he too uses a grit blaster as part of his resin and brass finishing processes. These days his grit of choice is of all things baking soda.

> Grit blasting resin works wonders too. ;o)

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
I agree. However, IIRC, the original poster did not have a spray booth in
his budget, let alone a grit blaster. I don't bother to wash the castings
anymore - the grit blasting cleans off the release agent sufficiently. The
"tooth" from the grit blasting is great for paint adhesion. I've been using
ModelFlex acrylics lately, and you have to really scratch hard to marr the
painted finish when it is dry on a grit blasted surface. I think the
microscopic "tooth" does more than just promote paint adhesion, but causes
the paint to lay down better by breaking the surface tension of the wet
paint droplets. The last statement is in the theory stage now, but I think
there is something to it after observing beading when trying to hand-paint a
non-grit blasted surface.

At least for me, the grit blaster has become an indispensible tool as far as
painting models is concerned.

Jack Wyatt


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Stafford Swain
26 Kenneth Street
Winnipeg, MB, Canada
R3T 0K8
(204) 477-9246
sswain@mts.net


Re: Painting Resin Kits

Stafford Swain <sswain@...>
 

I can confirm isopropyl alcohol seems to work well on most resin kits.

A friend of mine (John Morris) came up with a fast, non-invasive way of applying same to resin castings.

John uses a one-inch or so size foam brush (standard hardware/paint store stuff), loads it with alcohol, and then swabs all surface of the castings before the de-flashing and assembly steps. The foam brush (1) won't damage castings and (2) will hold enough alcohol inside the foam block that the usual rapid evaporation of alcohol isn't an issue.

. . and it isn't a bad idea to re-swab the "decks" of the completed model before painting.

Wipe them down with alcohol prior to painting. Once the parts are dry you
can paint.

Dayna


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Stafford Swain
26 Kenneth Street
Winnipeg, MB, Canada
R3T 0K8
(204) 477-9246
sswain@mts.net


Re: painting resin kits?

C J Wyatt
 

Grit blasting resin works wonders too. ;o)

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
I agree. However, IIRC, the original poster did not have a spray booth in
his budget, let alone a grit blaster. I don't bother to wash the castings
anymore - the grit blasting cleans off the release agent sufficiently. The
"tooth" from the grit blasting is great for paint adhesion. I've been using
ModelFlex acrylics lately, and you have to really scratch hard to marr the
painted finish when it is dry on a grit blasted surface. I think the
microscopic "tooth" does more than just promote paint adhesion, but causes
the paint to lay down better by breaking the surface tension of the wet
paint droplets. The last statement is in the theory stage now, but I think
there is something to it after observing beading when trying to hand-paint a
non-grit blasted surface.

At least for me, the grit blaster has become an indispensible tool as far as
painting models is concerned.

Jack Wyatt


Painting Resin Kits

Randy <pennsy@...>
 

Wipe them down with alcohol prior to painting. Once the parts are dry you
can paint.

Dayna


Re: SLSF box car paint scheme

Chris Abernathy
 

Greetings. I'm a newbie and a young whippersnapper when it comes to
steam-era freight cars, but this is a topic of interest to me.

The tan/brown "Frisco Fast Freight" scheme was apparently applied
after many of the Frisco's USRA Double-Sheathed boxcars were rebuilt
between 1935-1941 in Springfield, MO. Sunshine's notes (from my Kit
4.1 for the boxcar red version) cite photos as confirming the
tan/brown scheme on: 127079, 128000, 128046, 129171 and 130159.

This scheme apparently started disappearing in the late 1940s; I
would have to guess 1946-1947 based on a story Joe Collias tells
in "Frisco Power." A similar "FFF" logo was applied to the tenders
of the 4500-class 4-8-4 locomotives; newly elected President Clark
Hungerford, while inspecting the St. Louis (Lindenwood) enginehouse
apparently remarked "How much tonnage does this pull? Get it off!"
So, I would make a guess that boxcar logos started disappearing
around this time or shortly thereafter.

Regards,

Chris Abernathy
Columbia, MO
(Modeling the Frisco's River Division in HO-Scale c. 1943)
--- In STMFC@y..., "Kevin Lafferty" <KevinHLafferty@a...> wrote:
According to Martin Lofton's data sheet from the Sunshine kit for
these cars
they regularly traveled off line. Apparently only some of the cars
painted
in this scheme were intended for LCL service. The photos I have of
these
cars show them stenciled with complete dimensional and capacity
data.

Kevin Lafferty


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Hendrickson [mailto:rhendrickson@o...]
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 5:46 PM
To: STMFC@y...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] SLSF box car paint scheme

On pages 888 & 889 of RY AGE for May 25, 1940 is a black & white
photograph of four SLSF all-steel box cars. All four of these
cars
have dark roofs, ends, doors and side sills with light colored
sides. FFF inside a circle is on the side to the right of the
door
on each car. The only legible car number is 129801.

Does anyone know if this is just another builder's photo with non-
standard paint or did the Frisco have such a paint scheme in
regular
service? Would these cars have been in some captive service?
Gene, this was the standard paint scheme on a series of cars
rebuilt by the
SL-SF for merchandise freight service. The sides were tan, the
ends and
roofs were brown, and the lettering was brown and orange. I don't
know how
many cars were assigned to this service or wehther they went off-
line.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: Sunshine kit/decal question

Scott Pitzer
 

Martin has some pretty specific chalk mark sets. I assume "Washington DC
1948" is based on the Charles Wales photos. But if one of the cars recorded
there was a MoPac 1932 AAR-design car, the chalk marks could have gone to a
"Southwestern" set, or the "1932 AAR box cars" set. And a particular mark on
that car might have been applied on the GN!
Maybe there's a Byron Rose of chalk marks-- "That mark couldn't POSSIBLY
appear on an ACL gon hauling scrap metal through North Carolina in the Summer
of 1952..."
Scott Pitzer

Tim O'Connor wrote:

Whether chalkmarks can be certifiably
attributed to a specific
railroad, I'll leave that question to the
experts.


Re: C&BT cars with 4/4 ends and 8' doors (Help) was DL&W Boxcars

Schuyler G Larrabee <SGL2@...>
 

Who can sleep when there's Freight Cars to discuss???

8^)

SGL

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian J Carlson" <brian@bluemoon.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 1:04 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] C&BT cars with 4/4 ends and 8' doors (Help) was DL&W
Boxcars


I forgot to mention the car also has a rectangular panel roof, so to recap
what cars had riveted 12 panel sides, 8'door openings, (I misread the scale
rule too, but give me a break it is 1 am) rectangular roofs, and 4/4 ends
with the top rib extending the full width of the end.

Brian, (who is wondering why Tim and Schuyler are still up also?)
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian J Carlson
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] C&BT cars with 4/4 ends and 7' doors (Help) was
DL&W Boxcars


Thanks Tim, I forgot to check George's site. After looking at George's
site I noticed that all the riveted 12 panel DL&W cars on his site have
4/3/1 ends. The question I have now is who had 12 panel riveted cars with
7' doors and 4/4 ends?

Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim O'Connor
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] DL&W Boxcars



Brian, DL&W had several groups of 12 panel box cars. According
to my information, all of them had 8 foot doors. But specifically
I show 55500-55899 built 1956 by ACF, with WELDED sides. My info
on this series is from 8/1992 RMJ, and from scans of 55522 & 55690
which I probably got from G. Elwood's web site. The RMJ article
has a photo of 55699. They had R+3/4 tapered rib dreadnaught ends,
Ajax brakewheels, and Apex (grid style) running boards.

CNJ and Wabash had welded 12 panel cars with 7 foot doors. I don't
know of any that had riveted sides with 7 foot doors -- but they
could be out there. My info is very incomplete.


At 11:43 PM 11/30/2002, you wrote:
>I have two C&BT 40' boxcar kits for the DL&W. The kits are car
numbers
>55612, 55732, and both have build dates in 1946. The cars have
Interim
>Improved 4/4 Dreadnaught ends, 7' doors, and are 12 panel cars. I am
trying
>to determine if the DL&W actually owned these types of cars.
Ihaven't been
>able to find photo's of these cars in the resources I have, mostly
old RMJ
>issues, and Bob's Photo's. The one Bob's photo I have is of car 55203
which
>is a 12 panel car built in 1957, (DL&W cars in RMJ have different
number
>series) I can not tell if the end is the same but since the build
date is
>10 years later I doubt it.


Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


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Re: painting resin kits?

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Grit blasting resin works wonders too. ;o)


Hello, A question for all you resin kit builders on the list, do you do
anything other than soap & water cleanup prior to painting?
Soap and warm water are usually enough but there have been several occasions
with Sunshine kits where I felt the mold release was still on the castings
and those I soaked in ordinary paint thinner before assembly.

Dave Nelson

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: C&BT cars with 4/4 ends and 8' doors (Help)

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

At 01:04 AM 12/1/2002, you wrote:
I forgot to mention the car also has a rectangular panel roof, so to recap what cars had riveted 12 panel sides, 8'door openings, (I misread the scale rule too, but give me a break it is 1 am) rectangular roofs, and 4/4 ends with the top rib extending the full width of the end.
Ok, so you've got 4/4 "rolling pin" ends, an 8 foot door,
riveted 12 panel sides, and a rectangular panel roof?? Try
Railmodel Journal 10/1999 -- I think you will find there
is no prototype combination that matches it. Six foot doors,
yes. But not eight foot. (The publisher screwed up Ed's data
table so you have to read it carefully.)



Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: C&BT cars with 4/4 ends and 8' doors (Help) was DL&W Boxcars

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

I forgot to mention the car also has a rectangular panel roof, so to recap what cars had riveted 12 panel sides, 8'door openings, (I misread the scale rule too, but give me a break it is 1 am) rectangular roofs, and 4/4 ends with the top rib extending the full width of the end.

Brian, (who is wondering why Tim and Schuyler are still up also?)

----- Original Message -----
From: Brian J Carlson
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 12:58 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] C&BT cars with 4/4 ends and 7' doors (Help) was DL&W Boxcars


Thanks Tim, I forgot to check George's site. After looking at George's site I noticed that all the riveted 12 panel DL&W cars on his site have 4/3/1 ends. The question I have now is who had 12 panel riveted cars with 7' doors and 4/4 ends?

Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim O'Connor
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] DL&W Boxcars



Brian, DL&W had several groups of 12 panel box cars. According
to my information, all of them had 8 foot doors. But specifically
I show 55500-55899 built 1956 by ACF, with WELDED sides. My info
on this series is from 8/1992 RMJ, and from scans of 55522 & 55690
which I probably got from G. Elwood's web site. The RMJ article
has a photo of 55699. They had R+3/4 tapered rib dreadnaught ends,
Ajax brakewheels, and Apex (grid style) running boards.

CNJ and Wabash had welded 12 panel cars with 7 foot doors. I don't
know of any that had riveted sides with 7 foot doors -- but they
could be out there. My info is very incomplete.


At 11:43 PM 11/30/2002, you wrote:
>I have two C&BT 40' boxcar kits for the DL&W. The kits are car numbers
>55612, 55732, and both have build dates in 1946. The cars have Interim
>Improved 4/4 Dreadnaught ends, 7' doors, and are 12 panel cars. I am trying
>to determine if the DL&W actually owned these types of cars. Ihaven't been
>able to find photo's of these cars in the resources I have, mostly old RMJ
>issues, and Bob's Photo's. The one Bob's photo I have is of car 55203 which
>is a 12 panel car built in 1957, (DL&W cars in RMJ have different number
>series) I can not tell if the end is the same but since the build date is
>10 years later I doubt it.


Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


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Re: DL&W Boxcars

Schuyler G Larrabee <SGL2@...>
 

I can verify that Tim's correct here. DL&W had no 7' door cars, as far as I
can find. Some 6', most 8', no 7'.

SGL

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim O'Connor" <timoconnor@attbi.com>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] DL&W Boxcars



Brian, DL&W had several groups of 12 panel box cars. According
to my information, all of them had 8 foot doors. But specifically
I show 55500-55899 built 1956 by ACF, with WELDED sides. My info
on this series is from 8/1992 RMJ, and from scans of 55522 & 55690
which I probably got from G. Elwood's web site. The RMJ article
has a photo of 55699. They had R+3/4 tapered rib dreadnaught ends,
Ajax brakewheels, and Apex (grid style) running boards.

CNJ and Wabash had welded 12 panel cars with 7 foot doors. I don't
know of any that had riveted sides with 7 foot doors -- but they
could be out there. My info is very incomplete.


At 11:43 PM 11/30/2002, you wrote:
I have two C&BT 40' boxcar kits for the DL&W. The kits are car numbers
55612, 55732, and both have build dates in 1946. The cars have Interim
Improved 4/4 Dreadnaught ends, 7' doors, and are 12 panel cars. I am
trying
to determine if the DL&W actually owned these types of cars. Ihaven't
been
able to find photo's of these cars in the resources I have, mostly old
RMJ
issues, and Bob's Photo's. The one Bob's photo I have is of car 55203
which
is a 12 panel car built in 1957, (DL&W cars in RMJ have different number
series) I can not tell if the end is the same but since the build date
is
10 years later I doubt it.

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


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Re: C&BT cars with 4/4 ends and 7' doors (Help) was DL&W Boxcars

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

Thanks Tim, I forgot to check George's site. After looking at George's site I noticed that all the riveted 12 panel DL&W cars on his site have 4/3/1 ends. The question I have now is who had 12 panel riveted cars with 7' doors and 4/4 ends?

Brian

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim O'Connor
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] DL&W Boxcars



Brian, DL&W had several groups of 12 panel box cars. According
to my information, all of them had 8 foot doors. But specifically
I show 55500-55899 built 1956 by ACF, with WELDED sides. My info
on this series is from 8/1992 RMJ, and from scans of 55522 & 55690
which I probably got from G. Elwood's web site. The RMJ article
has a photo of 55699. They had R+3/4 tapered rib dreadnaught ends,
Ajax brakewheels, and Apex (grid style) running boards.

CNJ and Wabash had welded 12 panel cars with 7 foot doors. I don't
know of any that had riveted sides with 7 foot doors -- but they
could be out there. My info is very incomplete.


At 11:43 PM 11/30/2002, you wrote:
>I have two C&BT 40' boxcar kits for the DL&W. The kits are car numbers
>55612, 55732, and both have build dates in 1946. The cars have Interim
>Improved 4/4 Dreadnaught ends, 7' doors, and are 12 panel cars. I am trying
>to determine if the DL&W actually owned these types of cars. Ihaven't been
>able to find photo's of these cars in the resources I have, mostly old RMJ
>issues, and Bob's Photo's. The one Bob's photo I have is of car 55203 which
>is a 12 panel car built in 1957, (DL&W cars in RMJ have different number
>series) I can not tell if the end is the same but since the build date is
>10 years later I doubt it.


Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


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Re: painting resin kits?

Dave Nelson <muskoka@...>
 

-----Original Message-----
From: BlackDiamondRR@cs.com [mailto:BlackDiamondRR@cs.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 4:35 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: painting resin kits?


Hello, A question for all you resin kit builders on the list, do you do
anything other than soap & water cleanup prior to painting?
Soap and warm water are usually enough but there have been several occasions
with Sunshine kits where I felt the mold release was still on the castings
and those I soaked in ordinary paint thinner before assembly.

Dave Nelson


Re: DL&W Boxcars

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Brian, DL&W had several groups of 12 panel box cars. According
to my information, all of them had 8 foot doors. But specifically
I show 55500-55899 built 1956 by ACF, with WELDED sides. My info
on this series is from 8/1992 RMJ, and from scans of 55522 & 55690
which I probably got from G. Elwood's web site. The RMJ article
has a photo of 55699. They had R+3/4 tapered rib dreadnaught ends,
Ajax brakewheels, and Apex (grid style) running boards.

CNJ and Wabash had welded 12 panel cars with 7 foot doors. I don't
know of any that had riveted sides with 7 foot doors -- but they
could be out there. My info is very incomplete.


At 11:43 PM 11/30/2002, you wrote:
I have two C&BT 40' boxcar kits for the DL&W. The kits are car numbers
55612, 55732, and both have build dates in 1946. The cars have Interim
Improved 4/4 Dreadnaught ends, 7' doors, and are 12 panel cars. I am trying
to determine if the DL&W actually owned these types of cars. Ihaven't been
able to find photo's of these cars in the resources I have, mostly old RMJ
issues, and Bob's Photo's. The one Bob's photo I have is of car 55203 which
is a 12 panel car built in 1957, (DL&W cars in RMJ have different number
series) I can not tell if the end is the same but since the build date is
10 years later I doubt it.

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Sunshine kit/decal question

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Brian,

I can answer which railroads are covered by the reweigh decals.
Whether chalkmarks can be certifiably attributed to a specific
railroad, I'll leave that question to the experts.

Sunshine reweigh (and other small data) decals --

E.51 Mid-Atlantic B&O C&O N&W PRR VGN S&A RF&P SOU WM ERIE RDG CRR
E.52 Mid-Western C&EI MILW SOO C&NW RI PRR CB&Q ALTON
E.53 Western AT&SF SP UP SLSF CMO PRR
E.54 Northeast D&H DL&W NYC NH ERIE LV P&E PMcK&Y MP P&LE IHB
E.55 Southwest MP T&P SLSF MKT AT&SF SSW
E.56 Southeast ACL SAL SOU G&F FGE C&G COFG L&N NC&STL L&A M&A
E.57 Northwest GN WFEX FGEX NP MILW SOO CB&Q UP SP&S
E.? black C&O SP NP RDG T&P B&O PRR SOU SOO P&LE IHB ATSF MP CB&Q ERIE
E.? PFE guess

Who is missing from this lineup? WP D&RGW KCS L&A IC ART MDT to name a few.
MP has some tiny stencils (repaint?) on the Northeastern set, which is why
I listed it there as well as on the Southwestern set.


At 10:22 PM 11/30/2002, you wrote:
While finally organizing the many Bob's photo's and other freight car
picture I have purchased over the past few years I realized that the one
detail many of my cars are missing is Chalk mark's and repainted
packing/reweigh dates. I noticed that the sunshine list on the website
included decals for reweigh and chalk marks. My question is how useful are
these decals, and how many cars can be decaled with each set. I am thinking
of getting 6 or so sets and wondered how many copies of each I should
purchase. For reference I model the PRR between Renovo and Erie in 1957, as
well as part of the NYC Valley Branch, and the Erie mainline

Brian J Carlson
Cheektowaga NY

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@attbi.com>
Sterling, Massachusetts


DL&W Boxcars

Brian J Carlson <brian@...>
 

I have two C&BT 40' boxcar kits for the DL&W. The kits are car numbers
55612, 55732, and both have build dates in 1946. The cars have Interim
Improved 4/4 Dreadnaught ends, 7' doors, and are 12 panel cars. I am trying
to determine if the DL&W actually owned these types of cars. Ihaven't been
able to find photo's of these cars in the resources I have, mostly old RMJ
issues, and Bob's Photo's. The one Bob's photo I have is of car 55203 which
is a 12 panel car built in 1957, (DL&W cars in RMJ have different number
series) I can not tell if the end is the same but since the build date is
10 years later I doubt it.

Any and all help would be appreciated.

If it turns out the DL&W did not own these cars (I hope they did), I would
appreciate information about any other appropriate road for these cars. I
have only been able to find one 7' car photo, WP, however the car has 10
panels.

Brian J Carlson
Cheektowaga NY


Re: True Sander

Scott A. Reed <lildiggr@...>
 

This is a PS to my earlier message.
The instructions recommend using double stick tape, but try the Ducco cement
idea.
Scott A. Reed

----- Original Message -----
From: "Clark Propst" <cepropst@netconx.net>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 5:26 PM
Subject: [STMFC] True Sander


What's the best way to adhere replacement sand paper to the NWSL True
Sander?
Thanks,
Clark


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