Date   

Re: Army vehicles on flat cars and CNW rip track

Jack Mullen
 

The location is the South Rip of Proviso Yard. There were two rip facilities at Proviso in the steam era, one in a more or less central position near the east end of the hump yard, and this, at the south side of the yards. It seems the north rip handled defect repairs only, while the south rip also did light program work such as the upgrading seen in progress here.  The green cars are 40' milk cars. No longer needed in large numbers, many were rehabbed to serve as insulated boxcars, some in wet pulp service for the paper industry in Wisconsin. Some of the finished cars are seen in the foreground of this shot, one of my favorites to cite when the discussion turns to perfect color matching.
The caption for the photo Gary linked is "The regular tracks of the South Yards, at C & NW RR's Proviso (?) yard, Chicago, Ill."  I think "regular" is probably a misreading of "repair" in Delano's original notes.

Jack Mullen



---In STMFC@..., <tony@...> wrote :

gary laakso wrote:

 
and what appears to be a CNW rip track:

     This photo (LC-USW-36-552) is a different angle from one we looked at recently, LC-USW-36-721, obviously the same location. One might have expected them to be adjacent physical locations in the FSA-OWI collection, but evidently not. Here's a link:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






FS: Red Caboose HO DL&W 1937 AAR Boxcar

pennsylvania1954
 


For Sale is Red Caboose DL&W boxcar 51478 from series 51400-51740. The model was produced as a painted kit and is now fully assembled with added weight, added details, correct Kadee trucks, #158 scale couplers, and Dullcoted ready for your weathering. The modeled car was BLT 1-45 and reweighed B 8-55. The model has the large LACKAWANNA to the left of the door so it can be assumed the car was also repainted at this last shop visit. Added details include Laserkit wood running board, Kadee Equipco brake wheel, Detail Associates cut levers, and A Line stirrup steps. Offered for $30 including shipping. Paypal, check, or MO. Please contact off list stevehprr “at” cox “dot” net.


Steve Hoxie

Pensacola FL



RPM Valley Forge layout visits

Eric Hansmann
 

A self-guided home layout tour capped the RPM Valley Forge activities. The latest blog post shares some views of the model railroads I was able to visit. Check it out.

 

http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/2016/04/02/layout-visits/

 

 

Eric Hansmann

El Paso, TX


Re: Army vehicles on flat cars and CNW rip track

Tony Thompson
 

gary laakso wrote:

 
and what appears to be a CNW rip track:

     This photo (LC-USW-36-552) is a different angle from one we looked at recently, LC-USW-36-721, obviously the same location. One might have expected them to be adjacent physical locations in the FSA-OWI collection, but evidently not. Here's a link:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

Mark Vinski
 

I just tried MEK on a P2K E unit and it seemed to make a good bond.


Mark Vinski


Army vehicles on flat cars and CNW rip track

gary laakso
 

Top picture features army vehicles on flatcars:
 
 
and what appears to be a CNW rip track:
 
 
gary laakso
south of Mike Brock


Follow the Money

John Barry
 

Thoughts on where to find more information on traffic and car loadings.  The post contains links to the Santa Fe form index for 1927, 47, 58 and 75.


 
John Barry
 
ATSF North Bay Lines 
Golden Gates & Fast Freights 

707-490-9696 

PO Box 44736 
Washington, DC 20026-4736


Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

Tim O'Connor
 


There are a number of ways to prepare the surface -- it depends on what
is being bonded, and the condition of the surface. All CA's are affected
by moisture in the air, or on the surfaces, or by oxides or 'films' on
the surface. Good preparation of surfaces will make for stronger bonds.
Online advice says that thin layers of CA work best.

The Wikipedia page mentions that Loctite "gel" CA contains rubber compounds
which I didn't know. I guess this creates a more flexible bond? I wonder if
this would work ok for etched running boards...

Tim O'



When living in Virginia�2009 and before�I��I tried Cyanopoxy as it was called then twice and never had any success with it. It was supposedly fresh which I understand is important. It was packaged in a quantity I could not imagine using up before it might go bad and was pricey. I cannot remember why I went for it a second time, maybe because I thought I might have done something wrong.

Loctite has a similar two-part product, a "felt tip applicator" to prepare the surface and the cement in a conventional tube. Much more affordable and it worked for me. I found it at Lowe's/Home Depot.

Bill Welch


Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

Bill Welch
 

When living in Virginia—2009 and before—I tried Cyanopoxy as it was called then twice and never had any success with it. It was supposedly fresh which I understand is important. It was packaged in a quantity I could not imagine using up before it might go bad and was pricey. I cannot remember why I went for it a second time, maybe because I thought I might have done something wrong.

Loctite has a similar two-part product, a "felt tip applicator" to prepare the surface and the cement in a conventional tube. Much more affordable and it worked for me. I found it at Lowe's/Home Depot.

Bill Welch


Light cured glue RE: Re: CEMENT FOR PLASTIC MODELS

nvrr49@...
 

Basically, it is the resin used in an SLA printer. I have used the resin in a printer, not as a glue.

Kent in KC
nvrr49.blogspot.com


Glue for P2K E unit pilot

Rossiter, Mark W <Mark.Rossiter@...>
 

Dave, have you considered contacting Walthers (who took over the P2K line) to see if it’s possible to get a replacement pilot?  If they have them, that would be way better than trying to glue the parts back together. 

 

Mark Rossiter

 


Re: 3 new items from Yarmouth Model Works

Michael Gross
 

Looking very good, Pierre!!!


Re: 3 new items from Yarmouth Model Works

Tim O'Connor
 

It never occured to me that the tank car straps came in different
widths. Any suggestions as to how one determines which width to use?
Would it vary with gallonage and/or diameter of the tank?

Tim O'Connor

Happy Friday all.
On my blog,
http://elgincarshops.blogspot.ca/2016/04/new-items-from-yarmouth-model-works.html
there's an announcement about 3 new detail parts from Yarmouth Model Works.
Have a look, I hope you find them useful.
Cheers

--
Pierre Oliver


Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

Todd Sullivan
 

Hi Dave,

Apologies - I didn't realize you were down under.  As another thought, I've had better than average results with Plastruct orange label cement - the one for styrene and ABS.  From the smell, it seems to have plexiglass in solution, and that helps secure parts together better than other brands.  The old Ambroid Plasticweld also did a better job, but I can't find that anymore.

Todd.



From: "'David North' david.north@... [STMFC]"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:38 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

 
Hi Dave,
Mike Rose sells a kind of epoxy ("Cypoxy") that is not cheap but apparently creates a strong molecular bond between most materials, and seems particularly good on most plastics, even engineering plastics. You can find it on Mike's web site for Mike Rose Hobbies at http://www.mrhobby.com/ http://www.mrhobby.com/ .
Todd Sullivan
 
HI Todd,
Thanks for your suggestion.
I was hoping to find a glue that would ‘weld’ th joint.
I may have to look at an epoxy.
I tried the product Mike sells a few years ago with poor results.
Cost a fortune to get here (Australia) and it went off very quickly.
I think the current product may be different, but I’m a bit gun shy.
Cheers
Dave



Re: CEMENT FOR PLASTIC MODELS

Jack Burgess
 

Yes..so far it hasn't worked on the items I tried it on. It cured but easily
peeled off.



Jack Burgess



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 3:58 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: CEMENT FOR PLASTIC MODELS








Has anyone tried the glue that is cured with an ultra violet light -
included in the blister pack?

Cheers

Dave North


Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

David North
 

Hi Dave,
Mike Rose sells a kind of epoxy ("Cypoxy") that is not cheap but apparently creates a strong molecular bond between most materials, and seems particularly good on most plastics, even engineering plastics. You can find it on Mike's web site for Mike Rose Hobbies at http://www.mrhobby.com/ http://www.mrhobby.com/ .
Todd Sullivan

 

HI Todd,

Thanks for your suggestion.

I was hoping to find a glue that would ‘weld’ th joint.

I may have to look at an epoxy.

I tried the product Mike sells a few years ago with poor results.

Cost a fortune to get here (Australia) and it went off very quickly.

I think the current product may be different, but I’m a bit gun shy.

Cheers

Dave


Champ HT-62 decals (Heinz)

Richard Townsend
 

Not too long ago, thinking I would never have a need for them, I sold my only set of Champ decals for the Heinz closed side pickle car (HT-62). Recently I have seen photos of such cars on the Colorado & Southern line I model at the time I model. So now I do have a use for the decals, but no source.
 
So: does anyone have an extra set or a suggestion as to a source. Other scales (i.e. O or S) would work as I can scan and reduce them as I have done for my Becco Peroxide tank car.
 
Moral: Hang onto it. It might come in handy some day.
 
Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


XM 32 CB&Q 5-47 blt 40' box car doors

Andy Carlson
 

Tim is right (this time). I swapped in my thinking the pre-war with the post-war 5/6/6. You can add to Tim's CB&Q numbers; I have a builder's photo of #35000, also with a 5/6/6 IYD. What I haven't seen is any with an "upside-down" 6/6/5 door.
Any kit I ship will have the 5/6/6 IYD.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA.
Thanks for the clarification


From: "Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC]"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] XM 32 CB&Q 5-47 blt HO 40' box car kits with enhancements

 

photos --

   CB&Q 35314, 36008, 36157, 36825 -- 5/6/6 (top to bottom) postwar doors
   CB&Q 35560 -- 5 panel Superior doors (bottom panel very slightly smaller)

I've never seen one with a pre-war door of any kind. Just sayin'



David-
I too, thought they had the upside-down doors. When I first offered these kits I offered them with the South West Scale 6/6/5 "upside down" door until Nelson Moyer sent me photos showing a few examples of the 35000-36999 class with pre-war 5/6/5-T doors.

Anyone getting these kits from me can certainly get the 6/6/5 SWS doors. I also have FW&D and CS CDS lettering sets.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA



Re: Glue for P2K E unit pilot

David North
 

Dave,
Which Plastruct did you use? The White Label PS is only good for Styrene,
but the Orange label PS should work on styrene or ABS. (The pink label is
not good for much).
Regards ,
Andy Miller

 

 

 

Hi Andrew,

I used the orange label.

It had no effect on the pilot material.

 

To test the glue, I scraped a small area on th back of the pilot to take the shiny surface off the plastic.

I then rubbed a micro brush loaded with Plastruct orange on the scraped surface.

I expected to see the surface soften and get a bit gooey.

But nothing happened – it was like wiping water on the material.

 

I’m somewhat baffled by this stuff.

Maybe its not ABS?

Thanks for your advice.

Cheers

Dave


Re: CEMENT FOR PLASTIC MODELS

David North
 

Has anyone tried the glue that is cured with an ultra violet light – included in the blister pack?

Cheers

Dave North

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