Date   

Re: NYCSHS Central Headlight 2nd Qtr 2016 - NYC Automobile Cars 1916-1953

riverman_vt@...
 

Hello Ben, 

    Thanks very much for posting the three NYC auto-box photos. Is #56000 a rebuild of one of the type
initially constructed as double sheathed cars from 1916? Can't believe it was built in 1917 in a form as
shown. Presumedly #63149 is a second rebuild of the #56000 style to gain an extra 6 in. in height and
the #70000 series were constructed new in late 1947 to replace older cars with the 10 ft. 6 in. IH. I'm
wondering if the #70000 type might be kitbashed from a C&BT car and will have to check my stock of
same. The car is new enough so it would not even need any weathering for my 1948 modeling period! 
The air reservoir on #70000 is clearly visible below the end of the righthand door but the three dark
spots to the left of it make me think they might be tubes for tie down chains. with three on each side 
of the car. Can you enlighten me on this and the type of ends used on these cars? 

    I find the #63149 interesting for what appears to be a more substantial, or rugged, method of 
extending the roof than that seen on the Santa Fe cars like those offered in the Westerfield line 
which I raised a question about a few weeks ago.

Thanks again, Don Valentine


---In STMFC@..., <b.hom@...> wrote :

Fran Giacoma asked:
"Enjoyed the subject article and would like to add a car to run on my HO 1956 B&O Shenandoah SD layout. I'd like to model the later (1940's) all steel, 40' car. What HO car would be a good starting point?"

Which cars?  The Spec 953A/Lot 760-B cars:
 


Re: NYCSHS Central Headlight 2nd Qtr 2016 - NYC Automobile Cars 1916-1953

Benjamin Hom
 

Fran Giacoma asked:
"Enjoyed the subject article and would like to add a car to run on my HO 1956 B&O Shenandoah SD layout. I'd like to model the later (1940's) all steel, 40' car. What HO car would be a good starting point?"

Which cars?  The Spec 953A/Lot 760-B cars:


Re: Request for help on new project-ACF 40 boxcar with Car-builders roof

O Fenton Wells
 

Bless you or great sage!!!!   ;>)

On Sun, May 29, 2016 at 12:17 PM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Patience Grasshopper, I am pretty sure these are in the works from one of our Resin purveyors.

Bill Welch




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: Request for help on new project-ACF 40 boxcar with Car-builders roof

Bill Welch
 

Patience Grasshopper, I am pretty sure these are in the works from one of our Resin purveyors.

Bill Welch


Re: FW: Just A Common Soldier

Robert Deis
 

THANK YOU ever so much Mr. Rich Yoder for posting this video,  It is truly sad how the veterans are just set aside by so many and not given a moments thought. Who would defend our country? Surley not these people who do not have a few minutes time to respect those who gave all. REST IN PEACE VETERANS. Remember "ALL GAVE SOME, SOME GAVE ALL.
Robert Deis
UNITED STATE NAVY


Request for help on new project-ACF 40 boxcar with Car-builders roof

O Fenton Wells
 

HO scale, 40 ft boxcar.  Does anyone make an ACF Car-builders roof for this car?  I seem to imagine an old AHM car with that but my brain is very suspect.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Fenton Wells


Re: Georgia & Florida resin bash from F&C kits on ebay

riverman_vt@...
 




---In STMFC@..., <benjaminscanlon@...> wrote :

A 'wrecker' car, maybe?  Already had discussions in years past about Ga & Fla's SOO sawtooth car and there are a few others like a DS USRA boxcar.


That said, conclusion on the Ga & Fla Facebook group is that it's a foobie.


Ben Scanlon

London, UK




     The Rutland had a "wrecker" car as well, an ex-CNR single sheathed car that Dennis Storzek used

to offer a kit for and used as the basis for the #4000 series Accuraul cars. The prototype went off the

joint CV-Rutland Rouses Point Trestle across the north end of Lake Champlain and spent a year under

water with one of the 2-8-2's before finally being rescued intact. It was taken to Rutland, run through the

car and paint shops and emerged as a newly painted #7999, the only car in that series. In this case,

however, it was also listed in the ORER's and survived until the end of the Rutland and then some. IF

the GA & FLA car were not a "foobie" I would expect it could be found in an ORER as well. Like others,

I could not find anything close to the car on eBay in either my Jan. 1938 or April 1948 ORER's. Makes

one wonder who the two characters are that have bid this no prototype model up to $155. P.T. Barnum

is alive and well!


Cordially, Don Valentine



Re: Georgia & Florida resin bash from F&C kits on ebay

riverman_vt@...
 




---In STMFC@..., <fgexbill@...> wrote :

AFAIK Don none of their decals are available any longer. The decals in question are probably from Sunshine.

Bill Welch

  
    Thank you Bill. That's what I was afraid of.

Don Valentine


NERPM next weekend in Connecticut

Dave Owens
 

Hello all:

NERPM is next weekend, June 3-4, in Enfield, Conn.

We have more than 50 clinics and programs scheduled on Friday and
Saturday, along with a large model display and vendors.

The clinic list is on our website under links.

We have layout open houses on Sunday.

There are three op sessions on Thursday for early arrivers.

We hope you'll join us.

Meet information is here: www.nerpm.org

Thanks,

Dave Owens
West Hartford, Conn.


Re: NYCSHS Central Headlight 2nd Qtr 2016 - NYC Automobile Cars 1916

Fran Giacoma
 

Enjoyed the subject article and would like to add a car to run on my HO 1956 B&O Shenandoah SD layout. I'd like to model the later (1940's) all steel, 40' car. What HO car would be a good starting point?

Thanks.

Fran Giacoma


Re: Georgia & Florida resin bash from F&C kits on ebay

Benjamin Scanlon
 

A 'wrecker' car, maybe?  Already had discussions in years past about Ga & Fla's SOO sawtooth car and there are a few others like a DS USRA boxcar.


That said, conclusion on the Ga & Fla Facebook group is that it's a foobie.


Ben Scanlon

London, UK


Magazine article storage suggestion

Jim King
 

Recent discussion re: how magazines are being clipped, stored, trashed, donated, etc., hit a chord with me too.  Many years ago I decided to thin my magazine collection by gutting all of them, regardless of age, and recycling the pages not wanted.  Books were sold to a dealer because the subject matter “didn’t matter” to me any longer.  In the mags I clipped, articles about freight cars built from the 40s thru the 70s were the primary ones kept, followed by prototype studies, then scenery techniques.  Rail Model Journal and MM have the most saved articles.

 

As time passes, the freight car articles have proven to be the most valuable in the form of prototype photos, not necessarily re-created drawings, which are prone to error as has been noted on the list many times.  All of my articles are kept in protective sleeves similar to slide and negative sleeves, just sized for a whole page.  Each article’s subject is stored in a 3-ring binder with a tag on the binding indicating subject (flat cars, hoppers, boxcars, etc.).

 

The “value” of a magazine is in the eye of the beholder.  If you’re a collector and only need 1 or 2 issues to fill out a large time span, I understand the desire to do so.  However, the resale value of paper in general, including books, has been declining for many years.  Just ask most book dealers.  Carrying such inventory ties up a lot of cash for them.  Moving such massive amounts of weight is a burden for us.  CDs do resolve a key element in retaining RR info but, in my case, if I wasn’t interested in the printed page, why would I buy a CD with the same stuff?

 

Many of you likewise continue to hone your modeling interests, be it subject matter or era or both.  This is reflected in the articles I keep.  Periodically, I’ll look thru these binders and toss the ones no longer of interest or outdated by better techniques, particularly scenery-related.  I have yet to toss any “kept” freight car article simply because getting such info now, despite the Internet, is not always so easy.

 

Keeping rotating files on freight car, loco, scenery, prototype studies, etc. helps us manage the paperwork we seem to collect so easily.  Giving away the clipped issues to a local library, school or medical office (have you noticed that most waiting room mags are several months old and have someone’s name on the mailing tag?) is a great way for our old mags to “live on”.

 

Jim King

(828) 777-5619

www.smokymountainmodelworks.com

 


Re: Yarmouth stirrups

watchmeister <watchmeister@...>
 

A-Line stirrups are very rugged, and I use them quite a bit. However, once on the car and pinned, Yarmouth stirrups are strong too. The pins look good as well. I needed to be more gentle when bending them, as some broke at first.
Ed Holler



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


-------- Original message --------
From: "dale florence dwwesley@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 5/28/16 4:29 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: yahoogroups <STMFC@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Yarmouth stirrups

 

These steps look great, I put them on a few cars, and stopped. They break very easy, went back to the A- line.



From: watchmeister watchmeister@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...>;
To: <STMFC@...>;
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Yarmouth stirrups
Sent: Sat, May 28, 2016 6:59:48 PM



I find Yarmouth stirrups are very sturdy if you drill the holes with a #78 bit and use .015 pins.

Ed Holler 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


-------- Original message --------
From: "Pierre Oliver pierre.oliver@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 5/28/16 1:11 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Yarmouth stirrups

 

They were meant to take 0.012 wire, but may require reaming with a drill

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 5/28/16 1:09 PM, fmilhaupt@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

On a related note, what size wire or pin are the etched-through holes sized to fit?


-Fritz Milhaupt




Re: Yarmouth stirrups

dale florence <dwwesley@...>
 

These steps look great, I put them on a few cars, and stopped. They break very easy, went back to the A- line.


From: watchmeister watchmeister@... [STMFC] ;
To: ;
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Yarmouth stirrups
Sent: Sat, May 28, 2016 6:59:48 PM



I find Yarmouth stirrups are very sturdy if you drill the holes with a #78 bit and use .015 pins.

Ed Holler 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


-------- Original message --------
From: "Pierre Oliver pierre.oliver@... [STMFC]"
Date: 5/28/16 1:11 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Yarmouth stirrups

 

They were meant to take 0.012 wire, but may require reaming with a drill

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 5/28/16 1:09 PM, fmilhaupt@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

On a related note, what size wire or pin are the etched-through holes sized to fit?


-Fritz Milhaupt




Re: Yarmouth stirrups

watchmeister <watchmeister@...>
 

I find Yarmouth stirrups are very sturdy if you drill the holes with a #78 bit and use .015 pins.

Ed Holler 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


-------- Original message --------
From: "Pierre Oliver pierre.oliver@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 5/28/16 1:11 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Yarmouth stirrups

 

They were meant to take 0.012 wire, but may require reaming with a drill

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 5/28/16 1:09 PM, fmilhaupt@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

On a related note, what size wire or pin are the etched-through holes sized to fit?


-Fritz Milhaupt


Seeking Photo Help

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

One of my current projects is a S-40-6 Union Pacific Stock Car. Tis was a project of the Union Pacific
Historical Society and they produced a really great kit. Richard Hendrickson reviewed this kit in
the UP Society magazine. I have some good phogtos of this car but I am lacking an end photo
that shows gthe air hose bracketing.

Thanks in adv ance for any help.

Bill Pardie


Re: Georgia & Florida resin bash from F&C kits on ebay

Bill Welch
 

AFAIK Don none of their decals are available any longer. The decals in question are probably from Sunshine.

Bill Welch


Re: Yarmouth stirrups

Pierre Oliver
 

They were meant to take 0.012 wire, but may require reaming with a drill

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 5/28/16 1:09 PM, fmilhaupt@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

On a related note, what size wire or pin are the etched-through holes sized to fit?


-Fritz Milhaupt


Re: Yarmouth stirrups

Fritz Milhaupt
 

On a related note, what size wire or pin are the etched-through holes sized to fit?

-Fritz Milhaupt
http://pmhistsoc.org


Re: Yarmouth stirrups

Brian Carlson
 

Thanks pierre. I was only using one pair of pliers, and getting too much twist in the vertical leg. 
The other bends are fine with the half etch lines. I didn't think about CA on the corners will do that too. 

Brian J. Carlson

On May 28, 2016, at 11:57 AM, Pierre Oliver pierre.oliver@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Brian,

You need to grasp the strip with 2 sets of pliers, above and below the notches, with about 0.030' space and then a quick twist.

If you're asking about the folds that make the U shape, be sure to be bending at the half etch lines and fold towards the 1/2 etch, so that the half etch is on the inside. The addition of a little CA once installed in the inside corners can help.

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 5/28/16 11:32 AM, Brian carlson prrk41361@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

I'm currently retrofitting a P2K auto box with the Yarmouth etched steps. How do you guys get crisp 90 degree bends. I'm going to use this whole package on car I fear.

Brian J. Carlson



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