Date   

Re: Westerfield stock car sanding

Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
 

Gary, I’ve built 24 of the flat kit Sunshine SM-18 stock cars, and after the first attempt as sanding where I damaged two slats, I changed course. As an aside, you can fix a few damaged slats with Evergreen styrene HO scale lumber matched to the board size of the slats. Be sure to use course sandpaper to approximate the wood grain of the original castings. When the car is painted, you can’t find the replaced boards. Now, for my method. I use a single edge razor blade to trim around the edges of the sides, and a #11 X-acto blade to remove the flash from the slats, working slowly and carefully to avoid knife damage to the slats. After the slats are clear, I run the point of the blade along the top and bottom of each slat to remove any residual flash. Then, and only then, do I lightly sand the backs of the sides to remove any residual plastic fuzz. I inspect the sides in good light for any remaining flash. I haven’t built a Westerfield stock car yet, though I have a RI kit in the stash.



I have a 14 x 18 piece of smooth tile (think counter top material) that perfectly flat. I tape three half sheets of sandpaper to the tile, 100, 220, and 400 grit. I start with the 100 and work down to 400. I try to keep an even pressure on the part, though with a large part like a side, I don’t have enough fingers. Avoid too much finger pressure as you slide the part on the sandpaper, and move you hand position to keep the back side as even as possible. I bought a diamond sharpening stone from Woodcraft upon Jack Burgess’ recommendation, and I use it for squaring car parts, but I finished all my stock cars before I got it so I can’t comment about sanding slats.



Bottom line is minimal downward pressure and mostly horizontal movement – let the sandpaper do the work as the part slides lightly across the surface. Use slow long strokes rather than rapid short strokes. Good luck.



Nelson Moyer



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 2:56 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Westerfield stock car sanding





Andy, Jack, Steve, and others,



I’d like complete details of how to sand the back of the Westerfield stock cars. I’ve ended up damaging the bracing when sanding the back thin.



Do you glue the grit down to the glass? What do you do to have equal pressure on the casting? Do you just use your fingers (which did not seem to work for me)? Grade of sandpaper?



Any and all help greatly appreciated. I do not want to ruin another set of sides.



Thanks,

Gary Ray





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: "NEW " Dates

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Armand,

Maybe because they work from builder's photos?

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 7/29/16 4:46 PM, Armand Premo armprem@... [STMFC] wrote:

 
Why is it that manufacturers of Freight Cars continue to produce otherwise excellent models with a "New  date"  instead of a realistic reweigh date ? Armand Premo    


Re: Westerfield stock car sanding

Bruce Smith
 

Let me add, go slow and PAY ATTENTION. I managed to sand through a board on a resin NP car from Aaron Gjermundson with a few careless strokes. Of course, when I get back to that kit, the salvage is going to be to patch the bard with a fresh board to make it look like a repair in transit!

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Jul 29, 2016, at 4:05 PM, STMFC@... wrote:

Nothing I can add to Bill’s summary. I have a couple of pieces of plate glass with the edges ground. They give a nice level surface for things like this plus soldering together white metal trucks…



Jack Burgess



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 12:56 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Westerfield stock car sanding







Andy, Jack, Steve, and others,



I’d like complete details of how to sand the back of the Westerfield stock cars. I’ve ended up damaging the bracing when sanding the back thin.



Do you glue the grit down to the glass? What do you do to have equal pressure on the casting? Do you just use your fingers (which did not seem to work for me)? Grade of sandpaper?



Any and all help greatly appreciated. I do not want to ruin another set of sides.



Thanks,

Gary Ray


Re: "NEW " Dates

Brian Carlson
 

Why is one more realistic than the other? Depends on the era modeling. I have both for my August 57 era. A car built in July 1957 would have new. 

Brian J. Carlson

On Jul 29, 2016, at 4:46 PM, Armand Premo armprem@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Why is it that manufacturers of Freight Cars continue to produce otherwise excellent models with a "New  date"  instead of a realistic reweigh date ? Armand Premo    


Re: Avoiding Switching Charges (ATSF 126439)

thecitrusbelt@...
 

I was being facetious, Jack.

 

Bob


Re: "NEW " Dates

Allen Ferguson
 

If you were to check Yarmouth model's kits the decal sheets have 10-15 different reweigh dates and locations to cover the life of the paint scheme.
Allen Ferguson


Re: Westerfield stock car sanding

Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

Nothing I can add to Bill’s summary. I have a couple of pieces of plate glass with the edges ground. They give a nice level surface for things like this plus soldering together white metal trucks…



Jack Burgess



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 12:56 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Westerfield stock car sanding








Andy, Jack, Steve, and others,



I’d like complete details of how to sand the back of the Westerfield stock cars. I’ve ended up damaging the bracing when sanding the back thin.



Do you glue the grit down to the glass? What do you do to have equal pressure on the casting? Do you just use your fingers (which did not seem to work for me)? Grade of sandpaper?



Any and all help greatly appreciated. I do not want to ruin another set of sides.



Thanks,

Gary Ray


Re: Westerfield stock car sanding

Bill Welch
 

Yes sandpaper needs to be secured to glass, spray adhesive handy for this. As I do this I make sure to rotate the casting so the sanding goes as evenly as possible. Go SLOWLY and check often using firm finger pressure. Did I already say check often. I would not use anything courser than 340 Grit, 400 is a good choice I think.

I accidentally broke my glass recently, a scrap .5 inches thick. I had had 20 years.

Bill Welch


Re: COUPLER BOX FASTENERS

Tim O'Connor
 


Hi Bill

A minor nitpick - 00-90 is not .090 (OD is .044) and 0-80 is not .080 (OD is .060)

Nice SP stock car by the way. Westerfield?

:-)



I have exhausted my modeling time for the morning and now it is back to the real world.  I have one item that I want to share first.
About a year ago there was a discussion on this list concerning screws for coupler box fasteners.  I came out of this with a reference
to a Hex Socket Head  Cap Screw.  I bought some in the .090 size and set them aside.  This mnorning's task was to install coupler
boxes on some of the resin cars in the pipeline.  WHAT A DIFFERENCE IN APPEARANCE THESE MAKE.  When viewed from the
side of the car you only see a slightgstem as opposed to an obvious screw head.  I am going to see if these are availab le in 2-56
for truck screws.

Bill Pardie


"NEW " Dates

Armand Premo
 

Why is it that manufacturers of Freight Cars continue to produce otherwise excellent models with a "New  date"  instead of a realistic reweigh date ? Armand Premo    


Re: Weathered box cars

Chuck Cover
 

Great job Eric.  Could you explain what you use for route tags?  Do you just make them yourself?  Thanks

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM


Westerfield stock car sanding

Gary Ray
 

Andy, Jack, Steve, and others,

 

I’d like complete details of how to sand the back of the Westerfield stock cars.  I’ve ended up damaging the bracing when sanding the back thin.

 

Do you glue the grit down to the glass?  What do you do to have equal pressure on the casting?  Do you just use your fingers (which did not seem to work for me)?  Grade of sandpaper?

 

Any and all help greatly appreciated.  I do not want to ruin another set of sides.

 

Thanks,

Gary Ray


Re: Avoiding Switching Charges (ATSF 126439)

Jack Mullen
 

Bob Chaparro said:

  >Apparently this is one person's approach to avoiding switching charges:

More likely, it's a staged photo session to advertise the pulling power of the '34 Hudson.

Jack Mullen


COUPLER BOX SCREWS - CORRECTION

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

Sorry the screw size is .080.

Bill Pardie


COUPLER BOX FASTENERS

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

I have exhausted my modeling time for the morning and now it is back to the real world. I have one item that I want to share first.
About a year ago there was a discussion on this list concerning screws for coupler box fasteners. I came out of this with a reference
to a Hex Socket Head Cap Screw. I bought some in the .090 size and set them aside. This mnorning's task was to install coupler
boxes on some of the resin cars in the pipeline. WHAT A DIFFERENCE IN APPEARANCE THESE MAKE. When viewed from the
side of the car you only see a slightgstem as opposed to an obvious screw head. I am going to see if these are availab le in 2-56
for truck screws.

Bill Pardie


Avoiding Switching Charges (ATSF 126439)

thecitrusbelt@...
 

This is another photo from the USC Digital Library (http://digitallibrary.usc.edu/ ).

 

Apparently this is one person's approach to avoiding switching charges:

 

http://digitallibrary.usc.edu/cdm/compoundobject/collection/p15799coll170/id/44439/rec/711

 

Use the slider to enlarge the photo.

 

This was taken outside of Santa Fe's La Grande Station in 1934. If nothing else, it's a good photo of ATSF 126439, a Bx-12 boxcar built in 1930. The second car probably is a Bx-12 as well but the number is not visible.

 

The Santa Fe had 3,500 of these cars, purchased from AC&F (500), Pullman (1,500), General American (1,000) and Pressed Steel Car (500), according to Santa FE Boxcars, 1869-1953. The Listing Of Freight Cars By Class And Car Number 1906-1991 shows the 500 AC&F cars as having been built by the Santa Fe shops, however.

 

ATSF 126439 is a member of the 500 cars with the uncertain builder.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: WE LIVE IN AN AGE OF TOO MUCH INFORMATION

Tony Thompson
 

Charles Peck wrote:

 
In such times I remind myself that perfection is the enemy of progress.   I think of my operating roster
like a Cecil B. DeMille production.  A few stars and a supporting cast of thousands. 

    Excellent philosophy, and entirely describes my own approach, too. Not all my freight cars are remotely equally fine models, nor do they need to be.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Re: GATC Tank Car Advice

Allan Smith
 

After reading your post I Competely scanned the bottom of the tank car looking for any identifying marks. I found on the coupler shank the name GLOBE so this most be an old Globe model.

Al Smith
Sonora CA


On Thursday, July 28, 2016 11:06 PM, "SUVCWORR@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
This beginning to sound like the Varney tank car.  Varney did have a solid one piece underframe.  However, to the best of my knowledge all Varney underframes were clearly marked as such with the name Varney in the center channel.

Rich Orr

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


-----Original Message-----
From: Garth Groff sarahsan@... [STMFC]
To: STMFC
Sent: Thu, Jul 28, 2016 09:27 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] GATC Tank Car Advice




Tony and Tom,
No, I don't think my two cars are Mantua, though construction is similar. The mystery cars are much better detailed (rivets pressed right into the steel tank instead of a paper wrapper and they were fully painted). They are in no way like the actual Mantua car that started all this (it is a Mantua, still in original box with instructions). None of the parts match, something that you would expect even with retooling.
Construction is similar to an Athearn, but again, the parts don't match up. For instance, the Athearn 40' tank had separate end castings and a pressed steel center sill (I still have a set of these parts in my scrap box). My mystery cars have the entire underframe cast in one piece. Could Athearn have done a major retooling of the Globe parts? When I was a youngster I had both Athearn and early Globe metal boxcars, and they were quite different.
Yours Aye,

Garth

On 7/28/16 7:12 PM, Tony Thompson tony@... [STMFC] wrote:
 
Tom Madden wrote:

 
Could Garth's tank be a Globe? They made one- and two-dome tank car kits back in the day. This should be right up Denny's alley.

   I don't think so. Globe made a 12,000-gallon car and a 10,000-gallon car, along with a "shorty" 10,000-gallon fat tank, all single-dome and with prototype size large domes. These were subsequently sold by Athearn after 1948.
     I wonder about Mantua, when they made a tank car with a metal shell. My triple-compartment car has Mantua couplers which exactly fit in a narrow coupler box (Mantua couplers did not need to swivel, because they had such a large gathering range).

Tony Thompson








Re: Weathered box cars

Tim O'Connor
 

Coarse dry brushes over a recent wash or wet brushes, both with pigments,
dry sponges, micro brushes (wet or dry), and sometimes just my finger...
whatever it takes. I like to mix it up. Also I find that doing less at one
time is better than trying to do it all at once. Some cars I have revisited
several times over a period of years.

To paraphrase Dory "just keep weathering"

Tim O'

I'm sorry to disappoint you but no airbrushes were used to weather these models. I can't recall how broad or long the brushes were for the wash applications. I'm away from home for a few days and can't peek around my work areas.

Micro brushes were used to streak PanPastels. Sponges were used to apply broader PanPastel applications.

Eric Hansmann


Reefers At Los Angeles Union Passenger Terminal

thecitrusbelt@...
 

Below is a link to two photos from the USC Digital Archives, titled "Suicide on Super Chief, 1958":

 

http://digitallibrary.usc.edu/cdm/compoundobject/collection/p15799coll44/id/56099/rec/1116

 

Use the photo legend to the right to shift between the images and use the sliders above the images to enlarge the photos.

 

While not the main subject of the of the photos, both show what appear to be refrigerator cars next to the passenger car. One is a PFE reefer and the other is a Santa Fe reefer.

 

While it may not be unusual for refrigerator cars to be in a passenger terminal to provide ice for passenger cars (dining service or certain air conditioning systems), I understand the Southern Pacific had its own small fleet of refrigerator cars for this purpose and SP did not rely on PFE cars.

 

So is this a rare exception for SP or was the car there possibly for some other purpose?

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

52961 - 52980 of 196816