Date   

Re: Stripping resin castings

Tim O'Connor
 


Likewise, be CAREFUL with CA "debonders". Most of them contain acetone, but
if you shop carefully you can find them without acetone.

Tim



I can tell you what NOT to use........  I once tried stripping a resin box car body with Acetone, as I knew that was the primary solvent used for Accu-Paint. The paint came off well, but the resin car body was damaged beyond salvation.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

He's stripping paint.

I've seen people use 91% rubbing alcohol to good effect on styrene models.  Anybody know what that might do to a resin model?

-Clark Cooper


KC brakes-was interesting freight car photos

Andy Carlson
 



Hi-
 
I had a need for about 2 dozen small (8 inch) KC brakes for my narrow gauge modeling projects. As I am modeling my narrow gauge in 120:1 scale (TT) there is very little commercial detail parts available. I discovered that the Atlas N scale SS steel side rebuild box cars have a nice one-piece casting of the std gauge 10" KC brake gear. As N scale components used for TT scale come to be 75% the size of the donor part, my cylinder scales to 7 1/2". As close as I will ever get to exact, and am pleased to have such a well proportioned part available.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

An excellent source for those "skinny" KC and KD equipments is the K brake sets made by Grandt Line for use on narrow gauge cars in both HO and O scale. The K equipment with 8" x 12" brake cylinders con! tinued in use of the narrow gauge long after standard gauge cars out grew them.Interestingly, the Soo Line cabooses I offered a kit for years ago used 8" brake cylinders, which they kept when converted to AB brakes in the forties, and I was able to include the excellent Grandt Line parts in those kits
Dennis Storzek



Re: West Side Belt hoppers

Eric Hansmann
 

Someone pointed out a link problem and a "-2" was added to the address for some reason. Here we go again.

 

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-31-16/X1191.jpg

 

 

That should work!

 

Eric Hansmann

El Paso,  TX

 

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:36 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers

 




Andy,

 

Here’s another image posted today that shows the hopper line beyond the WSB cars.

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-31-16/X1191-2.jpg

 

 

I haven’t downloaded this file to tweak the levels in Photoshop yet. My gut thinks it’s a P&WV car, but I’d like to see what a Photoshop tweak with reveal.

 

By adjusting the brightness and contrast the lettering may become easier to read. Note the car is taller than the WSB cars and they have a similar hopper door arrangement.

 

Eric Hansmann

El Paso, TX

 

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:20 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers

 



Eric's posting of the the 2nd image shows 3/4 of a cast steel truck to the right of the subject car. Is this an early Vulcan truck? The wheel has the number "18" visible as part of the foundry markings. Could the presence of this truck help narrow down the date of the photograph?

 

Eric noted the year as 1919, so the 5/27 must be May 27th. Extraordinarily accurate dating, thanks to some yard worker.

 

 

 

 


Re: interesting freight car photos - ERIE yard--2 click gondola picture

Dennis Storzek
 




---In STMFC@..., <spottab@...> wrote :



To my eye, that little gon has a "normal" split (D) brake system, but both the cylinder and reservoir look a bit skinnier than usual.  The would be fully consistent with a K-1 (or H-1) set-up.

With best regards,

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA
===============

An excellent source for those "skinny" KC and KD equipments is the K brake sets made by Grandt Line for use on narrow gauge cars in both HO and O scale. The K equipment with 8" x 12" brake cylinders continued in use of the narrow gauge long after standard gauge cars out grew them.

Interestingly, the Soo Line cabooses I offered a kit for years ago used 8" brake cylinders, which they kept when converted to AB brakes in the forties, and I was able to include the excellent Grandt Line parts in those kits.

Dennis Storzek


Stripping resin castings

Andy Carlson
 

I can tell you what NOT to use........  I once tried stripping a resin box car body with Acetone, as I knew that was the primary solvent used for Accu-Paint. The paint came off well, but the resin car body was damaged beyond salvation.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

He's stripping paint.

I've seen people use 91% rubbing alcohol to good effect on styrene models.  Anybody know what that might do to a resin model?

-Clark Cooper












Re: West Side Belt hoppers

Eric Hansmann
 

My gut was part right. The next car behind the WSB hopper is not lettered as P&WV. It carries PMcK&Y marks.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

El Paso, TX

 

 

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:36 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers

 




Andy,

 

Here’s another image posted today that shows the hopper line beyond the WSB cars.

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-31-16/X1191-2.jpg

 

 

I haven’t downloaded this file to tweak the levels in Photoshop yet. My gut thinks it’s a P&WV car, but I’d like to see what a Photoshop tweak with reveal.

 

By adjusting the brightness and contrast the lettering may become easier to read. Note the car is taller than the WSB cars and they have a similar hopper door arrangement.

 

Eric Hansmann

El Paso, TX

 

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:20 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers

 



Eric's posting of the the 2nd image shows 3/4 of a cast steel truck to the right of the subject car. Is this an early Vulcan truck? The wheel has the number "18" visible as part of the foundry markings. Could the presence of this truck help narrow down the date of the photograph?

 

Eric noted the year as 1919, so the 5/27 must be May 27th. Extraordinarily accurate dating, thanks to some yard worker.

 

 

 

 


Re: Stripping resin castings

Clark Cooper
 

He's stripping paint.

I've seen people use 91% rubbing alcohol to good effect on styrene models. Anybody know what that might do to a resin model?

-Clark Cooper

On Dec 31, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Pierre Oliver pierre.oliver@elgincarshops.com [STMFC] wrote:


Now I'm a tad confused. Are you stripping paint or prepping a new kit?

New kits, other than Sylvan's only require a wash with something like Dawn or Shout to remove mold releases. Sylvan's mold release needs lacquer thinner to remove.


Pierre Oliver

www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 12/31/16 9:54 AM, johnsykesiii@yahoo.com [STMFC] wrote:

Thanks for the heads up. I was going to use Wash-Away or butyl cellosolve to prep some resin models for painting. Sylvan Models recommends Dio-Sol, which doesn't exist any more, so I was trying to find a substitute. They say mineral spirits is not strong enough. Am now thinking of using Xylenes (a/k/a Xylol) to remove the mold release prior to painting. Any other suggestions?? Lacquer thinner? Last time I did a resin model I painted it with Floquil so I didn't have any problems with mold release.


-- John


Re: West Side Belt hoppers

Eric Hansmann
 

Andy,

 

Here’s another image posted today that shows the hopper line beyond the WSB cars.

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-31-16/X1191-2.jpg

 

 

I haven’t downloaded this file to tweak the levels in Photoshop yet. My gut thinks it’s a P&WV car, but I’d like to see what a Photoshop tweak with reveal.

 

By adjusting the brightness and contrast the lettering may become easier to read. Note the car is taller than the WSB cars and they have a similar hopper door arrangement.

 

Eric Hansmann

El Paso, TX

 

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2016 9:20 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers

 




Eric's posting of the the 2nd image shows 3/4 of a cast steel truck to the right of the subject car. Is this an early Vulcan truck? The wheel has the number "18" visible as part of the foundry markings. Could the presence of this truck help narrow down the date of the photograph?



Eric noted the year as 1919, so the 5/27 must be May 27th. Extraordinarily accurate dating, thanks to some yard worker.

 

 



West Side Belt hoppers

Andy Carlson
 

Eric's posting of the the 2nd image shows 3/4 of a cast steel truck to the right of the subject car. Is this an early Vulcan truck? The wheel has the number "18" visible as part of the foundry markings. Could the presence of this truck help narrow down the date of the photograph?

Eric noted the year as 1919, so the 5/27 must be May 27th. Extraordinarily accurate dating, thanks to some yard worker.





Re: interesting freight car photos - ERIE yard--2 click gondola picture

Dave Parker
 

Eric:

As per my 1913 Westinghouse Air-Brake Handbook:

The "H" designation refers to a short lived predecessor to the "K" triple valve, and that is the only brake component so designated.  Either valve could be fit to a combined cylinder and reservoir ("C" designation) or to separate ones ("D" designation).  Thus the familiar KC and KD notations.

In addition, the triple valves came in two sizes.  The K-1 (and H-1) was used with 6- or 8-inch cylinders, while the perhaps more familiar K-2 (and H-2) was always used with a 10-inch cylinder.  The heavier the car, the more stopping power was needed, which is why we tend to only see K-2 set-ups on cars of ca. 40-t or greater capacity.

To my eye, that little gon has a "normal" split (D) brake system, but both the cylinder and reservoir look a bit skinnier than usual.  The would be fully consistent with a K-1 (or H-1) set-up.

With best regards,

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA



On Friday, December 30, 2016 4:29 PM, "'Eric Hansmann' eric@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:


 
Here’s the link for the photo Gary has commented upon.
 
 
This is a nice broadside of a BR&P coal gondola. Is the brake cylinder an H brake component? R is it just a different K brake manufacturer?
 
Eric Hansmann
El Paso, TX
 
 
 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 4:59 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] interesting freight car photos - ERIE yard--2 click gondola picture
 



The truss rod gondola with the fox trucks appears to have an air tank with dirt collector attached in addition to its unusual  brake cylinder. 
 
gary laakso
south of Mike Brock until next week!
 
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 5:47 PM
Subject: [STMFC] interesting freight car photos - ERIE yard
 




Re: West Side Belt hoppers

Eric Hansmann
 

And we get a fine broadside image of the WSB hopper today!
http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-31-16/X1188.jpg


Eric Hansmann

El Paso, TX


On December 30, 2016 at 9:12 PM "'Claus Schlund HGM' claus@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:


Hi Andy, Schuyler, and List Members,

5/27 could be a date, could also mean car 5 of 27 or some other similar car count.

Claus Schlund


----- Original Message -----
From: "'Schuyler Larrabee' schuyler.larrabee@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 7:45 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers

Eric noted the year as 1919, so the 5/27 must be May 27th. Extraordinarily accurate dating, thanks to some yard worker.


Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 9:40 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers





Look for the large "asterisk" chalk mark with a 5/27 mark on the 1st car to the right. I assume that would be a date.



-Andy Carlson

Ojai CA



_____

From: "'Schuyler Larrabee' schuyler.larrabee@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 6:18 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers





Eric, the fact that they are "still have their 'new' stenciling" shouldn't
be surprising, as these photos are from the late teens or early 20s. Thanks
for the ID on the WSB reporting marks.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: "Schuyler Larrabee" <schuyler.larrabee@...>
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Posted by: "Claus Schlund HGM" <claus@...>
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Re: Stripping resin castings

Pierre Oliver
 

Now I'm a tad confused. Are you stripping paint or prepping a new kit?

New kits, other than Sylvan's only require a wash with something like Dawn or Shout to remove mold releases. Sylvan's mold release needs lacquer thinner to remove.


Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 12/31/16 9:54 AM, johnsykesiii@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

Thanks for the heads up.  I was going to use Wash-Away or butyl cellosolve  to prep some resin models for painting.  Sylvan Models recommends Dio-Sol, which doesn't exist any more, so I was trying to find a substitute.  They say mineral spirits is not strong enough.  Am now thinking of using Xylenes (a/k/a Xylol) to remove the mold release prior to painting.  Any other suggestions??  Lacquer thinner?  Last time I did a resin model I painted it with Floquil so I didn't have  any problems with mold release.


-- John


Re: Stripping resin castings

John Sykes III
 

Thanks for the heads up.  I was going to use Wash-Away or butyl cellosolve  to prep some resin models for painting.  Sylvan Models recommends Dio-Sol, which doesn't exist any more, so I was trying to find a substitute.  They say mineral spirits is not strong enough.  Am now thinking of using Xylenes (a/k/a Xylol) to remove the mold release prior to painting.  Any other suggestions??  Lacquer thinner?  Last time I did a resin model I painted it with Floquil so I didn't have  any problems with mold release.

-- John


Re: Stripping resin castings

Benjamin Hom
 

Fred Jansz wrote:
"I'm using Dot3/4 brake fluid. How long it takes depends on the paint. Most of the times works fine. Some acrylic paints are rather stubborn and might take a day or two in the bath."


ON RESIN? I think not. DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID TO STRIP RESIN. You will end up with a blob instead of kit components or a model.


Ben Hom


Re: Stripping resin castings

Fred Jansz
 

I'm using Dot3/4 brake fluid. How long it takes depends on the paint. Most of the times works fine. Some acrylic paints are rather stubborn and might take a day or two in the bath.
cheers, Fred Jansz


Re: Freight Car Content added for Prototype Rails 2017

Tony Thompson
 

Bob Chaparro wrote:

 
Dr. Mary Pennington indeed was a pioneering woman, professionally well ahead of her time. And she was not shy about getting into the field to do research:

 

 

For a short time she worked with G. Harold Powell, probably the most significant scientific and economic influence on the California citrus industry in the early 1900s. Powell influenced picking and packing practices, right down to tools and work clothing. He served briefly as secretary and general manager of the Citrus Protective League in Los Angeles. In 1912 he became the general manager of the California Fruit Growers Exchange, now known as Sunkist, a position he held until 1922. He also was a frequent lobbyist in Washington.

 

What is the connection? A lesser known fact is that Dr. Mary Pennington was for many years the mistress of G. Harold Powell. The affair was known to his wife and son, resulting in the son writing a mild "tell all book", Portrait of My Father.

   I suppose it is JUST possible that Bill Welch's clinic will not include these details . . .

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Re: Freight Car Content added for Prototype Rails 2017

thecitrusbelt@...
 

Dr. Mary Pennington indeed was a pioneering woman, professionally well ahead of her time. And she was not shy about getting into the field to do research:

 

http://dla.library.upenn.edu/dla/archives/image.html?q=Pennington&id=ARCHIVES_20021126009&size=1

 

For a short time she worked with G. Harold Powell, probably the most significant scientific and economic influence on the California citrus industry in the early 1900s. Powell influenced picking and packing practices, right down to tools and work clothing. He served briefly as secretary and general manager of the Citrus Protective League in Los Angeles. In 1912 he became the general manager of the California Fruit Growers Exchange, now known as Sunkist, a position he held until 1922. He also was a frequent lobbyist in Washington.

 

What is the connection? A lesser known fact is that Dr. Mary Pennington was for many years the mistress of G. Harold Powell. The affair was known to his wife and son, resulting in the son writing a mild "tell all book", Portrait of My Father.

 

I bought the book hoping to learn more about the citrus industry and instead discovered a family's dirty linen.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

Moderator

Citrus Industry Modeling Group


Re: carbide PCB drills

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 12/30/2016 4:21 PM, gtws00@... [STMFC] wrote:
I picked up a set of #81,82,83,84 and 85 (5 each for 26.85) and some 10 paks of #80 and 79 for 7.50 and 7.00

    I made a mistake on my previous post as Drill Bit City prices are for a 10 pack.  Teach me to read really fast.  Reground are shown on the site.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: Stripping resin castings

Joseph
 

Joe,
Send it to me. I have a grit blaster booth and can remove paint from resin.
Joe Binish
binish 6 at q period com

----- Original Message -----
From: "'Joe Melhorn' toyman@sbcglobal.net [STMFC]" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 10:36 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Stripping resin castings


Hi all,

While not directly related to steam era freight cars, I'm working on a
project that requires stripping painted resin castings. The castings were
painted with Testor's Spray Enamel. Since a lot of the members here buy and
build resin freight cars, does anyone have a method that works for them. I
tried using Scalecoat II wash Away on some painted resin steps and it caused
the steps to shrivel up and turn rubbery. I'm reluctant to continue trying
to strip the remaining pieces using the Wash Away. Any help would be
appreciated.

Regards,

Joe Melhorn
Sahuarita, AZ





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Posted by: "Joe Melhorn" <toyman@sbcglobal.net>
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Re: West Side Belt hoppers

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi List Members,

I've looked over the hopper car that is inside the scale house in the image below, and it looks to be a PRR class GLa twin hopper.

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-30-16/X1187.jpg

Claus Schlund

----- Original Message -----
From: "'Schuyler Larrabee' schuyler.larrabee@verizon.net [STMFC]" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 6:18 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] West Side Belt hoppers


Eric, the fact that they are "still have their 'new' stenciling" shouldn't
be surprising, as these photos are from the late teens or early 20s. Thanks
for the ID on the WSB reporting marks.
Schuyler
Here's another image from the El-Steamtown collection that was posted today.
http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-12-30-16/X1187.jpg
At the far right is a pair of hoppers marked as WSB. These are West Side
Belt cars from a Pittsburgh area short line that would be folded into the
Pittsburgh & West Virginia. This offers a good view of interesting
Enterprise hopper doors. Note these cars were built in 1917 and still have
their NEW stenciling. Lots of grime is covering this car.
The car ahead of the WSB hoppers looks like it could be a B&O N-10 class
hopper car.
Eric Hansmann
El Paso, TX
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Posted by: "Schuyler Larrabee" <schuyler.larrabee@verizon.net>
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