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Re: Steve Solombrino

Jerry Hamsmith
 

Lets try that again 

hammersr at aol dot com

Thanks.

Jerry Hamsmith
Re: State of Richard H's collection At CSRM Question from the archives

Ken Roth
 

Tony and all,
I spent an afternoon at CSRM in June 2016 and Richard's stuff was boxes of file folders with photos and a couple of hard-copy pages listing contents.  The material was all available for reproduction and study in the reading room.  Didn't have time to look at much of it.

Ken Roth
Steve Solombrino

Jerry Hamsmith
 

Could Steve Solombrino please contact me off list at


hammersr@...


Thanks.


Jerry Hamsmith
Re: Not stripping, but painting (Scalecoat II)

Craig Zeni
 

On Jan 3, 2017, at 3:46 AM, STMFC@yahoogroups.com wrote:

2a. Re: Not stripping, but painting (Scalecoat II)
Posted by: edb8391@cox.net bny1889
Date: Mon Jan 2, 2017 4:49 pm ((PST))

Having just used Scale Coat II, be aware that it takes a lot longer to dry and fully cure than Floquil does.
Scale Coat also dries to a gloss finish - fine for decaling. A top coat of Testors Dull Coat or something similar that is alcohol based will reduce the shine and not harm the paint


For masking, I've used Tamaya (? Never could spell that name correctly when away from the workbench) which has a thin, reasonably low tack fine-edged masking tape which worked very well over Scale Coat II after it had cured for two or three days.


I've found that the commercial blue and green masking tape has a higher tackiness which can lift relatively fresh paint. One way I found to use it when needed, is to run a strip of it on a piece of glass rubbing it down well.. Then cut what is needed. Pulling it off the glass reduces some of the tacky-ness.
I am a longtime SC user. It DOES dry slow, relative to the acrylics. But I'm not modeling for speed so I've no problem letting it dry several days or more before using a second color/masking/decaling. I also use the Tamiya tape - great stuff.

Craig Zeni
Cary NC
Re: 39 HO steam era boxcars F/S

Armand Premo
 

Please send list.Thank you.Armand Premo

On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 11:26 PM, mguill1224@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Send me an e-mail for a list of 23 built up plastic box cars and 16 built up resin boxcars that are for sale - all 50's era.  Hugh T Guillaume  mguill1224 "at" aol.com
Re: "Freight Train (1954)"

Paul Doggett <paul.doggett2472@...>
 

Thanks for sharing.

On Tue, 3 Jan, 2017 at 10:33, Garth Groff sarahsan@... [STMFC]
wrote:
 

Al,

Thanks for posting the link to this film. Really cool freight cars (sadly, no steam locomotives though). There were some surprises here.

The multi-dome tank cars at :42 and :44 are really interesting, though I couldn't read the reporting marks.

Note the SFRD reefers at 4:54. All appear to have the reversed hatch covers, and some still have the wooden hatch platforms. A plug-door SFRD car with normally-oriented hatch covers is at 8:43.

I was also pleased to see the NH 10' boxcar with the large script lettering. I have one of these in my collection, and thought this paint scheme might be too late for the 1950s.

The tank car just before the caboose at 6:09 appears to be lettered CHAX 838 [?] , a Chartland's car, and is stenciled "soy bean oil". It also appears to be missing one of its journal box lids. That isn't the same tank seen next to the caboose at 10:26.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 1/2/17 5:11 PM, abrown@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Lots of STMFCs in this one. I especially like the two rebuilt tank cars in the opening sequence. Not sure if the link will work: it's on YouTube.


Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.



Freight Train (1954)
Re: "Freight Train (1954)"

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Al,

Thanks for posting the link to this film. Really cool freight cars (sadly, no steam locomotives though). There were some surprises here.

The multi-dome tank cars at :42 and :44 are really interesting, though I couldn't read the reporting marks.

Note the SFRD reefers at 4:54. All appear to have the reversed hatch covers, and some still have the wooden hatch platforms. A plug-door SFRD car with normally-oriented hatch covers is at 8:43.

I was also pleased to see the NH 10' boxcar with the large script lettering. I have one of these in my collection, and thought this paint scheme might be too late for the 1950s.

The tank car just before the caboose at 6:09 appears to be lettered CHAX 838 [?] , a Chartland's car, and is stenciled "soy bean oil". It also appears to be missing one of its journal box lids. That isn't the same tank seen next to the caboose at 10:26.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 1/2/17 5:11 PM, abrown@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Lots of STMFCs in this one. I especially like the two rebuilt tank cars in the opening sequence. Not sure if the link will work: it's on YouTube.


Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.



Freight Train (1954)
Re: Question from the archives

Tony Thompson
 

Dave Nelson wrote:

 
A follow up from Jon Miller prompts this post: Jon gently kidded Richard that it was about time he write that tank car book he had been considering for so long. My question tonight is did Richard actually start, finish, or see published that book?

        I urged Richard many times to just make a start on that book, and of course I stood ready to publish it. Unfortunately, he never really found the energy to take on what would have been a big task. His pride in "doing it right" would have required mammoth research. I retrieved from his computer a file called "Tank Car Book," but it only contained some miscellaneous photos and brief texts, probably just a pigeonhole for "stuff" that came along. He could have written a wonderful book even with just what he could recall from his own memory, but it just didn't happen

 And speaking of Richard (may he rest in peace), anyone know what the state of affairs are at the CSRM WRT his bequeathed collection?


      The collection has been gone over carefully, removed from Richard's photo album "magnetic" sticky pages, and placed in archival folders, and his organization scheme, by car types and then alphabetically by owner, has been preserved. As far as I know it is accessible, though I have not personally used it since it has been at CSRM. (Over the years I did scan a lot of his stuff I was personally interested in, so have a file of my own). If anyone does use, or attempt to use, the collection at CSRM, please keep this list posted on results.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history
Re: Question from the archives

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 1/2/2017 8:04 PM, 'Dave Nelson' Lake_Muskoka@... [STMFC] wrote:
Tonight I was looking for information about Shell Oil tankcars (RPX, SCCX, and SCMX) wondering when some of them were painted yellow.  I found Richard H. answered this question waaaay back in 2002 (it being back in the 20’s, too early for my interests).  A follow up from Jon Miller prompts this post: Jon gently kidded Richard that it was about time he write that tank car book he had been considering for so long.

Santa Fe Railway
Rolling Stock Reference Series - Volume Five
Santa Fe Tank Cars
by Richard H. Hendrickson and Richard W. Pelouze
2004

If this is the one you are wondering about.



-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS
Re: workshop products

Tim O'Connor
 


I have now! :-)

Tim O'



Tim, I know it is very popular w/military modelers. I just checked some of my YouTube subscriptions and nothing popped right up. I suggest searching YouTube as I am finding some very fine things about painting. You of course downloaded my Acrylic Painting resources folder from Dropbox?
Airbrushing 101. . . Handouts
Floquil RR10

Rod Miller
 

I have several six packs of 2 oz. bottles. They are at least 20 years old.
Is that what you are looking for?

--
Rod Miller
Handcraftsman
===
Custom 2-rail O Scale Models: Drives, | O Scale West / S West
Repairs, Steam Loco Building, More | 2017 Meet is May 25 - 27
http://www.rodmiller.com | http://www.oscalewest.com
39 HO steam era boxcars F/S

Hugh Guillaume
 

Send me an e-mail for a list of 23 built up plastic box cars and 16 built up resin boxcars that are for sale - all 50's era.  Hugh T Guillaume  mguill1224 "at" aol.com
Re: TRAX 12000-12599

Ed Hawkins
 

'Brian Carlson' prrk41361@yahoo.com [STMFC] wrote:

Can anyone tell me what trucks can on the TRAX 12000-12599 reefers built in 1954? There are 5 photos in Gene Green�s Refrigerator Car Color Guide but the exposures are such that everything below the side sill is too dark to tell.
Brian,
All 600 cars came with A-3 Ride Control.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins
TRAX 12000-12599

Brian Carlson
 

Can anyone tell me what trucks can on the TRAX 12000-12599 reefers built in 1954? There are 5 photos in Gene Green’s Refrigerator Car Color Guide but the exposures are such that everything below the side sill is too dark to tell.

 

Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga NY

 
Question from the archives

Dave Nelson
 

Tonight I was looking for information about Shell Oil tankcars (RPX, SCCX, and SCMX) wondering when some of them were painted yellow.  I found Richard H. answered this question waaaay back in 2002 (it being back in the 20’s, too early for my interests).  A follow up from Jon Miller prompts this post: Jon gently kidded Richard that it was about time he write that tank car book he had been considering for so long.

 

My question tonight is did Richard actually start, finish, or see published that book?

 

And speaking of Richard (may he rest in peace), anyone know what the state of affairs are at the CSRM WRT his bequeathed collection?

 

Dave Nelson
Re: Modeling a ATSF BX-77

Allan Smith
 

Try a Branchline  1000 series 50' postwar riveted side boxcar. It has  a diagonal panel roof 4-4 roller pin ends and close to the correct side. You may have to add details for Bx-77 1001.I think Microscale has decals for the Shock Control cars.See page 26 of Santa Fe Box Cars The Shock Control Era 1954-1995.

Al Smith
Sonora Ca


On Saturday, December 31, 2016 8:15 PM, "thekays100@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
I have been planning to build a ATSF BX-77 boxcar with the large "DF...With..Shock Control" markings for a while now and have gathered together what I thought were the necessary items.   As I started the project today I realized that the car I had planned to use, a Branchline Single Door boxcar, was really not correct as the side panels are not all the same width.   

Is there a kit that can be used for this prototype, without rebuilding the sides?   I know I will have to add the gussets on either side of the door, but I really don't want to sand the sides smooth and redo the panels.   

Any suggestions?

Steve Kay
Diosol Formula

qmp211
 

Greetings,

I copied the Diosol formula posted in one of the yahoo groups several years ago by a chemist who lab analyzed and posted the formula. This is as posted verbatim.

"38% by vol toluene, 41% by vol xylene and 21% by vol Solvesso 100 (a long evaporation rate aromatic hydrocarbon solvent). Getting the toluene and xylene is not difficult, but the Solvesso 100 is only available through chemical suppliers."

I was fortunate to have a local paint manufacturer that could provide the Solvesso 100.

Also, I would never soak anything other than metal in Diosol.

BTW, I'm looking for original formula Floquil RR10 Engine Black, the exact number must be RR10. Bottle, box, can, case......

Thanks.

Randy Danniel
Re: Not stripping, but painting (Scalecoat II)

Schuyler Larrabee
 

As to tape . . . I have used just about everything except 3M Packing tape . . . drafting tape, Magic tape, the blue painter’s tape . . . but I have had the best experience with 3M 218 Fine Line Tape. I have two rolls 1/16” and ½”. Simple sloth has “prevented” me from buying a couple other widths, but so far I’ve been able to get by with these two. Obviously, I can cut down the ½” where necessary. It has a very smooth, non-fuzzy edge and adheres well. I have place and re-place and re-place and replaced the tape to get it in >exactly< the right location many times, without it losing its stickiness. I press it down with a round wood toothpick using the pointed end, and also the other end sliced at a very flat angle to get a wider flat surface. Never (yet) had it lift paint (touch wood). It also (the narrow tape) can be convinced to bend around curved lines if not too tight a radius. I’ve also slit or kerfed it along one edge to get it to bend a little tighter.



I also use Microscale’s MicroMask when it gets just too complicated to deal with, using the tape as the edges of complicated things, like ladders.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2017 7:49 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Not stripping, but painting (Scalecoat II)





Having just used Scale Coat II, be aware that it takes a lot longer to dry and fully cure than Floquil does.

Scale Coat also dries to a gloss finish - fine for decaling. A top coat of Testors Dull Coat or something similar that is alcohol based will reduce the shine and not harm the paint



For masking, I've used Tamaya (? Never could spell that name correctly when away from the workbench) which has a thin, reasonably low tack fine-edged masking tape which worked very well over Scale Coat II after it had cured for two or three days.



I've found that the commercial blue and green masking tape has a higher tackiness which can lift relatively fresh paint. One way I found to use it when needed, is to run a strip of it on a piece of glass rubbing it down well.. Then cut what is needed. Pulling it off the glass reduces some of the tacky-ness.



Ed Bommer









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: STMFC@yahoogroups.com

genegreen1942@...
 


That modular organizing system looks quite handy and the prices seem pretty good, too.  Apparently "some assembly required."  Does anyone know of what material the various parts are made?  I couldn't seem to find that information on the website.  I especially liked the paint bottle storage.
Gene Green
 
Re: Not stripping, but painting (Scalecoat II)

Edward
 

Having just used Scale Coat II, be aware that it takes a lot longer to dry and fully cure than Floquil does.
Scale Coat also dries to a gloss finish - fine for decaling. A top coat of Testors Dull Coat or something similar that is alcohol based will reduce the shine and not harm the paint

For masking, I've used Tamaya (? Never could spell that name correctly when away from the workbench) which has a thin, reasonably low tack fine-edged masking tape which worked very well over Scale Coat II after it had cured for two or three days. 

I've found that the commercial blue and green masking tape has a higher tackiness which can lift relatively fresh paint.  One way I found to use it when needed, is to run a strip of it on a piece of glass rubbing it down well.. Then cut what is needed. Pulling it off the glass reduces some of the tacky-ness.

Ed Bommer 

 
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