On the Steam Era Freight Cars sight Steve Hile posted photos of an X-3 

Hi,

When using KK for windows ...

KK does not normally dry in less than 4 to as much as 24
hours. It will usually skin over in about an hour. I normally
set the model aside for 12 to 24 hours.
After you close the space up with the toothpick draw the
toothpick out very slowly - do other windows on the same
side of the model - and set it down with the window side UP.
This will create a window that is all one thickness.
The thickness of the window frame determines the
thickness of the KK window. If you are doing a blue box
Athearn caboose they will be "coke bottle thick" - and
you will have to apply KK more than once in order to
get it to have a flat appearance. You can add more KK
layers on top of layers that aren't fully dry ... but if they
haven't at least fully skinned over you will have to wait
before applying a following layer. Multiple layers can
take 2 or more -days- to dry fully.
KK wants to/will almost always form a fillet at any
corner ... it will not lay flat against an edge that is 90
degrees from the face. This can/will create a 'wrong'
look. An additional layer that fills the space will
correct this - be careful about not getting too much
across the window face because it can also have a
curl down at the edges which looks just as 'wrong'.
Using KK for windows on painted brass models is
surprisingly easy/effective. The walls of brass
models are thin and it only takes one time to get
a window that looks darn good.
KK will never look as transparent/flat as using
some clear plastic (acetate or styrene) or actual.
And it won't have that mirror like aspect to the
surface that reflects the surroundings. But it
still can be used very effectively ... and most guys
won't notice that you didn't use the good stuff.

Using KK as an adhesive ...

KK makes an -excellent- adhesive and for certain
applications it is unsurpassed. Yes, it has a -very-
slow drying time ... but that can be an asset as well
as an issue.
You have to 'support' the two parts in such a way
that they don't move while the KK dries and sometimes
that is difficult.
Because it forms a fillet - KK is much stronger for
joining parts that need it. Such as gluing the cab
shades on an HO diesel.
Because KK dries -clear- you can use it on painted
models. Often, especially if you use care in how
much KK you use, any 'extra' amount of KK will be
invisible ... or at most form a clear puddle that
resembles "ice".
KK accepts all types of paint (they all stick to it).
Be doubly certain it is fully dry before you paint
over it. I use 48 hours as my rule of thumb for
how long after applying KK that I will paint it.
KK can form an adhoc "bracket" ... for instance
you can apply it up and over the edges of a lead
weight and when it is dry it will hold the lead in
place 'for ever'.

KK does not get soft due to humidity - but if you
apply a drop of water on it and set it aside for at
least an hour (some times as long as 2 or even 4)
it will soften and the two parts previously glued
to each other can be separated. With enough
time and reapplication of KK its former presence
on a part(s) can be undetectable.

I believe that KK is "some form of white glue". I
don't know what Microscale adds to it. I don't
really care. I consider it to be "worth it".
Yes, you can add some water to a bottle of KK
and recover its previous consistency if you left
it open by accident. How much? I just guess.
(Start small and add more if not enough?)

No, KK is not my "go to" product for windows or as an
adhesive ... it is "one of the options that I consider".
I do find I use it "once in every week when I'm doing
any modeling on 4 or more days of that week" ... YMMV.
- Jim B.

Sun Jan 8, 2017 6:19 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"Tom Birkett" tnbirke@sbcglobal.net
I think they owned the Colorado Midland for awhile

Tom Birkett, Bartlesville, o

But the Colorado Midland was always a standard gauge railroad.

Howard Garner

I agree, not "optical quality" - However, I wonder if I had a fine window
mesh (perhaps N scale?) if it would make a nice "glass brick" window - not
clear, but definitely translucent. I may try it...

Tim O'Connor

I think they owned the Colorado Midland for awhile

Tom Birkett, Bartlesville, ok



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 7:55 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Clear Resin Castings





Chuck, I thought of doing something like that but I'd rather have full
windows.

I think the Santa Fe was actually considered a "short-line" the first day
their construction started, but it didn't end up that way after time. Don't
actually know if it ever had any narrow-gauge. Interesting question.

Paul Hillman



_____

From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Charles
Hladik RUTLANDRS@aol.com [STMFC] <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 7:36 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Clear Resin Castings





Paul,

Without actually seeing the piece, I suggest that you paint "the post"
the caboose color and trim it to look as though it's open.

By the way, is this Santa Fe some sort of short line or a narrow gauge?

Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division







-----Original Message-----
From: chris_hillman@msn.com [STMFC] <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
To: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2017 8:28 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Clear Resin Castings



I'm assembling some Walthers Santa Fe 1300 class cabooses (way cars) and
find the clear, cupola side-window castings to be rather poor. The back part
of the casting stops in the middle of the 2 windows and leaves a vertical
"post" looking thing instead of being just a clear looking window.

I could correct this by making a new mold & casting of the clear part using
the original as a pattern & adding some styrene strips over the offending
areas.

I have some "Easy Cast" - "Clear Casting Epoxy" that I bought awhile back,
but upon reading the instructions it turns out that the complete curing time
is 72 hours (3 days).

Anyone know of a clear casting material for this purpose that cures faster
than 72 hours?



Thanks, Paul Hillman

Steve, Folks,

Having been able to pull out the photo and look, I can say that even without the photo, Steve nailed it ;)  And I must say that I fee MUCH more confident in my UTL minutia due to an absolutely awesome clinic that Steve gave on this very subject at Cocoa.  I can't wait to dig out my UTLX cars and get to work!

Regards

Bruce Smith

Auburn, Al (Just got back 2 hours ago!)

These should help from UTLX 54679, an X-3 preserved in El Dorado, Kansas.
What you see in Ted's book are these stampings which support the break
cylinder and triple valve as well as the running board.





__________________________________________________

J. Stephen Sandifer



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 1:20 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] UTLX Tank Car 37455 photo






I don't have that book, but didn't all UTLX tank cars have square plates
mounted
on the running boards (4 plates, facing all 4 directions) for mounting
hazard placards?

Tim O'Connor




Working on a UTLX X-3 Resin Car Works tank car. I have been using Steam Era
Freight Cars Reference Manual, Vol. 2, Tank Cars by SpeedMedia for
additional photo help. My question is regarding the photo of UTLX 37455 on
the bottom of page 77. Next to the air reservoir on the left side is a
plate (guard, mud flap) that appears to be attached to the running board to
protect the air reservoir and control valve from wheel spray or maybe a
train line bracket which appears to be running through it. Wondering what
the real purpose is.

Thank you, in advance, for your time and effort to look and help.

Lester Breuer