Date   

Re: Re weigh locations

rob.mclear3@...
 

Tony thank you I have downloaded that and has answered all of my questions in one hit.   I didn't know of that resource and will have to keep it in mind in future thank you so much.

Rob McLear
Aussie.


Re: D&H open tops

Benjamin Hom
 

Bill Dale wrote:

"In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611. First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black. Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant. Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier. The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it. For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53."

Sorry, Bill, 209 cars is not "a lot", even where the D&H is concerned. It pales next to the 3500+ Seley cars (51%) and the ~1400 30 ft 11 in fishbelly twins (20%) on the roster in the July 1950 ORER, making up a whopping 3% of the D&H hopper fleet.


Ben Hom


Re: D&H open tops

William Dale
 

I forgot to add this earlier for those who may be interested.  The D&H also had their fleet of L.C.L air activated cement canister gondolas, originally 15950-15969, and then added 15900-15914.  These appeared in the early 1940's and were red.  To the best of my knowledge these never wore black.  I have a photo of 15911, Oneonta 8-64 still wearing it's red paint.  Now, Shortline Products makes a set of decals for the air cement canisters covering the D&H, NYC, DL&W, and LV.

Bill


Re: D&H open tops

William Dale
 

Group,

         I wanted to add  to this topic in regards to paint and decals available.  In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611.  First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black.  Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant.  Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier.  The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it.  For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53.  Now for decals, in HO, are as mentioned earlier the Tichy offerings, Westerfield D3309 for the USRA single sheath box cars, C-D-S 591 was for the USRA 2-bay hoppers converted to covered hoppers in the red scheme, nos. 3201-3220.  All were in service as of January '53 in grey though.  I don't know when they were changed like the USRA single sheath box cars also in cement service, and F&C has the early gondola sets.  Lastly, years back the O&W car shop imported brass Seley hoppers cars and had a very nice decal set to finish them off.  I have two sets packed away, but they are still listed as set #1004 on the Old and Weary Car Shop website.

Bill


Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

thecitrusbelt@...
 

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

 

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Resin kits for sale...

Jack Burgess
 

When I mentioned in my email that “…the rest are no longer available” I was referring to the kits no longer being available from the original source such as Sunshine and Speedwitch. Until they are sold, all of the kits on the list are available to be purchased.

 

Jack Burgess

 


Re: Re weigh locations

Tony Thompson
 

      Odd how people forget , but there is a VERY comprehensive list of reweigh symbols, still on the "steam era freight cars" web site, originally compiled by Richard Hendrickson and added to by many others. Here's the link. You might wish to do as I did, and download it for your own files.


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Resin kits for sale...

Jack Burgess
 

Resin kits for sale…

 

Like some others, I have a pile of resins kits stashed away. But rather than deciding that I don’t have time to build them all, I have realized that I should not have purchased some of them in the first place. Most of the kits in this group are freight cars from eastern roads that would most likely never be seen on the Yosemite Valley Railroad as well as foreign stock cars and automobile cars. Not sure what I was thinking back then.

 

So, I have 15 resin kits for sale from Speedwitch, Sunshine, Westerfield, Funaro & Camerlengo, and Des Plaines Valley Car and Foundry. A few of the Westerfield cars are still available but the rest of no longer available.

 

To download the list, go to

 

http://www.yosemitevalleyrr.com/clinics

 

and click on Resin Kits for Sale at the bottom of the list.

 

Jack Burgess

 


Re: Re weigh locations

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Rob,

From my notes on previous discussions (IIRC contributed by the late Richard Hendrickson):

TOP--Topeka

SAN--San Bernardino

CLE--Cleburne, Texas


From the Champ decal set:

AM, AQ, CY, FM, KC, LJ, SB, TS and WC. Some are obvious, other are unknown to me, but I'm certain others will comment at length on them.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 1/15/17 8:49 AM, rob.mclear3@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Hi to all


First off I have posted this to a number of groups so I apologise if you get it more than once.   I am able to access a Decal maker here in Australia who is able to print white decals.   I am interested to put reweigh dates on my boxcars and am wondering what the codes would have been.   For instance I know that San Bernardino shops used SB so a reweigh date would have looked like SB 9-47.   But I don't know what the other shops were I suspect that Kansas City would have been KS and maybe Corwith would be CW, the only other one I know about may have been La Junta with LJ but I don't have a clue as to the rest.   


I am only talking about Santa Fe cars here and in the period before 1948.   As to others such as Wabash, NYC, NKP, Pennsylvania  and others I will have to find that later.   Also for information I am modelling in HO.


Regards

Rob McLear

Aussie.




Re: Re weigh locations

Charles Peck
 

In the group files is a document listing many shop symbols for many railroads.
There would be the first place I would start.
Chuck Peck in FL

On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:49 AM, rob.mclear3@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Hi to all


First off I have posted this to a number of groups so I apologise if you get it more than once.   I am able to access a Decal maker here in Australia who is able to print white decals.   I am interested to put reweigh dates on my boxcars and am wondering what the codes would have been.   For instance I know that San Bernardino shops used SB so a reweigh date would have looked like SB 9-47.   But I don't know what the other shops were I suspect that Kansas City would have been KS and maybe Corwith would be CW, the only other one I know about may have been La Junta with LJ but I don't have a clue as to the rest.   


I am only talking about Santa Fe cars here and in the period before 1948.   As to others such as Wabash, NYC, NKP, Pennsylvania  and others I will have to find that later.   Also for information I am modelling in HO.


Regards

Rob McLear

Aussie.




Re: D&H open tops

anthony wagner
 

Don, Tichy is a good source. I have both his 10147 and 10165 sets. To properly letter a car in the 1949 era that I model requires a modest amount of piecing using both sets. Tony Wagner




On Sunday, January 15, 2017 7:46 AM, "riverman_vt@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
    That info confirms everything I've been told about paint for D&H hoppers but does anyone 
know of a good source for decals for D&H hoppers, gons and boxcars in the 1935 to 1950 era?

Thanks for any suggestions, Don Valentine



Re weigh locations

rob.mclear3@...
 

Hi to all


First off I have posted this to a number of groups so I apologise if you get it more than once.   I am able to access a Decal maker here in Australia who is able to print white decals.   I am interested to put reweigh dates on my boxcars and am wondering what the codes would have been.   For instance I know that San Bernardino shops used SB so a reweigh date would have looked like SB 9-47.   But I don't know what the other shops were I suspect that Kansas City would have been KS and maybe Corwith would be CW, the only other one I know about may have been La Junta with LJ but I don't have a clue as to the rest.   


I am only talking about Santa Fe cars here and in the period before 1948.   As to others such as Wabash, NYC, NKP, Pennsylvania  and others I will have to find that later.   Also for information I am modelling in HO.


Regards

Rob McLear

Aussie.



Re: D&H open tops

riverman_vt@...
 

    That info confirms everything I've been told about paint for D&H hoppers but does anyone 
know of a good source for decals for D&H hoppers, gons and boxcars in the 1935 to 1950 era?

Thanks for any suggestions, Don Valentine


Re: D&H open tops

anthony wagner
 

Eric thanks for that info. That leads me to ask was the circular herald always used with the black paint or was it applied later in the 1940s? Thanks for your answer, Tony Wagner


On Saturday, January 14, 2017 11:50 AM, "anycw1@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
I'm trying to find out what color D&H painted their open top cars in the post WW2 era, specifically hopper cars circa 1949 or so. Web searches yield nothing.  Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Wagner



Re: Monon #37 w/Archer Surface Details Update

Allan Smith
 

Evergreen Scale Models makes a half round rod in various small sizes 1mm 1.5mm. I don't know if this is small enough for the raised round stampings you show in the attached photos. If you go to Evergreen Scale Models web site and look at the catalog you might find what your looking for. 

Al Smith
Sonora Ca


On Saturday, January 14, 2017 9:37 AM, "destorzek@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
I always found the way to turn round styrene rod into a simulated weld bead or whatever was to cement it into a scribed line. Done correctly, it has these advantages:

1. Since the scribing was done along a straightedge, the bead will be straight.
2. If the scribe is the proper depth, it will bury half the diameter of the rod, which is what you want.

The trick is getting the scribing right. Pulling a knife blade along will turn up a burr on each side of the line, which will make the rod stand higher; which may be what you need. Using a V shaped tool to excavate the material in the groove (pulling a small curl out of the sheet as you go) then lightly sanding the sheet to remove any burrs will allow the rod to sit lower. It's best to make some practice pieces to get the technique down before doing the final part.

If these are ribs that go all the way across the roof, you could also build the roof surface as a lamination over a properly shaped substrate, using .010 x .020 styrene strips on edge for the ribs, surrounded by  strips of .015" thick styrene sheet. This would yield 1" wide rectangular ribs standing 1/2" high in HO scale.

Dennis Storzek



Re: D&H open tops

Eric Hansmann
 

John Nehrich of the RPI NEB&W group posted this on Facebook a week or so back.

 

Just to let people know - from what we can see, all D&H freight cars were painted freight car red until about 1941, when they switched to black for the open-top cars. It seems that cars with the circular herald, either the "Century of Anthracite" or the 1950 "Bridge Line" version, had switched to black.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

El Paso, TX

 

 

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2017 10:50 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] D&H open tops

 




I'm trying to find out what color D&H painted their open top cars in the post WW2 era, specifically hopper cars circa 1949 or so. Web searches yield nothing.  Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Wagner



D&H open tops

anthony wagner
 

I'm trying to find out what color D&H painted their open top cars in the post WW2 era, specifically hopper cars circa 1949 or so. Web searches yield nothing.  Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Wagner


Re: Monon #37 w/Archer Surface Details Update

Dennis Storzek
 

I always found the way to turn round styrene rod into a simulated weld bead or whatever was to cement it into a scribed line. Done correctly, it has these advantages:

1. Since the scribing was done along a straightedge, the bead will be straight.
2. If the scribe is the proper depth, it will bury half the diameter of the rod, which is what you want.

The trick is getting the scribing right. Pulling a knife blade along will turn up a burr on each side of the line, which will make the rod stand higher; which may be what you need. Using a V shaped tool to excavate the material in the groove (pulling a small curl out of the sheet as you go) then lightly sanding the sheet to remove any burrs will allow the rod to sit lower. It's best to make some practice pieces to get the technique down before doing the final part.

If these are ribs that go all the way across the roof, you could also build the roof surface as a lamination over a properly shaped substrate, using .010 x .020 styrene strips on edge for the ribs, surrounded by  strips of .015" thick styrene sheet. This would yield 1" wide rectangular ribs standing 1/2" high in HO scale.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Monon #37 w/Archer Surface Details Update

Bill Welch
 

Dean

I looked at my Archer panel line decals this morning and I don't think event the widest ones have enough profile, plus there are only three lines so you would need 2-3 sets.

Instead I suggest using 0.010 styrene rod. Once it is down and given a chance to cure here are two ways to make it look like a stamping

—flow thin CA along each side to "fill" each side. You may decide doing this twice will be necessary. When cured fold some #600 sandpaper and run the fold along each edge. I have used this method and the effect is very convincing I think.

—similarly run Testors liquid cement down each side. This will require a substrate of maybe .60 styrene to prevent distortion. Maybe alternate by running the Testors along the top of the rod. This will gradually melt the rod to give it a stamped look.

Bill Welch


Seeking info on cil o/b boxcars

Eric Lombard
 

Brad, I can send you a set service histories for the series included in CI&L 2000-3600. If you are interested, drop me an email at:


elombard@...


Eric Lombard

Homewood, IL

36541 - 36560 of 183463