Date   

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Tim O'Connor
 


Rolling stock, never.

But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut wood (out
of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood sealant). I guess
if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-)

And I'll probably use them for large structures like truss bridges.

Tim O'Connor



How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world
why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush? 
 
Show of hands...
 
Greg Martin 
 


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Scott,

No, I didn't think you were confrontational. But there's really not much to say. I just test the spray first to make sure it is shooting right before aiming it at a model. Then several light coats are blown with the can aimed just before the model, ending beyond the model on the other side. I usually let each coat dry a bit before going at the model again. Standard stuff. Sometimes it works well, other times not so good. Given the infamous clogging problems with Floquil cans, most of the primers shoot much better. Of course, weather is a factor. I can't do models when the temperature is below 55 degrees, and it's not easy when the wind is blowing.

I also do a lot of brush work on structures and figures with craft store acrylic paints, including Plaid, Anita's, Americana and Folk Art brands. These are also good for wash-weathering on freight cars, or just dabbing with a 1/4" brush on underframes. Right now I'm using these acrylics and a 0000 brush on some O-scale figures for a future English narrow gauge layout. Next step, buttons, lips and eyeballs.

I use a matte art acrylic spray as a sealer. Testors Dullcote or Pactra Flat were best, I can't find them anymore. Plaid Clear Acrylic Sealer from the art store works fairly well, except in high humidity when it sometimes dries milky. This explains my interest in the new Rustoleum product.

Yours Aye,


Garth


On 1/16/17 5:57 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote:
 
 

Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well.  That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.




Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Scott H. Haycock
 

Garth,

I have a spray booth, but don't want to knock a hole in a wall, etc. So I take it outside to use it. This sounds odd- Why don't I just spray in the open?

The booths fan removes over spray, and protects the model from stray drafts. I live in New Mexico, and even in winter, we'll get days where I can do this outdoors.

As to using spray cans, Google "Replacement spray can nozzles" You can get better nozzles that will produce a finer mist.

Scott Haycock

 


 

Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?

Yours Aye,


Garth




Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Scott H. Haycock
 

 

Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well.  That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.



Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?

Yours Aye,


Garth

On 1/16/17 5:30 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote:
 
So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock


 



Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff








Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Scott H. Haycock
 

So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock


 



Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff







Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Benjamin Hom
 

Greg Martin asked:
"How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In
today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic
airbrush?


Show of hands..."

Actually, I do if the color is available. I hate cleaning the airbrush.


Ben Hom


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Greg,

Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 1/16/17 2:24 AM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?  
 
Show of hands...
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

 

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA



Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Greg Martin
 

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?  
 
Show of hands...
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

 

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Re weigh locations

rob.mclear3@...
 

Tony thank you I have downloaded that and has answered all of my questions in one hit.   I didn't know of that resource and will have to keep it in mind in future thank you so much.

Rob McLear
Aussie.


Re: D&H open tops

Benjamin Hom
 

Bill Dale wrote:

"In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611. First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black. Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant. Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier. The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it. For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53."

Sorry, Bill, 209 cars is not "a lot", even where the D&H is concerned. It pales next to the 3500+ Seley cars (51%) and the ~1400 30 ft 11 in fishbelly twins (20%) on the roster in the July 1950 ORER, making up a whopping 3% of the D&H hopper fleet.


Ben Hom


Re: D&H open tops

William Dale
 

I forgot to add this earlier for those who may be interested.  The D&H also had their fleet of L.C.L air activated cement canister gondolas, originally 15950-15969, and then added 15900-15914.  These appeared in the early 1940's and were red.  To the best of my knowledge these never wore black.  I have a photo of 15911, Oneonta 8-64 still wearing it's red paint.  Now, Shortline Products makes a set of decals for the air cement canisters covering the D&H, NYC, DL&W, and LV.

Bill


Re: D&H open tops

William Dale
 

Group,

         I wanted to add  to this topic in regards to paint and decals available.  In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611.  First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black.  Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant.  Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier.  The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it.  For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53.  Now for decals, in HO, are as mentioned earlier the Tichy offerings, Westerfield D3309 for the USRA single sheath box cars, C-D-S 591 was for the USRA 2-bay hoppers converted to covered hoppers in the red scheme, nos. 3201-3220.  All were in service as of January '53 in grey though.  I don't know when they were changed like the USRA single sheath box cars also in cement service, and F&C has the early gondola sets.  Lastly, years back the O&W car shop imported brass Seley hoppers cars and had a very nice decal set to finish them off.  I have two sets packed away, but they are still listed as set #1004 on the Old and Weary Car Shop website.

Bill


Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

thecitrusbelt@...
 

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

 

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Resin kits for sale...

Jack Burgess
 

When I mentioned in my email that “…the rest are no longer available” I was referring to the kits no longer being available from the original source such as Sunshine and Speedwitch. Until they are sold, all of the kits on the list are available to be purchased.

 

Jack Burgess

 


Re: Re weigh locations

Tony Thompson
 

      Odd how people forget , but there is a VERY comprehensive list of reweigh symbols, still on the "steam era freight cars" web site, originally compiled by Richard Hendrickson and added to by many others. Here's the link. You might wish to do as I did, and download it for your own files.


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Resin kits for sale...

Jack Burgess
 

Resin kits for sale…

 

Like some others, I have a pile of resins kits stashed away. But rather than deciding that I don’t have time to build them all, I have realized that I should not have purchased some of them in the first place. Most of the kits in this group are freight cars from eastern roads that would most likely never be seen on the Yosemite Valley Railroad as well as foreign stock cars and automobile cars. Not sure what I was thinking back then.

 

So, I have 15 resin kits for sale from Speedwitch, Sunshine, Westerfield, Funaro & Camerlengo, and Des Plaines Valley Car and Foundry. A few of the Westerfield cars are still available but the rest of no longer available.

 

To download the list, go to

 

http://www.yosemitevalleyrr.com/clinics

 

and click on Resin Kits for Sale at the bottom of the list.

 

Jack Burgess

 


Re: Re weigh locations

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Rob,

From my notes on previous discussions (IIRC contributed by the late Richard Hendrickson):

TOP--Topeka

SAN--San Bernardino

CLE--Cleburne, Texas


From the Champ decal set:

AM, AQ, CY, FM, KC, LJ, SB, TS and WC. Some are obvious, other are unknown to me, but I'm certain others will comment at length on them.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 1/15/17 8:49 AM, rob.mclear3@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Hi to all


First off I have posted this to a number of groups so I apologise if you get it more than once.   I am able to access a Decal maker here in Australia who is able to print white decals.   I am interested to put reweigh dates on my boxcars and am wondering what the codes would have been.   For instance I know that San Bernardino shops used SB so a reweigh date would have looked like SB 9-47.   But I don't know what the other shops were I suspect that Kansas City would have been KS and maybe Corwith would be CW, the only other one I know about may have been La Junta with LJ but I don't have a clue as to the rest.   


I am only talking about Santa Fe cars here and in the period before 1948.   As to others such as Wabash, NYC, NKP, Pennsylvania  and others I will have to find that later.   Also for information I am modelling in HO.


Regards

Rob McLear

Aussie.




Re: Re weigh locations

Charles Peck
 

In the group files is a document listing many shop symbols for many railroads.
There would be the first place I would start.
Chuck Peck in FL

On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:49 AM, rob.mclear3@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Hi to all


First off I have posted this to a number of groups so I apologise if you get it more than once.   I am able to access a Decal maker here in Australia who is able to print white decals.   I am interested to put reweigh dates on my boxcars and am wondering what the codes would have been.   For instance I know that San Bernardino shops used SB so a reweigh date would have looked like SB 9-47.   But I don't know what the other shops were I suspect that Kansas City would have been KS and maybe Corwith would be CW, the only other one I know about may have been La Junta with LJ but I don't have a clue as to the rest.   


I am only talking about Santa Fe cars here and in the period before 1948.   As to others such as Wabash, NYC, NKP, Pennsylvania  and others I will have to find that later.   Also for information I am modelling in HO.


Regards

Rob McLear

Aussie.




Re: D&H open tops

anthony wagner
 

Don, Tichy is a good source. I have both his 10147 and 10165 sets. To properly letter a car in the 1949 era that I model requires a modest amount of piecing using both sets. Tony Wagner




On Sunday, January 15, 2017 7:46 AM, "riverman_vt@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
    That info confirms everything I've been told about paint for D&H hoppers but does anyone 
know of a good source for decals for D&H hoppers, gons and boxcars in the 1935 to 1950 era?

Thanks for any suggestions, Don Valentine


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