Date   

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Chuck Cover
 

For all of my projects, locomotives, freight cars and structures, I first use a spray can of flat black as a primer.  I have used various brands including ACE and Rust-Oleum.  For the finish color I will use the air brush when I have an acceptable color available.  I favor the left over Floquil that I have horded and Scalecoat.  I do not like to use acrylic paints in the airbrush.

 

I recently found ACE  red oxide primer to be a reasonable FCC for PRR rolling stock.  I use a spray booth for all solvent based painting and adhesives.  The spray booth is next to a double hung window that I removed the screen from and put in a piece of plywood with a vent for the spray booth.  When I use the spray booth, I open the window and attach the exhaust to the vent.  When I am done, just disconnect the exhaust and close the window.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM  


Re: My Airbrush Cleaning Routine

Clark Propst
 

I’ll put myself at the opposite end of the spectrum from Bill  ;  ) After spraying enamels or whatever I just squirt brake cleaner through my Paasche H3. If I used acrylics I hold it under the faucet and run water through it. I do break it down a couple times a year.  Important to have a sink near your paint booth.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Clark Propst
 

I’ve used spray cans at work forever, some brands are better than others. At home I’ve used Testors Dullcote in a can years ago, but it seemed to always end up with a spotty finish? Lately I’ve used white primer to paint a couple large structures. Here in the north country it would be difficult you use rattle cans year round. I need to paint some trees. Later this week it’s suppose to (maybe) hit 40. I’ll lay a drop cloth over my work bench in the garage, stick the trees in foam, run out to the garage, spray them with a couple different camo shades and run them back in the basement. I have a large paint booth, but not large enough to paint a gaggle of trees in.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

tjcataldo
 

HI 
If go to your local auto body supply store ask a flat  compound  you add to paint  
You put it in model paint to get that flat  finish

     Tom

On Sunday, January 15, 2017, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?  
 
Show of hands...
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

 

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA



--
Thomas  j Cataldo


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

T.J. Stratton
 

I'm a Badger airbrush fan.  I use their line of paints as well as Tru Color and Scalecoat II.  I have a paint booth that vents to the outdoors thru a dryer vent in the block windows.  While a rattle can sounds slick, I feel that the paint flow could be way be too heavy for painting of H.O. size rolling stock.  I have painted a number of buildings with rattle cans with fine results.  


Regarding economic airbrush set ups, several years ago I purchased a small compressor and airbrush as a set from Harbor Freight, for about $75 as I recall.  That kept me painting when recalled to active duty during Operation Iraqi Freedom.  I only used Badger paint thru that rig but still, I have no complaints about the results.


TJ Stratton Maumee, OH. "Modeling the 1950's branch lines of the Michigan Central Railroad in southern Michigan" Mailto:michigancentralrr@...



From: STMFC@... on behalf of tgregmrtn@... [STMFC]
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 2:24 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
 
 

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?  
 
Show of hands...
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

 

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Virtual RPM

Eric Hansmann
 

Several people sent photos and descriptions of their latest model work after we sent out a call a couple of weeks ago. Check out the latest Virtual RPM on the Resin Car Works blog!

http://blog.resincarworks.com/january-2017-virtual-rpm/



Eric Hansmann
RCW web guy


Branchline Freight Car Ends

Nelson Moyer
 

I’ve searched unsuccessfully for Branchline 10002, R+3/4 improved early Dreadnaught boxcar ends. Is there a source of Branchline ends and doors?

 

Nelson Moyer


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Spen Kellogg <spninetynine@...>
 

On 1/16/2017 4:45 AM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] wrote:
�


Rolling stock, never.

But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut wood (out
of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood sealant). I guess
if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-)

Tim,

I had heard that one should avoid Minwax products because they had wax in them. Have you noticed this, or does the clear coat not have any wax in it?

Spen Kellogg


Re: D&H open tops

Craig Zeni
 

On Jan 16, 2017, at 3:47 AM, STMFC@... wrote:

1c. Re: D&H open tops
Posted by: williamdale75@... williamdale75
Date: Sun Jan 15, 2017 3:14 pm ((PST))

Group,

I wanted to add to this topic in regards to paint and decals available. In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611. First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black. Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant. Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier. The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it. For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53. Now for decals, in HO, are as mentioned earlier the Tichy offerings, Westerfield D3309 for the USRA single sheath box cars, C-D-S 591 was for the USRA 2-bay hoppers converted to covered hoppers in the red scheme, nos. 3201-3220. All were in service as of January '53 in grey though. I don't know when they were changed like the USRA single sheath box cars also in cement service, and F&C has the early gondola sets. Lastly, years back the O&W car shop imported brass Seley hoppers cars and had a very nice decal set to finish them off. I have two sets packed away, but they are still listed as set #1004 on the Old and Weary Car Shop website.
The O&WCS web site is almost invariably very out of date; I bought his last pair of Genesis F3s several years ago but they're still listed on the web site. Best to call and see what Al has on the shelf. As an O&W modeler I have some of those Seley cars on the shelf along with some of the little brass O&W drop bottom coal gons and his lovely O&W cabooses.

I have a thing for the D&H's big Consolidations...but the O&W's rag tag fleet of second hand hoppers bought in various LOTS just makes it entertaining to model. That, along with the high percentage of bridge traffic on the lower part of the route makes it easy to scratch the freight car itch. After all, when the road never owned a 40' steel or wood box car...scratch away :)

Craig Zeni
Cary NC


My Airbrush Cleaning Routine

Bill Welch
 

As we have witnessed, painting our models is a very personal choice. With the advice of a plastic modeling magazine editor about 56 years ago, I purchased a Binks "Wren" airbrush and a small compressor with no way to control the PSI or know what it was. However the combo worked well with the paint of the day, in 1964 probably Patra or Testors, but definitely solvent based. I opened my bedroom window and sprayed into a cardboard box. I remember even then struggling to keep the airbrush clean. Some of my problems were from a lack of discipline to clean completely after each paint session.


In 1992 when I began modeling freight cars I decided to go "water based Acrylics" only because they are not toxic, secondarily because of ease of cleanup, but by then I had learned to clean as I go. I have been pretty disciplined with this. BTW I Paint w/Badger's Modelflex paint


The greatest assist in keeping my airbrushes clean is 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. My routine after painting is to initially flush with Distilled water, including back-flushing, and then spraying/flushing w/the Isopropyl. Then I pull the needle out and wipe it w/a paper towel wetted with Isopropyl to remove any paint buildup. That is all the "disassembly" I routinely do. Once the needle is back in place, I spray more Isopropyl and finish with more water. My cleaning station is a brown paper bag with crumpled paper to catch the water and Isopropyl.


Bill Welch

 


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Donald B. Valentine
 

Hi Greg,

    Paasche airbrush user since 1967.....50 years.....and cannot understand anyone using a spray can
to paint with though I admit to it for Testors Dullcote on occasion.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: D&H open tops

Donald B. Valentine
 




---In STMFC@..., <williamdale75@...> wrote :

I forgot to add this earlier for those who may be interested.  The D&H also had their fleet of L.C.L air activated cement canister gondolas, originally 15950-15969, and then added 15900-15914.  These appeared in the early 1940's and were red.  To the best of my knowledge these never wore black.  I have a photo of 15911, Oneonta 8-64 still wearing it's red paint.  Now, Shortline Products makes a set of decals for the air cement canisters covering the D&H, NYC, DL&W, and LV.

Bill


    Thank you Bill. This is all good information to have. I have three of Allan Seebachs (sp?) O&W Car
Shops brass D&H hoppers in wo configurations and am pleased to have them though I usually prefer
injection molded or resin for the freight car fleet. But when something like those hoppers comes along 
and is the only game in town short of scratchbuilding there is room for and exception or two. A fair
amount of coal came into Vermont from the D&H branch into Rutland and a small amount over the "Slate
Picker" branch that crisscrossed the VT-NY border. But it also came in via the D&H connections with
both the Rutland and the Boston & Maine so the D&H hoppers could be seen almost anywhere in the 
state even if not as common hoppers of the B&O, which seem to be the most frequently seen in our era
judging from thousands of photos seen over the years. Then, too, the Rutland used to transfer coal from
off line hoppers to its own for delivery simply to cut down per diem charges. Other roads ay have done
this too but it seemed to be a standard practice for years on the Rutland.

   Can you also suggest a source of black D&H decals for the gray covered hoppers used for cement?
I hated taking cement samples from those cars in the summer of 1967 because when loaded the top of 
the load was a good 3 - 4 ft. below the open hatch and we had no scoop to reach it with for sampling. 
Thus one had to climb down on top of it. Not fun. Wait until the end of the work day and get a shower 
and change of clothes as quickly as one could. Quite a bit of cement came into Vermont in those
cars before the "Ft. Edward Express" took over the buik of cement delivery into Vermont. Now it all
comes in air dump trailers from three points in Quebec.

Cordially, Don Valentine



Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Tim O'Connor
 


Rolling stock, never.

But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut wood (out
of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood sealant). I guess
if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-)

And I'll probably use them for large structures like truss bridges.

Tim O'Connor



How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world
why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush? 
 
Show of hands...
 
Greg Martin 
 


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Scott,

No, I didn't think you were confrontational. But there's really not much to say. I just test the spray first to make sure it is shooting right before aiming it at a model. Then several light coats are blown with the can aimed just before the model, ending beyond the model on the other side. I usually let each coat dry a bit before going at the model again. Standard stuff. Sometimes it works well, other times not so good. Given the infamous clogging problems with Floquil cans, most of the primers shoot much better. Of course, weather is a factor. I can't do models when the temperature is below 55 degrees, and it's not easy when the wind is blowing.

I also do a lot of brush work on structures and figures with craft store acrylic paints, including Plaid, Anita's, Americana and Folk Art brands. These are also good for wash-weathering on freight cars, or just dabbing with a 1/4" brush on underframes. Right now I'm using these acrylics and a 0000 brush on some O-scale figures for a future English narrow gauge layout. Next step, buttons, lips and eyeballs.

I use a matte art acrylic spray as a sealer. Testors Dullcote or Pactra Flat were best, I can't find them anymore. Plaid Clear Acrylic Sealer from the art store works fairly well, except in high humidity when it sometimes dries milky. This explains my interest in the new Rustoleum product.

Yours Aye,


Garth


On 1/16/17 5:57 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote:
 
 

Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well.  That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.




Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Scott H. Haycock
 

Garth,

I have a spray booth, but don't want to knock a hole in a wall, etc. So I take it outside to use it. This sounds odd- Why don't I just spray in the open?

The booths fan removes over spray, and protects the model from stray drafts. I live in New Mexico, and even in winter, we'll get days where I can do this outdoors.

As to using spray cans, Google "Replacement spray can nozzles" You can get better nozzles that will produce a finer mist.

Scott Haycock

 


 

Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?

Yours Aye,


Garth




Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Scott H. Haycock
 

 

Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well.  That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.



Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?

Yours Aye,


Garth

On 1/16/17 5:30 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote:
 
So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock


 



Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff








Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Scott H. Haycock
 

So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock


 



Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff







Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Benjamin Hom
 

Greg Martin asked:
"How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In
today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic
airbrush?


Show of hands..."

Actually, I do if the color is available. I hate cleaning the airbrush.


Ben Hom


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Greg,

Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 1/16/17 2:24 AM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?  
 
Show of hands...
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

 

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

 

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

 

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA