Date   

Re: Air hoses

Tim O'Connor
 

Jack

You are absolutely right. I have 550+ images of the B-ends of freight
cars on my hard drive and every one is tilted. It's amazing also to see
the incredibly variety of brackets and hangers and home made doo-dads
employed to hold the brake hoses exactly where they need to be.

Tim O'



Keep in mind that air hoses are required to be mounted at a 30 degrees
angle, tipped toward the coupler.

Jack Burgess


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Bill Welch
 

I have used the Microscale Clear Coats for 20+ years, flat and gloss, thinned about 50/50 w/Distilled water. Sprayed w/a Badger 155 Anthem siphon feed AB w/.75 needle/nozzle combo at 20 PSI.

Recently however I did try some Vallejo Model Air flat with good results.

Bill Welch


Re: Air hoses

Jack Burgess
 

Keep in mind that air hoses are required to be mounted at a 30 degrees
angle, tipped toward the coupler.

Jack Burgess


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

naptownprr
 

Chuck,

When you write ACE, do you mean the brand of paint or the hardware store?

Jim


From: STMFC@... on behalf of 'Chuck Cover' chuck.cover@... [STMFC]
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 10:12 AM,


To: STMFC@...
Sub [STMFC] Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
 
 

For all of my projects, locomotives, freight cars and structures, I first use a spray can of flat black as a primer.  I have used various brands including ACE and Rust-Oleum.  For the finish color I will use the air brush when I have an acceptable color available.  I favor the left over Floquil that I have horded and Scalecoat.  I do not like to use acrylic paints in the airbrush.

 

I recently found ACE  red oxide primer to be a reasonable FCC for PRR rolling stock.  I use a spray booth for all solvent based painting and adhesives.  The spray booth is next to a double hung window that I removed the screen from and put in a piece of plywood with a vent for the spray booth.  When I use the spray booth, I open the window and attach the exhaust to the vent.  When I am done, just disconnect the exhaust and close t! he window.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM  


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

O Fenton Wells
 

I got back from Cocoa with a doozie of a stomach virus.  Lost 12 pounds since the Monday after.  Of course I needed to lose weight but not that way.

--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: 7 Ft Youngstown door, HO scale - Help requested

Allan Smith
 

Branchline part 140006 7' youngstown door is what you are looking for. There was a note about buying old Branchline parts from Atlas but also from Cannon & Company

Al Smith
Sonora Ca


On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 11:17 AM, "srrfan1401@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
I am kitbashing some 40 ft. DD boxcars in HO scale and need 2 sets of 7 ft Youngstown doors that are 5-6-5 corrugations.  Kadee (Part No. 2235) is right on but the tack board is cast in and I don't feel I can remove it without screwing an otherwise good door casting.  I looked at Southwest Scale and they make it but in a 6 ft wide door.  That may be what I have to do is add a foot to the SW Scale door.
Any other ideas that I may have overlooked from you bashers would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Fenton Wells



Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

John Sykes III
 

Yuz gize stole one of my top secrets!!!

About a month before the CCB Meet, I gave a presentation at my club on "Non-traditional Paints".

My favorite brand is Krylon (I like the trigger action on the Krylon paints better than RustOleum -- I do use RustOleum dark grey automotive sandable primer for the base of my yards, under the cinders.  However, I found that the Krylon paint from WalMart is different from the Krylon paint at Ace Hardware.  The Ace versions I like -- not so the WalMart versions (note they have different SKUs and variety names on either).

For $4.99 a can (12 oz) it is a hellova deal over the 4 oz Model Masters or 6 oz Scalecoat II, the latter at $9.95 a can.  I often have trouble getting that last oz of paint out of a can of Model Masters, too.

My favorite colors are the Krylon primers, which are dead flat.  Including black primer, oxide red primer (which is very near to Floquil oxide red), grey primer (a medium true grey), and white primer.  I have been using these on all the buildings I am constructing for my layout (with some Model Masters & SCII).

One other Krylon color I use a lot is their Metallics "Dull Aluminum".  Works great for any galvanized surface such as freight car roofs, corrugated siding and roofs on buildings, etc. (with appropriate weathering).

I do weather mainly by airbrush, so use a 10% mix of paint to lacquer thinner with various colors for weathering, such as grimy black (PRR), or Steve Hoxie's favorite, roof brown.

-- John

P.S.  I got back from Cocoa incubating one hell of a cold.  Been basically bed ridden for 5 days now.  Got to go pick up an Rx at WalMart this afternoon.  Anyone else catch anything?


7 Ft Youngstown door, HO scale - Help requested

O Fenton Wells
 

I am kitbashing some 40 ft. DD boxcars in HO scale and need 2 sets of 7 ft Youngstown doors that are 5-6-5 corrugations.  Kadee (Part No. 2235) is right on but the tack board is cast in and I don't feel I can remove it without screwing an otherwise good door casting.  I looked at Southwest Scale and they make it but in a 6 ft wide door.  That may be what I have to do is add a foot to the SW Scale door.

Any other ideas that I may have overlooked from you bashers would be appreciated

Thanks in advance

Fenton Wells


UTLX X-3 tank car

frograbbit602
 

I asked for help regarding UTLX X-3 car in a post to which many of you responded with fine photos and data.   Thank You to all who did.  If you are interested in seeing the finished car I have uploaded a couple of photos which are awaiting approval.  If you want to see the car now and are impatient you can see the finished car in a photo in an album on the "resinfreightcars" website. 

Thank You again for time and effort to help.

Lester Breuer




Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Bruce Smith
 

Clark,

Results, not prejudice, indicate that rattle cans can produce superlative outcomes.  I have by no means ditched the airbrush, but the rattle can is another tool in a wide armamentarium of tools to get the job done.  As I noted, I use them on all of my brass PRR models for a base black (under DGLE) as well as the final coat on all black areas (passenger car roofs, underbodies, trucks, locomotive and tender frames and running gear).  In my hands, the Model Master brand spray bombs are an efficient, cost effective, time saving, high quality approach to getting the job done… and unlike specific model paints, I can buy them at my local USA Hobbies or Hobby Lobby.

Next up is a Tichy ACL 76000 series flat car that will get the spray bomb treatment after grit blasting.

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."



On Jan 17, 2017, at 9:18 AM, cepropst@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:



Are those using rattle cans to paint their fine models the same ones that spend big bucks on the tools needed to build them? If so - Weird!
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Clark Propst
 

Are those using rattle cans to paint their fine models the same ones that spend big bucks on the tools needed to build them? If so - Weird!
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: My Airbrush Cleaning Routine

O Fenton Wells
 

That too was my routine.  One word of caution is that the "O" ring in my brush after a while (year or more) bonded to the nozzle and I had to buy a new nozzle.  Now I remove the "O" ring about every 10 to 20 uses and clean it.  
Just say'in

--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: clear Rust Oleum finishes

Rick Jesionowski
 

Well, since the company that got rid of Floquil also owns Rust Oleum, they are on my list of no buys, I only use Krylon and it is a very good finish in flat, matte and satin.

Rick Jesionowski


Re: Tank car handrail brackets

Tim O'Connor
 


Precision Scale #32110 - set of 36



I know that some firm makes these in brass.  I have misplaced that bit of information.
Who makes them?
Schuyler


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Martin Young
 

My model painting is N Scale but the same ideas are there. I use an Iwata double action brush with the paint cup on top. A few years ago I bought at Sears a compressor with a ten gallon air tank. Filling it is noisy but once filled I turn off the compressor and just use the air in the tank. I have a regulator to control the amount of air I get. Plus the air from the tank is cool. I generally had the most problems when painting directly from a compressor. The air is warm and things happen.

Marty
San Diego, CA

---- "tgregmrtn@aol.com [STMFC]" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In
today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?


Show of hands...

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:




At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering
powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks
and powders.
He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called
"Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:
http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu
I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry
it.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA




Re: Tank car handrail brackets

Tony Thompson
 

Schuyler Larrabee wrote:

 
I know that some firm makes these in brass.  I have misplaced that bit of information.

 Who makes them?


      Precision Scale. The part number is (or used to be) 32110.


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Tank car handrail brackets

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I know that some firm makes these in brass.  I have misplaced that bit of information.

 

Who makes them?

 

Schuyler

 


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Well, yes, Bill, it does. Or rather, did. It was McDonald flat lacquer for photo finishing. Unfortunately, I found that about 30+ years ago, and well, a gallon lasts you a L O N G time, even if you give some to your friends.



But I eventually used it up (or it went sideways in the divorce, not sure which) and went to buy some more. And McDonald had by then been bought and folded into another company and didn’t list it anymore. I mean, who needs photo finishing lacquer anymore? I did find a suitable product and will go find the gallon tomorrow (it’s late here) and let you know.



Schuyler







Hello Group,



Schuyler wrote "I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.”



Does this photo finishing flat lacquer have a product name?



Cheers,

Bill Keene

Irvine, CA











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Greg Martin
 

Schuyler writes:

"Wait!!! You mean, paint comes in CANS?"
 
I am surprised at how may folks use spray cans on models and it was interesting as to why they don't use an air brush even though they may own one.
 
I like that opening Schuyler!  I too use spray cans to "bomb' certain things, like roadbed, track, first coat on streets and sub-color for scenery most anywhere... Models no.

"I never use spray cans for model work. I want control over what, where and how much paint I apply."
 
Your right it is called control, something some folks can MASTER with a can I but not I. Since I was a kid on a bike riding to Brookhurst Hobbies in Garden Grove, CA with the original owner the late John Lee (general manager of Knott's Berry Farm) I was trained to use an airbrush, and it was, like Schuyler, a Binks Wren, two as matter of fact and both retired. And a Miller compressor long since retired. The airbrushes I have in the original boxes in the garage for some strange reason, the compressor was scrapped.
 
At the time they were, as the kids say, the BOMB! Now its my Pasche mostly because of the availability of replacement parts. I have several airbrushes (5) and they all serve separate roles, like weathering and the like.

"I have a Binks Wren (two, actually) even still, and have gotten compliments on the results, and have even done custom painting using them. The Binks compressor finally gave out (acquired about 1975) and I bought a Harbor Freight horizontal tank compressor to replace that, which is fine but kind of noisy. I built a spray booth, which goes out the same window opening as the clothes dryer (but not at the same time!) which was fitted (by others) with a dryer vent fitting through a piece of plexi. That will be upgraded to simply through the wall this summer, when the basement rework is closer to being complete.

The Rust Oleum flat sounds interesting, but as faithful readers may recall, years ago I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.

I have used acrylics, but I don’t like them, and they don’t like me.

Schuyler"
 
I have been using an airbrush since the late sixties in my hobby and in school, and Like Tony reminds us that cleaning the airbrush between every change in color or completion of my session I clean my brush. It is a matter of self discipline and no big deal, just do it. I don't like acrylics and I have tried many, I don't use them.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


Re: Air hoses

Schuyler Larrabee
 

No, Tim, I meant a 'set,' meaning a built-in curvature which makes them
assume a shape that wouldn't occur at prototype scale. It IS possible to
get them to hang right, but I have also given up on some of them as
incorrigible.



And yes, I've used some hypodermic tubing to sleeve the rubber hoses onto
the rest of the air line. The only way I know to cut that stuff, though, is
to use a cut-off disk in a Dremel, which doesn't' lead to a lot of
consistency in the length of the sleeves. Anybody out there got a more
controllable technique?



Schuyler


If you mean "sag" instead of "set" I agree. I've used eyebolts or other
means to prevent the droop.

Anyone tried stainless steel hypodermic tube to prevent this? I see a web
site
that sells tube with an O.D. as small as 0.006" ! That's roughly 1/2 the
size of
a #80 drill bit - the drill hole could be made with 0.2mm drill bits. (I
just got
a set of 10 of them from China for $1.99 - shipping included.)

Tim O'

P.S. I've always thought the Branchline air hoses with their box car kits
were
beautiful. But unfortunately, extremely fragile.



I agree with Jack on the Hi-Tech Details hoses. They sometimes have a set
to them that can be eliminated so they will hang properly, but that's the
only drawback. I like their brackets, too.
Schuyler

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