Date   

Undec. Branchline 40-ft Boxcar w/7-ft door coming soon from Atlas

Bill Welch
 

For anyone interested in modeling a GM&O 40-ft DD car using the Speedwitch resin conversion parts, Atlas is expecting a container w/the needed Undec. Branchline 40-ft Boxcar w/7-ft door soon according to their website. I confirmed this w/their Customer Service, which is very helpful and responsive BTW.


They can be ordered directly from Atlas.


Bill Welch



Re: Digest Number 10647

Jedalberg
 

Now after all these 18000 messages, about flat or not flat, or totally flat, l went down to the local HD yesterday---about 800 Rust colors, but no 'dead flat", nada, lots of Matte, etc.I was terribly disapointed1
I normally use either dullcote, or slightly more preferentially, the
ModeMaster flat. It all dulls, and truth be told, is there a big difference? Aside from that , just don't like to get the airbrush out---!
Jim Balberg
Paoli, Pa!

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
To: STMFC <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, Jan 16, 2017 9:34 am
Subject: [STMFC] Digest Number 10647







Steam era freight car discussion group. The time period covered will be from 1900-1960. Group





15 Messages

Digest #10647









1a

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Garth Groff" ggg9y





1b

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Benjamin Hom" benjaminfrank_hom





1c

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott





1d

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Garth Groff" ggg9y





1e

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott





1f

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott





1g

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Garth Groff" ggg9y





1h

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Tim O'Connor" cf5250





1i

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by riverman_vt





1j

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Spen Kellogg" spenkellogg





1k

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "T.J. Stratton" michigancentralrr







2a

Re: D&H open tops by riverman_vt





2b

Re: D&H open tops by "Craig Zeni" sal3060







3

My Airbrush Cleaning Routine by lnbill







4

Branchline Freight Car Ends by "Nelson Moyer" ku0a












Messages



1a

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:41 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Garth Groff" ggg9y




Greg,

Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on
the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't
work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,

Garth Groff

On 1/16/17 2:24 AM, tgregmrtn@aol.com [STMFC] wrote:

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment?
In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic
airbrush?
Show of hands...
Greg Martin
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the
weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for
use with chalks and powders.

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March
called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a
photo link:

_http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu_

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both
carry it.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA










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1b

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:22 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Benjamin Hom" benjaminfrank_hom




Greg Martin asked:
"How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In
today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic
airbrush?


Show of hands..."

Actually, I do if the color is available. I hate cleaning the airbrush.

Ben Hom










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1c

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:30 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott




So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock

----- Original Message -----

Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,

Garth Groff










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1d

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:48 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Garth Groff" ggg9y




Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have
disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge
collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5"
styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards
about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint
performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not
happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will
never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?

Yours Aye,

Garth

On 1/16/17 5:30 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@comcast.net [STMFC] wrote:
So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock

----------------------------------------------------------



Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out
on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they
didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff















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1e

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:57 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott






ms of Use
Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well. That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.










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1f

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:17 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott




Garth,

I have a spray booth, but don't want to knock a hole in a wall, etc. So I take it outside to use it. This sounds odd- Why don't I just spray in the open?

The booths fan removes over spray, and protects the model from stray drafts. I live in New Mexico, and even in winter, we'll get days where I can do this outdoors.

As to using spray cans, Google "Replacement spray can nozzles" You can get better nozzles that will produce a finer mist.

Scott Haycock

----- Original Message -----

Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?
Yours Aye,

Garth










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1g

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:27 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Garth Groff" ggg9y




Scott,

No, I didn't think you were confrontational. But there's really not much
to say. I just test the spray first to make sure it is shooting right
before aiming it at a model. Then several light coats are blown with the
can aimed just before the model, ending beyond the model on the other
side. I usually let each coat dry a bit before going at the model again.
Standard stuff. Sometimes it works well, other times not so good. Given
the infamous clogging problems with Floquil cans, most of the primers
shoot much better. Of course, weather is a factor. I can't do models
when the temperature is below 55 degrees, and it's not easy when the
wind is blowing.

I also do a lot of brush work on structures and figures with craft store
acrylic paints, including Plaid, Anita's, Americana and Folk Art brands.
These are also good for wash-weathering on freight cars, or just dabbing
with a 1/4" brush on underframes. Right now I'm using these acrylics and
a 0000 brush on some O-scale figures for a future English narrow gauge
layout. Next step, buttons, lips and eyeballs.

I use a matte art acrylic spray as a sealer. Testors Dullcote or Pactra
Flat were best, I can't find them anymore. Plaid Clear Acrylic Sealer
from the art store works fairly well, except in high humidity when it
sometimes dries milky. This explains my interest in the new Rustoleum
product.

Yours Aye,

Garth

On 1/16/17 5:57 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@comcast.net [STMFC] wrote:

ms of Use <https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/>;
Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear
confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in
your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or
are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush
painting is near impossible to do well. That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.











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1h

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:45 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Tim O'Connor" cf5250





Rolling stock, never.

But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut wood (out
of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood sealant). I guess
if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-)

And I'll probably use them for large structures like truss bridges.

Tim O'Connor

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world
why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?

Show of hands...

Greg Martin








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1i

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:34 am (PST) . Posted by:

riverman_vt




Hi Greg,

Paasche airbrush user since 1967.....50 years.....and cannot understand anyone using a spray can
to paint with though I admit to it for Testors Dullcote on occasion.


Cordially, Don Valentine









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1j

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:39 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Spen Kellogg" spenkellogg




On 1/16/2017 4:45 AM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@comcast.net [STMFC] wrote:


Rolling stock, never.

But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut
wood (out
of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood
sealant). I guess
if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-)
Tim,

I had heard that one should avoid Minwax products because they had wax
in them. Have you noticed this, or does the clear coat not have any wax
in it?

Spen Kellogg









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1k

Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish





Mon Jan 16, 2017 6:33 am (PST) . Posted by:

"T.J. Stratton" michigancentralrr




I'm a Badger airbrush fan. I use their line of paints as well as Tru Color and Scalecoat II. I have a paint booth that vents to the outdoors thru a dryer vent in the block windows. While a rattle can sounds slick, I feel that the paint flow could be way be too heavy for painting of H.O. size rolling stock. I have painted a number of buildings with rattle cans with fine results.

Regarding economic airbrush set ups, several years ago I purchased a small compressor and airbrush as a set from Harbor Freight, for about $75 as I recall. That kept me painting when recalled to active duty during Operation Iraqi Freedom. I only used Badger paint thru that rig but still, I have no complaints about the results.

TJ Stratton Maumee, OH. "Modeling the 1950's branch lines of the Michigan Central Railroad in southern Michigan" Mailto:michigancentralrr@hotmail.com

________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of tgregmrtn@aol.com [STMFC] <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 2:24 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?

Show of hands...

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA










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2a

Re: D&H open tops





Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:25 am (PST) . Posted by:

riverman_vt







---In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, <williamdale75@...> wrote :

I forgot to add this earlier for those who may be interested. The D&H also had their fleet of L.C.L air activated cement canister gondolas, originally 15950-15969, and then added 15900-15914. These appeared in the early 1940's and were red. To the best of my knowledge these never wore black. I have a photo of 15911, Oneonta 8-64 still wearing it's red paint. Now, Shortline Products makes a set of decals for the air cement canisters covering the D&H, NYC, DL&W, and LV.

Bill




Thank you Bill. This is all good information to have. I have three of Allan Seebachs (sp?) O&W Car
Shops brass D&H hoppers in wo configurations and am pleased to have them though I usually prefer
injection molded or resin for the freight car fleet. But when something like those hoppers comes along
and is the only game in town short of scratchbuilding there is room for and exception or two. A fair
amount of coal came into Vermont from the D&H branch into Rutland and a small amount over the "Slate
Picker" branch that crisscrossed the VT-NY border. But it also came in via the D&H connections with
both the Rutland and the Boston & Maine so the D&H hoppers could be seen almost anywhere in the
state even if not as common hoppers of the B&O, which seem to be the most frequently seen in our era
judging from thousands of photos seen over the years. Then, too, the Rutland used to transfer coal from
off line hoppers to its own for delivery simply to cut down per diem charges. Other roads ay have done
this too but it seemed to be a standard practice for years on the Rutland.


Can you also suggest a source of black D&H decals for the gray covered hoppers used for cement?
I hated taking cement samples from those cars in the summer of 1967 because when loaded the top of
the load was a good 3 - 4 ft. below the open hatch and we had no scoop to reach it with for sampling.
Thus one had to climb down on top of it. Not fun. Wait until the end of the work day and get a shower
and a change of clothes as quickly as one could. Quite a bit of cement came into Vermont in those
cars before the "Ft. Edward Express" took over the buik of cement delivery into Vermont. Now it all
comes in air dump trailers from three points in Quebec.


Cordially, Don Valentine














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2b

Re: D&H open tops





Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:36 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Craig Zeni" sal3060





On Jan 16, 2017, at 3:47 AM, STMFC@yahoogroups.com wrote:

1c. Re: D&H open tops
Posted by: williamdale75@yahoo.com williamdale75
Date: Sun Jan 15, 2017 3:14 pm ((PST))

Group,

I wanted to add to this topic in regards to paint and decals available. In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611. First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black. Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant. Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier. The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it. For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53. Now for decals, in HO, are as mentioned earlier the Tichy offerings, Westerfield D3309 for the USRA single sheath box cars, C-D-S 591 was for the USRA 2-bay hoppers converted to covered hoppers in the red scheme, nos. 3201-3220. All were in service as of January '53 in grey though. I don't know when they were changed li ke the USRA single sheath box cars also in cement service, and F&C has the early gondola sets. Lastly, years back the O&W car shop imported brass Seley hoppers cars and had a very nice decal set to finish them off. I have two sets packed away, but they are still listed as set #1004 on the Old and Weary Car Shop website.
The O&WCS web site is almost invariably very out of date; I bought his last pair of Genesis F3s several years ago but they're still listed on the web site. Best to call and see what Al has on the shelf. As an O&W modeler I have some of those Seley cars on the shelf along with some of the little brass O&W drop bottom coal gons and his lovely O&W cabooses.

I have a thing for the D&H's big Consolidations...but the O&W's rag tag fleet of second hand hoppers bought in various LOTS just makes it entertaining to model. That, along with the high percentage of bridge traffic on the lower part of the route makes it easy to scratch the freight car itch. After all, when the road never owned a 40' steel or wood box car...scratch away :)

Craig Zeni
Cary NC










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3

My Airbrush Cleaning Routine





Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:35 am (PST) . Posted by:

lnbill




As we have witnessed, painting our models is a very personal choice. With the advice of a plastic modeling magazine editor about 56 years ago, I purchased a Binks "Wren" airbrush and a small compressor with no way to control the PSI or know what it was. However the combo worked well with the paint of the day, in 1964 probably Patra or Testors, but definitely solvent based. I opened my bedroom window and sprayed into a cardboard box. I remember even then struggling to keep the airbrush clean. Some of my problems were from a lack of discipline to clean completely after each paint session.


In 1992 when I began modeling freight cars I decided to go "water based Acrylics" only because they are not toxic, secondarily because of ease of cleanup, but by then I had learned to clean as I go. I have been pretty disciplined with this. BTW I Paint w/Badger's Modelflex paint


The greatest assist in keeping my airbrushes clean is 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. My routine after painting is to initially flush with Distilled water, including back-flushing, and then spraying/flushing w/the Isopropyl. Then I pull the needle out and wipe it w/a paper towel wetted with Isopropyl to remove any paint buildup. That is all the "disassembly" I routinely do. Once the needle is back in place, I spray more Isopropyl and finish with more water. My cleaning station is a brown paper bag with crumpled paper to catch the water and Isopropyl.


Bill Welch










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4

Branchline Freight Car Ends





Mon Jan 16, 2017 6:29 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Nelson Moyer" ku0a




I've searched unsuccessfully for Branchline 10002, R+3/4 improved early Dreadnaught boxcar ends. Is there a source of Branchline ends and doors?

Nelson Moyer









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VISIT YOUR GROUP New Members 1 New Photos 16

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Re: Air hoses

Tim O'Connor
 

Jack

You are absolutely right. I have 550+ images of the B-ends of freight
cars on my hard drive and every one is tilted. It's amazing also to see
the incredibly variety of brackets and hangers and home made doo-dads
employed to hold the brake hoses exactly where they need to be.

Tim O'



Keep in mind that air hoses are required to be mounted at a 30 degrees
angle, tipped toward the coupler.

Jack Burgess


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Bill Welch
 

I have used the Microscale Clear Coats for 20+ years, flat and gloss, thinned about 50/50 w/Distilled water. Sprayed w/a Badger 155 Anthem siphon feed AB w/.75 needle/nozzle combo at 20 PSI.

Recently however I did try some Vallejo Model Air flat with good results.

Bill Welch


Re: Air hoses

Jack Burgess
 

Keep in mind that air hoses are required to be mounted at a 30 degrees
angle, tipped toward the coupler.

Jack Burgess


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

naptownprr
 

Chuck,

When you write ACE, do you mean the brand of paint or the hardware store?

Jim


From: STMFC@... on behalf of 'Chuck Cover' chuck.cover@... [STMFC]
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 10:12 AM,


To: STMFC@...
Sub [STMFC] Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
 
 

For all of my projects, locomotives, freight cars and structures, I first use a spray can of flat black as a primer.  I have used various brands including ACE and Rust-Oleum.  For the finish color I will use the air brush when I have an acceptable color available.  I favor the left over Floquil that I have horded and Scalecoat.  I do not like to use acrylic paints in the airbrush.

 

I recently found ACE  red oxide primer to be a reasonable FCC for PRR rolling stock.  I use a spray booth for all solvent based painting and adhesives.  The spray booth is next to a double hung window that I removed the screen from and put in a piece of plywood with a vent for the spray booth.  When I use the spray booth, I open the window and attach the exhaust to the vent.  When I am done, just disconnect the exhaust and close t! he window.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM  


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

O Fenton Wells
 

I got back from Cocoa with a doozie of a stomach virus.  Lost 12 pounds since the Monday after.  Of course I needed to lose weight but not that way.

--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: 7 Ft Youngstown door, HO scale - Help requested

Allan Smith
 

Branchline part 140006 7' youngstown door is what you are looking for. There was a note about buying old Branchline parts from Atlas but also from Cannon & Company

Al Smith
Sonora Ca


On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 11:17 AM, "srrfan1401@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
I am kitbashing some 40 ft. DD boxcars in HO scale and need 2 sets of 7 ft Youngstown doors that are 5-6-5 corrugations.  Kadee (Part No. 2235) is right on but the tack board is cast in and I don't feel I can remove it without screwing an otherwise good door casting.  I looked at Southwest Scale and they make it but in a 6 ft wide door.  That may be what I have to do is add a foot to the SW Scale door.
Any other ideas that I may have overlooked from you bashers would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Fenton Wells



Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

John Sykes III
 

Yuz gize stole one of my top secrets!!!

About a month before the CCB Meet, I gave a presentation at my club on "Non-traditional Paints".

My favorite brand is Krylon (I like the trigger action on the Krylon paints better than RustOleum -- I do use RustOleum dark grey automotive sandable primer for the base of my yards, under the cinders.  However, I found that the Krylon paint from WalMart is different from the Krylon paint at Ace Hardware.  The Ace versions I like -- not so the WalMart versions (note they have different SKUs and variety names on either).

For $4.99 a can (12 oz) it is a hellova deal over the 4 oz Model Masters or 6 oz Scalecoat II, the latter at $9.95 a can.  I often have trouble getting that last oz of paint out of a can of Model Masters, too.

My favorite colors are the Krylon primers, which are dead flat.  Including black primer, oxide red primer (which is very near to Floquil oxide red), grey primer (a medium true grey), and white primer.  I have been using these on all the buildings I am constructing for my layout (with some Model Masters & SCII).

One other Krylon color I use a lot is their Metallics "Dull Aluminum".  Works great for any galvanized surface such as freight car roofs, corrugated siding and roofs on buildings, etc. (with appropriate weathering).

I do weather mainly by airbrush, so use a 10% mix of paint to lacquer thinner with various colors for weathering, such as grimy black (PRR), or Steve Hoxie's favorite, roof brown.

-- John

P.S.  I got back from Cocoa incubating one hell of a cold.  Been basically bed ridden for 5 days now.  Got to go pick up an Rx at WalMart this afternoon.  Anyone else catch anything?


7 Ft Youngstown door, HO scale - Help requested

O Fenton Wells
 

I am kitbashing some 40 ft. DD boxcars in HO scale and need 2 sets of 7 ft Youngstown doors that are 5-6-5 corrugations.  Kadee (Part No. 2235) is right on but the tack board is cast in and I don't feel I can remove it without screwing an otherwise good door casting.  I looked at Southwest Scale and they make it but in a 6 ft wide door.  That may be what I have to do is add a foot to the SW Scale door.

Any other ideas that I may have overlooked from you bashers would be appreciated

Thanks in advance

Fenton Wells


UTLX X-3 tank car

frograbbit602
 

I asked for help regarding UTLX X-3 car in a post to which many of you responded with fine photos and data.   Thank You to all who did.  If you are interested in seeing the finished car I have uploaded a couple of photos which are awaiting approval.  If you want to see the car now and are impatient you can see the finished car in a photo in an album on the "resinfreightcars" website. 

Thank You again for time and effort to help.

Lester Breuer




Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Bruce Smith
 

Clark,

Results, not prejudice, indicate that rattle cans can produce superlative outcomes.  I have by no means ditched the airbrush, but the rattle can is another tool in a wide armamentarium of tools to get the job done.  As I noted, I use them on all of my brass PRR models for a base black (under DGLE) as well as the final coat on all black areas (passenger car roofs, underbodies, trucks, locomotive and tender frames and running gear).  In my hands, the Model Master brand spray bombs are an efficient, cost effective, time saving, high quality approach to getting the job done… and unlike specific model paints, I can buy them at my local USA Hobbies or Hobby Lobby.

Next up is a Tichy ACL 76000 series flat car that will get the spray bomb treatment after grit blasting.

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."



On Jan 17, 2017, at 9:18 AM, cepropst@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:



Are those using rattle cans to paint their fine models the same ones that spend big bucks on the tools needed to build them? If so - Weird!
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Clark Propst
 

Are those using rattle cans to paint their fine models the same ones that spend big bucks on the tools needed to build them? If so - Weird!
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: My Airbrush Cleaning Routine

O Fenton Wells
 

That too was my routine.  One word of caution is that the "O" ring in my brush after a while (year or more) bonded to the nozzle and I had to buy a new nozzle.  Now I remove the "O" ring about every 10 to 20 uses and clean it.  
Just say'in

--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: clear Rust Oleum finishes

Rick Jesionowski
 

Well, since the company that got rid of Floquil also owns Rust Oleum, they are on my list of no buys, I only use Krylon and it is a very good finish in flat, matte and satin.

Rick Jesionowski


Re: Tank car handrail brackets

Tim O'Connor
 


Precision Scale #32110 - set of 36



I know that some firm makes these in brass.  I have misplaced that bit of information.
Who makes them?
Schuyler


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Martin Young
 

My model painting is N Scale but the same ideas are there. I use an Iwata double action brush with the paint cup on top. A few years ago I bought at Sears a compressor with a ten gallon air tank. Filling it is noisy but once filled I turn off the compressor and just use the air in the tank. I have a regulator to control the amount of air I get. Plus the air from the tank is cool. I generally had the most problems when painting directly from a compressor. The air is warm and things happen.

Marty
San Diego, CA

---- "tgregmrtn@aol.com [STMFC]" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In
today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?


Show of hands...

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
STMFC@yahoogroups.com writes:




At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering
powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks
and powders.
He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called
"Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:
http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu
I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry
it.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA




Re: Tank car handrail brackets

Tony Thompson
 

Schuyler Larrabee wrote:

 
I know that some firm makes these in brass.  I have misplaced that bit of information.

 Who makes them?


      Precision Scale. The part number is (or used to be) 32110.


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Tank car handrail brackets

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I know that some firm makes these in brass.  I have misplaced that bit of information.

 

Who makes them?

 

Schuyler

 


Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Well, yes, Bill, it does. Or rather, did. It was McDonald flat lacquer for photo finishing. Unfortunately, I found that about 30+ years ago, and well, a gallon lasts you a L O N G time, even if you give some to your friends.



But I eventually used it up (or it went sideways in the divorce, not sure which) and went to buy some more. And McDonald had by then been bought and folded into another company and didn’t list it anymore. I mean, who needs photo finishing lacquer anymore? I did find a suitable product and will go find the gallon tomorrow (it’s late here) and let you know.



Schuyler







Hello Group,



Schuyler wrote "I came across a flat lacquer used in the professional photographer trade to spray finished photos after they’d been retouched. Of course, now, ‘retouching” happens in the computer but you can still buy that flat a lacquer at a good paint store, the only problem being that it comes only in gallon size, and needs to be let down about 4:1 with lacquer thinner.”



Does this photo finishing flat lacquer have a product name?



Cheers,

Bill Keene

Irvine, CA











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