Date   

Dullcote

golden1014
 

Hi Peter,

John Golden here from Albersbach.  I find that Dullcote is too flat straight out of the jar.  It is also too thick to spray out of the jar and I don't think you will be happy with the results.

Normally I mix an equal amount of Dullcote and Glosscote, then thin the mixture with 50% paint thinner.  In my opinion, laquer thinner is too strong and I would use paint thinner to thin the mixture to the right consistency.

Be careful spraying Dullcote in a humid environment.  I have occasionally had some problems with the Dullcote turning white and ruining the finish and decals.  I think--am not quite sure--that the Dullcote is drying in the air between the airbrush and before hitting the model, and/or the Dullcote picking up moisture in the air ont he way to the model.  In other words the Dullcote is drying or picking up moisture "on the way" to the model.  I have not had that problem with any other brand or type of paint.  In either case, it is best to spray Dullcote in a dry environment.  

After you have applied one or two coats of Dullcote (preferably the mixture I mentioned above) I have a lot of success spraying a final coat of Dullcote mixed with your original paint color for a final seal coat.  In other words, if I am applying a final finish coat on a box car red car, I will first apply one or two coats of Dullcote and then mix in a little bit of the original box car red color into the Dullcote and apply a final finish coat.  Mixing a little of the original color tends to blend the decals and weathering nicely on the finished model, and tone tone some of the whites and blacks.

I hope this helps.  I will be in Stuttgart in a few weeks.  Perhaps I can come to visit?

John Golden
Albersbach 




Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Bill Welch
 

My Bad Steve, I thought there were tables for the r/3/4 IDE, the 10' high post war, and the "banana taper" r/3/4 IDE ends on that site. I knew Ed had developed those tables and thought they were there now.

Bill Welch


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Fred Jansz
 

For the those of you desperately seeking (some, not all) Branchline parts, here's a link I received from an Australian member (thanks David!), giving access to an otherwise meticulously hidden best kept secret the CIA could learn from:
http://shop.atlasrr.com/p-4064-ho-7-youngstown-doors-2.aspx

 

Use the blue arrows (top right) to browse, otherwise you'll be lost forever in this digital labyrint.
best regards, Fred Jansz


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Fred Jansz
 

Todd, yes they are the Mt Vernon built cars of 1947. However, I 'm not in for a sale or trade, I'm so sorry. BTW: Branchline is re-issuing them this spring.
cheers, Fred Jansz


Re: Dullcote

Fred Jansz
 

Message 18001: I use Vallejo either Matt (most of the time), Satin (new car, seldom) or Gloss (decals if matt body color was used) or a mix of these finishes over MM, TC or Vallejo paints. Wonderful invisible finish, dries fast. Cheap small bottles with drop-tips so you can easily count the amount added to your cup. Yes this is for spray-gunslingers only. Sorry. (Harder & Steinbeek Evolution w. 0,2 / 0,4 / 0,6 needles, table top air/paint filter unit, carbon filter spray mask and enough ventilation in a spare room in the house nobody else is allowed to!)
Cheers, Fred


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Fred Jansz
 

Thank you Ed.
However, Q remains: which other roads had 40' lenght, 10'6" height, 4/4 W corner, 7' doors AAR BC's, built after the war but in service July 1950? Received a reply from a member stating:
not many:
DT&S 303049, built 2/48;
GTW 515000-515499, built 48 (marked "unconfirmed" on Hawkins list);
MKT 90080, built 11/49 (test car);
NKP 5000-5249, built 8/46;
NKP 5250-5499, built 9/46;
and the WP cars (I posess 3 of).

Since Ed confirmed a slight flaw in his list, there might be more..?
best regards,
Fred


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Fred Jansz
 

Thanks for the offer Todd, but I model July 1950.
Best regards,
Fred


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Tim O'Connor
 

If you guys have access to magazines... here are some sample references

  40' 1939-1946 10'4"IH to 10'6"IH AAR boxcars                       
    Generally: 10 panel, 5/5 ends, W or S corner posts

    RMJ 3/1997 pp.24-29 Ed Hawkins article, photos SSW,UP,SOU,WABASH,SOO,RI,WP,NP
      Cars shown over time in various paint schemes

    RMJ 8/1996 pp.6-13 Ed Hawkins article, annotated roster of original owners (ladders,
       doors, height, corner posts, etc) & discussion of models, with photos CB&Q,ATSF,
       FW&D,IC,CMO,ERIE,SOO

  40' postwar 10'0"IH AAR boxcars

   RMJ 12/1989 pp.44-48,49-51 prototype and models info for NYC,UP,SP,EJ&E,CNJ,B&O,FNdeM
       with accompanying article on C&BT kitbash

  40' AAR postwar design AAR boxcars

   RMJ 10/1999 pp.43-51 Ed Hawkins' comprehensively covers postwar 10'4" to 10'8" boxcars
      with the 4/4 Improved Dreadnaught (rolling pin) ends -- photos DRGW,ATSF,NP,ERIE,MONON,
      CNW,IC,CB&Q,AA,A&WP

    MM 9/1990 pp.24-27 Todd Sullivan article, photo 1938 prototype ACFX #30000, drawings
      or 1948 standard design car, text, photos ACL,ATSF,DT&I,C&EI,ERIE,CMO,ITC,DL&W,NKP,
      RI,SERX,NJI&I,RDG,MKT

  40' ACF cars with "carbuilder" ends

    RMJ 10/1990 pp.52-58 Ed Hawkins' article, roster of cars built w/ rect panel roofs or
      diagonal panel roofs, detail notes for brakes/running boards/door size, many photos
      B&O,ACL,BAR,C&EI,CRR,ITC,KCS,WIF,RI,ATSF,MKT,BCK,TP&W -- plus paint/decals info

Tim O'


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Ed Hawkins
 

'Schuyler Larrabee' schuyler.larrabee@... [STMFC] wrote:

I don’t think so, Bill. Try your own link. It goes to the table on the Steam Freight Cars Site, just as you said. But if you look at that table, neither ERIE, Buffalo Creek nor PRR are listed, the roads Todd listed. I think Todd may have the right interpretation, the models he has with those road names may represent railroad-built editions of the same cars, whereas Ed’s list is for cars meeting that description that were built by commercial car builders. For example, as Todd mentioned, the ERIE cars were built in the road’s shops, and that probably also applies to the BC cars, as ERIE owned 50% of the BC.
Schuyler, Bill, Fred, Todd, and others interested,
The rosters I compiled nearly 15 years ago and currently on the STMFC web site contain box cars from both car builders and railroads as may be applicable. What may be missing in this discussion is that there are multiple rosters differentiated by the time period in which they were built and often limited to cars with one or more specific types of ends. One example is my roster of new AAR 40' box cars with 4-4 Improved Dreadnaught ends used from 1945 well into the 1950s as Canadian railroads used them longer than American railroads.

As Schuyler pointed out, Erie cars having 4-4 IDN ends (3 series covering 82000-83199) as well as cars for D&TS and Georgia were in my original Excel list between D&RGW and GM&O, but when translated into PDF some of the rows got lopped off. I have no explanation why this occurred other than software glitches that I didn't realize occurred.

Also, despite me creating a roster back then for the 40' AAR-type box cars equipped with Improved Dreadnaught ends used from 1948 to 1954 (the "r+3-4" version with major corrugations in the shape of a rolling pin as they've previously been described), that roster didn't make it to the STMFC web site. Yet another roster not on the STMFC covers the cars I wrote about in RP CYC Volume 29 having Carbuilder ends, similar to the 1948-1954 Improved Dreadnaught ends but lacking all but one intermediate minor corrugation.

I once thought that the PDF format was "the cure" to ensure commonality when reading a file using different platforms, but I've come to learn that not every PDF can be read the same on everyone's computer. This includes two Apple computers I own and continue to use for different purposes. There continues to be glitches found when opening the same file that occurs between PCs and Apple computers and by different versions of the Microsoft Excel software that I used to generate and maintain the lists.

More recently I've spent considerable time updating the rosters and expanding the columns of information to include more dimensional data, trucks, wheels, and even more distinctions in some of the design characteristics. So the task at hand is to replace the existing rosters with updated lists.

I've recently moved all of the box car rosters to my newer Apple iMac computer and have begun to generate PDFs for them in hopes that they can be read more universally on any computer since the software is more current. I will begin to forward the new PDFs to Rob Adams in hopes these new files can be uploaded to the STMFC for anyone to download and use.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: Dullcote

Doug Auburg
 

Please clarify the 50/50 mix of dullcote and glosscoat product? 

  1.  Does that give you a “semigloss” or ???  What circumstance do you use it?
  2. Do you also cut this mixture with 50% lacquer thinner?

Thanks.

Doug Auburg

 

Sat Jan 21, 2017 7:52 am (PST) . Posted by:

"Steve Sandifer" stevesandifer2000

I do mine 50/50 with lacquer thinner. I have three bottles already mixed 50/50 at my spray booth: one of glosscote, one of dullcote, and one of 50% dullcote 50% glosscote.

__________________________________________________

J. Stephen Sandifer



Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

pennsylvania1954
 

Schuyler--The Postwar AAR Box Car List compiled by Ed Hawkins on the Steam Era Freight Cars site only includes cars with 4/4 Improved Dreadnaught Ends, as stated at the top of the table. The Branchline PRR and Erie (1952 built) kits cited by Todd have Rib/3/4 Improved Dreadnaught Ends, and thus have prototypes not included in this list.

It should be noted that Ed's list jumps from D&RGW to GM&O, skipping at least the Erie (1946 built) cars.

Bill--The only post war boxcar tables I see on the site are the PS-1 list and the one you cited. Where did you find others?

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL




Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I don’t think so, Bill. Try your own link. It goes to the table on the Steam Freight Cars Site, just as you said. But if you look at that table, neither ERIE, Buffalo Creek nor PRR are listed, the roads Todd listed. I think Todd may have the right interpretation, the models he has with those road names may represent railroad-built editions of the same cars, whereas Ed’s list is for cars meeting that description that were built by commercial car builders. For example, as Todd mentioned, the ERIE cars were built in the road’s shops, and that probably also applies to the BC cars, as ERIE owned 50% of the BC.



You provided that link in relation to the cars in the subject line.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 10:46 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars





Hold on there, you guys are talking about a different group of cars than I sent the link for. You need to go the the Steam Era Freight Car site and look at the other tables for post war steel cars. Do your homework boys!



Bill Welch





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Bill Welch
 

Hold on there, you guys are talking about a different group of cars than I sent the link for. You need to go the the Steam Era Freight Car site and look at the other tables for post war steel cars. Do your homework boys!

Bill Welch


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Interesting distinction, Todd, thanks for pointing out that potential explanation. Ed’s list should include that disclaimer, if that’s the case.



Schuyler




Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

I wondered about that, too.

It will take some digging, but I am fairly certain that I saw the BCK cars in the Southern Tier of NYS in the 1970s.

I have an Erie-Lackawanna equip book, and Group 7 Sheet 21 shows ERIE 86000-86499 built 8/52-11/52 in the Dunmore Shops with Youngstown 7' doors, IDE ends and diagonal panel roofs, Ajax handbrakes, Barber Stabilized Ride Control trucks, but no mention of running board mfr.

The PRR car is class X43B, and I'm fairly certain that the model is correct.

I think Ed's list may be of cars built by car builders, but not the RRs.

Todd Sullivan


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Todd Sullivan
 

I wondered about that, too. 

It will take some digging, but I am fairly certain that I saw the BCK cars in the Southern Tier of NYS in the 1970s. 

I have an Erie-Lackawanna equip book, and Group 7 Sheet 21 shows ERIE 86000-86499 built 8/52-11/52 in the Dunmore Shops with Youngstown 7' doors, IDE ends and diagonal panel roofs, Ajax handbrakes, Barber Stabilized Ride Control trucks, but no mention of running board mfr.

The PRR car is class X43B, and I'm fairly certain that the model is correct.

I think Ed's list may be of cars built by car builders, but not the RRs.

Todd Sullivan


Re: Dullcote

Steve SANDIFER
 

I have had no problem, but I tend to use it up before a "year or two." When I get a new bottle, I pour half into the empty former bottle, then fill both up with thinner.

 

__________________________________________________

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 12:39 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Dullcote

 

 



Hi Steve,

 

Have you found that the Dullcote mixed with lacquer thinner as you stated is stable over the course of a year ot two?

 

At one time I did this with Floquil paints, and my experience was that the paint would solidify in the bottle in a few weeks time, basically laying waste to an entire bottle of paint.

 

Thanks

 

Claus Schlund

 

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 7:52 AM

Subject: RE: [STMFC] Dullcote

 

I do mine 50/50 with lacquer thinner. I have three bottles already mixed 50/50 at my spray booth: one of glosscote, one of dullcote, and one of 50% dullcote 50% glosscote.

 

__________________________________________________

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2017 2:54 PM
To: stmfc@...
Subject: [STMFC] Dullcote

 

 

I would like to airbrush Dullcote from the glass bottle. How much
thinner should I add?
Peter Aue


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Todd, you are raising a question in my mind, to which I think I know the answer, but I’d like to clarify things:

You’re listing three cars “built” in the ‘50s, which do not appear on Ed’s list, ERIE, BC and PRR. So are those models “foobies,” or is Ed’s list a dated list, i.e., a list of cars of that ID that existed in 1944, or is it an “all time list” of all the roads that had cars matching that description?

I suspect the latter, but I think you can see how I could wonder about this.

Schuyler



Hi Fred,

I have a BCK (blt 1956), ERIE (blt 1952) and a PRR (blt 1951), all unbuilt Branchline kits. Would you be interested in a trade? I model 1952, so I'm hoping the WP cars are the ones built in 1947.

Todd Sullivan.


Re: Rust-oleum Dead Flat Finish

David Sieber
 

________________________________
From: STMFC@... <STMFC@...> on behalf of LEKASING@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 10:41 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Digest Number 10647



We just got back from the local Home Depot with a can. It's under the Rustoleum Universal Advanced Formula line, white and silver can with a trigger type top. Part #302151 Dead Flat Clear. The can label has Clear Durable Top Coat on the center of the label, dead flat towards the bottom.

First try is drying now looks great.

Lee

Lee Singletary
L&NHS
Alabaster, Alabama


-----Original Message-----
From: Jedalberg@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...>
To: notify-dg-STMFC <notify-dg-STMFC@...>; STMFC <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sat, Jan 21, 2017 10:41 am
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Digest Number 10647



Now after all these 18000 messages, about flat or not flat, or totally flat, l went down to the local HD yesterday---about 800 Rust colors, but no 'dead flat", nada, lots of Matte, etc.I was terribly disapointed1
I normally use either dullcote, or slightly more preferentially, the
ModeMaster flat. It all dulls, and truth be told, is there a big difference? Aside from that , just don't like to get the airbrush out---!
Jim Balberg
Paoli, Pa!
-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC <STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>>
To: STMFC <STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>>
Sent: Mon, Jan 16, 2017 9:34 am
Subject: [STMFC] Digest Number 10647

[Yahoo! Groups] <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo;_ylc=X3oDMTJkaGM3c2dzBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA2dmcARzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Steam era freight car discussion group. The time period covered will be from 1900-1960. Group <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/info;_ylc=X3oDMTJkMjd0cWRtBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BHNlYwNoZHIEc2xrA2hwaARzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
15 Messages
Digest #10647
1a
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Garth Groff" ggg9y
1b
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Benjamin Hom" benjaminfrank_hom
1c
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott
1d
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Garth Groff" ggg9y
1e
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott
1f
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott
1g
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Garth Groff" ggg9y
1h
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Tim O'Connor" cf5250
1i
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by riverman_vt
1j
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "Spen Kellogg" spenkellogg
1k
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish by "T.J. Stratton" michigancentralrr
2a
Re: D&H open tops by riverman_vt
2b
Re: D&H open tops by "Craig Zeni" sal3060
3
My Airbrush Cleaning Routine by lnbill
4
Branchline Freight Car Ends by "Nelson Moyer" ku0a
Messages
1a
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147347;_ylc=X3oDMTJzOWJqNjc4BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0NwRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:41 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Garth Groff" ggg9y <mailto:sarahsan@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
Greg,

Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on
the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't
work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,

Garth Groff

On 1/16/17 2:24 AM, tgregmrtn@...<mailto:tgregmrtn@...> [STMFC] wrote:

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment?
In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic
airbrush?
Show of hands...
Greg Martin
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...> writes:

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the
weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for
use with chalks and powders.

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March
called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a
photo link:

_http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu_

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both
carry it.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

Reply to sender <mailto:sarahsan@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147347;_ylc=X3oDMTJzMGRyY25mBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0NwRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147347> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5dG00bDJ2BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0NwRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1b
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147348;_ylc=X3oDMTJzcnNsaWcwBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0OARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:22 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Benjamin Hom" benjaminfrank_hom <mailto:b.hom@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
Greg Martin asked:
"How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In
today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic
airbrush?


Show of hands..."

Actually, I do if the color is available. I hate cleaning the airbrush.

Ben Hom

Reply to sender <mailto:b.hom@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147348;_ylc=X3oDMTJzc2c1ZXNtBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0OARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147348> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5aTdiMHJxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0OARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1c
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147349;_ylc=X3oDMTJzZ2ZjZm5iBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0OQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:30 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott <mailto:shhaycock@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock

----- Original Message -----

Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,

Garth Groff

Reply to sender <mailto:shhaycock@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147349;_ylc=X3oDMTJzcWNpbW44BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0OQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147349> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5M2h0aWJwBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM0OQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1d
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147350;_ylc=X3oDMTJzcGdnZHBiBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:48 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Garth Groff" ggg9y <mailto:sarahsan@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have
disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge
collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5"
styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards
about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint
performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not
happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will
never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?

Yours Aye,

Garth

On 1/16/17 5:30 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@...<mailto:shhaycock@...> [STMFC] wrote:
So Garth,

You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars?

Scott Haycock

----------------------------------------------------------



Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out
on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they
didn't work very well for me.

I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff






Reply to sender <mailto:sarahsan@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147350;_ylc=X3oDMTJzcDM5NGEwBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147350> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5NDJwNWk5BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1e
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147351;_ylc=X3oDMTJzYWhncTFrBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:57 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott <mailto:shhaycock@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>


ms of Use
Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well. That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.

Reply to sender <mailto:shhaycock@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147351;_ylc=X3oDMTJzdm9yN2wzBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147351> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5NHFqaGpxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1f
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147352;_ylc=X3oDMTJzc2c0cHA5BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MgRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:17 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Scott H. Haycock" haycockscott <mailto:shhaycock@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
Garth,

I have a spray booth, but don't want to knock a hole in a wall, etc. So I take it outside to use it. This sounds odd- Why don't I just spray in the open?

The booths fan removes over spray, and protects the model from stray drafts. I live in New Mexico, and even in winter, we'll get days where I can do this outdoors.

As to using spray cans, Google "Replacement spray can nozzles" You can get better nozzles that will produce a finer mist.

Scott Haycock

----- Original Message -----

Scott,

Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth.

Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy?
Yours Aye,

Garth

Reply to sender <mailto:shhaycock@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147352;_ylc=X3oDMTJzNXNwYjRmBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MgRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147352> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5cGRyZTl0BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MgRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1g
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147353;_ylc=X3oDMTJzdWtmbmg2BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MwRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:27 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Garth Groff" ggg9y <mailto:sarahsan@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
Scott,

No, I didn't think you were confrontational. But there's really not much
to say. I just test the spray first to make sure it is shooting right
before aiming it at a model. Then several light coats are blown with the
can aimed just before the model, ending beyond the model on the other
side. I usually let each coat dry a bit before going at the model again.
Standard stuff. Sometimes it works well, other times not so good. Given
the infamous clogging problems with Floquil cans, most of the primers
shoot much better. Of course, weather is a factor. I can't do models
when the temperature is below 55 degrees, and it's not easy when the
wind is blowing.

I also do a lot of brush work on structures and figures with craft store
acrylic paints, including Plaid, Anita's, Americana and Folk Art brands.
These are also good for wash-weathering on freight cars, or just dabbing
with a 1/4" brush on underframes. Right now I'm using these acrylics and
a 0000 brush on some O-scale figures for a future English narrow gauge
layout. Next step, buttons, lips and eyeballs.

I use a matte art acrylic spray as a sealer. Testors Dullcote or Pactra
Flat were best, I can't find them anymore. Plaid Clear Acrylic Sealer
from the art store works fairly well, except in high humidity when it
sometimes dries milky. This explains my interest in the new Rustoleum
product.

Yours Aye,

Garth

On 1/16/17 5:57 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@...<mailto:shhaycock@...> [STMFC] wrote:

ms of Use <https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/><https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/%3E>;
Garth,

Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear
confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in
your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or
are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush
painting is near impossible to do well. That leaves spray cans.

Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least!

Scott Haycock
.


Reply to sender <mailto:sarahsan@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147353;_ylc=X3oDMTJzYmJ2ZGdoBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MwRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147353> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5cmtsYnVoBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1MwRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1h
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147354;_ylc=X3oDMTJzMmZnb283BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:45 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Tim O'Connor" cf5250 <mailto:timboconnor@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>

Rolling stock, never.

But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut wood (out
of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood sealant). I guess
if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-)

And I'll probably use them for large structures like truss bridges.

Tim O'Connor

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world
why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?

Show of hands...

Greg Martin
Reply to sender <mailto:timboconnor@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147354;_ylc=X3oDMTJzY2RsbjdtBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147354> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5bmRwcGZkBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1i
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147356;_ylc=X3oDMTJzZjJlbHJ1BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NgRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:34 am (PST) . Posted by:
riverman_vt <mailto:riverman_vt@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
Hi Greg,

Paasche airbrush user since 1967.....50 years.....and cannot understand anyone using a spray can
to paint with though I admit to it for Testors Dullcote on occasion.


Cordially, Don Valentine
Reply to sender <mailto:riverman_vt@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147356;_ylc=X3oDMTJzaDUzNmpuBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NgRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147356> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5bnFtaGZiBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NgRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1j
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147359;_ylc=X3oDMTJzNHVmaHY3BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1OQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:39 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Spen Kellogg" spenkellogg <mailto:spninetynine@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
On 1/16/2017 4:45 AM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@...<mailto:timboconnor@...> [STMFC] wrote:


Rolling stock, never.

But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut
wood (out
of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood
sealant). I guess
if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-)
Tim,

I had heard that one should avoid Minwax products because they had wax
in them. Have you noticed this, or does the clear coat not have any wax
in it?

Spen Kellogg
Reply to sender <mailto:spninetynine@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply to group <mailto:STMFC@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish> . Reply via Web Post <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/messages/147359;_ylc=X3oDMTJza2RhOXJoBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1OQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDcnBseQRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4?act=reply&messageNum=147359> . All Messages (13) <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147341;_ylc=X3oDMTM5Ym9xMG12BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1OQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdnRwYwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4BHRwY0lkAzE0NzM0MQ--> . Top ^
1k
Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147361;_ylc=X3oDMTJzb3A4ZmthBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM2MQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 6:33 am (PST) . Posted by:
"T.J. Stratton" michigancentralrr <mailto:michigancentralrr@...?subject=Re%3A%20Rust-Oleum%20Dead%20Flat%20Clear%20Finish>
I'm a Badger airbrush fan. I use their line of paints as well as Tru Color and Scalecoat II. I have a paint booth that vents to the outdoors thru a dryer vent in the block windows. While a rattle can sounds slick, I feel that the paint flow could be way be too heavy for painting of H.O. size rolling stock. I have painted a number of buildings with rattle cans with fine results.

Regarding economic airbrush set ups, several years ago I purchased a small compressor and airbrush as a set from Harbor Freight, for about $75 as I recall. That kept me painting when recalled to active duty during Operation Iraqi Freedom. I only used Badger paint thru that rig but still, I have no complaints about the results.

TJ Stratton Maumee, OH. "Modeling the 1950's branch lines of the Michigan Central Railroad in southern Michigan" Mailto:michigancentralrr@...<mailto:michigancentralrr@...?>

________________________________
From: STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...> <STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>> on behalf of tgregmrtn@...<mailto:tgregmrtn@...> [STMFC] <STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2017 2:24 AM
To: STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish

How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush?

Show of hands...

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...> writes:

At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.

He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:

http://tinyurl.com/jnou4lu

I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

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2a
Re: D&H open tops <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147355;_ylc=X3oDMTJzMnZsbTUxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NQRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:25 am (PST) . Posted by:
riverman_vt <mailto:riverman_vt@...?subject=Re%3A%20D%26H%20open%20tops>



---In STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>, <williamdale75@...> wrote :

I forgot to add this earlier for those who may be interested. The D&H also had their fleet of L.C.L air activated cement canister gondolas, originally 15950-15969, and then added 15900-15914. These appeared in the early 1940's and were red. To the best of my knowledge these never wore black. I have a photo of 15911, Oneonta 8-64 still wearing it's red paint. Now, Shortline Products makes a set of decals for the air cement canisters covering the D&H, NYC, DL&W, and LV.

Bill




Thank you Bill. This is all good information to have. I have three of Allan Seebachs (sp?) O&W Car
Shops brass D&H hoppers in wo configurations and am pleased to have them though I usually prefer
injection molded or resin for the freight car fleet. But when something like those hoppers comes along
and is the only game in town short of scratchbuilding there is room for and exception or two. A fair
amount of coal came into Vermont from the D&H branch into Rutland and a small amount over the "Slate
Picker" branch that crisscrossed the VT-NY border. But it also came in via the D&H connections with
both the Rutland and the Boston & Maine so the D&H hoppers could be seen almost anywhere in the
state even if not as common hoppers of the B&O, which seem to be the most frequently seen in our era
judging from thousands of photos seen over the years. Then, too, the Rutland used to transfer coal from
off line hoppers to its own for delivery simply to cut down per diem charges. Other roads ay have done
this too but it seemed to be a standard practice for years on the Rutland.


Can you also suggest a source of black D&H decals for the gray covered hoppers used for cement?
I hated taking cement samples from those cars in the summer of 1967 because when loaded the top of
the load was a good 3 - 4 ft. below the open hatch and we had no scoop to reach it with for sampling.
Thus one had to climb down on top of it. Not fun. Wait until the end of the work day and get a shower
and a change of clothes as quickly as one could. Quite a bit of cement came into Vermont in those
cars before the "Ft. Edward Express" took over the buik of cement delivery into Vermont. Now it all
comes in air dump trailers from three points in Quebec.


Cordially, Don Valentine





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2b
Re: D&H open tops <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147358;_ylc=X3oDMTJzNWJxbXNlBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1OARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:36 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Craig Zeni" sal3060 <mailto:clzeni@...?subject=Re%3A%20D%26H%20open%20tops>

On Jan 16, 2017, at 3:47 AM, STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...> wrote:

1c. Re: D&H open tops
Posted by: williamdale75@...<mailto:williamdale75@...> williamdale75
Date: Sun Jan 15, 2017 3:14 pm ((PST))

Group,

I wanted to add to this topic in regards to paint and decals available. In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611. First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black. Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant. Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier. The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it. For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53. Now for decals, in HO, are as mentioned earlier the Tichy offerings, Westerfield D3309 for the USRA single sheath box cars, C-D-S 591 was for the USRA 2-bay hoppers converted to covered hoppers in the red scheme, nos. 3201-3220. All were in service as of January '53 in grey though. I don't know when they were changed li ke the USRA single sheath box cars also in cement service, and F&C has the early gondola sets. Lastly, years back the O&W car shop imported brass Seley hoppers cars and had a very nice decal set to finish them off. I have two sets packed away, but they are still listed as set #1004 on the Old and Weary Car Shop website.
The O&WCS web site is almost invariably very out of date; I bought his last pair of Genesis F3s several years ago but they're still listed on the web site. Best to call and see what Al has on the shelf. As an O&W modeler I have some of those Seley cars on the shelf along with some of the little brass O&W drop bottom coal gons and his lovely O&W cabooses.

I have a thing for the D&H's big Consolidations...but the O&W's rag tag fleet of second hand hoppers bought in various LOTS just makes it entertaining to model. That, along with the high percentage of bridge traffic on the lower part of the route makes it easy to scratch the freight car itch. After all, when the road never owned a 40' steel or wood box car...scratch away :)

Craig Zeni
Cary NC

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3
My Airbrush Cleaning Routine <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147357;_ylc=X3oDMTJzcGhpYWNlBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM1NwRzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 5:35 am (PST) . Posted by:
lnbill <mailto:fgexbill@...?subject=Re%3A%20My%20Airbrush%20Cleaning%20Routine>
As we have witnessed, painting our models is a very personal choice. With the advice of a plastic modeling magazine editor about 56 years ago, I purchased a Binks "Wren" airbrush and a small compressor with no way to control the PSI or know what it was. However the combo worked well with the paint of the day, in 1964 probably Patra or Testors, but definitely solvent based. I opened my bedroom window and sprayed into a cardboard box. I remember even then struggling to keep the airbrush clean. Some of my problems were from a lack of discipline to clean completely after each paint session.


In 1992 when I began modeling freight cars I decided to go "water based Acrylics" only because they are not toxic, secondarily because of ease of cleanup, but by then I had learned to clean as I go. I have been pretty disciplined with this. BTW I Paint w/Badger's Modelflex paint


The greatest assist in keeping my airbrushes clean is 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. My routine after painting is to initially flush with Distilled water, including back-flushing, and then spraying/flushing w/the Isopropyl. Then I pull the needle out and wipe it w/a paper towel wetted with Isopropyl to remove any paint buildup. That is all the "disassembly" I routinely do. Once the needle is back in place, I spray more Isopropyl and finish with more water. My cleaning station is a brown paper bag with crumpled paper to catch the water and Isopropyl.


Bill Welch

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4
Branchline Freight Car Ends <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/conversations/topics/147360;_ylc=X3oDMTJzYmNtanZpBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzI1NTQ3NTMEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MTY5NzI1BG1zZ0lkAzE0NzM2MARzZWMDZG1zZwRzbGsDdm1zZwRzdGltZQMxNDg0NTc3MjM4>
Mon Jan 16, 2017 6:29 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Nelson Moyer" ku0a <mailto:npmoyer@...?subject=Re%3A%20Branchline%20Freight%20Car%20Ends>
I've searched unsuccessfully for Branchline 10002, R+3/4 improved early Dreadnaught boxcar ends. Is there a source of Branchline ends and doors?

Nelson Moyer
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Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Todd Sullivan
 

I should have added that these are all 40ft cars with 7ft doors.

Todd Sullivan


Re: Branchline 40' Postwar AAR box cars

Todd Sullivan
 

Hi Fred,

I have a BCK (blt 1956), ERIE (blt 1952) and a PRR (blt 1951), all unbuilt Branchline kits.  Would you be interested in a trade?  I model 1952, so I'm hoping the WP cars are the ones built in 1947.

Todd Sullivan.

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