Date   

Re: BLI 6k tank cars

Tim O'Connor
 


It's good they sold out so fast, because that probably guarantees future releases.
Hopefully the next run will have paint schemes for people who model after 1950 ...
... and 1960 ...

Tim O'





Sorry, John.  They are gone and I checked with BLI the run is sold out.

Rich


Re: BLI 6k tank cars

SUVCWORR@...
 

Mea culpa for the reply to the whole list

Rich Orr


-----Original Message-----
From: SUVCWORR@... [STMFC]
To: STMFC
Sent: Sat, Apr 29, 2017 2:39 pm
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: BLI 6k tank cars



Sorry, John.  They are gone and I checked with BLI the run is sold out.

Rich


-----Original Message-----
From: golden1014@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...>
To: STMFC <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 29, 2017 2:34 am
Subject: [STMFC] Re: BLI 6k tank cars



Hi Rich, got any of those cars left?  John Golden




Re: BLI 6k tank cars

SUVCWORR@...
 

Sorry, John.  They are gone and I checked with BLI the run is sold out.

Rich


-----Original Message-----
From: golden1014@... [STMFC]
To: STMFC
Sent: Sat, Apr 29, 2017 2:34 am
Subject: [STMFC] Re: BLI 6k tank cars



Hi Rich, got any of those cars left?  John Golden


Re: Warren Tank Cars In-train in 1954

Tim O'Connor
 


Bill and everyone, FYI, you can see from the URL Bill posted that the photos
are all actually HOSTED on Flickr (owned by Yahoo, now part of Verizon)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/railphotoart/28005007790/

Also, downloading them is trivial if you use Firefox (in spite of the "disabled"
notices from the web sites). Rule #1 on web photos - if you can see them, then you
can download them.

Tim O'Connor







Re: Table Saw

spsalso
 

Randy,

I have not milled resin; I have milled styrene.

I typically use a 1/8" diameter 3x (length--3/8") cutter.  Mostly because it's common and convenient (two handwheel revolutions give a nice overlap when cutting on the vertical).  Of course, I have many other cutters for specific uses.  Right now, I'm using 4 flute.    I don't see much difference when working with either a 4 or a 2; but I'm not doing production work, so I'm not pushing things at all.

Spindle speed--I don't know.  I don't have a tachometer, though I do believe I'll get one, now that I think on it.  I don't much care, as long as things work.  I will say, though, that the cutter is spinning briskly. 

My feeds for styrene tend to be in the .01-.02 range.  When I've pushed that by much, melting starts.  Again, since it's not production work, I just take baby steps.

My general setup for doing something like a typical one-piece house car casting in HO:

Do a rough cut and discard the excess piece, or save for later.
Clamp down on table--piece running parallel with table--use spacers underneath for clearance--add an internal spacer/spreader at the "open" end of the work (either glued in or clamped)--affirm that the piece is adequately square with the table

For a cutter I recommend a 1/4" 10x cutter with stub flutes.  In particular, a Harvey Tool PN 982216-C3. 

How I enter and exit the work is in the horizontal mode.

One could also mount the work vertically on an angle plate.  Then "any old cutter" could be used.  

As I think I mentioned before, the work is time consuming.  But the mill is my favorite machine.  And, as I also said, nothing can go wrong if the worker does his part.



I've shown you mine, Randy.  Let's see yours.  I suspect more folks out there will want to go the saw route, so detailed information on your methods will be even more important to the group.

How do you do this kind of thing with a small table saw:  what blade diameter, what speed, what tooth count?
And, in particular, how do you do the setup so that the cut is both square with the work and consistent across it?  And how do you assure yourself the blade won't grab?  Do you use a sled or a moving table?  And, since your recommended table saw is out of production and may be difficult to find, what saw that is readily available would you recommend?

I use various wood saws, both table and miter, and I would not mind finding something that would match the perfection of the mill but get the job done faster.  I love using the mill, but I must confess that, if I wanted to batch out a dozen cars, I would get THOROUGHLY bored.  So I am looking forward to new information on using saws for things like this.

And, also, thanks in advance for sharing.


Ed

Edward Sutorik


Re: Warren Tank Cars In-train in 1954

richard glueck
 

The steam alone makes this worthwhile viewing, but then ALCO PA's and FA's in a variety of road schemes.  Wow!  What a historical bonanza!

R. Glueck


Warren Tank Cars In-train in 1954

Bill Welch
 


IC & Southern Yard Shot very much in Transition

Bill Welch
 


Re: New Accurail 36-foot box cars

hayden_tom@...
 

Eric,


Thanks for the review. These cars are just on the edge of my era, but looked so neat I bought the NKP one. I cannot figure out how you were able to attach the small styrene strips to the roofwalk ends, or the brake platform. So I used 0.010" x 0.018 brass stock, drilled holes for one end into the body and applied CA from inside. Actually I used 0.015" brass wire I flattened, but if I were doing several I would get the flat stock.


Tom Hayden


Re: Reefers in plaster service

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Randy,

Were you award that David F. Myrick's RAILROADS OF NEVADA AND EASTERN CALIFORNIA (v. 2) has a brief history of the Arden Plaster Company with one photo? It is on page 760 (I said it was brief!). There are other references to the company in accounts of other industrial operations around the area, as U.S. Gypsum purchased other properties nearby, and the locomotives moved around. One of their former locomotives is shown on page [836] near Amboy.

Thanks for sharing some very interesting history.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 4/29/17 12:17 AM, randyhees@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

I made an unexpected research find today.   I have been researching Arden Plaster Company, located in the south end of the Las Vegas Valley.  They operated from 1907 to about 1930.  I was drawn to them because they operated a 3’ gauge haul railroad (using at least 5 locomotives over the life of the company)  to bring the gypsum from the mines to the plant.


Today at the Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas, I was looking at what was thought to be Arden Plaster records, but turned out to be LA&SL (Union Pacific) Arden Station records including daily cash reports, records of shipments with car numbers.  The largest customer by far was the plaster factory.  The surprise was that most of the plaster which was mostly shipped to Southern California was shipped in PFE refrigerator cars.  The shipments headed east were in box cars, either LA&SL or eastern owned.  A photograph of the plant shows only refrigerator cars on the loading track.  I can only assume that plaster is considered a clean cargo, and that using them such service between LA and Las Vegas was keeping them close to the shipping points in Southern California, but keeping them in active revenue service.  We noted that in Oct the reefers disappeared and boxcars were used instead.  On at least one occasion a Santa Fe refrigerator showed up in this service.


Other shipments noted were regular shipments in of fuel oil, both for the narrow gauge locomotives, but also for the plaster factory, as well as food and other supplies for the company store. 


The next largest shipper was the Potosi Zinc and Lead Company, owned by the Mahoney Brothers… They shipped a car or two at a time… but received some interesting loads including a steam tractor.  The Mahoney Brothers are believed to be road contractors from San Francisco, who built street railroads and as a result are credited with construction of at least two orders of cable cars and possible one order of electric street cars, which were supplied under construction contracts, but were likely sub-contracted to others.


Randy Hees



Re: BLI 6k tank cars

golden1014
 

Hi Rich, got any of those cars left?  John Golden


Re: Table Saw

qmp211
 

Ed,

I’m always interested in alternative solutions as are the members of this group from the thorough discussions I see posted.

We’d all be real interested in the techniques you've used to successfully mill styrene and resin and whether those techniques will work for model freight cars. Can you share the type of mill, length, diameter, # of flutes, spindle speed, type of fixtures you have used and how you enter/exit the workpiece are some things I’d really appreciate learning about.

Thanks in advance for sharing.

Randy Danniel


Reefers in plaster service

Randy Hees
 

I made an unexpected research find today.   I have been researching Arden Plaster Company, located in the south end of the Las Vegas Valley.  They operated from 1907 to about 1930.  I was drawn to them because they operated a 3’ gauge haul railroad (using at least 5 locomotives over the life of the company)  to bring the gypsum from the mines to the plant.


Today at the Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas, I was looking at what was thought to be Arden Plaster records, but turned out to be LA&SL (Union Pacific) Arden Station records including daily cash reports, records of shipments with car numbers.  The largest customer by far was the plaster factory.  The surprise was that most of the plaster which was mostly shipped to Southern California was shipped in PFE refrigerator cars.  The shipments headed east were in box cars, either LA&SL or eastern owned.  A photograph of the plant shows only refrigerator cars on the loading track.  I can only assume that plaster is considered a clean cargo, and that using them such service between LA and Las Vegas was keeping them close to the shipping points in Southern California, but keeping them in active revenue service.  We noted that in Oct the reefers disappeared and boxcars were used instead.  On at least one occasion a Santa Fe refrigerator showed up in this service.


Other shipments noted were regular shipments in of fuel oil, both for the narrow gauge locomotives, but also for the plaster factory, as well as food and other supplies for the company store. 


The next largest shipper was the Potosi Zinc and Lead Company, owned by the Mahoney Brothers… They shipped a car or two at a time… but received some interesting loads including a steam tractor.  The Mahoney Brothers are believed to be road contractors from San Francisco, who built street railroads and as a result are credited with construction of at least two orders of cable cars and possible one order of electric street cars, which were supplied under construction contracts, but were likely sub-contracted to others.


Randy Hees



BLI 6k tank car

SUVCWORR@...
 

All of the cars are gone except the Niagara Smelting

Thanks

Rich Orr


Re: Work bench/table height?

Eric Bergh
 

My bench top is 30" with a chair height of 19"... but I have a pullout tray at 27"h using a pair of keyboard suspensions that lock open at 14-1/2' extended. The tray is actually an inexpensive cork bulletin board that I use to lay down drawings/templates with wax paper, for glue ups, etc and for light cutting etc. While things are drying, they can slide back underneath the formica countertop. For close work I do have a small 4" raised stand that I set out on top of the countertop. Here is a poor iPhone pic w/ relative dimensions, I hope:  http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q70/ebergh/untitled%20image.jpg

  

BTW, my modules-in-progress are above the bench - bottom is 50"h, Railtop = 57". I am 6'-4", at least in the morning...

-eb


Re: Work bench/table height?

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I have two benches. One is the usual 30” height, and is where I work on detail things, decaling, weathering, and it’s also where my computer screens are, with a pull-out slide for the keyboard. I began developing carpal tunnel issues and the pull-out slide ended that pretty quickly. Your forearms should be level from your elbow to the keyboard when typing.



The other bench is 38” high, and has a Panavise mounted on it. This is where I do more heavy work, sawing and carving and filing things. I also have a miniature drill press, and when I’m using that, I set it up on that bench. Dirty work, with dust or filings and so on I do there, because the plastic laminate top abets cleanup considerably.



You warded off issues of lighting, but I’m going to offer this anyway: I have Luxo lamps, the adjustable arm incandescent (changing to LED) lamps. I have three on the low desk, two on the tall desk, all with 100W (or equivalent) lamps in them. I move them all around all the time, to get a LOT of light on whatever I’m working on.



Oh, yeah, I also have another desk, normal 30” height, which is where I do oversize projects, like the 6’ long trolley track loop I built for my model railroad club. But that’s generally covered with “stuff.” Fancy term would be my staging area.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2017 12:17 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Work bench/table height?





Hi,



I'm going to move/rebuild/redefine my workbench. Is there some kind of 'standard'

for how high a workbench surface should be relative to either the height of the chair

you are sitting on or the height of your elbow?

Although this topic is off topic - I do intend to use the new workspace to build

steam era freight cars ... is that good enough for the moderator? (Yes, that's a

real question and I will "take it somewhere else" if the moderator says "not

here, please".



===> Although some of you will be tempted to discuss "related topics" to

my question such as lighting, size, tools, storage methods, etc.

I am not really interested in answers of that type and politely request

that you not reply to this post with those answers (start your own

off topic, please).

- Jim B.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Work bench/table height?

Jared Harper
 

54" eh?  I am 5' 4 1/2" and my layout is 57," about my eye height.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA



From: 'Douglas Harding' doug.harding@... [STMFC]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2017 6:07 PM
To: STMFC@...
Reply To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Work bench/table height?

 


 

Just for reference, my layout is designed for track at 54”. While many find it high, I think it just right. Remember I stand 6’ 2”, so my eye level is 68”

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 



Re: Work bench/table height?

mark_landgraf
 

For a stand up bench, you start with your bench vise. The top of the vise should be at elbow height. The reason being that when you use a hand file, it's easier to file a flat surface because of the swing action of your elbow keeps the level. When the vise is higher or lower you have a greater likelihood of filing up hill or down hill. 

The same logic should apply to a sit down bench, although an adjustable height chair helps resolve this problem. 

Mark Landgraf

From: 'Douglas Harding' doug.harding@... [STMFC]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2017 6:07 PM
To: STMFC@...
Reply To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Work bench/table height?

 

Jim my workbench top surface is at 31”. I have an adjustable office chair that lowers, which I lower when doing close up work. I also stand 6’2” so prefer my chair at max height. A portable box one can place on the workbench to bring your work surface closer when needed. Now that I use bifocals I have done that sometimes when doing extreme close up work with the opti-visors. A box about 4-6” high works well for me.

 

At the moment I am typing this in a standing position. Have the laptop on a box that is 48” next the work bench. It is working really well.

 

Just for reference, my layout is designed for track at 54”. While many find it high, I think it just right. Remember I stand 6’ 2”, so my eye level is 68”

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 



Re: the Broadway Limited tanks

Dave Parker
 

Bruce:

Sorry for the tardy response, but I just received my Brown Co car today.  It is the only one I purchased, and (I think) the earliest one constructed -- 1929-30.  Based on the SCF builder's photo, I'd say the trucks are pretty close.  The wheelsets need replacing (with semiscale), but the frames aren't bad, albeit with brakes cast into the side-frame.

To my eye a better match would be the Tahoe 215 (40-ton) trucks, and I may well upgrade.  But I would not say it's essential.

YMMV with the later-built cars I suspect.

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA


Re: Table Saw

Dennis Storzek
 




---In STMFC@..., <milepost206@...> wrote :

I agree to the concept of one cut. The problem is locating the part in 3D geometry relative to the blade to make the cut.

Randy Danniel
=======================

Well, as long as you are using a blade with no set, or big carbide tips with parallel sides, you can use the technique I used to use for splitting wooded card boxes, etc, in a previous career: Shut the blade down, flip the box / boxcar, fit the blade into the end of the kerf just cut, start the saw, and cut the next side. This doesn't work well if your saw has bad bearings or the blade wobbles as it comes up to speed.

You have to plan your cuts so there is always a kerf on the leading edge of the work.

Dennis Storzek

38641 - 38660 of 187823