Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
Nelson Moyer
That’s a fairly tight range. I’m not sure when the M&StL went all diesel, but I know they were early adopters. I’ve thought about running 1963 sessions, which is ten years past my 1953 core date. That would allow me to run GP-9, SD-9, SD-24, GP-20, and GP-30 consists (sometimes with one of each up to four motors as the Q was famous for consist variety), plus air slide and other covered hoppers, piggybacks, early auto racks, and a few other cars outside my core date. Chinese red started 1959, and the car lettering was modernized, so that would really alter the look and feel of the railroad. That would also force me to investigate 1960 era practice, which would stretch me past my 1953 cutoff. Of course, that’s an expensive dream.
Nelson Moyer
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 10:31 PM To: STMFC@... Subject: [STMFC] Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
What is your modeling date now Clark?
Depends on the engine I’m using steam 48 diesel 49-50. Clark Propst
|
|
Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
Bill Welch
I make them using .012 wire. First I cut short sections of wire and then put one end in a flame. I do extras as I do this. Then I grip the wire sections with pliers w/just a little nub of the flamed end exposed and pound it w/a small hammer to flatten it just enough that it will not go through a .012 hole. These are rarely pretty but they work well enough. I usually have two models going that are very similar, two Branchline for example, so the steps I do are for two cars. My friend Dr. Frank Peacock, DDS calls this "like things at like times." In this case of sill steps this means making 16 rivets plus extras at one time. With Yarmouth's X29 sill steps it means doubling that number since they can take four rivets per step.
Thank you for asking John. Bill Welch
|
|
Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
Robert Heninger
Clark,
The Monon PS-1 boxcar that Bill is modeling was built in 1947, very appropriate for your layout's era. Regards, Bob Heninger Minot, ND
|
|
Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
Clark Propst
What is your modeling
date now Clark? Bill Welch Depends on the engine I’m using steam 48
diesel 49-50.
Clark
Propst
Mason City Iowa
|
|
Re: USRA steel side box car rebuild
Ted Culotta
I realized that I replied directly to Larry. Here is my reply: It was in the second profile on the L&N ARA box cars. I discovered that as built, most of the L&N cars had a different version of the Murphy XLa roof than most of us typically think of when we hear Murphy roof. We usually associate with the one used on USRA design box cars, but the one on most of the L&N ARA cars had smaller, rounded roof seam caps. That publication and the other associated ones can be accessed via this link. Cheers, Ted Ted Culotta Speedwitch Media
|
|
Re: USRA steel side box car rebuild
Bill Welch
Larry, I am not Ted but I am pretty sure he was referring to his then new "Profiles" and the L&N's adaptations to reuse "K" Brake components to configure an AB Brake system: http://speedwitchmedia.com/product/prototype-railroad-profile-no-1-louisville-nashville-ara-single-sheathed-box-cars/
Bill Welch
|
|
Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
John F. Cizmar
Bill, Where do you get the brass wire rivets you use for stirrups and RD end supports? John Cizmar NKPTHS 2227
From: "fgexbill@... [STMFC]" To: STMFC@... Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 3:43 PM Subject: [STMFC] Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1 Here is
a link to some photos of Monon #37, a PS-1 I am now finally decaling: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xmiyor2g2ilzvnp/AADfa4FdreSMOshB-PPQ7gTda?dl=0 Until the 2017 Collinsville RPM I did not realize how
special the model of Monon #37 I have been working on on-and-off for two years
is but in the first few minutes of Ed Hawkins presentation about the Pullman
PS-1 I learned that despite such parts as Standard Railway Equipment’s Murphy
paneled roof and Improved Dreadnaught Ends I was actually modeling a PS-1. When
I started the model I was interested because it offered me the opportunity to
us the pair of 7-panel Superior door tooled by Dan Hall of Southwest Scale Productions
(http://southwestscale.com/main.sc)
that I had purchased from Andy Carlson. It also meant I could finally use the
some of the Monon decals I had purchased from Mont Switzer in about 1995.
Having been caught “asleep at the wheel” by Branchline selling their fine kits
to Atlas, at the time I only had a stash of undec. C&BT Car Shop kits so I
started removing rivets and panel lines and then once I had perfectly smooth
side began to add the needed details. In the intervening months I sculpted the tabs along the
sill; added rivets—both harvested and Archer decals; weld lines w/Archers’
Aircraft Panels Lines; and scratch built ladders, Placard Boards and Route Card
Holders; trust plates; and gussets under the door tracks. Since Collinsville I
have decided to build a Pullman underframe instead of the AAR u/f I was ready
to install but I wanted to go ahead and paint and decal it. I began by spraying
the roof with a mixture of Tamiya’s Sky Grey and Aluminum in an attempt to
re-create something that looks Galvanized. Then I brushed on “Bob Dively Model
Aircraft Liquid Masking Film” in a random way, and then painted the roof with
Polyscale “Tarnished Black. After a couple of days I peeled the liquid making
away and masked the roof with Tamiya’s Masking tape and painted the body with
Badger’s #16-15 Maroon Tuscan Oxide Red, then added a coat of Microscale’s
Clear Gloss. All of this was done with my trusty Badger 155 Anthem siphon feed
airbrush w/a .75 mm needle/tip combo at 20 PSI. Despite being at least 22 years old, Mont’s decals are
going on with no problems using Microscale’s Blue and Red label decal setting
solutions. His set does not have a Pullman Builder’s stencil so I used one from
a Speedwitch WofA set. If you look closely you will see this is for their
Bessemer, Alabama plant, which is probably wrong for this car. Also missing is
the stenciling for the door: “Lift Handle — To Open Or Close Door.” Not finding
this phrase in any of the decal sets I have I bit the bullet and decided to
piece this together from Microscale’s Gothic Data Sheet, ugh it has been maybe
18 years since I had done this. First I used Microscale Decal film on the very
small data as my set is pretty old and I did not want this small type to
crumble and then made coffee. The night before I had confirmed all of the
letters were there and which words would require piecing together—“Lift Handle
— To.” I started in the middle on either side of said handle and somehow
managed to keep everything straight. Once the decaling is finished I will give them a
protective coat and use oils to weather the roof. I have a spare roof set aside
already painted and peeled to experiment on before moving onto the model. The
Yarmouth running board will be attached having been painted separately. I am
using brass wire rivets to secure the RB’s end supports so the Kadee Ajax brake
wheel will be installed after the RB. I will probably use PanPastels for the
sides and ends. Once this is done I will add new Reweigh and Lube stenciling. In retrospect this has been a labor of love. I worked on
it in spurts since it involved some thinking and problem solving. In some ways
the C&BT body was not the best choice although the only choice I had at the
time. But as I look at the result I am happy. I have one bad weld line per side
and the tabs on the side you see are better than those on the other side.
Question, comments? Bill Welch
|
|
Re: USRA steel side box car rebuild
Larry Sexton
Ted,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
In the October 2015 article (email) on the upcoming Milwaukee RR ribside boxcars you stated "Well, I had completely finished no. 1 before discovering a rather amazing error in the model I had built. It turned out to be a good error as it will let me highlight an interesting modeling obstacle as well as provide some insightful prototype information about the L&N’s ARA single sheathed box cars that to date has been missed by most (if not all ) of us. I’ll have this one completed and posted soon. Stay tuned!" Where is that discussion published? I'd like to acquire a copy. Larry Sexton ---- "Ted Culotta speedwitchmedia@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:
From the shameless plug category, here is the radial roof rebuild, along
|
|
Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
Bill Welch
What is your modeling date now Clark?
Bill Welch
|
|
Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
Clark Propst
Thanks for sharing the photos Bill. The last couple of years I’ve been
talking to Mont at both StL and N’ville, gathering info and decals. I’ve always
thought they were PS1 didn’t realize until recently they were make to ‘standard’
components. Glad I’ve procrastinated, I see the built date on our model is well
beyond the time I model now.
Clark
Propst Mason City Iowa
|
|
Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
gtws00
Bill, this is really turning out nice. The Trust Plate is a nice touch. Ladders look great. Roof looks just right.
Great Job George Toman
|
|
Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1
Bill Welch
Here is
a link to some photos of Monon #37, a PS-1 I am now finally decaling: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xmiyor2g2ilzvnp/AADfa4FdreSMOshB-PPQ7gTda?dl=0
Until the 2017 Collinsville RPM I did not realize how special the model of Monon #37 I have been working on on-and-off for two years is but in the first few minutes of Ed Hawkins presentation about the Pullman PS-1 I learned that despite such parts as Standard Railway Equipment’s Murphy paneled roof and Improved Dreadnaught Ends I was actually modeling a PS-1. When I started the model I was interested because it offered me the opportunity to us the pair of 7-panel Superior door tooled by Dan Hall of Southwest Scale Productions (http://southwestscale.com/main.sc) that I had purchased from Andy Carlson. It also meant I could finally use the some of the Monon decals I had purchased from Mont Switzer in about 1995. Having been caught “asleep at the wheel” by Branchline selling their fine kits to Atlas, at the time I only had a stash of undec. C&BT Car Shop kits so I started removing rivets and panel lines and then once I had perfectly smooth side began to add the needed details. In the intervening months I sculpted the tabs along the sill; added rivets—both harvested and Archer decals; weld lines w/Archers’ Aircraft Panels Lines; and scratch built ladders, Placard Boards and Route Card Holders; trust plates; and gussets under the door tracks. Since Collinsville I have decided to build a Pullman underframe instead of the AAR u/f I was ready to install but I wanted to go ahead and paint and decal it. I began by spraying the roof with a mixture of Tamiya’s Sky Grey and Aluminum in an attempt to re-create something that looks Galvanized. Then I brushed on “Bob Dively Model Aircraft Liquid Masking Film” in a random way, and then painted the roof with Polyscale “Tarnished Black. After a couple of days I peeled the liquid making away and masked the roof with Tamiya’s Masking tape and painted the body with Badger’s #16-15 Maroon Tuscan Oxide Red, then added a coat of Microscale’s Clear Gloss. All of this was done with my trusty Badger 155 Anthem siphon feed airbrush w/a .75 mm needle/tip combo at 20 PSI. Despite being at least 22 years old, Mont’s decals are going on with no problems using Microscale’s Blue and Red label decal setting solutions. His set does not have a Pullman Builder’s stencil so I used one from a Speedwitch WofA set. If you look closely you will see this is for their Bessemer, Alabama plant, which is probably wrong for this car. Also missing is the stenciling for the door: “Lift Handle — To Open Or Close Door.” Not finding this phrase in any of the decal sets I have I bit the bullet and decided to piece this together from Microscale’s Gothic Data Sheet, ugh it has been maybe 18 years since I had done this. First I used Microscale Decal film on the very small data as my set is pretty old and I did not want this small type to crumble and then made coffee. The night before I had confirmed all of the letters were there and which words would require piecing together—“Lift Handle — To.” I started in the middle on either side of said handle and somehow managed to keep everything straight. Once the decaling is finished I will give them a protective coat and use oils to weather the roof. I have a spare roof set aside already painted and peeled to experiment on before moving onto the model. The Yarmouth running board will be attached having been painted separately. I am using brass wire rivets to secure the RB’s end supports so the Kadee Ajax brake wheel will be installed after the RB. I will probably use PanPastels for the sides and ends. Once this is done I will add new Reweigh and Lube stenciling.
In retrospect this has been a labor of love. I worked on it in spurts since it involved some thinking and problem solving. In some ways the C&BT body was not the best choice although the only choice I had at the time. But as I look at the result I am happy. I have one bad weld line per side and the tabs on the side you see are better than those on the other side. Question, comments? Bill Welch
|
|
Re: General Electric Tank Car
brianleppert@att.net
I need to make a retraction of my Type 25 statement. Ed Hawkins has informed me that the General Electric tank car is actually an AC&F type 26. Although there does not seem to be much difference between the two designs, I do notice the Type 26 does not have the "heavy steel diaphragms extending from the center sills at each end of the car".
There were only 2 orders for Type 25 cars for the US/Canadian market, totaling 15 tank cars. The Type 26 design received 22 orders for 546 cars. In comparison, there were over 1800 Type 27 tanks cars built, as mentioned in Railway Prototype Cyclopedia, vol. 2. There was also an AC&F Type 25A design. Not many of these were built. Another photo of a Type 26 tank car, SCAX 625, appeared on page 70 in Kaminski's American Car & Foundry, 1899-1999 book. My thanks to Ed Hawkins, who provided an overwhelming amount information to me. Brian Leppert Carson City, NV
|
|
Re: General Electric Tank Car
Ian Cranstone
Brian, much appreciated. I was one of those members unfamiliar with the Type 25 underframe. I think Canadian Car & Foundry built examples as well, likely under licence.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 2017-07-23, at 3:39 PM, brianleppert@... [STMFC] wrote:
|
|
Re: Looking for "Lift Here—T o Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO
hubert mask
Milwaukee Road combo door 40'. 88-232
Cotton Belt 40'. Box car. 87-322
Hubert Mask
On Jul 24, 2017, at 5:40 PM, abrown@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Looking for "Lift Here—T o Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO
al_brown03
I must confess that I don't know how to search the Mask Island website by SKU #. I see that each product *has* such a number, when I call it up; but finding a particular number has me buffaloed. -- baffled, hornswoggled, etc. -- -- Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.
|
|
Re: Looking for "Lift Here—To Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO
Bill Welch
That would be great Hubert but just tried searching by those numbers on your site and this function did not ID any sets w/either number, so they are not helpful. Maybe you could tell me which sets they are and I can try to find them. Notice you are still NOT putting a link to your website in your messages when you refer to your products.
Bill Welch
|
|
Re: Looking for "Lift Here—To Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO
hubert mask
I have 2 decals set 87-232 and 87-322 that have that data on the cars.
Hubert Mask
Mask Island Decals Inc.
On Jul 24, 2017, at 2:41 PM, Hubert Mask
maskisland@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: weathering decals
Tony
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Excellent! I've wondered about those decals - I agree they are mostly for post-1960 modelers but clearly they work very well. Tim O'Connor
Something that is used by many modern-era freight car modelers, but seems unknown to most steam-era modelers, and of which I was only vaguely aware until Collinsville last month, is decal weathering for all kinds of streaking, from gray and black to rust. I bought a set of Weathering Solutions decals at Collinsville and have tried them out, leading to a blog post about the results. If you're interested, here is a link to that post:
|
|
weathering decals
Tony Thompson
Something that is used by many modern-era freight car modelers, but seems unknown to most steam-era modelers, and of which I was only vaguely aware until Collinsville last month, is decal weathering for all kinds of streaking, from gray and black to rust. I bought a set of Weathering Solutions decals at Collinsville and have tried them out, leading to a blog post about the results. If you're interested, here is a link to that post:
http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2017/07/using-weathering-solutions-decals.html Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@... Publishers of books on railroad history
|
|