Date   

Re: USRA steel side box car rebuild

Ted Culotta
 

I realized that I replied directly to Larry. Here is my reply:


It was in the second profile on the L&N ARA box cars. I discovered that as built, most of the L&N cars had a different version of the Murphy XLa roof than most of us typically think of when we hear Murphy roof. We usually associate with the one used on USRA design box cars, but the one on most of the L&N ARA cars had smaller, rounded roof seam caps. That publication and the other associated ones can be accessed via this link.

Cheers,
Ted


Re: USRA steel side box car rebuild

Bill Welch
 

Larry, I am not Ted  but I am pretty sure he was referring to his then new "Profiles" and the L&N's adaptations to reuse "K" Brake components to configure an AB Brake system: http://speedwitchmedia.com/product/prototype-railroad-profile-no-1-louisville-nashville-ara-single-sheathed-box-cars/

Bill Welch


Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1

John F. Cizmar
 

Bill,
Where do you get the brass wire rivets you use for stirrups and RD end supports?
John Cizmar NKPTHS 2227



From: "fgexbill@... [STMFC]"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 3:43 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1

 
Here is a link to some photos of Monon #37, a PS-1 I am now finally decaling: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xmiyor2g2ilzvnp/AADfa4FdreSMOshB-PPQ7gTda?dl=0
 
Until the 2017 Collinsville RPM I did not realize how special the model of Monon #37 I have been working on on-and-off for two years is but in the first few minutes of Ed Hawkins presentation about the Pullman PS-1 I learned that despite such parts as Standard Railway Equipment’s Murphy paneled roof and Improved Dreadnaught Ends I was actually modeling a PS-1. When I started the model I was interested because it offered me the opportunity to us the pair of 7-panel Superior door tooled by Dan Hall of Southwest Scale Productions (http://southwestscale.com/main.sc) that I had purchased from Andy Carlson. It also meant I could finally use the some of the Monon decals I had purchased from Mont Switzer in about 1995. Having been caught “asleep at the wheel” by Branchline selling their fine kits to Atlas, at the time I only had a stash of undec. C&BT Car Shop kits so I started removing rivets and panel lines and then once I had perfectly smooth side began to add the needed details.
In the intervening months I sculpted the tabs along the sill; added rivets—both harvested and Archer decals; weld lines w/Archers’ Aircraft Panels Lines; and scratch built ladders, Placard Boards and Route Card Holders; trust plates; and gussets under the door tracks. Since Collinsville I have decided to build a Pullman underframe instead of the AAR u/f I was ready to install but I wanted to go ahead and paint and decal it. I began by spraying the roof with a mixture of Tamiya’s Sky Grey and Aluminum in an attempt to re-create something that looks Galvanized. Then I brushed on “Bob Dively Model Aircraft Liquid Masking Film” in a random way, and then painted the roof with Polyscale “Tarnished Black. After a couple of days I peeled the liquid making away and masked the roof with Tamiya’s Masking tape and painted the body with Badger’s #16-15 Maroon Tuscan Oxide Red, then added a coat of Microscale’s Clear Gloss. All of this was done with my trusty Badger 155 Anthem siphon feed airbrush w/a .75 mm needle/tip combo at 20 PSI.
Despite being at least 22 years old, Mont’s decals are going on with no problems using Microscale’s Blue and Red label decal setting solutions. His set does not have a Pullman Builder’s stencil so I used one from a Speedwitch WofA set. If you look closely you will see this is for their Bessemer, Alabama plant, which is probably wrong for this car. Also missing is the stenciling for the door: “Lift Handle — To Open Or Close Door.” Not finding this phrase in any of the decal sets I have I bit the bullet and decided to piece this together from Microscale’s Gothic Data Sheet, ugh it has been maybe 18 years since I had done this. First I used Microscale Decal film on the very small data as my set is pretty old and I did not want this small type to crumble and then made coffee. The night before I had confirmed all of the letters were there and which words would require piecing together—“Lift Handle — To.” I started in the middle on either side of said handle and somehow managed to keep everything straight.
Once the decaling is finished I will give them a protective coat and use oils to weather the roof. I have a spare roof set aside already painted and peeled to experiment on before moving onto the model. The Yarmouth running board will be attached having been painted separately. I am using brass wire rivets to secure the RB’s end supports so the Kadee Ajax brake wheel will be installed after the RB. I will probably use PanPastels for the sides and ends. Once this is done I will add new Reweigh and Lube stenciling.
In retrospect this has been a labor of love. I worked on it in spurts since it involved some thinking and problem solving. In some ways the C&BT body was not the best choice although the only choice I had at the time. But as I look at the result I am happy. I have one bad weld line per side and the tabs on the side you see are better than those on the other side. Question, comments?

Bill Welch




Re: USRA steel side box car rebuild

Larry Sexton
 

Ted,

In the October 2015 article (email) on the upcoming Milwaukee RR ribside boxcars you stated "Well, I had completely finished no. 1 before discovering a rather amazing error in the model I had built. It turned out to be a good error as it will let me highlight an interesting modeling obstacle as well as provide some insightful prototype information about the L&N’s ARA single sheathed box cars that to date has been missed by most (if not all ) of us. I’ll have this one completed and posted soon. Stay tuned!"

Where is that discussion published? I'd like to acquire a copy.

Larry Sexton
---- "Ted Culotta speedwitchmedia@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...> wrote:

From the shameless plug category, here is the radial roof rebuild, along
with the correct Youngstown door with early Camel Roller Lift fixtures (not
offered by Tichy):

Speedwitch Georgia USRA rebuild kit
<http://speedwitchmedia.com/product/k127-georgia-railroad-rebuilt-usra-50-ton-box-car/>

Ted Culotta
Speedwitch Media
speedwitchmedia@... - www.speedwitchmedia.com
Blog: http://prototopics.blogspot.com


Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1

Bill Welch
 

What is your modeling date now Clark?

Bill Welch


Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1

Clark Propst
 

Thanks for sharing the photos Bill. The last couple of years I’ve been talking to Mont at both StL and N’ville, gathering info and decals. I’ve always thought they were PS1 didn’t realize until recently they were make to ‘standard’ components. Glad I’ve procrastinated, I see the built date on our model is well beyond the time I model now.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1

gtws00
 

Bill, this is really turning out nice. The Trust Plate is a nice touch. Ladders look great. Roof looks just right.

Great Job

George Toman


Modeling Monon #37: Surprise it is a PS-1

Bill Welch
 

Here is a link to some photos of Monon #37, a PS-1 I am now finally decaling: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xmiyor2g2ilzvnp/AADfa4FdreSMOshB-PPQ7gTda?dl=0

 

Until the 2017 Collinsville RPM I did not realize how special the model of Monon #37 I have been working on on-and-off for two years is but in the first few minutes of Ed Hawkins presentation about the Pullman PS-1 I learned that despite such parts as Standard Railway Equipment’s Murphy paneled roof and Improved Dreadnaught Ends I was actually modeling a PS-1. When I started the model I was interested because it offered me the opportunity to us the pair of 7-panel Superior door tooled by Dan Hall of Southwest Scale Productions (http://southwestscale.com/main.sc) that I had purchased from Andy Carlson. It also meant I could finally use the some of the Monon decals I had purchased from Mont Switzer in about 1995. Having been caught “asleep at the wheel” by Branchline selling their fine kits to Atlas, at the time I only had a stash of undec. C&BT Car Shop kits so I started removing rivets and panel lines and then once I had perfectly smooth side began to add the needed details.

In the intervening months I sculpted the tabs along the sill; added rivets—both harvested and Archer decals; weld lines w/Archers’ Aircraft Panels Lines; and scratch built ladders, Placard Boards and Route Card Holders; trust plates; and gussets under the door tracks. Since Collinsville I have decided to build a Pullman underframe instead of the AAR u/f I was ready to install but I wanted to go ahead and paint and decal it. I began by spraying the roof with a mixture of Tamiya’s Sky Grey and Aluminum in an attempt to re-create something that looks Galvanized. Then I brushed on “Bob Dively Model Aircraft Liquid Masking Film” in a random way, and then painted the roof with Polyscale “Tarnished Black. After a couple of days I peeled the liquid making away and masked the roof with Tamiya’s Masking tape and painted the body with Badger’s #16-15 Maroon Tuscan Oxide Red, then added a coat of Microscale’s Clear Gloss. All of this was done with my trusty Badger 155 Anthem siphon feed airbrush w/a .75 mm needle/tip combo at 20 PSI.

Despite being at least 22 years old, Mont’s decals are going on with no problems using Microscale’s Blue and Red label decal setting solutions. His set does not have a Pullman Builder’s stencil so I used one from a Speedwitch WofA set. If you look closely you will see this is for their Bessemer, Alabama plant, which is probably wrong for this car. Also missing is the stenciling for the door: “Lift Handle — To Open Or Close Door.” Not finding this phrase in any of the decal sets I have I bit the bullet and decided to piece this together from Microscale’s Gothic Data Sheet, ugh it has been maybe 18 years since I had done this. First I used Microscale Decal film on the very small data as my set is pretty old and I did not want this small type to crumble and then made coffee. The night before I had confirmed all of the letters were there and which words would require piecing together—“Lift Handle — To.” I started in the middle on either side of said handle and somehow managed to keep everything straight.

Once the decaling is finished I will give them a protective coat and use oils to weather the roof. I have a spare roof set aside already painted and peeled to experiment on before moving onto the model. The Yarmouth running board will be attached having been painted separately. I am using brass wire rivets to secure the RB’s end supports so the Kadee Ajax brake wheel will be installed after the RB. I will probably use PanPastels for the sides and ends. Once this is done I will add new Reweigh and Lube stenciling.

In retrospect this has been a labor of love. I worked on it in spurts since it involved some thinking and problem solving. In some ways the C&BT body was not the best choice although the only choice I had at the time. But as I look at the result I am happy. I have one bad weld line per side and the tabs on the side you see are better than those on the other side. Question, comments?


Bill Welch



Re: General Electric Tank Car

brianleppert@att.net
 

I need to make a retraction of my Type 25 statement.  Ed Hawkins has informed me that the General Electric tank car is actually an AC&F type 26.  Although there does not seem to be much difference between the two designs, I do notice the Type 26 does not have the "heavy steel diaphragms extending from the center sills at each end of the car".

There were only 2 orders for Type 25 cars for the US/Canadian market, totaling 15 tank cars.  The Type 26 design received 22 orders for 546 cars.  In comparison, there were over 1800 Type 27 tanks cars built, as mentioned in Railway Prototype Cyclopedia, vol. 2.

There was also an AC&F Type 25A design.  Not many of these were built.

Another photo of a Type 26 tank car, SCAX 625, appeared on page 70 in Kaminski's American Car & Foundry, 1899-1999 book.

My thanks to Ed Hawkins, who provided an overwhelming amount information to me.

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV 


Re: General Electric Tank Car

Ian Cranstone
 

Brian, much appreciated.  I was one of those members unfamiliar with the Type 25 underframe.  I think Canadian Car & Foundry built examples as well, likely under licence.

Ian Cranstone

Osgoode, Ontario, Canada

lamontc@...

http://freightcars.nakina.net


On 2017-07-23, at 3:39 PM, brianleppert@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

Earlier this month there was a brief discussion on a General Electric tank car.  It seemed some members were not familiar with the AC&F Type 25 underframe.  I have added to our Files section a page from an AC&F catalog showing their Type 25 tank car at

   https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/STMFC/files/AC%26F%20Type%2025.jpg

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV


Re: Looking for "Lift Here—T o Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO

hubert mask
 

Milwaukee Road combo door 40'.  88-232

Cotton Belt 40'.  Box car. 87-322

Hubert Mask 


On Jul 24, 2017, at 5:40 PM, abrown@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

I must confess that I don't know how to search the Mask Island website by SKU #. I see that each product *has* such a number, when I call it up; but finding a particular number has me buffaloed.

-- baffled, hornswoggled, etc. --

-- Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


Re: Looking for "Lift Here—T o Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO

al_brown03
 

I must confess that I don't know how to search the Mask Island website by SKU #. I see that each product *has* such a number, when I call it up; but finding a particular number has me buffaloed.

-- baffled, hornswoggled, etc. --

-- Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


Re: Looking for "Lift Here—To Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO

Bill Welch
 

That would be great Hubert but just tried searching by those numbers on your site and this function did not ID any sets w/either number, so they are not helpful. Maybe you could tell me which sets they are and I can try to find them. Notice you are still NOT putting a link to your website in your messages when you refer to your products.

Bill Welch


Re: Looking for "Lift Here—To Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO

hubert mask
 

I have 2 decals set 87-232 and 87-322 that have that data on the cars.  

Hubert Mask
Mask Island Decals Inc.


On Jul 24, 2017, at 2:41 PM, Hubert Mask maskisland@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Tim.  Is that for the 6 foot door with the vertical lift bar in the middle of the door at the bottom?   If so I have several 40' Decals with that.  I believe

Maybe not the road name however. 

Hubert Mask
Mask Island Decals Inc


On Jul 24, 2017, at 1:42 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 



Bill - can you post a photo of that "Lift Here" lettering ? Without
a picture it's kinda hard to tell you if another set has it.

Tim





I have finally painted and started to decal my Monon #1-500 boxcar that we now know thanks to Ed Hawkins is actually a Pullman PS-1 using mostly decals done/sold by Mont Switzer. His set is pretty complete except for the Pullman stencil (found elsewhere) and the Gothic "Lift Here—To Open Or Close DDoor" stenciling on the Superior door. This stenciling is not on either of Microscale's Data sheets and I have looked thru the Microscale boxcar sets I have nor can I steal the phrase from the Yarmouth or Speedwitch kits or set I have.


I can but would prefer NOT to piece this very small lettering together from the Microscale Data Sheets if I can find it somewhere. Anyone know where this phrase can be found? I estimate this is two or three-inch lettering. My set from Mont dates from about 1996—has he updated his Monon sets since then?


Bill Welch


Re: weathering decals

Tim O'Connor
 

Tony

Excellent! I've wondered about those decals - I agree they are mostly for post-1960
modelers but clearly they work very well.

Tim O'Connor



      Something that is used by many modern-era freight car modelers, but seems unknown to most steam-era modelers, and of which I was only vaguely aware until Collinsville last month, is decal weathering for all kinds of streaking, from gray and black to rust. I bought a set of Weathering Solutions decals at Collinsville and have tried them out, leading to a blog post about the results. If you're interested, here is a link to that post:

http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2017/07/using-weathering-solutions-decals.html

Tony Thompson


weathering decals

Tony Thompson
 

Something that is used by many modern-era freight car modelers, but seems unknown to most steam-era modelers, and of which I was only vaguely aware until Collinsville last month, is decal weathering for all kinds of streaking, from gray and black to rust. I bought a set of Weathering Solutions decals at Collinsville and have tried them out, leading to a blog post about the results. If you're interested, here is a link to that post:

http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2017/07/using-weathering-solutions-decals.html


Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Looking for "Lift Here—To Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO

hubert mask
 

Tim.  Is that for the 6 foot door with the vertical lift bar in the middle of the door at the bottom?   If so I have several 40' Decals with that.  I believe

Maybe not the road name however. 

Hubert Mask
Mask Island Decals Inc


On Jul 24, 2017, at 1:42 PM, Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 



Bill - can you post a photo of that "Lift Here" lettering ? Without
a picture it's kinda hard to tell you if another set has it.

Tim





I have finally painted and started to decal my Monon #1-500 boxcar that we now know thanks to Ed Hawkins is actually a Pullman PS-1 using mostly decals done/sold by Mont Switzer. His set is pretty complete except for the Pullman stencil (found elsewhere) and the Gothic "Lift Here—To Open Or Close DDoor" stenciling on the Superior door. This stenciling is not on either of Microscale's Data sheets and I have looked thru the Microscale boxcar sets I have nor can I steal the phrase from the Yarmouth or Speedwitch kits or set I have.


I can but would prefer NOT to piece this very small lettering together from the Microscale Data Sheets if I can find it somewhere. Anyone know where this phrase can be found? I estimate this is two or three-inch lettering. My set from Mont dates from about 1996—has he updated his Monon sets since then?


Bill Welch


Re: Looking for "Lift Here�To Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO

Tim O'Connor
 



Bill - can you post a photo of that "Lift Here" lettering ? Without
a picture it's kinda hard to tell you if another set has it.

Tim





I have finally painted and started to decal my Monon #1-500 boxcar that we now know thanks to Ed Hawkins is actually a Pullman PS-1 using mostly decals done/sold by Mont Switzer. His set is pretty complete except for the Pullman stencil (found elsewhere) and the Gothic "Lift Here�To Open Or Close DDoor" stenciling on the Superior door. This stenciling is not on either of Microscale's Data sheets and I have looked thru the Microscale boxcar sets I have nor can I steal the phrase from the Yarmouth or Speedwitch kits or set I have.


I can but would prefer NOT to piece this very small lettering together from the Microscale Data Sheets if I can find it somewhere. Anyone know where this phrase can be found? I estimate this is two or three-inch lettering. My set from Mont dates from about 1996�has he updated his Monon sets since then?


Bill Welch


Looking for "Lift Here—To Open Or Close Door" Decals in HO

Bill Welch
 

I have finally painted and started to decal my Monon #1-500 boxcar that we now know thanks to Ed Hawkins is actually a Pullman PS-1 using mostly decals done/sold by Mont Switzer. His set is pretty complete except for the Pullman stencil (found elsewhere) and the Gothic "Lift Here—To Open Or Close Door" stenciling on the Superior door. This stenciling is not on either of Microscale's Data sheets and I have looked thru the Microscale boxcar sets I have nor can I steal the phrase from the Yarmouth or Speedwitch kits or set I have.


I can but would prefer NOT to piece this very small lettering together from the Microscale Data Sheets if I can find it somewhere. Anyone know where this phrase can be found? I estimate this is two or three-inch lettering. My set from Mont dates from about 1996—has he updated his Monon sets since then?


Bill Welch




Re: Wabash Yard Scene

destorzek@...
 




---In STMFC@..., <tony@...> wrote :

Dennis Storzek wrote:

 

. As a last resort to having the tank slip through the bands and slide past the end of the frame, the center tank band "lassoed" the dome. The center anchor was a much more elegant solution.


     According to the MCR report of 1903, the reason for the dome yoke was to prevent the tank rotating around its long axis. Full agreement, though, that the center anchor solved a whole bunch of problems in an admirably simple way. It was invented by John Van Dyke of UTL, if memory serves.
===================

I hadn't heard that before, but it makes perfect sense. It's a shame VanDyke was so far ahead of his time... The industry quickly adopted his center anchor, which used structural rivets through the tank shell, but totally resisted his frameless tankcar, which did the same.

Dennis Storzek

45761 - 45780 of 197031