Date   

For ERIE mill gondola fans

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi List Members,

I'm cleaning out some stuff I no longer need.

This is for ERIE mill gon fans, I have the following data pack... this includes

* "ERIE mill gondola - An easy HO project" MR Jun 1985 (article from magazine)

* Several photocopies of photos of the ERIE 14000

* 1938 ORER page showing this series

* Page showing car diagram


It is time for someone else to enjoy.

Great reference on this topic.

It is free, I will put it in an envelope and mail it to you for the asking.

Email me OFF LIST at

CLAUS
then the usual email separator
HELLGATEMODELS
period
COM

Thanks

Claus Schlund


Re: Drop Grab Irons

Tim O'Connor
 


I agree with Ben - very low BENEFIT/WORK ratio for replacing the Bowser
grabirons on their covered hoppers. They'll never look as good as Intermountain
kits but for the price and amount of effort, they look just fine.

Tim O'Connor


Honestly?  There aren't any on the aftermarket.  Besides, think of all those broken Intermountain/Branchline/Proto 2000/etc. grabs and detail parts down at the club - I've never been satisfied with either durability or appearance of drop grabs on higher end styrene kits.  You'd be better off keeping the Bowser parts as-is, which are actually quite nice.

Ben Hom


Re: Drop Grab Irons

Benjamin Hom
 

Lester Breuer asked:
"When starting a Bowser covered hopper which entails  removing molded on drop grab irons and installing new ones. I thought maybe plastic rather than wire. We have excellent Kadee bracket grab irons.  What are choices, if any for plastic, drop grab irons?"

Honestly?  There aren't any on the aftermarket.  Besides, think of all those broken Intermountain/Branchline/Proto 2000/etc. grabs and detail parts down at the club - I've never been satisfied with either durability or appearance of drop grabs on higher end styrene kits.  You'd be better off keeping the Bowser parts as-is, which are actually quite nice.


Ben Hom


Drop Grab Irons

frograbbit602
 

When starting a Bowser covered hopper which entails  removing molded on drop grab irons and installing new ones. I thought maybe plastic rather than wire. We have excellent Kadee bracket grab irons.  What are choices, if any for plastic, drop grab irons?

Lester Breuer



Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: USS roads steel mill gon

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Guys;

The prototype for the F&C USS "steel mill" gon was bought in good numbers for the URR and McKeesport Connecting. On the former they were used in tough steel mill hauling service, getting overloaded, burnt by hot slab, and other tough usage until getting cascaded to LT and others in the fifties. USS rebuilt cars over and over again, but this one was just not durable enough for the URR. The latter were mostly used in tube service out of USS' National Tube Works in McKeesport, PA, and as such were not abused as much as the URR cars. They were seen wherever tube went across the country. F&C did a really nice job on their kit, but could use additional lettering schemes if folks sent decent photos for assistance.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 12:57 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [EXTERNAL] [STMFC] Re: 1 Percent



I own the Jim Sands slide in question. The dimensional data is visible on the slide, though very faint. The gon is heavily rusted, almost like it had a fire inside. The visible data is down low, below the gon floor. Three panels have been painted, and contain the reporting marks, ACI color panel, and owner logo. There is also a patch painted black that contains dimensions next to the man leaning against the car.



Doug Harding

Blockedwww.iowacentralrr.org


Re: FS: Walthers Proto National B-1 trucks

Schleigh Mike
 

Hi Sam!

I'll take the trucks if still available.

Mike Schleigh   724-458-7405


From: "monon@... [STMFC]"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 9:18 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: FS: Walthers Proto National B-1 trucks

 
I've reduced the price for the 5 pair of Walthers Proto National B-1 rigid trucks to $35 plus shipping. If interested please contact me offlist.

Sam Reynolds



1932 ARA flat panel roof detail shot ?

Benjamin Scanlon
 

Hi 


Looking through the 1932 ARA book (Speedwitch) and the article in the Seaboard-Coast Line Modeler (issue 7) about their build of Atlas' SAL version of this car, I cannot find a close-up detail shot of the lap seam and riveted join between the roof sheets.  


Further, if I understand aright (??) the X29 roof is either the same or similar but I have drawn a blank on detail shots there too.  


In Half-0, Atlas and Sunshine seem to have gone different routes; Atlas having a line of rivets but no seam join or any 'hump' where the seams overlap. 


Sunshine's roof suggests the 'hump' where the seams overlap, and includes the seam. I don't know whether the Sunshine version is to scale but it could be hard to do, even in Half-0, so if it isn't, no shame there. 


Does anyone have a detail shot of one of these roofs they might share?  


I am wondering how much detail to go into on a TT scale roof. It could be that in TT, the lapped seam would appear so flat that any effort creating the 'hump' is not a good use of time.  


(The dilemma about whether to sneak up on reality by under-doing as opposed to over-doing small details.)


I did a test version. Reduced a paper photocopy of an SAL 1932 ARA roof diagram to 1:120, rivets pressed into the paper from underneath with a bulletin board pin, laminated to 0.5mm Evergreen sheet, and after laminating, suggesting the join between panels by cutting into the paper with a hobby knife ahead of the lines of rivets.  


It's pretty flat.  Maybe too flat.   


Ben Scanlon

London, England




Re: FS: Plano boxcar and covered hopper roofwalks

monon@...
 

I forgot to mention in my post that I accept USPS Money Orders or PayPal for making payment. Thanks!

Sam Reynolds


Re: This is for ATSF flat car fans

John Barry
 

Claus,

Any chance it's still in your possession?  I've been out making the field safe for beef critters.
 
John Barry
 
ATSF North Bay Lines 
Golden Gates & Fast Freights 
Lovettsville, VA

707-490-9696 

PO Box 44736 
Washington, DC 20026-4736



From: "'Claus Schlund' claus@... [STMFC]"
To: STMFC
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 12:46 PM
Subject: [STMFC] This is for ATSF flat car fans

 
Hi List Members,

I'm cleaning out some stuff I no longer need.

This is for ATSF flat car fans, I have the following article...

AT&SF Ft-J,O,P Flat Cars by Student PrototypeModeler Apr 1978 pg 16-18

I cut this out of the magazine for reference, but it is time for someone else to enjoy.

Great reference on this topic.

It is free, I will put it in an envelope and mail it to you for the asking.

Email me OFF LIST at

CLAUS
then the usual email separator
HELLGATEMODELS
period
COM

Thanks

Claus Schlund




FS: Plano boxcar and covered hopper roofwalks

monon@...
 

I have for sale 12 #191 40' Apex boxcar roofwalks, 10 #092 3-bay PS2 (Concor 47' car) covered hopper roofwalks, and 3 #089 2-bay PS2 (MDC 35' car) covered hopper roofwalks. All roofwalks are in their original Plano packaging. I'm asking $45 for the 40' boxcar roofwalks, $40 for the 3-bay covered hopper roofwalks, and $10 for the 2-bay covered hopper roofwalks. Price for the lot of roofwalks is $90. Shipping is included in the price. If interested please contact me offlist.

Sam Reynolds



Re: FS: Walthers Proto National B-1 trucks

monon@...
 

I've reduced the price for the 5 pair of Walthers Proto National B-1 rigid trucks to $35 plus shipping. If interested please contact me offlist.

Sam Reynolds


Re: This is for ATSF flat car fans

Steve SANDIFER
 

If still available, I would enjoy having this

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

12027 Mulholland Drive

Meadows Place, TX 77477

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 11:40 AM
To: STMFC
Subject: [STMFC] This is for ATSF flat car fans

 

 

Hi List Members,

I'm cleaning out some stuff I no longer need.

This is for ATSF flat car fans, I have the following article...

AT&SF Ft-J,O,P Flat Cars by Student PrototypeModeler Apr 1978 pg 16-18

I cut this out of the magazine for reference, but it is time for someone else to enjoy.

Great reference on this topic.

It is free, I will put it in an envelope and mail it to you for the asking.

Email me OFF LIST at

CLAUS
then the usual email separator
HELLGATEMODELS
period
COM

Thanks

Claus Schlund


Re: Tool maintenance

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Jim, Excellent question! And you’ve hit on the fact that these tools have been around on my desk for years without this issue, at least, not to this degree. And yes, I had left the top off a bottle of Testor’s liquid cement for styrene. As you are, I am not sure if that is a categorical acidic vapor or not.



One thing that was odd: The square’s blade was corroded on the underside (when it sits on the tabletop the blade is so short as to be parallel to the table) but not the top side. I’m wondering if the vapors might sink and be closer to the table than up (a little) higher.



That doesn’t quite extend to the nippers, though, as they were a little farther away.



I think the “hurricane leftovers” are a big part of this. Cool damp weather . . .



I was annoyed with myself enough for leaving that top off without this as a side effect!



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2017 2:43 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Tool maintenance





Schuyler,

You've gotten some good recommendations for prevention - various
light oils all work well. Put a small amount of some in a soft cloth
(I use cotton) and wipe it across the surface of the tool - if you can
see any look of "wetness" it was enough ... you do not need enough
that the tool feels oily and transfers oil to your fingers when you
handle it (wipe off the excess!).

****

But ... I didn't see any one ask this question ...

If I understand correctly you had some tools that - in just a couple of
weeks got rusty. And that these are tools that you've been using for a
long time and regularly and that they don't get rusty.

===> You should be asking your self "what was different for that
two weeks?".

Two weeks is not a lot of time and normal moisture should not
normally attack a tool in that amount of time. Is it possible that
you had some sort of corrosive in the air (and near your workbench)
- such as an open bottle of paint thinner, or any other 'acid' (not an
actual acid as much as anything that might have accelerated the
rust rate). Some of the products that are in that category would
be ACC, vinegar, any paint thinner, etc. Products that I would not
expect to cause a tool to corrode would be acrylic paints (nor
most thinner based paints but just due to the amount of thinner
in them), white glue (or KK), etc. One product that I don't know
which category it would fall into would be styrene glues such as
Tenax, etc. Although 'just' water in a container would create
a certain amount of humidity ... I wouldn't expect that to cause
a problem (and I often have a plastic cup of water on my bench
that dries out due to time and temperature. Similarly - I would
not be quick to point the finger at ACC ... simply because it is
so highly volatile that I can't imagine it affecting any tools on
the bench even if it was right next to the tools.

Was there something that when you got back to your bench
that had dried out?
- Jim B.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Tool maintenance

Jim Betz
 

Schuyler,

  You've gotten some good recommendations for prevention - various
light oils all work well.  Put a small amount of some in a soft cloth
(I use cotton) and wipe it across the surface of the tool - if you can
see any look of "wetness" it was enough ... you do not need enough
that the tool feels oily and transfers oil to your fingers when you
handle it (wipe off the excess!).

                                                  ****

  But ... I didn't see any one ask this question ...

  If I understand correctly you had some tools that - in just a couple of
weeks got rusty.  And that these are tools that you've been using for a
long time and regularly and that they don't get rusty.

  ===> You should be asking your self "what was different for that
            two weeks?".

  Two weeks is not a lot of time and normal moisture should not
normally attack a tool in that amount of time.  Is it possible that
you had some sort of corrosive in the air (and near your workbench)
- such as an open bottle of paint thinner, or any other 'acid' (not an
actual acid as much as anything that might have accelerated the
rust rate).  Some of the products that are in that category would
be ACC, vinegar, any paint thinner, etc.  Products that I would not
expect to cause a tool to corrode would be acrylic paints (nor
most thinner based paints but just due to the amount of thinner
in them), white glue (or KK), etc.  One product that I don't know
which category it would fall into would be styrene glues such as
Tenax, etc.  Although 'just' water in a container would create
a certain amount of humidity ... I wouldn't expect that to cause
a problem (and I often have a plastic cup of water on my bench
that dries out due to time and temperature.  Similarly - I would
not be quick to point the finger at ACC ... simply because it is
so highly volatile that I can't imagine it affecting any tools on
the bench even if it was right next to the tools.

  Was there something that when you got back to your bench
that had dried out?
                             - Jim B.


Re: Tool maintenance

frograbbit602
 

Schuyler I have used WD-40 to remove the rust as I have found it to work as well as products specifically for designed for this task.  Once rust is removed I apply Sandaro Top Cote which is a tool surface sealant that repels dirt and moisture and stops rust.  I purchase it at my Rockler wood working store.
Lester Breuer



Re: Tool maintenance

proto48er
 

Schuyler - I have been happy for many years with Starrett M-1 lubricant for prevention of rust on calipers, parallels, rules, and other tooling.   In addition to being a lubricant, it also has a component that inhibits rust.  The lubricant portion is comprised of hydrotreated light petroleum distillates which evaporate shortly after application.  An almost undetectable residual rust-inhibiting film is left on the surface.  Years ago, this film may have included whale oil!!  I have also used it on drill presses, milling machine and pantograph tables, lathe beds, bending brake tooling, shears and any other machined surface subject to rusting in my unheated garage. It is a very light oil suitable for use on precision instruments, and is not a lubricant for bearings, etc.  It can usually be obtained at a local machinery dealer - very expensive to order directly from Starrett because you have to purchase a lot of it!

A.T. Kott


Re: Spray bomb painting photos

Michael Gross
 

Agree with Tony and others who say there are both good and bad spray cans—many better than the cans of yore.  Just remember, as with an airbrush, it is recommended practice to always begin your spraying OFF the model before sweeping across the model itself.

Cheers!

Michael Gross
Pasadena, CA


This is for ATSF flat car fans

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi List Members,

I'm cleaning out some stuff I no longer need.

This is for ATSF flat car fans, I have the following article...

AT&SF Ft-J,O,P Flat Cars by Student PrototypeModeler Apr 1978 pg 16-18

I cut this out of the magazine for reference, but it is time for someone else to enjoy.

Great reference on this topic.

It is free, I will put it in an envelope and mail it to you for the asking.

Email me OFF LIST at

CLAUS
then the usual email separator
HELLGATEMODELS
period
COM

Thanks

Claus Schlund


Re: Tool maintenance

SUVCWORR@...
 

I use Remington Rem Oil.  It comes in small bottles, spray and wipes.  

Rich Orr


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Mang mnmang@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...>
To: STMFC
Sent: Sun, Oct 8, 2017 9:42 pm
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Tool maintenance



Rich,

Do you have recommended brand? I use CLP for some applications, but I don't believe it has Teflon.

Michael Mang

On Sun, Oct 8, 2017 at 7:12 PM SUVCWORR@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

use gun oil with Teflon    lubricates, drives out moisture removes oil from fingers and adds protective coating

Rich Orr




-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Harley dick.harley4up@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...>
To: STMFC <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 8, 2017 6:28 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Tool maintenance


Schuyler Larrabee asks, "What’s the best way to protect these tools from rust?"

WD-40. "Drives out moisture."
Wipe/spray a wet layer and allow to evaporate.


HTH,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach, CA




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Re: 1 Percent: now Steel Companies Mill Gon

Schleigh Mike
 

I will look more for that sketch.  Give me a little time.

Regards----Mike Schleigh



From: "Tim O'Connor timboconnor@... [STMFC]"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] 1 Percent: now Steel Companies Mill Gon

 

Unfortunately I can only find this modern, simplified herald online.
Maybe Mike Schleigh made an accurate enough sketch to get art started?
http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/22900459.jpg

Tim O'Connor


I am pretty sure if someone gives Sharon the artwork for the LT she would
do it and add it to the kit.

Bill Welch