Date   

Re: Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

Jesus Pe�a
 

Paul,

Your point is well taken, from my initial research I will need approximately 23 flat cars( along with 6 coaches and 3 box/baggage cars)  I will be using  many Proto 2000 ARA flats cars to represent other road names. The Proto kits are nice because they are accurate and easy to assemble and they are also Available RTR. For ATSF prototypes of early WWII, Sunshine is the only game in town. Hence I try take good opportunity to acquire the Sunshine kits. But to your point I probably have enough ATSF Flat cars to model the MAIN consist 

Thanks for the helpful comments 

Jesus 




On Monday, October 16, 2017, 1:42 PM, 'Paul Koehler' koehlers@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

Jesus:

 

You might want a mixture of railroad owned flats in your main train.  When it came time to move equipment the military needed it right now so the railroads would send what ever they had close by.

 

Paul C. Koehler

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto: STMFC@... ]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 10:32 AM
To: STMFC YahooGroup
Subject: [STMFC] Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

 

 

Good morning everyone,

 

I have had the good fortune of acquiring two Sunshine Kits (kit numbers 30.10 and 18.2) unfortunately when I opened the boxes I found both kits were missing the instructions. if anyone has a set of the instructions I would certainly appreciate a scan copy of the instructions.

On a related note, I will be using these kits to complete a consist of a WWII ATSF MAIN Train. The Warbonnet Magazine had published an article describing these movements so I am very interested in Sunshine ATSF Flat cars ( I have acquired 11 ATSF kits so far)

I am willing to trade either the B&O P 11 Flat Car or the C&O Box car for a Sunshine ATSF Flat car.

 

Please contact me off list  josiahrr at yahoo

 

Thanks

 

Jesus Peña

Concord, CA

 


Re: Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

Paul Koehler
 

Jesus:

 

You might want a mixture of railroad owned flats in your main train.  When it came time to move equipment the military needed it right now so the railroads would send what ever they had close by.

 

Paul C. Koehler

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 10:32 AM
To: STMFC YahooGroup
Subject: [STMFC] Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

 

 

Good morning everyone,

 

I have had the good fortune of acquiring two Sunshine Kits (kit numbers 30.10 and 18.2) unfortunately when I opened the boxes I found both kits were missing the instructions. if anyone has a set of the instructions I would certainly appreciate a scan copy of the instructions.

On a related note, I will be using these kits to complete a consist of a WWII ATSF MAIN Train. The Warbonnet Magazine had published an article describing these movements so I am very interested in Sunshine ATSF Flat cars ( I have acquired 11 ATSF kits so far)

I am willing to trade either the B&O P 11 Flat Car or the C&O Box car for a Sunshine ATSF Flat car.

 

Please contact me off list  josiahrr at yahoo

 

Thanks

 

Jesus Peña

Concord, CA

 


Re: Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

Jim Hayes
 

I'm sorry. I spoke too soon. Jesus, I'm sending you everything I have on the C&O boxcar (18.2). However I have almost nothing on the B&O flatcar (30.10). I'm sending you the flyer for that kit which may be of some help.

If anyone has the instructions for Sunshine 30.10, the B&O flatcar, would you please send them to Jesus and also send a copy to me. I could use the PDS too,

By the way, I have the Instructions and PDSs for most (but not quite all) of the Sunshine kits if anyone else needs similar help.

Jim

On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 11:19 AM, Jim Hayes <jimhayes97225@...> wrote:
Jesus, I have the instructions for both of these. I'll send them to you off-line. Do you also need the PDSs?

Jim

On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 10:31 AM, Jesus Pena josiahrr@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Good morning everyone,

I have had the good fortune of acquiring two Sunshine Kits (kit numbers 30.10 and 18.2) unfortunately when I opened the boxes I found both kits were missing the instructions. if anyone has a set of the instructions I would certainly appreciate a scan copy of the instructions.
On a related note, I will be using these kits to complete a consist of a WWII ATSF MAIN Train. The Warbonnet Magazine had published an article describing these movements so I am very interested in Sunshine ATSF Flat cars ( I have acquired 11 ATSF kits so far)
I am willing to trade either the B&O P 11 Flat Car or the C&O Box car for a Sunshine ATSF Flat car.

Please contact me off list  josiahrr at yahoo

Thanks

Jesus Peña
Concord, CA
 




Re: Decals and Future?

Bill Keene <wakeene@...>
 

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the tip. I have a good number of decals and rivets to lay down in my future.

Cheers,
— Bill


On Oct 16, 2017, at 12:04 PM, 'Steve Sandifer' steve.sandifer@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:


I tried this (they recommend floating them in Future) on a car I scratch built, but was not successful. There was too much “float” to get the rivets where I wanted them. Instead I gloss coated the car and laid the decals down like any other decal. One thing I learned was not to cut a strip of rivet decals too thin. Thin strips break. If you want to lay down a straight line of rivets in one piece, don’t go any narrower than 1/16.”

 

 

< p class="MsoNormal">J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] 
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 11:29 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Decals and Future?

 

  


Yes it sounds like he is using the Future as an adh esive.

For regular decals I am inclined to let the Future dry first,
to make a glossy surface for the decals.

You can always go OVER the Archer rivets with a little Future
to help keep them in place.




WRT Archer Decals, I think part of the benefit is
that they are then truly adhered to the model.  No
accidental flicking them off.  The video I
watched, some guy working on some Star Wars model,
was using a decal that must have been much thicker
and more durable than most model RR decals, as he
was kind of scrubbing it and pushing it into
recesses before finally using some Solvaset on it.
He emphasized kind of squeegee-ing out as much
Future from under the decal as possible.  OTOH, he
rather slathered it on before applying the decals,
so much so that he wiped it off with a paper towel
so it wouldn't dry as a lumpy surface!

I was not impressed with his technique!

I think if I were to try this with a RR decal, it
would be a very thin painted-on "puddle" of
Future, and using decals I am pretty sure are
durable.

Schuyler




Re: Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

Jesus Pe�a
 

Jim,

Thank you very much and yes I will also need the PDS's


Jesus


On Monday, October 16, 2017 11:19 AM, "Jim Hayes jimhayes97225@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
Jesus, I have the instructions for both of these. I'll send them to you off-line. Do you also need the PDSs?

Jim

On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 10:31 AM, Jesus Pena josiahrr@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 
Good morning everyone,

I have had the good fortune of acquiring two Sunshine Kits (kit numbers 30.10 and 18.2) unfortunately when I opened the boxes I found both kits were missing the instructions. if anyone has a set of the instructions I would certainly appreciate a scan copy of the instructions.
On a related note, I will be using these kits to complete a consist of a WWII ATSF MAIN Train. The Warbonnet Magazine had published an article describing these movements so I am very interested in Sunshine ATSF Flat cars ( I have acquired 11 ATSF kits so far)
I am willing to trade either the B&O P 11 Flat Car or the C&O Box car for a Sunshine ATSF Flat car.

Please contact me off list  josiahrr at yahoo

Thanks

Jesus Peña
Concord, CA
 




Re: Decals and Future?

Steve SANDIFER
 

I tried this (they recommend floating them in Future) on a car I scratch built, but was not successful. There was too much “float” to get the rivets where I wanted them. Instead I gloss coated the car and laid the decals down like any other decal. One thing I learned was not to cut a strip of rivet decals too thin. Thin strips break. If you want to lay down a straight line of rivets in one piece, don’t go any narrower than 1/16.”

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 11:29 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Decals and Future?

 

 


Yes it sounds like he is using the Future as an adhesive.

For regular decals I am inclined to let the Future dry first,
to make a glossy surface for the decals.

You can always go OVER the Archer rivets with a little Future
to help keep them in place.




WRT Archer Decals, I think part of the benefit is
that they are then truly adhered to the model.  No
accidental flicking them off.  The video I
watched, some guy working on some Star Wars model,
was using a decal that must have been much thicker
and more durable than most model RR decals, as he
was kind of scrubbing it and pushing it into
recesses before finally using some Solvaset on it.
He emphasized kind of squeegee-ing out as much
Future from under the decal as possible.  OTOH, he
rather slathered it on before applying the decals,
so much so that he wiped it off with a paper towel
so it wouldn't dry as a lumpy surface!

I was not impressed with his technique!

I think if I were to try this with a RR decal, it
would be a very thin painted-on "puddle" of
Future, and using decals I am pretty sure are
durable.

Schuyler


Re: Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

Jim Hayes
 

Jesus, I have the instructions for both of these. I'll send them to you off-line. Do you also need the PDSs?

Jim

On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 10:31 AM, Jesus Pena josiahrr@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Good morning everyone,

I have had the good fortune of acquiring two Sunshine Kits (kit numbers 30.10 and 18.2) unfortunately when I opened the boxes I found both kits were missing the instructions. if anyone has a set of the instructions I would certainly appreciate a scan copy of the instructions.
On a related note, I will be using these kits to complete a consist of a WWII ATSF MAIN Train. The Warbonnet Magazine had published an article describing these movements so I am very interested in Sunshine ATSF Flat cars ( I have acquired 11 ATSF kits so far)
I am willing to trade either the B&O P 11 Flat Car or the C&O Box car for a Sunshine ATSF Flat car.

Please contact me off list  josiahrr at yahoo

Thanks

Jesus Peña
Concord, CA
 



Help needed with Sunshine Kits for B&O P-11 (30.10) & C&O 5400 Series Car with Deco ends,Creco Doors and Viking Roof (18.2)

Jesus Pe�a
 

Good morning everyone,

I have had the good fortune of acquiring two Sunshine Kits (kit numbers 30.10 and 18.2) unfortunately when I opened the boxes I found both kits were missing the instructions. if anyone has a set of the instructions I would certainly appreciate a scan copy of the instructions.
On a related note, I will be using these kits to complete a consist of a WWII ATSF MAIN Train. The Warbonnet Magazine had published an article describing these movements so I am very interested in Sunshine ATSF Flat cars ( I have acquired 11 ATSF kits so far)
I am willing to trade either the B&O P 11 Flat Car or the C&O Box car for a Sunshine ATSF Flat car.

Please contact me off list  josiahrr at yahoo

Thanks

Jesus Peña
Concord, CA
 


Re: Decals and Future?

Tim O'Connor
 


Yes it sounds like he is using the Future as an adhesive.

For regular decals I am inclined to let the Future dry first,
to make a glossy surface for the decals.

You can always go OVER the Archer rivets with a little Future
to help keep them in place.





WRT Archer Decals, I think part of the benefit is
that they are then truly adhered to the model.  No
accidental flicking them off.  The video I
watched, some guy working on some Star Wars model,
was using a decal that must have been much thicker
and more durable than most model RR decals, as he
was kind of scrubbing it and pushing it into
recesses before finally using some Solvaset on it.
He emphasized kind of squeegee-ing out as much
Future from under the decal as possible.  OTOH, he
rather slathered it on before applying the decals,
so much so that he wiped it off with a paper towel
so it wouldn't dry as a lumpy surface!

I was not impressed with his technique!

I think if I were to try this with a RR decal, it
would be a very thin painted-on "puddle" of
Future, and using decals I am pretty sure are
durable.

Schuyler


Adapting Kadee brake hardware

Eric Hansmann
 

Bill Welch shares his techniques to adapt HO scale Kadee brake hardware to other models. Check out the details on the Resin Car Works blog!
http://blog.resincarworks.com/adapting-kadee-brake-components/


Eric Hansmann

RCW web guy


Re: Decals and Future?

Schuyler Larrabee
 

WRT Archer Decals, I think part of the benefit is
that they are then truly adhered to the model. No
accidental flicking them off. The video I
watched, some guy working on some Star Wars model,
was using a decal that must have been much thicker
and more durable than most model RR decals, as he
was kind of scrubbing it and pushing it into
recesses before finally using some Solvaset on it.
He emphasized kind of squeegee-ing out as much
Future from under the decal as possible. OTOH, he
rather slathered it on before applying the decals,
so much so that he wiped it off with a paper towel
so it wouldn't dry as a lumpy surface!



I was not impressed with his technique!



I think if I were to try this with a RR decal, it
would be a very thin painted-on "puddle" of
Future, and using decals I am pretty sure are
durable.



Schuyler


That sounds intriguing... I have used Future on
models to hide scratches and
it lays down beautifully (self leveling) and very
thinly so I can see how a spot
application would provide a good base for a decal
on a non-glossy surface.

Tim O'




I looked at some videos that are linked from the
Archer Fine Transfers site earlier tonight. They
talk about floating decals on a "puddle" of
Future. That's a new idea on me, but they say it
eliminates silvering and bubbles.

Has anybody on this list tried this?

Schuyler


Re: Decals and Future?

Tim O'Connor
 


That sounds intriguing... I have used Future on models to hide scratches and
it lays down beautifully (self leveling) and very thinly so I can see how a spot
application would provide a good base for a decal on a non-glossy surface.

Tim O'



I looked at some videos that are linked from the Archer Fine Transfers site earlier tonight.  They talk about floating decals on a �puddle� of Future.  That�s a new idea on me, but they say it eliminates silvering and bubbles.
 
Has anybody on this list tried this?
 
Schuyler


Re: pics of upgraded ATLAS 70ton hart ballast car?

Ted Culotta
 

Actually not out of print. I just needed to get another case from storage and I did. I have more of it than I'll ever need....


Decals and Future?

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I looked at some videos that are linked from the Archer Fine Transfers site earlier tonight.  They talk about floating decals on a “puddle” of Future.  That’s a new idea on me, but they say it eliminates silvering and bubbles.

 

Has anybody on this list tried this?

 

Schuyler

 


Re: pics of upgraded ATLAS 70ton hart ballast car?

StephenK
 

Trix did not fix the problem.   I have a string of 12 cars, mostly Marklin and a few Trix, and they all have solid plates where there should be open air.   I did not change these, but mounted Kadee coupler boxes to the plates and let it go.   I added uncoupling levers and changed the numbers.   After weathering, the train looks good.   I also did this to one NP car since, 1) my LHS had one and 2) NP had these cars.   I also do not know if any other road bought these, but they are correct for UP and NP.   Marklin/Trix has, of course, painted these for NYC, among others, but I am sure these are foobies.

As for the Atlas cars, the early runs had gaps between the coupler boxes and the bolsters, which looked pretty bad.  Later runs had this problem fixed.  If you have the early models, it is still a reasonably easy fix--just cut some styrene to fit.


Steve Kay


Reprints of out of stock Focus on Freight Cars Volumes 5, 6, 7, and 9

Ted Culotta
 

I am reprinting four volumes of Focus on Freight Cars that have been out of stock. I also have several new decal sets for Steam Era freight cars (with more coming). More details at the Speedwitch site.Thank you.

Cheers,
Ted


Re: And the weight of the cast truck is? Bolster? (was Weight Of A Freight Car Wheel?)

Dave Nelson
 

Apologies for the late reply but thank you very much!

 

Dave Nelson

=======================

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2017 11:40 PM


Dave Nelson] wrote:



 

Thank you all for the thoughts on the weight of a cast wheel. 

 What is the weight of a truck side frame?

 A truck bolster?

 

  Dave, you might enjoy my article in _Model Railroad Hobbyist_ in the issue for September 2016 (download or read on line, for free, any time, at their website, www.mrhmag.com ). You will find all this discussed there. Bolsters weighed 1000 pounds or more, as did side frames, and then add the spring planks (if any), spring packages, and brake linkage. Most freight trucks in the transition era weighed between 12,000 and 14,000 pounds.

 

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA

2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com

(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...

Publishers of books on railroad history

Model-Railroad-Hobbiest.com _


Re: pics of upgraded ATLAS 70ton hart ballast car?

Mikebrock
 

Ben Hom writes:

 

“Johannes Markwart asked:

"I have two HO ATLAS 70ton hart ballast cars I want to complete before giving them away for weathering. I have searched and found a lot of postings mentioning their main flaws - the missing center sill and bolsters - but I did not find photos of such work. Maybe the postings are too old and the pics gone? Does anyone have a pic of an upgraded model for me? I don't intend to make the cars 99%ers, just want to add the center sill and bolsters."

 

IIRC, Mike Brock detailed these upgrades in Prototype Railroad Modeling Vol 1 from Speedwitch Media.  It's out of print, but another list member might be able to pull it to check before I get home from the office today.

http://speedwitchmedia.com/product/prototype-railroad-modeling-volume-one/

 

That is the source of the article I wrote on modifying the Atlas 70 ton  ballast car [ HK-70-1 ]…”A Tale of Two Hoppers” which also includes the modifications to the Marklin version of the UP H-70-1 70 ton UP 3 bay hopper car. The H-70-1 is an important car also for UP modelers and I was amazed when Marklin produced these rather rare cars [ I’m not sure if Trix “fixed” the problem with these models when and if they produced them ]. NP is the only RR I know with similar cars ].

 

The problem with the H-70-1 is very different from that with the HK-70-1. The coupler looks like it should be taken to an open window on a clear night and thrown  toward the Andromeda Galaxy from where it no doubt came. Also the area above the coupler is a solid plastic sheet on the model which needs to be replaced by L shaped beams in an “open” space..

 

When I find photos I’ll send them to any interested parties.

 

Mike Brock

 

 


Re: bananas (was RE: URTX and MILW...)

RICH CHAPIN
 

The IC HS “Green Diamond” issue for Apr 1997 has feature on banana traffic

 

Rich Chapin


Re: Owl Mountain

Paul Doggett <paul.doggett2472@...>
 

Charles you are correct.

Paul 


On 15 Oct 2017, at 02:32, ceth512@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Paul,  I have just began the building of TEN of those beautiful kits.   I have to agree that they are wonderful.  A car that us SP/TNO fans have longed for a long time.

Charles Etheredge
Austin, Texas

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