Date   

Detailed coupler boxes from Smoky Mtn Model Works (reminder)

Jim King
 

SMMW’s recently-released coupler boxes have been well-received so I thought a quick reminder is appropriate to reach those who may not know about ‘em.  Visit my web page for more info, then contact me off-list to place an order.  All coupler styles and colors are in-stock.  I do not have a “shopping cart” option … just send a short email with the part numbers you want, I’ll reply with an invoice and you send payment.  Pretty simple.

 

http://www.smokymountainmodelworks.com/HO_draft_gear+cplrs.html

 

Jim King

www.smokymountainmodelworks.com

 


Re: Lettering requirements

Steve SANDIFER
 

I’d really like a copy of that material. Being a resin builder, getting decals right is an issue.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2018 7:30 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Lettering requirements

 

 

Stephen Sandifer asked:

> When did the lettering requirements on the sides of cars change? In the
> 1880s the primary info seemed to be the ID and car #. Later other dimensions
> and weight were added and at different locations or in different
> configurations. I assume this was a federal requirement. Enlighten me
> please.

The Master Car Builder's Association, a voluntary trade group, issued Recommended Practices and Standards for various
aspects of lettering, marking, and stenciling beginning as early as 1893. Early on, new practices were added and
revisions made in a near continuous fashion: 1896, 1901, 1902, 1906, 1908, 1909, 1911, 1913... but more significant
changes were introduced in 1920 and 1926.

I have been working up a detailed account of these changes, which I anticipate adding as an appendix to complement a
similarly detailed account of B&M lettering practices during the 1900-1930 period.

Earl Tuson


WESTERFIELD MODELS Newsletter, Vol 7, No 1, Feb, 2018

dahminator68
 

Hello Steam Era Modelers:

 
We are pleased to announce that Westerfield Models has a new Kit available:

Our newest HO Kit release is the 
 #12800 Series B-50-15 single sheathed box car with steel sheathing, Murphy radial roof and AB brakes for Southern Pacific and subsidiaries.  Our One-Piece Body Kit covers series #14480-15229, 750 cars built in 1925 by Standard Steel Car Co.  The original single wood sheathed box cars differed from previous SP types in that they used hat section side posts of the 1924 design in a Pratt truss arrangement.  In 1935, SP began converting the cars to steel sheathing, first for Pacific Motor Trucking (PMT) service, then for Baggage Express (BX) service in 1942.  Freight versions of these cars also began receiving steel sheathing in this period and by the beginning of WWII, 930 cars in freight service had been converted (Total of all B-50-15 built versions was 3900 cars).  Beginning in 1942, the cars began receiving AB brakes as well.  Look for future Westerfield Kit releases covering the original version as well as PMT, BX and Overnight versions of these cars.

Our unpainted HO Kits include detail parts appropriate for the B-50-15, including the following details:
Improved Cast Urethane One-Piece Body Construction with Fine Details.
Urethane Castings of detail parts, including many car specific parts.
Detailed Hi-Tech rubber air hoses.
Yarmouth Etched Bronze Corner Steps and Carmer uncoupling levers.
Proprietary Decals covering all freight versions of the car.
Detailed Step by Step Instructions and History Sheets with assembly and finished model photographs.
Recommended Trucks:  Tahoe Model Works TMW-109 or TMW-209 Barber Lateral Motion Trucks.
Tahoe TMW-109  or TMW-209 Barber Lateral  Trucks available separately or with Kit (See below).
Kadee Couplers are available separately.

These are available direct from Westerfield Models for $ 45.00 each plus shipping.  Most of our Kits do not include trucks or couplers.  We do offer Tahoe Trucks and Kadee Couplers for this Series of Kit and separately for our other Kits.  See the Kit versions listed below.  Operating Era for B-50-15 box cars covered by #12800 Series Kits: 1925-1973.  Modern version era: 1935-1973.

Please also note that our Kit is available NOW.

AVAILABLE NOW ON OUR WEBSITE UNDER "New Kit Releases".
KIT NUMBER:
12851  B-50-15 SS Box Car, Steel Sheathed, Murphy Radial Roof, No End Doors, AB Brakes, SP Freight    $45.00
12881  B-50-15 SS Box Car Kit with Tahoe TMW-109 Trucks with Code 110 Wheels                                      $51.00
12882  B-50-15 SS Box Car Kit with Tahoe TMW-209 Trucks with Semi-Scale Wheels                                   $51.00

We would like to ask if anyone has Sunshine Kit #38.25 or #38.26.  We would like to borrow the old decal set from your Kit in order to make a new decal set for a new release of that kit version with a One-Piece Body.  In return for letting Westerfield Models borrow your decals, we will send you a new set of decals when they are ready.
If interested, please contact us at westerfieldmodels@....

Also available is our recent Kit release  #12451 Express Service Box Car, NWP:
#12451       USRA DS Box Car, Express Service, AB Brakes, NWP, Kit Only.                                                      $46.00
#12481       USRA DS Box Car, Express Service, AB Brk, NWP, with Tahoe TMW-112 Code 110 Trucks      $52.00
#12482       USRA DS Box Car, Express Service, AB Brk, NWP, with Tahoe TMW-212 Code 88 Trucks        $53.00

All of the above Kits are available through our website:     
westerfieldmodels.com
We are also glad to accept orders via Mailed in Order Form or phone.

Westerfield Kits include new HO scale unpainted urethane castings, and are complete with quality details, detailed instruction/history sheets 
and proprietary decals covering all versions of the prototype car.   Trucks and couplers are not included but are available separately. 
 
Westerfield Models is available for custom casting work.  We can make castings from your patterns, both from your custom masters or your 3D printed masters.  Please see our Website, Main Page "Custom Castings" for more information.  Link to page:  http://westerfieldmodels.com/116622.html

Questions or Suggestions?  Feel free to email us at:  westerfieldmodels@....
 
Thank you,
Andrew Dahm
Westerfield Models, LLC
westerfieldmodels.com
westerfieldmodels@...
Like us on Facebook!




Re: a sad modeling milestone

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I’ve used the Testors solution and it seemed to do what it needed to do. I’ve not used it on Champ decals, however, just on Ted Culotta’s decals.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2018 10:19 AM
To: stmfc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: a sad modeling milestone





I still have a little bit left, don't know what I will do when I run out. Although somebody gave me three bottles of Testors Decal Setting solution and I did use it once and it seemed to work fine.



Rick Jesionowski





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


SP B-50-15 and -16

Ted Culotta
 

With the discussion recently about the Southern Pacific B-50-15 and -16 box cars on several lists, I thought I would share some market intelligence. The SP B-50-15 and -16 cars, based upon the ARA design for single sheathed box cars, will be be offered in HO as “modular” tooled, injection molded styrene kits, allowing for the production of several different variants, with different roof, end, and side combinations, including the steel sheathed versions. Lettering will be offered for freight, MOW, Pacific Motor Trucking (PMT - early Overnight), Railway Express Agency, and Overnight schemes, where appropriate.


The toolmaker is one of the best in the business, so the kits will be exceptional. This is a car that all modelers will want, as there were 3,900 B-50-15s and another 1,003 B-50-16s. They were in service from the mid-1920s well into the 1950s, with small numbers surviving into the 1960s. Some cars labored on in MOW service, too.


These are expected in the middle of 2018. For more information about the prototypes, see Southern Pacific Freight Cars, Volume 4: Box Cars by Tony Thompson from Signature Press.


Please no requests for additional details. I am under a non-disclosure agreement, but am permitted to share this information.


Cheers,

Ted



Re: Cocoa Beach 2019

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Yahbut . . .



That was discussed at CCB ’18 and it was decided to move it one week later than the “traditional” first full weekend.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2018 5:05 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Cocoa Beach 2019





It's traditionally the first full weekend of the year



Jerry Glow





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Lettering requirements

Tony Thompson
 

Steve Sandifer wrote:

 
When did the lettering requirements on the sides of cars change? In the 1880s the primary info seemed to be the ID and car #. Later other dimensions and weight were added and at different locations or in different configurations. I assume this was a federal requirement. Enlighten me please. 

         Two points, Steve. First, I don't think much if any lettering was a "federal" requirement, though in years subsequent to this list there were certain federally required items. Second, the various railroad associations (MCB, ARA, AAR) put together a variety of "industry consensus" standards and recommendations from time to time. MANY items of lettering that modelers tend to think of as required were actually only recommended, thus you can find exceptions among railroads.
          That said, most railroads did follow recommendations as they were issued.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Re: a sad modeling milestone

Rick Jesionowski
 

I still have a little bit left, don't know what I will do when I run out.  Although somebody gave me three bottles of Testors Decal Setting solution and I did use it once and it seemed to work fine.

Rick Jesionowski


Re: Lettering requirements

Eric Hansmann
 

Charlie,

 

The link Earl referenced is my file that was created to illustrate the lettering changes in the 1920s. I scanned pages from ORERs and combined the images into the two page PDF.

http://hansmanns.org/ARA_lettering_guidelines_1920_+_1927.pdf

 

Those are the ARA recommended lettering guidelines. There were slight changes to the 1927 guidelines later but I do not have those details. As you compare builder images of cars built in the late 1930s and into the 1940s, the lettering mostly follows the 1927 guidelines.

 

Eric

 

 

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

 


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2018 8:41 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Lettering requirements

 




Speaking of lettering, does anyone have ARA standard lettering drawings?   

Some CB&Q L&P drawings reference them instead of CB&Q alpha and numeric drawings.

Thanks

Charlie Vlk



Re: Lettering requirements

Charlie Vlk
 

Speaking of lettering, does anyone have ARA standard lettering drawings?   
Some CB&Q L&P drawings reference them instead of CB&Q alpha and numeric drawings.
Thanks
Charlie Vlk


Re: Lettering requirements

Earl Tuson
 

Allow me to add:

Eric Hansmann posted excerpts from the 1920 and 1926 revisions here:


The 1909 revision can be emphasized as well, as that introduced the Lettering-Number-Capacity-Light Weight grouping, typically applied at the left.

Earl Tuson


Re: Lettering requirements

Earl Tuson
 

Stephen Sandifer asked:

When did the lettering requirements on the sides of cars change? In the
1880s the primary info seemed to be the ID and car #. Later other dimensions
and weight were added and at different locations or in different
configurations. I assume this was a federal requirement. Enlighten me
please.
The Master Car Builder's Association, a voluntary trade group, issued Recommended Practices and Standards for various
aspects of lettering, marking, and stenciling beginning as early as 1893. Early on, new practices were added and
revisions made in a near continuous fashion: 1896, 1901, 1902, 1906, 1908, 1909, 1911, 1913... but more significant
changes were introduced in 1920 and 1926.

I have been working up a detailed account of these changes, which I anticipate adding as an appendix to complement a
similarly detailed account of B&M lettering practices during the 1900-1930 period.

Earl Tuson


Re: Lettering requirements

Tom Vanwormer
 

Steve,
Back in the 1880s & 90s it was dictated by the Master Car Builders Association.
Tom VanWormer
Monument CO

'Steve Sandifer' steve.sandifer@... [STMFC] wrote:

 

When did the lettering requirements on the sides of cars change? In the 1880s the primary info seemed to be the ID and car #. Later other dimensions and weight were added and at different locations or in different configurations. I assume this was a federal requirement. Enlighten me please.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 


March 31st ops on the Alma branch

Jared Harper
 

I  need one more person to fill out my Alma branch crew for Saturday, March 31st.

Jared Harper
420 Woodward Way
Athens, GA 30606
706-543-8821gg


Lettering requirements

Steve SANDIFER
 

When did the lettering requirements on the sides of cars change? In the 1880s the primary info seemed to be the ID and car #. Later other dimensions and weight were added and at different locations or in different configurations. I assume this was a federal requirement. Enlighten me please.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 


Re: a stronger solution

Tim O'Connor
 

John

Your comments about surfactants reminds me of Photo Flo [?] (or whatever it's
called)... Supposedly breaks up surface tension, but without any detergents.
I wonder what it's made of.

Tim O'Connor


Actually I added it to a bottle of Micro Sol.  I think I overestimated the volume left in the bottle before adding the butyl cellosolve and ended up with about a 20% solution.

It was used in several home and industrial cleaners.  I think Formula 409 was one and I know that the Whiteboard cleaner I bought at Staples is nearly as strong as the Paint Stripper (is is Rinse-Away or Wash-Away?).  I haven't bought a bottle of that stuff in 10 years now.  Just made up a fresh batch last night.

butyl cellosolve in water -- decal set

butyl cellosolve in 91% isopropyl alohol -- paint stripper or whiteboard cleaner

Just thinking, a drop of Dawn or some other surfactant might help break the surface tension and get the decals into cracks and crevices, but I think butyl cellosolve is a mild surfactant.  Hmmm???

-- John


Re: a stronger solution

John Sykes III
 

Actually I added it to a bottle of Micro Sol.  I think I overestimated the volume left in the bottle before adding the butyl cellosolve and ended up with about a 20% solution.

It was used in several home and industrial cleaners.  I think Formula 409 was one and I know that the Whiteboard cleaner I bought at Staples is nearly as strong as the Paint Stripper (is is Rinse-Away or Wash-Away?).  I haven't bought a bottle of that stuff in 10 years now.  Just made up a fresh batch last night.

butyl cellosolve in water -- decal set

butyl cellosolve in 91% isopropyl alohol -- paint stripper or whiteboard cleaner

Just thinking, a drop of Dawn or some other surfactant might help break the surface tension and get the decals into cracks and crevices, but I think butyl cellosolve is a mild surfactant.  Hmmm???

-- John



Re: a stronger solution

Bill Daniels <billinsf@...>
 

Way back in 1971, when I was in a Navy school here in the Bay Area, I bought a bottle of window cleaner that contained butyl celllusolve... best damn window cleaner I ever used. It easily dissolved the haze on the windshield of my new car. 

How much of the pure stuff did you add to the bottle of Champ's Decal solution? I believe that maybe a 5% solution in DI water may well do the trick. 
 
Bill Daniels, San Francisco, CA


On Thursday, February 22, 2018 4:43 PM, "johnsykesiii@... [STMFC]" wrote:


 
Hey, guiz!

My ears were burning.  MicroSet is the blue bottle, and is, in fact acetic acid.  Vinegar runs at 2-3% acetic acid.  I think MicroSet is a bit stronger (but not much).  You can buy ~30% acetic acid at a top notch photo shop.  Just ask for Kodak Short Stop concentrate (NOT indicator short stop - unless that's all they have) and dillute it down.  5% should work well without burning your skin.

The original Solvaset (Hobsco) was a butyl cellosolve solution*, but Walthers switched to a "safer" solvent . . . just before EPA listed it as a hazardous chemical.  I don't know the percentage, but I do know that the old Solvaset was stronger than MicroSol (red bottle).  So I think they may be in the 5 - 8% range.

I added some pure butyl cellosolve to a bottle of MicroSol and it dissolved a MicroScale decal completely!  Works good on Champs, however.

* chemical name for butyl cellosolve is 2-butoxyethanol.  Is available out of the "back room" of Sherwin Williams stores that cater to professional painters (can be used to slow down drying of lacquers).  Alas, gallons only.

-- John

P.S. Butyl cellosolve in 91% isopropyl alcohol is a good substitute for Chameleon or Rinse-Away paint stripper.  Be carefull, too much will craze some plastics, notably ABS.  I use about 10% with styrene or brass, but you might want to start lower -- say 5% and work your way up.



Re: a stronger solution

John Sykes III
 

Hey, guiz!

My ears were burning.  MicroSet is the blue bottle, and is, in fact acetic acid.  Vinegar runs at 2-3% acetic acid.  I think MicroSet is a bit stronger (but not much).  You can buy ~30% acetic acid at a top notch photo shop.  Just ask for Kodak Short Stop concentrate (NOT indicator short stop - unless that's all they have) and dillute it down.  5% should work well without burning your skin.

The original Solvaset (Hobsco) was a butyl cellosolve solution*, but Walthers switched to a "safer" solvent . . . just before EPA listed it as a hazardous chemical.  I don't know the percentage, but I do know that the old Solvaset was stronger than MicroSol (red bottle).  So I think they may be in the 5 - 8% range.

I added some pure butyl cellosolve to a bottle of MicroSol and it dissolved a MicroScale decal completely!  Works good on Champs, however.

* chemical name for butyl cellosolve is 2-butoxyethanol.  Is available out of the "back room" of Sherwin Williams stores that cater to professional painters (can be used to slow down drying of lacquers).  Alas, gallons only.

-- John

P.S. Butyl cellosolve in 91% isopropyl alcohol is a good substitute for Chameleon or Rinse-Away paint stripper.  Be carefull, too much will craze some plastics, notably ABS.  I use about 10% with styrene or brass, but you might want to start lower -- say 5% and work your way up.


Re: a stronger solution

frograbbit602
 

Tim,

May be adding Butyl Cellosolve to the current Micro-Sol to increase strength?  Just a thought if you are willing to experiment.

Lester Breuer


26621 - 26640 of 182166