Date   

Re: Decal setting solution options

Charles Peck
 

Well, I just wasn't sure. You guys had been talking about thick film decals, thin film decals, etc.
For years I've sanded decals AFTER applying them to get aged and faded effects.  I thought maybe
you were talking about doing something new and different I should get onto. 
You guys have been way ahead of me on so many things I always feel like I'm trying to catch up. 
Chuck Peck

On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 8:23 PM, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:
Exactly! ;)   You sand them BEFORE getting them wet.  I'd hate to try afterward!

-Bruce Smith
________________________________________
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...>
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 5:30 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Decal setting solution options

Chuck Peck asked:
"...which side of the decal did you sand? The print side or the film side?"

Tough to sand the film side without going through the paper...


Ben Hom








Re: Decal setting solution options

Bruce Smith
 

Exactly! ;) You sand them BEFORE getting them wet. I'd hate to try afterward!

-Bruce Smith
________________________________________
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Benjamin Hom <b.hom@att.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 5:30 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Decal setting solution options

Chuck Peck asked:
"...which side of the decal did you sand? The print side or the film side?"

Tough to sand the film side without going through the paper...


Ben Hom


Re: PRECISION SCALE

David North
 

Does anyone have an email address for PF&S please?

Cheers 

Dave North


Re: PRR Philadelphia Freight Terminal Photo

Jerry Breon
 

Hi Jim,

I believe this 1930 photo from the Hagley collection is of the same location as the photo recently posted by Bob Chaparro:


http://digital.hagley.org/islandora/object/islandora%3A2013235/datastream/OBJ/view


Many additional period photos of Port Richmond are found here:


http://digital.hagley.org/islandora/search/Port%20Richmond?type=dismax


Jerry Breon

Mooresville, NC


Re: PRR Philadelphia Freight Terminal Photo 
From: Jim Betz
Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 23:41:20 EDT 

Hi,

  Is there any one on this group who "knows Philly in the 30's/40's"?

  I counted about 40 tracks - just in this photo - and each of them holding
at least 35 cars ... and that's just the part we can see (how far do those
same tracks go after they 'dive out of the bottom of the frame'?).  Doing
the math that's over 1400 cars of capacity.  And did you notice how
dominant "the ubiquitous box car" is in this picture?  Pretty much "all"
40' single door cars ...

  Any speculations on the purpose of the building at the bottom of the
frame?  I'm guessing it is at least 2 stories tall (3?) and perhaps related to
loading/unloading cars?  As in why else would all of those tracks appear
to go in under the building.  Perhaps there is some kind of vehicle bridge
crossing all of those tracks out of the frame to the left (providing access
to the port)?  I'm sure they ran freight cars out onto the piers - but
wouldn't there have been trucks and other vehicles as well?

  There are a lot of slips for ships along the river.  This scene resembles
the Oakland container port today ... of course the Philly freight house
needed a lot more people - and time - to work the same amount of
freight ...

  Nobody mentioned this so I will ... must have been a noisy place!  All
those chuffs, whistles (train and ship), banging freight cars, winches
working in the ships, thumps when the loads hit the end of their
travel into/out of the ships, etc., etc., etc.  Smelly too (the good kind
or to paraphrase Apocalypse Now "I love the smell of steam in the
morning."

  VERY few people/men in the photo!  Perhaps it is a Sunday?  Also
very few vehicles on the roads such as the one behind that water
tank on stilts.  One parking area to the left is fairly full ... doesn't
seem like enough spots to support this big an area - or did the
workers get to the area on public transportation?
- Jim B.



Re: Decal setting solution options

Benjamin Hom
 

Chuck Peck wrote:
"Ben, I have on many occasions removed the decal film from the paper backing."

We all have. It's called soaking the decal.


Ben Hom


Re: Decal setting solution options

Charles Peck
 

Ben, I have on many occasions removed the decal film from the paper backing.
Chuck Peck

On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 4:30 PM, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:
Chuck Peck asked:
"...which side of the decal did you sand? The print side or the film side?"

Tough to sand the film side without going through the paper...


Ben Hom





Re: Decal setting solution options

Benjamin Hom
 

Chuck Peck asked:
"...which side of the decal did you sand? The print side or the film side?"

Tough to sand the film side without going through the paper...


Ben Hom


Re: Decal setting solution options

Charles Peck
 

Bruce, which side of the decal did you sand? The print side or the film side?
What grit?
Chuck Peck

On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Well, yeah, there is that technique! Of course, it probably also makes
them less opaque... which can be an advantage - pre-weathered lettering!

Sanding is what I will try with the Tichy sets I bought before I learned
how bad they are... urf.


Tim,

I have made some Champ decals thinner by sanding them ;)

Regards

Bruce Smith


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 10:24 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Decal setting solution options
 
Pete

I corresponded with Rich Meyer (Champ) many years ago and one subject was the
difference between letter press printing and silkscreen. He acknowledged that his
method of printing made it impossible to obtain extremely thin decals. But no
amount of soaking or cleaning will make them any thinner.

On the other hand I think your observation is valid. I always let them soak longer
than usual, and I'll try brushing the backside as you describe. In general they are
good decals, and sometimes they're very accurate too! ;-)

Tim O'


Here's an observation:  I remembered advice from years ago that Champ decals needed to soak in water without their backing sheet for some time to soak off the adhesive before application.  Further, I remembered turning the decals over in the water and gently scrubbing the back surface with a soft brush to remove any traces of adhesive.

I did this with the decals for the other side of the car and the decals settled down nicely with just Microset.  Perhaps there is an explanation for this.

Thanks
Pete



Re: PRECISION SCALE

Ted Schnepf
 

Hello,

I would imagine there will be some transition/learning time for the new owners.  I just received my last PSC parts order from PSC this past week.  It was well over $2000.00 in parts in a small box.

Ted


At 01:28 PM 6/2/2018, you wrote:
PF & S Railway Supply Inc
560 Ione Rd
Pasco,  WA  99301-8726  |  view map
(509) 266-4384
 
PF&S Railway Supply, Inc.
Pasco, WA  99301-8726
(509) 266-4384
 
 
Best regards,
 
Steve

Rails Unlimited
Ted Schnepf
railsunl@...
847-697-5353
126 Will Scarlet
Elgin, Ill. 60120
http://RailsUnlimited.ribbonrail.com/

Model Railroad Sales and Service with
a personal touch.
Books new and used.  HO and O scales.
DCC supplies. O scale urethane cars.
Photos and darkroom services.
Checks, cash (0%) or credit (secure server at web site 5% added).


Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: PRECISION SCALE

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

I called the this morning myself and got the same impression as Bill.

Bill Pardie



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
Date: 6/2/18 9:15 AM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] PRECISION SCALE

In the process of ordering ten packages of Retainer Valves and other detail parts I accidentally called the folks in Pasco and we chatted for a bit. They seem serious about the business.

My parts order to PSC came about ten days ago, more than enough tog et thru the transition.

Bill Welch


Re: Decal setting solution options

Tim O'Connor
 


Well, yeah, there is that technique! Of course, it probably also makes
them less opaque... which can be an advantage - pre-weathered lettering!

Sanding is what I will try with the Tichy sets I bought before I learned
how bad they are... urf.


Tim,

I have made some Champ decals thinner by sanding them ;)

Regards

Bruce Smith


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 10:24 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Decal setting solution options
 
Pete

I corresponded with Rich Meyer (Champ) many years ago and one subject was the
difference between letter press printing and silkscreen. He acknowledged that his
method of printing made it impossible to obtain extremely thin decals. But no
amount of soaking or cleaning will make them any thinner.

On the other hand I think your observation is valid. I always let them soak longer
than usual, and I'll try brushing the backside as you describe. In general they are
good decals, and sometimes they're very accurate too! ;-)

Tim O'


Here's an observation:  I remembered advice from years ago that Champ decals needed to soak in water without their backing sheet for some time to soak off the adhesive before application.  Further, I remembered turning the decals over in the water and gently scrubbing the back surface with a soft brush to remove any traces of adhesive.

I did this with the decals for the other side of the car and the decals settled down nicely with just Microset.  Perhaps there is an explanation for this.

Thanks
Pete


Re: PRECISION SCALE

Bill Welch
 

In the process of ordering ten packages of Retainer Valves and other detail parts I accidentally called the folks in Pasco and we chatted for a bit. They seem serious about the business.

My parts order to PSC came about ten days ago, more than enough tog et thru the transition.

Bill Welch


Re: Imbedded Photos Stacking Up

Nolan Hinshaw
 

On May 31, 2018, at 1:37 PM, David Payne via Groups.Io wrote:

[Puhtaytoe puhtahtoe, tuhmaytoe tuhmahto]

I blame it on the programmers who put the "new" comments at the top rather, than as I recall from years ago, the bottom of a reply.
The old top posting-bottom-posting argument predates the World Wide Web and the public internet[0]. It had little to do with coder preferences, more to to with netiquette. Regardless of the default location of the text cursor in a followup or reply, there was a customary action requested, and sometimes required of users, to edit and to position the text cursor appropriately in replies.

I think most responders don't THINK
and that's it, in a proverbial nutshell. Netiquette strongly insists on *thoughtful* follow-ups.

[0] the glory days of Usenet, even before the Great Renaming
--
Nolan Hinshaw, formerly mandible@netcom.com and AFU Game Warden


Re: PRECISION SCALE

Steve Haas
 

PF & S Railway Supply Inc

560 Ione Rd

Pasco,  WA  99301-8726  |  view map

(509) 266-4384

 

PF&S Railway Supply, Inc.

Pasco, WA  99301-8726

(509) 266-4384

 

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

Steve Haas

Snoqualmie, WA

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of WILLIAM PARDIE
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 10:28 AM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] PRECISION SCALE

 

 

I underdtamd that with the sale of Precision Scale that the import side went to one party and the castings went to a hobby shop in Washington.  Does anyone know the name of this shop?

 

Bill Pardie

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


PRECISION SCALE

WILLIAM PARDIE
 


I underdtamd that with the sale of Precision Scale that the import side went to one party and the castings went to a hobby shop in Washington.  Does anyone know the name of this shop?

Bill Pardie


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


Re: Decal setting solution options

Bruce Smith
 

​Tim,


I have made some Champ decals thinner by sanding them ;) 


Regards

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 10:24 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Decal setting solution options
 
Pete

I corresponded with Rich Meyer (Champ) many years ago and one subject was the
difference between letter press printing and silkscreen. He acknowledged that his
method of printing made it impossible to obtain extremely thin decals. But no
amount of soaking or cleaning will make them any thinner.

On the other hand I think your observation is valid. I always let them soak longer
than usual, and I'll try brushing the backside as you describe. In general they are
good decals, and sometimes they're very accurate too! ;-)

Tim O'


Here's an observation:  I remembered advice from years ago that Champ decals needed to soak in water without their backing sheet for some time to soak off the adhesive before application.  Further, I remembered turning the decals over in the water and gently scrubbing the back surface with a soft brush to remove any traces of adhesive.

I did this with the decals for the other side of the car and the decals settled down nicely with just Microset.  Perhaps there is an explanation for this.

Thanks
Pete


Re: Decal setting solution options

Tim O'Connor
 

Pete

I corresponded with Rich Meyer (Champ) many years ago and one subject was the
difference between letter press printing and silkscreen. He acknowledged that his
method of printing made it impossible to obtain extremely thin decals. But no
amount of soaking or cleaning will make them any thinner.

On the other hand I think your observation is valid. I always let them soak longer
than usual, and I'll try brushing the backside as you describe. In general they are
good decals, and sometimes they're very accurate too! ;-)

Tim O'


Here's an observation:  I remembered advice from years ago that Champ decals needed to soak in water without their backing sheet for some time to soak off the adhesive before application.  Further, I remembered turning the decals over in the water and gently scrubbing the back surface with a soft brush to remove any traces of adhesive.

I did this with the decals for the other side of the car and the decals settled down nicely with just Microset.  Perhaps there is an explanation for this.

Thanks
Pete


Re: Travels Of B&O N-34 Covered Hoppers

Tim O'Connor
 


Michigan was (and is) a source for silica sand and foundry sand and it could
have delivered a load to Duluth/Superior... or maybe even to the Algoma Central
via Sault Ste Marie? Or maybe it was just carrying cement - another commodity
produced in Michigan.




No speculation here ... a specific reference:  At the Chicagoland RPM last fall I bought a nice color print whose main subject was a Duluth South Shore & Atlantic RS-1 taken in the late 1950's at St. Ignace Michigan (where the Chief Wawatam car ferry connection was located).  But ... also in this photo is one of the B&O N-34 covered hoppers.  No clue as to what commodity would have brought it here but no missing that distinctive car.  And also in the photo ... one of the Warren Petroleum Co. propane tank cars!

Craig Wilson


Re: Travels Of B&O N-34 Covered Hoppers

Tim O'Connor
 


That makes sense - catalysts are very valuable and can travel very long distances.
Some are manufactured and there are also natural catalysts (e.g. zeolites).


There is a photo of a B&O N-34 covered hopper being unloaded at a refinery in Corpus Christi, Texas in the early 1940's.  The car was delivering silica - alumina catalyst to a fluid catalytic cracking unit at a refinery.  The photo is in an issue of Oil & Gas Journal from about 1943 or so.
A.T, Kott


Re: PRR Philadelphia Freight Terminal Photo

Jim Betz
 

Bruce and all,

  Thanks for identifying the location - I had attempted to find it and was looking too
far down river.
                                                                                                     - Jim B.

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