Date   

Kadee SR boxcar future release

Curt Fortenberry
 


Is the upcoming (February 2019) release of the SR 40' boxcar a new version?  I'm assuming it's using the new body style of the soon to be released ATSF 1947 style???

https://kadee.com/ca/futurecars.htm

 

Curt Fortenberry


ratios

Armand Premo
 

I am perhaps overly obsessed with freight car ratios by era ,by type and,by road.We pride ourselves with accurately detailed models,yet ignore the fact that the modeled car may not have existed in the period we are modeling Such things as number of wooden cars  to steel  cars in a consist for a given era.This may be trivial to many modelers,but if we profess.to be prototypical, I suggest that more consideration be given to ratios.Armand Premo


Re: DECAL SAVER

Craig Zeni
 

On Aug 7, 2018, at 12:06 AM, main@RealSTMFC.groups.io wrote:


7b. Re: DECAL SAVER
From: Tony Thompson <tony@signaturepress.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2018 00:05:48 EDT

BILL PARDIE wrote:

There is a Microscale product that is brushed on to older decals to hopefully prevent them from dissintergrating
when applied. Anyone recall what prduct this is?
It's called Liquid Decal Film and it totally works. Looks pretty goopy when you apply it, but it dries to a thin film. I use it all the time on older decals.
What Tony said. It's awful looking when applied, but dries very thin and works extremely well. Cleans up with isopropyl alcohol. Dan Kohlberg recommends using the stuff on his Alps-printed decals as they're on very thin film. I used it on some custom decals from the early 1980s and it made the decals quite usable.

Craig Zeni
Cary NC


Re: DECAL SAVER

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

No, but Testors has a similar product, “Decal Bonder” #9200, in a small spray can. I’ve used it successfully. Most hobby shops don’t carry it, but can order it.

Dan MItchell
==========

On Aug 7, 2018, at 12:02 AM, WILLIAM PARDIE <PARDIEW001@...> wrote:


There is a Microscale product that is brushed on to older decals to hopefully prevent them from dissintergrating
when applied.  Anyone recall what prduct this is?

Bill Pardie

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


Re: DECAL SAVER

steve_wintner
 

I managed to rescue some old decals by a simple coat of dullcote once or twice. YMMV. This product is probably a better choice, I guess, being formulated for the purpose.


Re: DECAL SAVER

Tony Thompson
 

BILL PARDIE wrote:

There is a Microscale product that is brushed on to older decals to hopefully prevent them from dissintergrating
when applied.  Anyone recall what prduct this is?

  It's called Liquid Decal Film and it totally works. Looks pretty goopy when you apply it, but it dries to a thin film. I use it all the time on older decals.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






DECAL SAVER

WILLIAM PARDIE
 


There is a Microscale product that is brushed on to older decals to hopefully prevent them from dissintergrating
when applied.  Anyone recall what prduct this is?

Bill Pardie

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


Re: Masking over Archer rivets

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 8/6/2018 12:17 PM, StephenK wrote:
masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid

    There is a product called "removable water-based resist" (by Jacquard).  I bought a bottle but haven't used it yet.  Do you have any experience with it?

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
SPROG User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: Sourceme of this vendoe

naptownprr
 

I would also like the name of this vendor.  Thanks.


Jim Hunter


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Jared Harper <harperandbrown@...>
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 4:22 PM
To: Proto-Layouts@groups.io; REALSTMFC@groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Source
 
At Collinsville I purchased a couple of large crates for a load in an open top car.  The two are  fine for a 50' flat car or gondola.  However, I would like to get a couple of more so I can use three for a load in  a mill gondola.  Unfortunately I do not remember the name of the vendor but he had a variety of load items.  Can anyone direct me to this vendor?

Thanks.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: Masking over Archer rivets

James E Kubanick
 

My experience is identical to that which Al Brown describes. I use Scalcoat and Tamiya tape, also.

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV


On Monday, August 6, 2018 3:27 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:


I have another tale about Archer rivets.  I added them to a boxcar.  First I sprayed the car with clear gloss.  Applied the rivets and it was a problem because the gloss hadn't dried completely.  But I was in a hurry and kept going.  After a week I started to proceed with more detailing of the car and noticed that the gloss had still not dried and I was leaving my fingerprints all over the sides.  WOWZER not good.  So I decided to strip it with Scale Coat stripper.  I have plenty of Archer rivets so I figured they would go with the stripper. I don't immerse, I lay the car on news print and paint the stripper to one side.  Let it sit then use a tooth brush and wash the paint off at the deep sink.   I use less stripper that way and it works just as well.  On some applications I have to do it 2 or 3 times a side.  
After I got the clear gloss off, the Archer Rivets were still there....who knew.
Not saying this would work every time but it did this time.
Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 3:17 PM, StephenK <thekays100@...> wrote:
I have used another method for masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid (the kind for the sink, not the machine).   This assumes a non-wood model.   Paint a layer of liquid over the area and let dry.  I usually put 2-3 coats on.   Paint, then wash off after the paint dries.   Note that I have never used this on Archer Rivets.   (I have never used Archer rivets....).  It's worth a try on a sample piece of plastic.

Steve Kay



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...



Source

Jared Harper
 

At Collinsville I purchased a couple of large crates for a load in an open top car.  The two are  fine for a 50' flat car or gondola.  However, I would like to get a couple of more so I can use three for a load in  a mill gondola.  Unfortunately I do not remember the name of the vendor but he had a variety of load items.  Can anyone direct me to this vendor?

Thanks.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: Hog Fuel

Mark Pierce <marcoperforar@...>
 

"Hog" was derived from the Norwegian word "hogde": meaning "chopped" in English.


Re: The Twelfth St. Louis Railroad Prototype Modeler's Meet

golden1014
 

Attendance was great but I think all the RPMs are up in attendance.  Naperville is, Cocoa's holding strong, the Minneapolis event is growing, and there are other start-ups.  RPM works.  

There were a lot of new products and announcements there.  The Kadee parts were cool.  I picked up a lot of parts from Yarmouth and Speedwitch, and the new Speedwitch cars coming are very cool.

John Golden
Jetlag, Germany


Re: Masking over Archer rivets

O Fenton Wells
 

I have another tale about Archer rivets.  I added them to a boxcar.  First I sprayed the car with clear gloss.  Applied the rivets and it was a problem because the gloss hadn't dried completely.  But I was in a hurry and kept going.  After a week I started to proceed with more detailing of the car and noticed that the gloss had still not dried and I was leaving my fingerprints all over the sides.  WOWZER not good.  So I decided to strip it with Scale Coat stripper.  I have plenty of Archer rivets so I figured they would go with the stripper. I don't immerse, I lay the car on news print and paint the stripper to one side.  Let it sit then use a tooth brush and wash the paint off at the deep sink.   I use less stripper that way and it works just as well.  On some applications I have to do it 2 or 3 times a side.  
After I got the clear gloss off, the Archer Rivets were still there....who knew.
Not saying this would work every time but it did this time.
Fenton Wells

On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 3:17 PM, StephenK <thekays100@...> wrote:
I have used another method for masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid (the kind for the sink, not the machine).   This assumes a non-wood model.   Paint a layer of liquid over the area and let dry.  I usually put 2-3 coats on.   Paint, then wash off after the paint dries.   Note that I have never used this on Archer Rivets.   (I have never used Archer rivets....).  It's worth a try on a sample piece of plastic.

Steve Kay




--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Georgia railroad boxcars

Eric Hansmann
 

Jim Brewer shares his work on a pair of Georgia Railroad rebuilt boxcars. It's the latest on the Resin Car Works blog.

http://blog.resincarworks.com/georgia-railroad-rebuilt-boxcars/



Eric Hansmann
RCW web guy


Re: Masking over Archer rivets

StephenK
 

I have used another method for masking small areas (headlight lenses, for example) that are difficult to mask.   I use dishwashing liquid (the kind for the sink, not the machine).   This assumes a non-wood model.   Paint a layer of liquid over the area and let dry.  I usually put 2-3 coats on.   Paint, then wash off after the paint dries.   Note that I have never used this on Archer Rivets.   (I have never used Archer rivets....).  It's worth a try on a sample piece of plastic.

Steve Kay


Re: Masking over Archer rivets

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 


Hi Al,
 
Thanks for the info on this useful result. I appreciate the level of detail you put into your message, this allows me to know the specific process that is proven to work.
 
Claus Schlund
 

----- Original Message -----
From: al_brown03
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2018 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Masking over Archer rivets

Painted a week later than planned. Encouraged by Craig's result, I applied Archers to bare plastic, gloss-coated over them, painted over the gloss-coat. The paint was Scalecoat II; I let it cure for a week. Masked over the paint with Tamiya tape, and painted a second color. Unmasked, and the Archers were A-O-K; they were under the tape about three hours. 

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


Re: Masking over Archer rivets

al_brown03
 

Painted a week later than planned. Encouraged by Craig's result, I applied Archers to bare plastic, gloss-coated over them, painted over the gloss-coat. The paint was Scalecoat II; I let it cure for a week. Masked over the paint with Tamiya tape, and painted a second color. Unmasked, and the Archers were A-O-K; they were under the tape about three hours. 

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


Re: Intermountain 40899

pennsylvania1954
 

Doug--We appreciate your coming on here and representing Intermountain with an encouraging heads-up.

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Re: Intermountain 40899

Bill Welch
 

A couple of thoughts Doug, the first of which I mentioned to Gene F. at the Collinsville RPM: Please keep Undecorated kits in stock. I realize this is a small part of the market but people do still like modify, paint, decal and I think this strategy buys all sorts of goodwill for no cost.

Number Two: Please consider cutting the body tooling for the 10-ft IH car for cars with 7-ft and 8-foot doors. This would enlarge the number of factory painted and assembled models you could release and create more fodder for those that like to "roll their own."

Respectfully,
Bill Welch

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