Date   

Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Stupid hand brake question

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Gang;

A further point is that this arrangement of cars without their own individually operable brake, was obviously not ideal. PRR for one, had flats and gons which had: a) removable brake staffs, b) rotatable (and still operable) brake staffs in the USRA-design G25, and didn't much like either. This led to a long discussion of what might be better, and resulted in the adoption of pump brakes, and sideways-mounted vertical wheel handbrakes, mounted on the left yoke, an elegant solution for the gons. Many of the later flat cars had two sets of brake gear and hand brakes on either end, also a deal allowing at least one set operable when needing to knock one down onto the deck. See classes G26, G27, G28, G30, G31, F25, F28, F29, etc., if you are interested in the progression.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Guy Wilber via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, October 5, 2018 3:55 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Stupid hand brake question


Dennis wrote:

“Point remains, however, either requirement unifies the load and idler(s) into a single unit, which does have an operable hand brake.”

We are in full agreement!

Guy Wilber
Colfax, California


Wanted two kits

Chuck Cover
 

Group,

I am looking for two kits:
Westerfield #3652 ATSF BX6
Sunshine #67.5  C&O 44000-44999 gondola

Please contact off list.  Thanks

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM


Re: Ulrich GN GS Gondola

rwitt_2000
 

Garth,

Thanks for the reference to the photo of the GN GS with heap shields. - Bob Witt


Re: Ulrich GN GS Gondola

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Good Friends,

As I contemplated how to add the piping and brake levers (AB brakes, as upgraded) to my small collection of Ulrich GS gondolas, I thought to look in my collection of Gregg Train Shed Cyclopedias. I didn't find any help with the piping and rod arrangement (poop!), but to my surprise found a builder's photo of the GN car with the heap shield ends. It is on page 239 of the 1940 Car Builders' Cyclopedia, or Gregg reprint No. 5 with the same pagination.

The GN car is numbered 75899, from series 75500-75999 (Pressed Steel Car Co., 7-37). It is similar to the Ulrich cars, with two major differences. The Ulrich models depict (somewhat crudely, but consider the model's age) the proprietary Enterprise link arrangement. This tends to hide the sloped part of the lower car body. The GN car appears to have simple chains winding around a rod, making the visible part of the winding mechanism appear more delicate and opening up the sloped area to view. The second difference is that the GN prototype has a brake gear box and its brake platform is mounted below the lower of the two horizontal stiffening ribs on the end. The Ulrich model has the brake platform mounted above that rib, and it has an upright rod and wheel. The Ulrich GN model thus doesn't look much like its supposed prototype (barring a lot of work with a Dremel). The Ulrich cars with flat ends and the staff brake are much closer to SP G-50-9 through G-50-12 from the 1920s, which is really what I want. The GN car can stay in the hobby store display case.

That still doesn't solve how the brake rods and piping ran. I wonder if there is a wreck photo of one of these cars tipped over. Any ideas?

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


Re: BREX 76252 upgrade

Peter Ness
 

Very nice upgrade, Lester and good blog as well. I think you are taking the better approach to do the upgrades before operating on the layout.  I have placed far too many cars in service that I intend to upgrade when I get a round “tuit”.

 

Peter Ness

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Lester Breuer
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 12:30 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] BREX 76252 upgrade

 

I keep building  to reduce the inventory so another blog post.   I chose BREX  76252 steel refrigerator, a 5th Avenue Car Shops/Accurail kit to assemble and upgrade.  Upgrade includes Kadee running board, installing wire grabs and ladder rungs and other details on sides.  Adding and improving  “B” end details and underbody.   The photos and writeup are on my blog I started to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following:

 

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/

Lester Breuer


Re: unbuilt Westerfield HO kits F/S

Gary McMills
 

Hi Hugh,

I would be interested in Santa Fe stock cars.

thanks,

Gary McMills


 

On 2018-10-08 22:51, Hugh Guillaume via Groups.Io wrote:

I have fifty-nine unbuilt Westerfield HO kits for sale.  $25 each plus actual postage to US address.  I will send a list via e-mail: mguill1224@...   Hugh T Guillaume


Re: Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

Ken Roth
 

Scalecoat silver with a bit of gray or white works well for me.  OR, if you still have any, the very best is Floquil Platinum Mist.  No grain problem with these.  Ken Roth


Re: Old Ulrich / Walthers GS Gondola

Staffan Ehnbom
 

Brian,
Of the three GN schemes on the Trainworx site only the one with the small sans serif lettering road name is correct for 1953. Should probably have a black background to the goat in the herald, car color mineral red. The slant serif road name wasn't introduced until 1956.

Staffan Ehnbom


On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 6:16 AM Brian Termunde via Groups.Io <GCRDS=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Tony,
No argument from me, and while I would be happy to have the correct models, considering the only 40 - 46 foot gons we N Scalers had were those ancient Atlas and Botchedmann gons, I have few complaints. Again, while I would prefer to have accurate models, these are better then none at all.

But I do have a question about the the GN gons, while even if not correct for that particular body, which, if any of those paint schemes would be appropriate for my 1953 era railroad.

TIA!

Brian Termunde
Midvale, UT


Re: Old Ulrich / Walthers GS Gondola

Brian Termunde
 

Tony,
No argument from me, and while I would be happy to have the correct models, considering the only 40 - 46 foot gons we N Scalers had were those ancient Atlas and Botchedmann gons, I have few complaints. Again, while I would prefer to have accurate models, these are better then none at all.

But I do have a question about the the GN gons, while even if not correct for that particular body, which, if any of those paint schemes would be appropriate for my 1953 era railroad.

TIA!

Brian Termunde
Midvale, UT


unbuilt Westerfield HO kits F/S

 

I have fifty-nine unbuilt Westerfield HO kits for sale.  $25 each plus actual postage to US address.  I will send a list via e-mail: mguill1224@...   Hugh T Guillaume


Morrell Reefer Series Number Question

Nelson Moyer
 

I put this question out on the bullshippers group, but nobody responded, so I’m trying it with a larger audience.

 

I’m ready to decal Sunshine 15.1, Mather 42 ft. reefer lettered for Morrell. The information in the instructions is confusing at best as it states that the series represented by the kit was built starting in 1947 and continuing to 1955. The decal sheet supports road numbers 9054, 9508, and 9612, and the built dates supported are 1-48 and 1- 43 !? The Sunshine instructions state that the series started with 9200, but they provide a decal for road number 9054!?

 

I have photos of 9515, 9525, and 9562 in the original paint scheme, plus several other road numbers in the new paint scheme. Early cars in this series got the Equipco hand brakes with the horizontal brake wheel, while the rest got hand brakes with vertical brake wheels. The kit supports the latter, since that particular Equipco hand brake isn’t available. After building this kit, I understand why it was discontinued in 1992.

 

My question is, what are the build dates for the three road numbers supported by the decals? Hopefully, somebody has a record of the series numbers and build dates. If I can finish this car, I plan to take it to the Chicagoland RPM for the 25th anniversary exhibit. I’m pretty sure it is one of the earliest Sunshine kits likely to be displayed.

 

Nelson Moyer

 


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Dave Parker
 

Based on recent experience, and current info on the webpage, I don't think that is an accurate description of how Highball now prints custom decals.  I believe that all "everyday" printing is now done with an OHKI CMYKW laser printer (1200 dpi).

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA


Re: Old Ulrich / Walthers GS Gondola

Tony Thompson
 

Brian Termunde wrote:

No, the Trainworx Gon is certainly longer than either MT's or Atlas's 42' gon's. I won't guarantee that's 46', but definitely not 40' - 42'

      In that case, the model is wrongly painted for most of the roads they show on their website, all of which had nominally 40-foot 7-post GS gondolas.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






New eBay listings

Clark Propst
 

I've listed two F&C assembled freight cars on eBay. A MP panel side gon and a CV auto box.  If interested here are the links.

 


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Peter Ness
 

From Jim Abbot’s web site;

 

Highball Graphics Decals are printed using a Kodak Polychrome Graphics First Check proofer. This uses the same Micro Dry Technology as the Alps MD Series printers. I use a high quality Water Slide decal paper from Microscale Industries. Although the decal film is thin, it's very strong, and can be hard to work with in big sections. The end result is well worth the extra time applying them. Be very careful to avoid contact with the surface of the decal with tweezers or other hard objects as they can scratch very easily. After the model is finish coated you won't have to worry about it. I Suggest using luke warm water as hot water activates the paper too quickly and can make the decals hard to handle. I prefer using Walthers Solvaset for a setting solution although any commercial decal set will work. Because of the characteristics of the ink itself it will not shrink down over details as well as Silk Screened decals. I suggest gently using a soft pencil eraser to help stretch the decals down over small details but only after the decal has initially set up. Then you can hit it again with decal set. They may take some getting used too but I think you will be very pleased with the results. If you have any questions at all please feel free to ask.

 

Jim made some New Haven TOFC trailer decals for me almost 10 years ago and I’ve also used the New Haven MOW decals.  Neither were pixelated like a dot matrix printer. YMMV.

 

Peter Ness

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 2:43 PM
To: realstmfc@groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

 


Does anyone know if Highball has improved his decals? I bought some a number
of years ago, and they are very "pixelated" - appear to be done on a computer
printer. If Ted Culotta is having Cartograf decals made, I will be happy with those!

Tim O'




Hi Tim,
I’m not doing decals, lol.  This will most likely be an F&C kit and my experience with their decals is they are not the most desirable in any case. I don’t know what Microscale or others offer for BAR decals, but I think Highball graphics offers what you’re looking for.
http://mgdecals.com/F-250.htm
 
Knowing that, if you’re in for one, please reply with an address.  This is no commitment at this time until we hit 50 kits and I will keep folks posts as we progress.
 
Regards,
Peter
 

I'm interested in a kit, especially if you can do repaint decals. :-)

Tim O'



I am looking for interest in a resin kit of the New Haven 45000-45099, BAR 2000-2299 40ft
Steel Plug Door Insulated Box Cars (XIH) built by Pacific Car and Foundry in 1953 for both
railroads. While these cars wore several schemes over the years, they are most noted for
the popular red, white and blue State of Maine scheme. This will be a one-piece body kit.

If you are interested, please email me at prness@... Please use the title of this
topic as the subject of your email. Also please include your name, mailing address and the
quantity of kits you will purchase. 50 orders should do the trick. For those who reply
I'll keep you posted of progress towards the goal.

Thanks for your help and support.

Peter Ness


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

Tim O'Connor
 

Accupaint made both ALUMINUM, and ARTIFICIAL ALUMINUM - both excellent colors.
I think they are still offered by TRUCOLOR. (The "artificial" color is what you
see on UPS trailers, and older non-stainless steel Amtrak passenger cars, and
many SP ex-Daylight passenger cars.)

Tim O'

I don't know there is a good Aluminum paint out there
Peter Ness
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: Old Ulrich / Walthers GS Gondola

Brian Termunde
 

No, the Trainworx Gon is certainly longer than either MT's or Atlas's 42' gon's. I won't guarantee that's 46', but definitely not 40' - 42'

Brian Termunde
Midvale, UT


Re: Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

Peter Ness
 

Bill,

 

I don’t know there is a good Aluminum paint out there, but that’s a great looking model!  Thank you for sharing the photos, and I like the concept of changing the paint-outs on both sides.

 

Peter Ness  

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 12:11 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

 

Although I have been collecting photos of these Georgia cars for years it was the acquisition of a 1956 Jack Parker photo of #19733 with a good shot of their welded roof that gave me the confidence to build a new model to replace a much earlier build. I recently finished painting my Georgia USRA 50-ton Steel rebuild. Recently I finished painting it and have now applied the decals. I was not pleased with any of the Acrylic Aluminum paints I experimented with but despite its grainy look I liked the dull look of what you see here. I painted the black first and then mask it for the Aluminum. It seems like no matter the masking job I do, some of those pesky metallic granules sneak under the mask so then I mask the Aluminum and spayed more black. Next I attached the Speedwitch doors, door guides and the scratch built ladders I had already painted. The aluminum and black effectively hide the many harvested rivets required to properly model these cars but hopefully weathering will eventually bring them back.

Speedwitch has decals specifically for this car but I had to also use their Atlanta & West Point/Western Railway of Alabama set because the Georgia set does not have the “XM” nor does it have the numeral “7” or enough of “3’s” to do car #19733. I have several photos of these cars in this scheme and some seem to show black “paint outs” while in others these appear to be boxcar red. I decided to do one side with black and the other with BCR. There was also some variation for the “XM’ stenciling location so I did it differently on each side. After the flat coat is applied I will install black Kadee bracket grabs that have been dulled by media blasting. The last item to go on will be the scratch-built black Wood running board. Before installation I will sand it lightly and carefully to chip or wear some of the black paint from it.

If you are curious you can search “georgia usra rebuild” to see photos under construction and in primer.


Bill Welch


Re: Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

Tim O'Connor
 

Bill

Duh, it never occured to me to use clear coat - instead I always sprayed the
edge of the tape with the color being protected! But clear makes more sense!

Tim


I little trick that I learned years ago is to shoot at clear coat over the model after  masking.  When dry shoot the second color. This really seals the edge of the tape and provides a very crisp edge.

Bill Pardie

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Tim O'Connor
 


Does anyone know if Highball has improved his decals? I bought some a number
of years ago, and they are very "pixelated" - appear to be done on a computer
printer. If Ted Culotta is having Cartograf decals made, I will be happy with those!

Tim O'



Hi Tim,
Im not doing decals, lol.  This will most likely be an F&C kit and my experience with their decals is they are not the most desirable in any case. I dont know what Microscale or others offer for BAR decals, but I think Highball graphics offers what youre looking for.
http://mgdecals.com/F-250.htm
 
Knowing that, if youre in for one, please reply with an address.  This is no commitment at this time until we hit 50 kits and I will keep folks posts as we progress.
 
Regards,
Peter
 

I'm interested in a kit, especially if you can do repaint decals. :-)

Tim O'



I am looking for interest in a resin kit of the New Haven 45000-45099, BAR 2000-2299 40ft
Steel Plug Door Insulated Box Cars (XIH) built by Pacific Car and Foundry in 1953 for both
railroads. While these cars wore several schemes over the years, they are most noted for
the popular red, white and blue State of Maine scheme. This will be a one-piece body kit.

If you are interested, please email me at prness@... Please use the title of this
topic as the subject of your email. Also please include your name, mailing address and the
quantity of kits you will purchase. 50 orders should do the trick. For those who reply
I'll keep you posted of progress towards the goal.

Thanks for your help and support.

Peter Ness

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

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