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Re: Floquil Glaze (reconstitute Floquil paints)
Jeff Coleman
I have used Floquil Glaze as others here, for a simi-gloss finish. I have had it along with Floquil High Gloss setup in bottles. But all my other Floquil is fine, have 200+ bottles and some in the old style square bottles. Been using Xylene for thinner for 25 yrs. Jeff Coleman
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 11:24 AM Gene Green via Groups.Io <genegreen1942=yahoo.com@groups.io wrote:
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Re: Floquil Glaze (reconstitute Floquil paints)
Gene Green <genegreen1942@...>
Lester, thanks for the information on your experience reconstituting Floquil. I have a stash of about 80 bottles so you provided information I can potentially use. Gene Green Out in the west Texas town of El Paso
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Re: Substitute for Blacken-It
Jake Schaible
A bit pricey for what is obviously a copper selenium bath for cold temp blackening. For best results, make sure parts are clean and oil free.
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Re: Floquil Glaze
Jerry Michels
Hi James, I have used Clear Coat as a top coat also. Jerry
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Re: Floquil Glaze
Jerry Michels
well they do say visual acuity worsens with age.. touche Tim !☺
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Re: Floquil Glaze
Jerry, I have used Floquil Glaze as a base coat for decals and Clear Clear as a topcoat as the latter seems to have a very good ability to hide the edges of thick film decals
On Friday, November 2, 2018, 5:47:26 PM EDT, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
Jerry Michels wrote > Curious Tim, I have returned paint to the bottle for over 40 years, and it has never been a problem. well they do say visual acuity worsens with age... Once I began using Scalecoat and Accupaint I never went back to Floquil for overall paint jobs. I use it for roofs, underframes, weathering, hopper car and gondola interiors, structures, and washes, but never when I need a glossy smooth finish. YMMV. Tim -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Substitute for Blacken-It
Bill Welch
With Blacken-It no longer around, here is a substitute: https://www.megahobby.com/products/photo-etch-burnishing-fluid-ammo-of-mig-jimenez.html
Mind-boggling line of modeling finishing products. Bill Welch
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Re: Floquil Glaze
Jerry Michels wrote > Curious Tim, I have returned paint to the bottle for over 40 years, and it has never been a problem. well they do say visual acuity worsens with age... Once I began using Scalecoat and Accupaint I never went back to Floquil for overall paint jobs. I use it for roofs, underframes, weathering, hopper car and gondola interiors, structures, and washes, but never when I need a glossy smooth finish. YMMV. Tim -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Re: Floquil Glaze
Jerry Michels
Curious Tim, I have returned paint to the bottle for over 40 years, and it has never been a problem. Some of the original jars I have with "returned" pain is still good after at least 20 years. In fact I used some just this week. To the question, Floquil Glaze can be added to a paint mix to give a gloss finish, or can be used on its own, sprayed on a surface to give a gloss surface for decals, and also used to blend in decals as an overcoat. Glaze is a bit yellowish. Floquil also made a similar product called Crystal Clear, that was completely clear. I suppose it might have been an improvement to Glaze, but have no factual basis that is was. It is rather interesting to be discussing Floquil's history and uses. Kind of makes me realize I have been in this hobby a long, long time! Jerry Michels
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RCW kit re-intros
Eric Hansmann
Resin Car Works announces the re-introduction of a couple kits. These have been out of production but are available again. More details can be found in the latest blog post. http://blog.resincarworks.com/kit-re-introductions/
Eric Hansmann RCW web guy
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Re: Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
On 11/2/2018 7:00 AM, Matt Goodman
via Groups.Io wrote:
Good to here that the screw forming and screw verticalness issues aren’t widespread. I have
a black roof AB brake car and I would describe my truck
screws as washer offset.
I don't think as bad as the picture
but with 4x glasses it's offset. Working on painting
.088 wheelsets currently with other projects. -- Jon Miller For me time stopped in 1941 Digitrax Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User SPROG User NMRA Life member #2623 Member SFRH&MS
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WP PS-1 Boxcar
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Good Friends,
I am scanning up my father's and my railroad slides before the physical images go to a museum. As I was working on the enclosed image of a WP maintenance of way boxcar, I made an interesting discovery. The car is riding on what once were Chrysler trucks. The outboard snubbing mechanism is gone, but the brackets are still attached to the truck frame. Some background: This car was from WP series 20801-20820, the first 20 cars in the larger series 20801-21400. These were PS-1 boxcars delivered in 1951. The first 20 cars were equipped by Pullman with Compartmentizer adjustable bulkheads and Chrysler trucks for high-value fragile merchandise loads (probably for Montgomery Wards in Oakland). The bodies, ends and roofs were silver-colored, and a huge orange feather ran the length of the car, crossing the door, plus the "Rides Like a Feather" slogan was in the upper right corner. In 1952 the class was renumbered as 19501-19520. Also in 1952, 22 additional cars were drawn at random from the main series and returned to Pullman for adding Compartmentizers. These cars originally came with black car cement on the ends and roofs, to which the silver paint wouldn't stick. They came back to the WP with same black ends and roofs, and also retained their ASF A-3 "Ride Control" trucks. This later group was renumbered 19521-19542. Around 1958 the silver paint was beginning to fail, and the whole class was repainted boxcar red, with a diagonal orange feather covering most of the panel to the right of the doors, and the "Rides Like a Feather" slogan below the feather at the lower right. Except for WP 3401-3410, similar 8'-door cars with DF-2 loaders, these were the only WP 40' cars to carry this scheme. These two classes of boxcars were among the last 40' boxcars on the WP, as the company bought 50' cars heavily beginning in 1954. Fast forward to about 1980. Most of WP's remaining 40' boxcars were stretched, sold or scrapped by the 1970s, and the few remaining went into maintenance service. I came upon this car in Keddie, California on one of my last WP photo trips up the Feather River Canyon before I was posted to the East Coast by the Coast Guard. I couldn't resist a photo, but only now almost 40 years later did I notice the odd trucks while I was photoshopping out some processing debris. Yours Aye, Garth Groff 🏴
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Re: Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
Matt Goodman
Good to here that the screw forming and screw verticalness issues aren’t widespread. By way of a visual description to go along with the cam lobe references, see attached.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Matt Goodman Columbus, Ohio
On Nov 1, 2018, at 1:56 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:
Matt Goodman wrote:
I checked my model carefully after reading this, and found no such problem on mine. I pulled out the screws and they look fine. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@... Publishers of books on railroad history
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Re: Floquil Glaze (reconstitute Floquil paints)
Lester Breuer
Denny I do not know if Floquil glaze will reconstitute Floquil paints. I added it to existing colors or sprayed it over Floquil colors to get a gloss base for decal application. To reconstitute old Floquil pints I used an ultrasonic cleaner (UC). The paint had to have a little thinner left in the bottle. I would start by just putting the old bottle of paint in the UC for a period of time to see if usable. If not I would start adding an eye dropper of Diosol (since off the market my mix 50% xylene and 50% toluene) and back into the UC. I would repeat this process until I could get it usable. I define usable as being able to brush the paint. At times I was able to get the paint back to spray quality if strained through a nylon stocking. It took time and patience to get it done; however, if it was the only bottle I had left it was worth the effort.
Hopes this helps. Lester Breuer
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Re: Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
Eric Hansmann
Yesterday I took a closer look at the Pre-War version and noticed the running board end supports need attention. These details are crammed into place on the model and the angle of the support is lost. A builder image of the car reveals a longer support board under the ends of the running board than what is typically seen. I think the model detail is a bit to long and the support angle is minimized. I hope a little adjustment will make this better. I have yet to remove the trucks or couplers for upgrades. Eric Hansmann
On November 1, 2018 at 9:46 PM James SANDIFER <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:
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Re: Floquil Glaze
Mark Vinski
I believe glaze was meant to be added to Floquil paint to produce a glossy finish I have used it that way.
Mark Vinski
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Re: Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
Steve SANDIFER
I also replaced the coupler. The Kadee copy used the old style Kadee spring and mine would not center dependably. I put whisker couplers in and that problem was solved. I also painted the wheels first thing – why don’t Mfg. blacken wheelsets? I had none of the problems you describe with trucks or truck screws.
J. Stephen Sandifer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Matt Goodman via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 11:51 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Rapido NP boxcar, K brake question
I just picked up my pre-war model a couple of days ago. I'll paint the wheels and truck side frames, and probably replace the couplers with #58s. As Eric mentioned, the existing couplers are metal Kadee #5 replicas, with metal knuckle springs. While I'm mildly disappointed that Rapido chose to use these instead of the path Tangent has taken, I did appreciate the rust color (which included the "air" hose).
I had to do some tuning to the truck mounting. One truck would rock toward one side of the car body, but not the other; the other truck would rock toward toward the car center, but not toward the coupler.
The root cause was twofold. The first issue was with the mounting screws themselves - which were poorly formed. The screw head and washer are a single part, but the washer is not concentric with the head - think of a cam lobe. I fiddled with the location of the lobe until I found a location that allowed the truck to rock equally in most directions.
The second issue was one of the screws was driven in crooked. The fiddling described above also mitigated this issue.
Although both were easily overcome, these two quality issues were disappointing given the cost of the model. The screw shape issue especially seems like it would be easy to fix - better screws!
Matt Goodman
On Friday, October 26, 2018, 12:25:16 PM EDT, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:
Yes. I got a four-pack of the Pre-War cars. Three of them will be sent to others modeling the 1920s and 1930s. Out of the box, these models look downright amazing.
In a quick overview I noticed a couple of things.
- The models have a 1937 reweigh date. NP lettering was spartan so a paint out and a 1925 or 1926 reweigh date will be an easy fix. - The stencil on the air reservoir on the brake casting is upside down, which made me chuckle. It's hard to read as it is. - The model has two grabs on the left end of the car sides. The uppermost grab will need to be removed for a pre-1930 appearance. Rapido only had one basic version made and used different paint and lettering styles. - The models are equipped with a metal Kadee-like coupler that I will change out to a preferred Accurail Proto:HO coupler. - The wheels will need to be painted.
I was told at RPM Chicagoland that the basic car represents the rebuilt version so the sheathing is not reflective of the original center-bead board. This is difficult to see at a 12-inch view. It will be a pretty quick addition to my 1926 fleet.
Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro, TN
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io ] On Behalf Of Alexander Schneider Jr
I received mine, and I have a question about the K brake system. I don’t see any connection between the lever on the “A” end and the rest of the system. My 1928 Car Builders Cyclopedia shows a connecting rod between the two levers. I can’t imagine it would be between the underframe channels. Any ideas?
Alex Schneider
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New Kadee Parts
Bill Welch
I notice that Kadee has now added their two new Running board types, Morton and Gypsum, to their website. Will someone please remind me of the new brake wheels they are also doing?
Thank you, Bill Welch
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Re: Floquil Glaze
Because Floquil is an enamel, it can slowly polymerize in the bottle... this is what causes the graininess. It also happens to acrylic enamels. In each case the best way to prevent it is to measure out the paint you're going to use, and throw out any left overs, and never return any paint to the original bottle. But, absent those problems, then adding thinner should make it flow again. A couple drops of retarder helps too. When the paint gets grainy I keep them but only as brush paint and washes for weathering. Never try to airbrush them. It won't be pretty! Tim O'
I have a stash of this material, which at one time was identified as Floquil paint without any pigment, i.e. only the carrier and solvent. Does anyone know whether or not this is true? --
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Floquil Glaze
Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
I have a stash of this material, which at one time was identified as Floquil paint without any pigment, i.e. only the carrier and solvent. Does anyone know whether or not this is true?
If so, I am wondering whether or notGlaze could be used to reconstitute Floquil paints that seemed to be too reduced by evaporation (how does that happen when the lid is on right….?). I have been successful in some instances by just adding solvent (lacquer thinner or Diosol), but too often this ends up with a degraded grainy paint. I am very much aware that older Floquil paints craze styrene. Of course, I could simply try and see what happens. I find that the older more colorful Floquil paints still have their good uses. Denny Denny S. Anspach, MD Sacramento, CA 95864
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