Date   

Re: Vallejo Paint Colors

Scott H. Haycock
 

Harbor Freight has one for $7.99.


https://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-cleaning-bottle-68154.html


Scott Haycock
Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm
ent

On January 25, 2019 at 9:12 PM Bruce Griffin <bdg1210@...> wrote:

Group,

Let me add one more thing to this conversation about airbrushing freight cars. As I stated I haven’t enjoyed this aspect of the hobby in the past. I watched a video on Trainmaster.TV about airbrushing and found one tool that made the whole process cleaner and easier for me, a spray out pot for $24. Iwata-Medea Universal Spray Out Pot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYN6ESG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lP9sCbG7DJRVK

Any brand should work and it just replaces spraying out excess paint and running thinner through the air brush easier and cleaner versus spraying it into the booth or onto scrap material. That was enough to make it much more enjoyable to clean the airbrush or change the color.  I think having a gravity fed air brush helped as I can squeeze a few drops of paint into the cup and see its viscosity without removing the jar.  Taking Joe Fugate’s advice from the MRH PDF I now really like the squeeze bottles that Vallejo uses and you can buy separately for other paints.  Adds ease and cleanliness for me. I think that is another reason I enjoy the Vallejo products. Airbrushing even a small part now only takes ten minutes total. It is just a preference.  

Thanks for the positive response to my posts about paint colors.  I will post more as I buy more paints and add some colors from my stash of other brands.  

Best Regards,
Bruce Griffin
Ashland, MD  
 


Re: Vallejo Paint Colors

Bruce Griffin
 

Group,

Let me add one more thing to this conversation about airbrushing freight cars. As I stated I haven’t enjoyed this aspect of the hobby in the past. I watched a video on Trainmaster.TV about airbrushing and found one tool that made the whole process cleaner and easier for me, a spray out pot for $24. Iwata-Medea Universal Spray Out Pot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYN6ESG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lP9sCbG7DJRVK

Any brand should work and it just replaces spraying out excess paint and running thinner through the air brush easier and cleaner versus spraying it into the booth or onto scrap material. That was enough to make it much more enjoyable to clean the airbrush or change the color.  I think having a gravity fed air brush helped as I can squeeze a few drops of paint into the cup and see its viscosity without removing the jar.  Taking Joe Fugate’s advice from the MRH PDF I now really like the squeeze bottles that Vallejo uses and you can buy separately for other paints.  Adds ease and cleanliness for me. I think that is another reason I enjoy the Vallejo products. Airbrushing even a small part now only takes ten minutes total. It is just a preference.  

Thanks for the positive response to my posts about paint colors.  I will post more as I buy more paints and add some colors from my stash of other brands.  

Best Regards,
Bruce Griffin
Ashland, MD  
 


Re: Ertl Boxcar

Douglas Harding
 

I agree with Ben's comments. I would add the roof pops off easily, unless someone glued it on. But even then a knife blade should pop it up.

The loads Ertl sold are plastic and add almost no weight. The cars without loads have a removable floor of a light gray color. The cars need weights and metal wheelsets. The trucks often need attention with the truck tuner tool.

Couplers are held in place with plastic pin set in the coupler box cover. The cover pries off, again if someone did not glue it in place.

These are nice cars

Doug Harding
www.iowacentralrr.org

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2019 7:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Ertl Boxcar

Bob Chaparro wrote::
"A few months ago I picked-up a new-in-box Ertl boxcar, a purchased based on the two dollar list price. This is the first Ertl car I have ever owned.

I just open the box to work over the car and noticed the box itself said "50' USRD Double Sheathed Boxcar". The car is a forty-foot car, so that seemed a bit strange."

An obvious typo. It's actually a pretty nice model of the 40 ft USRA DS boxcar.


"Upon further inspection it appears that the body is a one-piece casting. Ends, sides, roof and floor appear to be all one piece so adding weight may be a big problem.

My question is, am I missing something about how to open up the car body or is in indeed a one-piece casting?"

The roof is a separate piece and should pop off with little effort.


"And when I held the car I could tell it was under-weight. A check on the digital scale said it was 1.55 ounces. That's considerably under-weight."

These cars were marketed along with a line of boxcar loads mounted on false floors. The idea was modelers would buy the loads to go with the cars, pop off the roofs, and drop in the loads, which would make up some weight.


"Perhaps I should just resell the car, given all the criticisms I seen on this list about body and lettering inaccuracies for Ertl cars."

Seriously? The lettering is poorly researched (thanks, Hundman), but I'm not sure where you're getting the idea that the body is inaccurate. The grabs, while oversized, are easy to replace (as are the cast steel trucks); and adding weight, stripping, repainting, and relettering the model should be well within your skill set.


Ben Hom


Re: Vallejo Paint Colors

Bruce Griffin
 

Lester,

Thank you for sharing your photo, I saved it for reference. Like my photo it is a great place to start. The MRH publication on Post Floquil paints is great and is another resource. I believe I will spend less in the long run and have better results the more data I have. There are so many colors for so many types of modeling in the Vallejo lines. 

Best Regards,
Bruce Griffin
Ashland, MD. 


Re: Vallejo Paint Colors

Bruce Griffin
 

Ralph,

i only found two yellows readily available, but the stock on Amazon changes constantly. Model Air Yellow 71.078 is fairly mustard or golden yellow, while Model Air Medium Yellow 71.002 is a fairly bright yellow. The first seems like a traditional reefer color and a combination might be better for FGEX. I purchased these from Amazon, I use Amazon Prime for its free shipping, TV, and Music applications, so its a bargain for me.  

I would love to hear Bill Welch’s take on the two colors. 

I added a photo photo of the two colors next to a Stanley tape measure with a yellow for a reference. 

Beat Regards,
Bruce Griffin
Ashland, MD


Re: Vallejo Paint Colors

Bruce Griffin
 

Scott,

I haven’t looked at the Micro-Mark choices, thank you for sharing the link, I will check it out. There were twenty browns on Amazon for $5-$7 delivered so I started there. I checked I don’t have a bottle of PollyScale Mineral Red to paint our a comparison, sorry. 

Best Recards,
Bruce Griffin
Ashland, MD. 


Computer Fonts for Modeling Typefaces

Charles Hostetler
 

For those of you that are looking for typewriter-like fonts for modeling steam-era freight car waybills, I've prepared a resource of some fonts I've found that may be useful.  You can find them at:

https://cnwmodeling1957.typepad.com/cnwmodeling/2019/01/computer-fonts-that-model-typefaces-for-railroad-waybills.html

Regards,

Charles Hostetler
Washington, Ill


Re: Eastern Car Works 65' mill gondolas

mopacfirst
 

Yes indeed.  Now that I have the ends securely attached, I can still get in to trim down the bolster from the end, after I do some test fitting of the coupler pockets.  I'm considering using shoe goo to set the couplers, since any screws would go right through the floor.  I normally use the Kadee 262 pockets now, which require trimming the top end flange flush.  May need a long-shank coupler also.

As in cases like this where the truck screws have very little engagement, I sometimes use a piece of Plastruct tubing to fit over the screw threads, to 'shim' the fit of the screws so that the trucks aren't loose.  I have some Walthers National B-1 on order, since those are one of the closest, and there's a photo in PRR color guide 2 showing  PRR 440805 with that truck (the 70-ton equivalent).

While I'm at it, there's another photo directly below that one (page 77) showing PRR 441043 with a truck having three springs visible at the outside edge of the spring pack.  It looks vaguely like the Kadee 1566 Barber S-2B, although that's not what it is.

Ron Merrick


Re: Ertl Boxcar

Benjamin Hom
 

Bob Chaparro wrote::
"A few months ago I picked-up a new-in-box Ertl boxcar, a purchased based on the two dollar list price. This is the first Ertl car I have ever owned.

I just open the box to work over the car and noticed the box itself said "50' USRD Double Sheathed Boxcar". The car is a forty-foot car, so that seemed a bit strange."

An obvious typo.  It's actually a pretty nice model of the 40 ft USRA DS boxcar. 


"Upon further inspection it appears that the body is a one-piece casting. Ends, sides, roof and floor appear to be all one piece so adding weight may be a big problem.

My question is, am I missing something about how to open up the car body or is in indeed a one-piece casting?"

The roof is a separate piece and should pop off with little effort.


"And when I held the car I could tell it was under-weight. A check on the digital scale said it was 1.55 ounces. That's considerably under-weight."

These cars were marketed along with a line of boxcar loads mounted on false floors.  The idea was modelers would buy the loads to go with the cars, pop off the roofs, and drop in the loads, which would make up some weight.


"Perhaps I should just resell the car, given all the criticisms I seen on this list about body and lettering inaccuracies for Ertl cars."

Seriously?  The lettering is poorly researched (thanks, Hundman), but I'm not sure where you're getting the idea that the body is inaccurate.  The grabs, while oversized, are easy to replace (as are the cast steel trucks); and adding weight, stripping, repainting, and relettering the model should be well within your skill set.


Ben Hom


Re: Ertl Boxcar

Joseph
 

Bob,
The doors open on these cars.  I have a couple on the Central of Minnesota that I have replaced the grabs and added brake gear

Joe Binish


On Jan 25, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Bob Chaparro <chiefbobbb@...> wrote:

A few months ago I picked-up a new-in-box Ertl boxcar, a purchased based on the two dollar list price. This is the first Ertl car I have ever owned.

I just open the box to work over the car and noticed the box itself said "50' USRD Double Sheathed Boxcar". The car is a forty-foot car, so that seemed a bit strange.

And when I held the car I could tell it was under-weight. A check on the digital scale said it was 1.55 ounces. That's considerably under-weight.

Upon further inspection it appears that the body is a one-piece casting. Ends, sides, roof and floor appear to be all one piece so adding weight may be a big problem.

My question is, am I missing something about how to open up the car body or is in indeed a one-piece casting?

Perhaps I should just resell the car, given all the criticisms I seen on this list about body and lettering inaccuracies for Ertl cars.

Thanks.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Eastern Car Works 65' mill gondolas

Benjamin Hom
 

Ron Merrick wrote:
"I have my G26 assembled, up to the point of adding grabs.  I'm going to carve off the molded grabs on the end and put wire grabs there too."

Ensure you address the most serious operational issue of this kit - the model rides too high on its trucks.  See Elden's TKM article for details on fixing this.


Ben Hom


Re: Eastern Car Works 65' mill gondolas

mopacfirst
 

Now that I'm home, I can concur that the end in the "AAR" kit does have the same ribs as the G26 kit does.  I'd probably carve those off and use the part, since I've also confirmed that the model is correctly more than a foot narrower than a standard, say 52', gon, in my case a Proto Greenville gon.  I've also measured said Proto gon and I think I can add six panels, removing the wide center one, and get one of the two-panel slope cars.  That little project will be awhile from now.  Kits suitable for slaughtering are available on eBay.

I have my G26 assembled, up to the point of adding grabs.  I'm going to carve off the molded grabs on the end and put wire grabs there too.

Ron Merrick


Re: Eastern Car Works 65' mill gondolas

mopacfirst
 

On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 12:35 PM, Tim O'Connor wrote:
The Eastern Car Works 65 foot gondolas share ends, floor/underframe and
interior of the sides.
The interior sides and floor and ends are accurate for the PRR G26. Note
unlike Athearn's tank cars
that share the bottom half of the triple dome tank car.

Tim O'



The Equipment Diagram for the WP gon appears to be consistent with the
side castings of the ECW #  3010 kit, and the general A.A.R design. The
problem with the kit otherwise is that there are 2 frets of cast parts
needed to construct the body of the model. One fret includes the sides
and center sill, the other has the rest of the parts, i.e. end castings,
end doors, floor, and other details. The 2nd fret's parts seem to be
consistent with the PRR G26/ G26a version ( a kit I don't have). For
instance, the end frame castings have several "fins" as part of the
casting: 3 horizontal on each side of the end doors, and 3 vertical ones
on the end beam, located either side of the coupler pocket. These are
obvious on the PRR cars but I've seen no photos of A.A.R.-designed cars
with these fins.


--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: Photo: Tank (And Other) Cars

Dave Bayless
 

Bob,

This looks like it is the “Bullring and Links Yard” in Los Angeles. The tracks curving around in the left part of the view are curving towards the “midway” and will lead to “Dayton Tower” at the south end of Taylor Yard.

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2019 12:07 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Photo: Tank (And Other) Cars

 

This is a photo link from the UCLA Library archives:

https://dl.library.ucla.edu/islandora/object/laviews%3A431

The image in the upper right-hand corner is of a freight yard (Someone know which one?) in Los Angeles in 1914.

Click on the image to enlarge it.

There are two interesting (to me, at least) tank cars in the foreground along with many other freight cars. A little work in Photoshop should bring out more details.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Eastern Car Works 65' mill gondolas

Tim O'Connor
 

The Eastern Car Works 65 foot gondolas share ends, floor/underframe and interior of the sides.
The interior sides and floor and ends are accurate for the PRR G26. Note unlike Athearn's tank cars
that share the bottom half of the triple dome tank car.

Tim O'



The Equipment Diagram for the WP gon appears to be consistent with the side castings of the ECW #  3010 kit, and the general A.A.R design. The problem with the kit otherwise is that there are 2 frets of cast parts needed to construct the body of the model. One fret includes the sides and center sill, the other has the rest of the parts, i.e. end castings, end doors, floor, and other details. The 2nd fret's parts seem to be consistent with the PRR G26/ G26a version ( a kit I don't have). For instance, the end frame castings have several "fins" as part of the casting: 3 horizontal on each side of the end doors, and 3 vertical ones on the end beam, located either side of the coupler pocket. These are obvious on the PRR cars but I've seen no photos of A.A.R.-designed cars with these fins.


--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Photo: Tank (And Other) Cars

Bob Chaparro
 

This is a photo link from the UCLA Library archives:

https://dl.library.ucla.edu/islandora/object/laviews%3A431

The image in the upper right-hand corner is of a freight yard (Someone know which one?) in Los Angeles in 1914.

Click on the image to enlarge it.

There are two interesting (to me, at least) tank cars in the foreground along with many other freight cars. A little work in Photoshop should bring out more details.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Vallejo Paint Colors

Ken Adams
 

Last year I did some experimentation on how to replicate SP box car red without an air brush. I found a combination of Tamiya Red Oxide primer from a spray can and a thin over wash of Vallejo Model Color 70.982 Cavalry Brown worked very well to replicate the elusive post world war 2 synthetic oxide red color.  My experiments can be found at https://srandsp.blogspot.com/2018/05/more-on-sp-freight-car-red-from-rattle.html and preceding blogs. 

I am extremely impressed with Vallejo model paints used along with the Tamiya spray can primers. They have eliminated my need for an air brush for nearly all applications. 

Unfortunately supply has become an issue. My local hobby shop cannot support the range of Vallejo paints in addition to TruColor ,Tamiya, and Scalecoat.  My best supply in the past has been War Games shops that also support war gamer figure modeling. Unfortunately these are getting rarer too. Hobby Lobby (ugh) carried the Vallejo model air and model color for a while but cut back and doubled the price recently.  The nearest war game supply is about 30 miles away.  The distance doesn't allow much more experimentation as does ordering over the internet.   


ECW Great Northern 65' Mill Gondola Kit Mint/New

Andy Carlson
 

Hello-
I have a new kit of an Eastern Car Works Inc. 65' Mill Gondola. This would be mint if the label hadn't disappeared from the box end. Looks like the contents have never been removed from box. This is the kit with the ribs on the car sides reaching all the way down to the lower edge.

Offered for $10, plus buyer to pay $3.75 for US 1st class mail (all 50 states). I accept checks and money orders. With a small fee PayPal is acceptable. Contact me off-list (please) at <midcentury@...> I have recently noticed that at the bottom of this page is a link for "reply to sender" which has worked for me.

Thanks,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA


Re: Eastern Car Works 65' mill gondolas

Richard Townsend
 

I believe Speedwitch makes the proper ends for the AAR version of the car:

P102 – Postwar Ends for AAR 65’6″ Mill Gondola

$5.00

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
To: main <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Jan 25, 2019 6:26 am
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Eastern Car Works 65' mill gondolas

Scott,

It occurs to me that the Greenville 65' gondolas would likely have ends and drop doors similar to the Proto 2000 models. The Proto cars included two different drop doors, so these extras might be a source of parts.

Attached is the one photo I have of these rather rare cars (on the WP at least), and wouldn't you know, the ends are dropped!

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 1/25/19 6:31 AM, Scott H. Haycock wrote:
Garth and all,

The Equipment Diagram for the WP gon appears to be consistent with the side castings of the ECW #  3010 kit, and the general A.A.R design. The problem with the kit otherwise is that there are 2 frets of cast parts needed to construct the body of the model. One fret includes the sides and center sill, the other has the rest of the parts, i.e. end castings, end doors, floor, and other details. The 2nd fret's parts seem to be consistent with the PRR G26/ G26a version ( a kit I don't have). For instance, the end frame castings have several "fins" as part of the casting: 3 horizontal on each side of the end doors, and 3 vertical ones on the end beam, located either side of the coupler pocket. These are obvious on the PRR cars but I've seen no photos of A.A.R.-designed cars with these fins.

The PRR cars have a different side stake arrangement, and were home built, while the A.A.R. designed cars were built by Greenville, Bethlehem, Pullman-Standard, and possibly others.

There were several other designs of 65' mill gons as well.    

While I'm still researching the A.A.R. design, another point seems to be that the PRR cars may be narrower- I.W.- than the A.A.R. design.

Within the next week or so, as time permits, I'll provide a more comprehensive report of my research on these cars.

   
Scott Haycock
Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm
ent
On January 25, 2019 at 3:00 AM Garth Groff <sarahsan@...> wrote:

Ed and Ron,

WP series 9001-9050 had 20 panels, five panels on the slope and all ribs extending to the sill. These were 1949 Greenville cars. Does this match up (I don't have one of the ECW kits to compare)? General arrangement drawings can be viewed at https://www.wplives.com/diagrams/freight/1958/G9001-9050.php . Photos are found in Jim Eager's book WESTERN PACIFIC COLOR GUIDE TO FREIGHT AND PASSENGER EQUIPMENT (Morning Sun, 2001). Some of these cars were fitted up with temporary coil racks only over the trucks and used between USS plants at Geneva, Utah and Pittsburg (no "h"), California, over the D&RGW/WP/SN until more appropriate cars could be purchased for coil service.

E&B Valley offered a WP-lettered car, but it was actually the PRR design. I stripped mine and lettered it properly for the PRR.

The D&RGW also had similar cars built in 1948 by Pressed Steel. These were 30050-30999 (2nd series of those numbers, the orginals having been transferred to the Alaska Railroad in 1947). See Jim Eager's RIO GRANDE COLOR GUIDE TO FREIGHT AND PASSENGER EQUIPMENT (Morning Sun, 1996).

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff




Re: Vallejo Paint Colors

Bill Welch
 

Thank you for this link George. i have their model Hobby Paint charts for both Model Aire and Model Color. I had no idea they were such a diverse company paint wise. Really good to see such a company in the Hobby Paint business.

Bill Welch

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