Date   

Information access for Resin Car Works kits

Eric Hansmann
 

The latest Resin Car Works blog post discusses accessing the extra prototype details to help you build RCW kits and what happens to the details when a kit is retired.

http://blog.resincarworks.com/about-our-kits/



Eric Hansmann

RCW web guy


Re: Soo Line Wood Boxcars #100-444 / Accurail 7000 Series Kitbash #100-444

Dennis Storzek
 

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 03:02 PM, Sean Murphy wrote:
The WC cars were nearly identical from my understanding.
The WC cars, 1500-1652 (even) were identical. All 250 cars were done as one batch during the winter of 1950-1951, and then proportionally assigned to the two corporate entities. While these look like simple upgrades of older cars, the rebuilding was quite extensive as not only the centersills were replaced, but also the side sills, and the posts re-spaced to increase the door opening from 5 to 6 feet. Company records don't show any one to one correlation with older car numbers; I believe these were essentially new cars built of salvaged material. These are some of the few Soo single sheathed cars that were equipped with brake steps and high power hand brakes. Here is a link to a photo on the Fallen Flags web site, note the tiny W.C. at the upper left hand corner of the side that denotes WC ownership.

SOO 1584

Dennis Storzek


Re: Linkage repair on a brass locomotive

Ralph W. Brown
 

Hi Bryian,
 
Years ago, well decades really, I had zero problems using the tool provided with the Penn Line kit I was building at the time.  Some time later I had a much beefier tool custom machined for me and it also worked without difficulty.  Bowser presently offers a riveting tool for the valve gear rivets (Part No. 1-36), which I suspect is very like, if not the same as, the Penn Line tool.
 
Incidentally, I didn’t use the paper-between-the-parts trick mentioned previously, but it seems to me the instructions (yes, I read instructions) said something about not getting too aggressive with the hammer, or words to that affect.  Still, if one’s “hammer” lacks finesse, the paper sounds like a good idea.
 
Pax,
 
 
Ralph Brown
Portland, Maine
PRRT&HS No. 3966
NMRA No. L2532

rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com
 

From: Bryian Sones via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 10:28 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Linkage repair on a brass locomotive
 
Dan,
 
With all that said. I assume there might be better tools available than others. Do you have any suggestion on where to get the best tool for this and which to buy?
Also, thank you to everyone for the input. There are really good suggestions and advice.
 
 
Thank you,
 
Bryian Sones
Union Pacific Prototype Modeler
Murrieta, CA


On Wednesday, January 30, 2019 12:03 PM, Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:


Good advice.
 
When setting such a rivet one wants to roll the hollow end over into a bead rather like a doubled-over sock. You do not want to just squash it flat. Flattening it may work, but will usually crack the rivet’s new head, and weaken the rivet. This is why rivet-set tools are made.
 
 
They form the new head with a smooth sort-of “rolling-over” action (no true rotary motion is involved). Lacking a rivet-set of the correct size, a reasonable alternative is to carefully expand the rivet just a bit with a countersink or other pointed / tapered tool, then work the edge outward and down with a small jeweler’s ball-peen hammer. It’s not as good as using a proper rivet-set, but can be quite satisfactory.
 
As an aside, this is the same idea as rolling in boiler tubes in a tube-sheet. Here the much larger tubes ARE actually rolled into form with a rotary-roller tool driven by a large air or electric drill. As the tool rotates inside the hollow tube it forces the metal outward then bends and stretches it back over itself forming a bead.
 
 
Such a tool would be great for hollow rivets too, but for HO valve gear the parts would be microscopic!
 
Dan Mitchell
==========
On Jan 30, 2019, at 11:09 AM, Edward <edb8391@...> wrote:
 
I would also like to add that when setting such a rivet to join moving parts, that it not be set too tight.
If set and too tight, the rivet should be removed and the job done over.
Trying to work a tight joint to free it up could damage the rivet 's upset.
Binding might also cause the moving parts to possibly fail at some point.
Putting a thin piece of paper or similar removable material between the moving parts before riveting may help avoid the issue.

Ed Bommer
.
 



Re: Soo Line Wood Boxcars #100-444 / Accurail 7000 Series Kitbash #100-444

thomas christensen
 

Sean,
 The Soo magazine from the SLHTS, Winter 2014 Volume 36 Number 1 has an article  on kitbashing these cars.
Tom Christensen

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 1:36 PM, Sean Murphy
<sean.p.murphy.design@...> wrote:
Hi everyone,

I am looking for photos of Soo Line boxcars #100-444 which were rebuilds in 1950 that resemble the Accurail 7000 series wood boxcar. I am looking at doing a kitbash in HO to get it close to the real thing. Drawings, dimensions, and info would also help, too._._,_._,_


Out of Scope messages

Mikebrock
 

Tim O’Conner writes:

 

“Aren't discussions critical of vendors' business practices (or consequences of their alleged negligence)
prohibited from the STMFC list?”

Yes. However, note the rule: Members are permitted to criticize or praise manufacturer's products free from criticism from other members. Criticism of a manufacturer's business practices is, however, not within the scope of the group. So, one might criticize a drawing but not the right of the drawer to make an error. As Tim says, “due diligence” or perhaps “the proof of the pudin’ is in the eatin’ or maybe “Beware of the drawer’s dawg” should be exercised.

 

And, I might note that the rules of the STMFC are very clear that messages MUST be about freight cars:

“ALL SUBJECTS OTHER THAN THOSE DIRECTLY ASSOCIATED WITH STEAM ERA FREIGHT CARS ARE PROHIBITED FROM MEMBER MESSAGES. Thus, all admin, security, or "policing" functions will be conducted only by myself or my representatives.” Meaning that all discussions critical of Hundman personally are out of scope.

Last, there have been several messages out of scope lately. The STMFC management has been preoccupied with Prototype Rails and has not responded as strongly as it should have. This is changing.

Mike Brock

STMFC Owner

STMFC Owner

 


Re: Linkage repair on a brass locomotive

Bryian Sones
 

Dan,

With all that said. I assume there might be better tools available than others. Do you have any suggestion on where to get the best tool for this and which to buy? 
Also, thank you to everyone for the input. There are really good suggestions and advice.


Thank you,

Bryian Sones
Union Pacific Prototype Modeler
Murrieta, CA


On Wednesday, January 30, 2019 12:03 PM, Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:


Good advice.

When setting such a rivet one wants to roll the hollow end over into a bead rather like a doubled-over sock. You do not want to just squash it flat. Flattening it may work, but will usually crack the rivet’s new head, and weaken the rivet. This is why rivet-set tools are made.


They form the new head with a smooth sort-of “rolling-over” action (no true rotary motion is involved). Lacking a rivet-set of the correct size, a reasonable alternative is to carefully expand the rivet just a bit with a countersink or other pointed / tapered tool, then work the edge outward and down with a small jeweler’s ball-peen hammer. It’s not as good as using a proper rivet-set, but can be quite satisfactory.

As an aside, this is the same idea as rolling in boiler tubes in a tube-sheet. Here the much larger tubes ARE actually rolled into form with a rotary-roller tool driven by a large air or electric drill. As the tool rotates inside the hollow tube it forces the metal outward then bends and stretches it back over itself forming a bead.


Such a tool would be great for hollow rivets too, but for HO valve gear the parts would be microscopic!

Dan Mitchell
==========
On Jan 30, 2019, at 11:09 AM, Edward <edb8391@...> wrote:

I would also like to add that when setting such a rivet to join moving parts, that it not be set too tight.
If set and too tight, the rivet should be removed and the job done over.
Trying to work a tight joint to free it up could damage the rivet 's upset.
Binding might also cause the moving parts to possibly fail at some point. 
Putting a thin piece of paper or similar removable material between the moving parts before riveting may help avoid the issue.

Ed Bommer
.




Re: Detail Associates (was DW) composite GS gon FS

Benjamin Hom
 

Detail Associates ad from the March 1989 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman.


Ben Hom


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

Bill Welch
 

Personally I am not very good at reading drawings plus over the years with the stories of inaccuracies of drawings in the hobby press, I only use photos to guide my modeling.

Bill Welch


Re: Soo Line Wood Boxcars #100-444 / Accurail 7000 Series Kitbash #100-444

Sean Murphy
 

Thanks Andy,

Any chance you have the book? I don't and was wondering if I could get an image posted or scanned from the source. The WC cars were nearly identical from my understanding.


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

Tim O'Connor
 


Aren't discussions critical of vendors' business practices (or consequences of their alleged negligence)
prohibited from the STMFC list? We know Branchline followed an incorrect drawing... but there is such a
thing as "due diligence" too. ;-)

Tim O'



On 1/30/2019 3:13 PM, Benjamin Hom wrote:
Fenton Wells wrote:
"Not bad for an old guy, at least the info was in Mainline Modeler at some time, right wrong or indifferent."

Tell that to the manufacturers who got burned.  I'll bet Branchline had better uses for the money spent on fixing that 41 ft boxcar tooling.


Ben Hom


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

Dennis Storzek
 

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 11:32 AM, O Fenton Wells wrote:
Didn't Mainline Modeler did an extensive series on these boxcars in the late 1970's I seem to remember.
Fenton
We're going in circles here, Fenton. The Mainline Modeler drawings have been mentioned. While Hundman attempted to correct most the features that were included in the pre-production drawings widely published in the trade press of the day, but never made it into the production cars, he introduced his own errors, certainly including his rendition of the door hardware. His dipiction of original paint schemes was simply atrocious. 

Dennis Storzek


Re: Linkage repair on a brass locomotive

Dennis Storzek
 

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is, when rolling the bead on the tubular end, it is possible to draw the parts together too tightly. Way in the past I remember a tip; poke a hole in a small piece of paper and place that between the parts to be riveted, with the rivet going through the hole. After setting the river, the paper can be ripped out, leaving .003" to .004" of clearance between the parts.

Dennis Storzek


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

gary laakso
 

You are correct Fenton, in the January/February 1980 issue and the following issue featured a scratch built GN version.

 

Gary Laakso

Northwest of Mike Brock

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of O Fenton Wells
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2019 11:32 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

 

Didn't Mainline Modeler did an extensive series on these boxcars in the late 1970's I seem to remember.

Fenton

 

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 2:25 PM Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:

BILL PARDIE wrote:



Last week there was some discussion on the lack of drawings for the USRA double sheath box cars.  I was rather tied up so I hope that this comment is not too late

For anyone fortunate enough to have some of the old Train Shed Cyclopedias by Newton Greg there are drawings of both the single and double sheath cars in Volume

#3.  This series is a compelation of drawings from the Car Builders Cyclopedia and are much easier to handle than the CBC.  

 

    But are these not the "original USRA design" drawings, rather than the cars as actually built?

 

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA

2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com

(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...

Publishers of books on railroad history

 

 

 

 


 

--

Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd

Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

Benjamin Hom
 

Fenton Wells wrote:
"Not bad for an old guy, at least the info was in Mainline Modeler at some time, right wrong or indifferent."

Tell that to the manufacturers who got burned.  I'll bet Branchline had better uses for the money spent on fixing that 41 ft boxcar tooling.


Ben Hom


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

O Fenton Wells
 

Not bad for an old guy, at least the info was in Mainline Modeler at some time, right wrong or indifferent.
Fenton

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 2:59 PM Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:
Fenton Wells wrote:
"Didn't Mainline Modeler did an extensive series on these boxcars in the late 1970's I seem to remember."

Can't be the late 1970s, as Mainline Modeler wasn't in print until 1980.  January and March 1980 issues (reprinted in the Phoenix soft cover Best of Mainline Modeler series), and a significant source of misinformation on these cars, specifically, a conjectural lettering diagram (some with little basis in reality) of the roads who were allocated these cars.  Ertl used this for their line of cars, which resulted in the worst feature of these models.  Thanks, Hundman.


Ben Hom





--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: Linkage repair on a brass locomotive

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

Good advice.

When setting such a rivet one wants to roll the hollow end over into a bead rather like a doubled-over sock. You do not want to just squash it flat. Flattening it may work, but will usually crack the rivet’s new head, and weaken the rivet. This is why rivet-set tools are made.


They form the new head with a smooth sort-of “rolling-over” action (no true rotary motion is involved). Lacking a rivet-set of the correct size, a reasonable alternative is to carefully expand the rivet just a bit with a countersink or other pointed / tapered tool, then work the edge outward and down with a small jeweler’s ball-peen hammer. It’s not as good as using a proper rivet-set, but can be quite satisfactory.

As an aside, this is the same idea as rolling in boiler tubes in a tube-sheet. Here the much larger tubes ARE actually rolled into form with a rotary-roller tool driven by a large air or electric drill. As the tool rotates inside the hollow tube it forces the metal outward then bends and stretches it back over itself forming a bead.


Such a tool would be great for hollow rivets too, but for HO valve gear the parts would be microscopic!

Dan Mitchell
==========

On Jan 30, 2019, at 11:09 AM, Edward <edb8391@...> wrote:

I would also like to add that when setting such a rivet to join moving parts, that it not be set too tight.
If set and too tight, the rivet should be removed and the job done over.
Trying to work a tight joint to free it up could damage the rivet 's upset.
Binding might also cause the moving parts to possibly fail at some point. 
Putting a thin piece of paper or similar removable material between the moving parts before riveting may help avoid the issue.

Ed Bommer
.


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

Benjamin Hom
 

Fenton Wells wrote:
"Didn't Mainline Modeler did an extensive series on these boxcars in the late 1970's I seem to remember."

Can't be the late 1970s, as Mainline Modeler wasn't in print until 1980.  January and March 1980 issues (reprinted in the Phoenix soft cover Best of Mainline Modeler series), and a significant source of misinformation on these cars, specifically, a conjectural lettering diagram (some with little basis in reality) of the roads who were allocated these cars.  Ertl used this for their line of cars, which resulted in the worst feature of these models.  Thanks, Hundman.


Ben Hom


Re: GM&O 4670

jace6315
 

I suspect that the draw to the GM&O was that wooden single sheathed cars were likely cheaper to buy (but more expensive to maintain) compared to the steel sided cars (single or double sheathed).

Jim Matthews

-------- Original message --------
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Date: 1/30/19 12:05 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] GM&O 4670

Ben

Yep, you're right. Including the War Emergency cars, the GM&O had
"modern" single sheathed
box cars with 4-4, 4-5, and 5-5 ends! I think you're right - looks like
GM&O followed the 1932, then
the 1937, and then the modified 1937 AAR designs. A case of they liked
the box cars but preferred
to use wood sides - perhaps to mollify their local lumber mill customers.

Tim O'Connor



On 1/29/2019 1:58 PM, Benjamin Scanlon via Groups.Io wrote:
> Hi, is it though, Tim?
>
> 6470 (sorry for wrong number in title of email) looks to have 4-4
> ends, the 20188 has 4-5.
>
> Also if you count the horizontal corrugations on the door, 6470 has 16
> and 20188 has 18.
>
> Further, look at where the diagonal brace ends on the car end, on the
> two cars.
>
> I am wondering if 20188 may be a composite sided version of a 1937 AAR?
> --
> Ben Scanlon
> Tottenham, England



--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*




Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

O Fenton Wells
 

Didn't Mainline Modeler did an extensive series on these boxcars in the late 1970's I seem to remember.
Fenton

On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 2:25 PM Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:
BILL PARDIE wrote:

Last week there was some discussion on the lack of drawings for the USRA double sheath box cars.  I was rather tied up so I hope that this comment is not too late
For anyone fortunate enough to have some of the old Train Shed Cyclopedias by Newton Greg there are drawings of both the single and double sheath cars in Volume
#3.  This series is a compelation of drawings from the Car Builders Cyclopedia and are much easier to handle than the CBC.  

    But are these not the "original USRA design" drawings, rather than the cars as actually built?

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history







--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: USRA DOUBLE SHEATH BOXCAR DRAWINGS

Tony Thompson
 

BILL PARDIE wrote:

Last week there was some discussion on the lack of drawings for the USRA double sheath box cars.  I was rather tied up so I hope that this comment is not too late
For anyone fortunate enough to have some of the old Train Shed Cyclopedias by Newton Greg there are drawings of both the single and double sheath cars in Volume
#3.  This series is a compelation of drawings from the Car Builders Cyclopedia and are much easier to handle than the CBC.  

    But are these not the "original USRA design" drawings, rather than the cars as actually built?

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





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