Date   

Throwback Thursday: Athearn Rolling Stock Ad, Model Railroader, February 1959

Benjamin Hom
 

This is why I laugh when I see panic over the retirement of Athearn Blue Box kits...some of them were in continuous production for over 50 years by the time kits were discontinued in 2009.  If you can't find these on the secondary market, you're just not trying.


Ben Hom


Re: You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
 

Ya knows, your opinion is always welcome here in these USofA.

So is counter opinions.

It always amazes me when I see people slamming anything from, in this case, Microsoft. It also happens with other major companies.

In regards your comment about Outlook being something scary, I’ve only have been using it since around 1995-96. Occasional glitches? Sure, but nothing of any consequence.  Just saying I feel it works mighty fine.

Really, the one company I would not deal with at all if it were possible is Google. Some of their stuff on the web that we have no choice but to use does work okay; others I have tried has been nothing but a hassle.

But that is a minor point. What gripes me is the near monopoly given to Google by our “servants” in Washington. All of them, regardless of party affiliation.

People complain about he government spying on us common folk. Well, let them. I don’t do anything to piss them and they leave me alone, well, at least as much as the other poor peons out there.

But Google spying is very deep and very consistent. And they SELL all our privacy to as many organizations who are willing to pay for it. I just read a few days ago about some other way they are about to force more of their self-serving programing down our throats.

Anyway, that’s the way I see I it.

We now return to our normal programing.

Thank you for listening,

John Hagen

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 2:11 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

 


Andy, it happens. The best thing to do is to contact an administrator AFTER first checking the web site
to make sure you are still subscribed to the mailing list. A lot of email services are doing things that we
don't want them to do in the name of "convenience". I miss Eudora so much! I'm using Thunderbird and
it's about the crappiest email program ever... after Outlook that is. (shudder)

Tim O'


Re: Bucyrus decals?

 

Jerry,

Jim is correct, the Tichy set #9310 has text that reads "The Buycrus Co." in text that looks right for the boom of their derrick.  The way I've spelt it here is the way it is on the sheet, so you'll have some cutting/pasting to do.  The 9310 is white, gothic style text, but they have other options:

https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_decals/Default.aspx


Regards,

Mike Aufderheide


Re: Grain Loading Limit Stencils

Rich C
 

Thanks Jerry 

On Thursday, April 11, 2019, 5:40:30 AM CDT, jerryglow2 <jerryglow@...> wrote:


I created a PDF of floors an interior walls to print on light cardstock and glue inside a car. Guess I should add some of these marks near the door opening. BTW feel free to use the file.


Re: You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

Tim O'Connor
 


Andy, it happens. The best thing to do is to contact an administrator AFTER first checking the web site
to make sure you are still subscribed to the mailing list. A lot of email services are doing things that we
don't want them to do in the name of "convenience". I miss Eudora so much! I'm using Thunderbird and
it's about the crappiest email program ever... after Outlook that is. (shudder)

Tim O'


On 4/11/2019 3:01 PM, Andy Carlson wrote:

I received this email this morning from Group io. It said to resume subscription to click there. I have not received any STMFC emails since, though I complied with their instructions. Do I need to reapply to the administration? I have no clue as to why a group email to me was scammed.

Hello,

Because your Email Service Provider reported to us that one or more messages sent to you from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io has been marked as spam you have been automatically removed from the group. We suggest that you check your spam box as soon as possible to see if your Email Service Provider has diverted legitimate messages into it.

You will receive no more emails from that group. If this was a mistake, you can resume your subscription within the next 7 days by clicking the following link:

Resume Subscription

Groups.io groups offer several options for controlling how much and what types of emails to receive. See this Help Center article for more information.

If this happens repeatedly please check with your email service to learn about how they decide to send feedback reports to list services (such as Groups.io groups).



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

Andy Carlson
 



I received this email this morning from Group io. It said to resume subscription to click there. I have not received any STMFC emails since, though I complied with their instructions. Do I need to reapply to the administration? I have no clue as to why a group email to me was scammed.

Hello,

Because your Email Service Provider reported to us that one or more messages sent to you from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io has been marked as spam you have been automatically removed from the group. We suggest that you check your spam box as soon as possible to see if your Email Service Provider has diverted legitimate messages into it.

You will receive no more emails from that group. If this was a mistake, you can resume your subscription within the next 7 days by clicking the following link:

Resume Subscription

Groups.io groups offer several options for controlling how much and what types of emails to receive. See this Help Center article for more information.

If this happens repeatedly please check with your email service to learn about how they decide to send feedback reports to list services (such as Groups.io groups).

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team


Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Tim O'Connor
 

I have used epoxy to attach parts to brass with excellent results - including a trip through the
150 degree oven to "bake" the Scalecoat paint. I would never trust CA for this application. For
tiny parts like NBW I would try either 'canopy' white glue, or diluted contact cement - assuming
you can make it invisible.

Tim O'Connor

On 4/11/2019 9:02 AM, Bruce Smith wrote:
Jared,

I don’t foresee any major problems. We all wash and grit blast CA applied details all the time. As Paul noted, make sure the surfaces are clean.  I would consider grit blasting the brass prior to using CA to apply details just to give the brass a bit more “tooth” to hold with the CA but metal to meat and plastic to metal are two of the best surfaces to get good CA bonds.

When you’re done with the details, just wash in dish soap (Dawn) and water with a soft toothbrush. Gentle scrubbing should be fine. Then, when dry, I would grit blast, wash again, and paint.
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: Bucyrus decals?

James E Kubanick
 

Tichy might have something you can use in their set for their wreck crane kit.

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV

On Wednesday, April 10, 2019, 8:06:54 PM EDT, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


I recently purchased to HO-Scale Bucyrus cranes from  Reynauld's Euro Imports, Inc and was wondering if anyone knew of a source for Bucyrus decals?  I want to load the cranes on a flat car (freight car content), and need to get them lettered.

Thanks,

Jerry Michels


Re: Bucyrus decals?

Jerry Michels
 

Thanks Tim.  Curious.  I tried a Google search and did not find this site.  Oh well.  Sorry to take up time, but I thought someone might have used Bucyrus decals before.

Jerry Michels


Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Bruce Smith
 

Jared,

I don’t foresee any major problems. We all wash and grit blast CA applied details all the time. As Paul noted, make sure the surfaces are clean.  I would consider grit blasting the brass prior to using CA to apply details just to give the brass a bit more “tooth” to hold with the CA but metal to meat and plastic to metal are two of the best surfaces to get good CA bonds. 

When you’re done with the details, just wash in dish soap (Dawn) and water with a soft toothbrush. Gentle scrubbing should be fine. Then, when dry, I would grit blast, wash again, and paint.

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."




On Apr 10, 2019, at 10:01 PM, Jared Harper <harperandbrown@...> wrote:

I have been detailing a Balboa Santa Fe gas electroc to resemble M.177.  
So far I have been soldering everything but I have gotten to the point of wanting to attach nut-bolt-washer castings to the radiators.  I am thinking CA but when it comes time to paint the model I will want to clean it.  How do I clean it without detaching the n-b-w's.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: SAL AF-4 and AF-3

O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Jerry, the decals are from Speedwitch and are beautiful. 


On Apr 9, 2019, at 9:03 AM, Jerry Breon <jbreon@...> wrote:

Those are some nice looking cars Fenton. I'm a long time PRR modeler, but since relocating to NC those y'all road cars are becoming more and more attractive. Have always like the Seaboard graphics.

Jerry Breon
Mooresville, NC

SAL AF-4 and AF-3 
From: O Fenton Wells
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2019 14:53:36 EDT 

Here are two cars just finished.  The AF-4 was first and I didn't do a very good job on the Kadee roofwalk, the AF-3 was second and is much better almost excellent.  I'm learning. The AF-3 was a RC 40 DD , W corner car with Speedwitch doors and decals.  And yes I learned how to apply those decals better as well, thanks to members on this list. 
The AF-4 was greatly aided by information from Pat Wider, thanks Pat.  It's basically an early welded PS-1 with modified roof and ends.  Southwest Scale doors modified to be DD's and Speedwitch decals.  Still learning how to mount the Kadee brake steps so they are horizontal and not crooked.  Practice, practice,. practice....and hopefully I'll get better.
The AF-5 is next and we are making new doors and ends in resin for that.
Fenton



Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Paul Woods <paul@...>
 

Hi Jared

I would suggest cleaning the model prior to adding the NBW castings, then handle as little as possible while adding the castings and finish up by cleaning the areas with NBW castings using a very soft brush such as an artists brush and soapy water.  From my experience with CA and epoxy glues in the marine industry, both of them are very good so long as the surfaces being joined are very clean, so it's a good idea to wash the model before applying the glue in any case.

I am assuming that the NBW's are plastic and not brass - I would never glue brass details on; I would sweat them on using a low-temp solder that contains silver (so that it won't build up and hide detail) otherwise you might as well save the cost of the brass castings and use plastic.

Regards
Paul Woods

Whangarei, NZ


Re: Grain Loading Limit Stencils

jerryglow2
 

I created a PDF of floors an interior walls to print on light cardstock and glue inside a car. Guess I should add some of these marks near the door opening. BTW feel free to use the file.


Bucyrus decals

chessiesd35 <RDGSD45@...>
 

  Microscale has a set of MOW decals that has Bucyrus lettering in black or white. I don't remember the stock number off hand.


Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Todd Sullivan
 

Hi Jared,

I suspect it depends on how you will clean the model before painting.  For example, I've found that soaking models in water for an hour or more will cause CA bonds to detach, but I suspect that epoxy will survive most cleanings aside from using lacquer thinner or a similar VOC.  I use an epoxy found in hardware stores that has a 10-15 minute set time, and it is pretty robust.  I'm sure others will chime in with additional ideas ....

Todd Sullivan.


Attaching parts to brass models.

Jared Harper
 

I have been detailing a Balboa Santa Fe gas electroc to resemble M.177.  
So far I have been soldering everything but I have gotten to the point of wanting to attach nut-bolt-washer castings to the radiators.  I am thinking CA but when it comes time to paint the model I will want to clean it.  How do I clean it without detaching the n-b-w's.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: Bucyrus decals?

Tim O'Connor
 

On 4/10/2019 7:52 PM, Jerry Michels wrote:
I recently purchased to HO-Scale Bucyrus cranes from  Reynauld's Euro Imports, Inc and was wondering if anyone knew of a source for Bucyrus decals?  I want to load the cranes on a flat car (freight car content), and need to get them lettered.

Thanks,

Jerry Michels
_._,_._,_

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Bucyrus decals?

Jerry Michels
 

I recently purchased to HO-Scale Bucyrus cranes from  Reynauld's Euro Imports, Inc and was wondering if anyone knew of a source for Bucyrus decals?  I want to load the cranes on a flat car (freight car content), and need to get them lettered.

Thanks,

Jerry Michels


Re: Walthers HO 1944 AAR modified boxcar

Benjamin Hom
 

Mark Mathu wrote:
"What features make Walthers' HO 1944 AAR boxcar an AAR "modified" boxcar?  The 10'-6" inside height?"

Here is a typical model:
https://www.walthers.com/40-aar-1944-boxcar-ready-to-run-spokane-portland-seattle-11124 

You're confusing the terms.  "Modified" is used to indicate the 10 ft 6 in inside height versions of the 1937 AAR boxcar design as the first iteration of the design was 10 ft inside height.  It's not used to describe any variation of the1944 AAR boxcar design.

Walthers uses it correctly in the sales e-mail they sent out today.


Ben Hom


Walthers HO 1944 AAR modified boxcar

Mark Mathu
 

What features make Walthers' HO 1944 AAR boxcar an AAR "modified" boxcar?  The 10'-6" inside height?

Here is a typical model:
https://www.walthers.com/40-aar-1944-boxcar-ready-to-run-spokane-portland-seattle-11124
____
Mark Mathu

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