Re: Throwback Thursday: Athearn Rolling Stock Ad, Model Railroader, February 1959
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Jim,
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Some but not many. The 40' flatcar (a hold-over from the metal kits, by the way) only has a Rutland Prototype. Their 40' tank car is similar to SP, WP and UP 12K tanks, but has a lot of problems as it was a retool of their foobie 3-dome tank. Their 40' 10'6" IH square-corner boxcar was used only by two or three railroads. Their cupola caboose is ATSF and similar to some CRR cars (different steps), while their bay window is SP. The crane matches up to closely to several prototypes. The hoppers aren't too bad. None of these are perfect, and I'm sure all of you are going to enjoy picking my suggestions apart. In my view, most Athearn cars are useful as fodder for conversions. Yours Aye, Garth Groff
On 4/11/19 6:50 PM, James Lackner
wrote:
And did any of these (in this advertisement), ever match a specific prototype? All that I have ever seen is "similar to, but not an exact match to...." Jim Lackner
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Re: Throwback Thursday: Athearn Rolling Stock Ad, Model Railroader, February 1959
Richard Bale <Rhbale@...>
Irv Athearn lead a rather frugal lifestyle, just he and his wife in a double-wide trailer a few miles from the office. What made me remember that was seeing the Cadillac's in the Blue Box auto carrier in the ad Ben posted. They were inspired by the big Cadillac driven by the Mrs., one of the few extravagances in the Athearn family.
Richard Bale
In a message dated 4/11/2019 3:04:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, b.hom@... writes:
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Re: Throwback Thursday: Athearn Rolling Stock Ad, Model Railroader, February 1959
James Lackner
And did any of these (in this advertisement), ever match a specific
prototype? All that I have ever seen is "similar to, but not an exact match to...." Jim Lackner
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Throwback Thursday: Athearn Rolling Stock Ad, Model Railroader, February 1959
Benjamin Hom
This is why I laugh when I see panic over the retirement of Athearn Blue Box kits...some of them were in continuous production for over 50 years by the time kits were discontinued in 2009. If you can't find these on the secondary market, you're just not trying. Ben Hom
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Re: You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
Ya knows, your opinion is always welcome here in these USofA. So is counter opinions. It always amazes me when I see people slamming anything from, in this case, Microsoft. It also happens with other major companies. In regards your comment about Outlook being something scary, I’ve only have been using it since around 1995-96. Occasional glitches? Sure, but nothing of any consequence. Just saying I feel it works mighty fine. Really, the one company I would not deal with at all if it were possible is Google. Some of their stuff on the web that we have no choice but to use does work okay; others I have tried has been nothing but a hassle. But that is a minor point. What gripes me is the near monopoly given to Google by our “servants” in Washington. All of them, regardless of party affiliation. People complain about he government spying on us common folk. Well, let them. I don’t do anything to piss them and they leave me alone, well, at least as much as the other poor peons out there. But Google spying is very deep and very consistent. And they SELL all our privacy to as many organizations who are willing to pay for it. I just read a few days ago about some other way they are about to force more of their self-serving programing down our throats. Anyway, that’s the way I see I it. We now return to our normal programing. Thank you for listening, John Hagen
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 2:11 PM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
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Re: Bucyrus decals?
Jerry,
Jim is correct, the Tichy set #9310 has text that reads "The Buycrus Co." in text that looks right for the boom of their derrick. The way I've spelt it here is the way it is on the sheet, so you'll have some cutting/pasting to do. The 9310 is white, gothic style text, but they have other options: https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_decals/Default.aspx Regards, Mike Aufderheide
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Re: Grain Loading Limit Stencils
Rich C
Thanks Jerry
On Thursday, April 11, 2019, 5:40:30 AM CDT, jerryglow2 <jerryglow@...> wrote:
I created a PDF of floors an interior walls to print on light cardstock and glue inside a car. Guess I should add some of these marks near the door opening. BTW feel free to use the file.
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Re: You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Andy, it happens. The best thing to do is to contact an administrator AFTER first checking the web site to make sure you are still subscribed to the mailing list. A lot of email services are doing things that we don't want them to do in the name of "convenience". I miss Eudora so much! I'm using Thunderbird and it's about the crappiest email program ever... after Outlook that is. (shudder) Tim O'
On 4/11/2019 3:01 PM, Andy Carlson
wrote:
--
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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You have been removed from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Andy Carlson
I received this email this morning from Group io. It said to resume subscription to click there. I have not received any STMFC emails since, though I complied with their instructions. Do I need to reapply to the administration? I have no clue as to why a group email to me was scammed.
Hello,
Because your Email Service Provider reported to us that one or more messages sent to you from main@RealSTMFC.groups.io has been marked as spam you have been automatically removed from the group. We suggest that you check your spam box as soon as possible to see if your Email Service Provider has diverted legitimate messages into it. You will receive no more emails from that group. If this was a mistake, you can resume your subscription within the next 7 days by clicking the following link: Groups.io groups offer several options for controlling how much and what types of emails to receive. See this Help Center article for more information. If this happens repeatedly please check with your email service to learn about how they decide to send feedback reports to list services (such as Groups.io groups). Cheers,
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Re: Attaching parts to brass models.
I have used epoxy to attach parts to brass with excellent results - including a trip through the
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150 degree oven to "bake" the Scalecoat paint. I would never trust CA for this application. For tiny parts like NBW I would try either 'canopy' white glue, or diluted contact cement - assuming you can make it invisible. Tim O'Connor
On 4/11/2019 9:02 AM, Bruce Smith wrote:
Jared, --
*Tim O'Connor* *Sterling, Massachusetts*
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Re: Bucyrus decals?
Tichy might have something you can use in their set for their wreck crane kit. Jim Kubanick Morgantown WV
On Wednesday, April 10, 2019, 8:06:54 PM EDT, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
try Google? https://zyconmodels.com/oc/index.php?route=product/product&path=12_13&product_id=398&sort=p.price&order=DESC On 4/10/2019 7:52 PM, Jerry Michels
wrote:
I
recently purchased to HO-Scale Bucyrus cranes from
Reynauld's Euro
Imports, Inc and was
wondering if anyone knew of a source for Bucyrus decals? I
want to load the cranes on a flat car (freight car content),
and need to get them lettered.
Thanks,
Jerry Michels
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Re: Bucyrus decals?
Jerry Michels
Thanks Tim. Curious. I tried a Google search and did not find this site. Oh well. Sorry to take up time, but I thought someone might have used Bucyrus decals before. Jerry Michels
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Re: Attaching parts to brass models.
Jared,
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I don’t foresee any major problems. We all wash and grit blast CA applied details all the time. As Paul noted, make sure the surfaces are clean. I would consider grit blasting the brass prior to using CA to apply details just to give the brass
a bit more “tooth” to hold with the CA but metal to meat and plastic to metal are two of the best surfaces to get good CA bonds.
When you’re done with the details, just wash in dish soap (Dawn) and water with a soft toothbrush. Gentle scrubbing should be fine. Then, when dry, I would grit blast, wash again, and paint.
Regards Bruce
Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
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Re: SAL AF-4 and AF-3
Thanks Jerry, the decals are from Speedwitch and are beautiful.
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On Apr 9, 2019, at 9:03 AM, Jerry Breon <jbreon@...> wrote:
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Re: Attaching parts to brass models.
Paul Woods <paul@...>
Hi Jared
I would suggest cleaning the model prior to adding the NBW castings, then handle as little as possible while adding the castings and finish up by cleaning the areas with NBW castings using a very soft brush such as an artists brush and soapy water. From my experience with CA and epoxy glues in the marine industry, both of them are very good so long as the surfaces being joined are very clean, so it's a good idea to wash the model before applying the glue in any case. I am assuming that the NBW's are plastic and not brass - I would never glue brass details on; I would sweat them on using a low-temp solder that contains silver (so that it won't build up and hide detail) otherwise you might as well save the cost of the brass castings and use plastic. Regards Paul Woods Whangarei, NZ
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Re: Grain Loading Limit Stencils
jerryglow2
I created a PDF of floors an interior walls to print on light cardstock and glue inside a car. Guess I should add some of these marks near the door opening. BTW feel free to use the file.
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Bucyrus decals
chessiesd35 <RDGSD45@...>
Microscale has a set of MOW decals that has Bucyrus lettering in black or white. I don't remember the stock number off hand.
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Re: Attaching parts to brass models.
Todd Sullivan
Hi Jared,
I suspect it depends on how you will clean the model before painting. For example, I've found that soaking models in water for an hour or more will cause CA bonds to detach, but I suspect that epoxy will survive most cleanings aside from using lacquer thinner or a similar VOC. I use an epoxy found in hardware stores that has a 10-15 minute set time, and it is pretty robust. I'm sure others will chime in with additional ideas .... Todd Sullivan.
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Attaching parts to brass models.
Jared Harper
I have been detailing a Balboa Santa Fe gas electroc to resemble M.177. So far I have been soldering everything but I have gotten to the point of wanting to attach nut-bolt-washer castings to the radiators. I am thinking CA but when it comes time to paint the model I will want to clean it. How do I clean it without detaching the n-b-w's. Jared Harper Athens, GA
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Re: Bucyrus decals?
try Google? https://zyconmodels.com/oc/index.php?route=product/product&path=12_13&product_id=398&sort=p.price&order=DESC
On 4/10/2019 7:52 PM, Jerry Michels
wrote:
--
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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