Date   

Re: UP series 10300 to 12499

Aley, Jeff A
 

Tony,

 

               It’s not odd when taken in context.

               The models shown are in a post-1960 paint scheme.

               The models do not show OWR&N lettering.  The original poster asked if this was an error for this particular paint scheme.

               Rich’s comment is that he doesn’t believe the OWR&N reporting mark would have been on the car in the post-1960 scheme.  He also was careful to point out that 1960 is “in the future” from the perspective of STMFC.

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tony Thompson
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2019 11:08 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] UP series 10300 to 12499

 

Richard Townsend  wrote:



It’s hard to predict the future but I don’t think the OWR&N lettering will be used in the mid 1960s.

 

     Odd comment. My 1940 ORER, for example, shows OWR&N.

 

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA

2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com

(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...

Publishers of books on railroad history

 

 



 


Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Tony Thompson
 

Jon Miller wrote:

    Like I said, more than several, like lots and lots.  Sticky glue belongs in this same family.  They all appear to be variations on PVA glues!

    Polyvinyl acetate is in lots of glues, as Jon says, but they range very widely, including regular "white glue" and many other products of quite different behaviors, so I am not sure that saying "PVA" tells us much of value about a glue.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Tony Thompson
 

Dan Mitchell wrote:

I have tried “canopy glue” with poor results … unfortunately the term “canopy glue” covers several products from various manufacturers, and they are NOT all the same product. What I have found is very similar to Microscale’s “Crystal clear”, which is just white glue formulated to be clear when dry … it does not stick very well to much of anything (that’s not its purpose).

   I strongly disagree. I too have experimented with various products of the "white glue" family, and canopy glue is NOT, repeat NOT, just like any others, including Crystal Clear. Canopy glue is in fact a tenacious adhesive, and is excellent for bonding dissimilar materials, such as wood to plastic, or plastic to metal, etc. And it has the great advantage in some situations that it remains flexible.
     Let me mention one more time my blog post on the topic, which contains some additional detail:

https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-few-words-in-praise-of-canopy-glue.html

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Re: MILW & NP log trains

Gene Deimling
 

I might be able to help with some information on NP log cars that were used on branches on the set side of Washington.  I am posting a plan for skeleton cars rebuilt from from steel underframe trussrod boxcars.  The railroad recycled lots of cars to haul logs.  

--
Gene Deimling
El Dorado Hills, CA


Re: UP series 10300 to 12499

Tony Thompson
 

Richard Townsend  wrote:

It’s hard to predict the future but I don’t think the OWR&N lettering will be used in the mid 1960s.

     Odd comment. My 1940 ORER, for example, shows OWR&N.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history






Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 5/22/2019 8:57 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
unfortunately the term “canopy glue” covers several products from various manufacturers, and they are NOT all the same product

    Like I said, more than several, like lots and lots.  Sticky glue belongs in this same family.  They all appear to be variations on PVA glues!

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: SFRD Rr-46 B end photo.

Bob Chaparro
 

Two Paul Brown photos.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Re: Smoke Stack Load

Bob Chaparro
 


Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Nelson Moyer
 

Use Pacer Formula 560.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Daniel A. Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2019 10:26 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] hi tech HO air hoses

 

I have tried “canopy glue” with poor results … unfortunately the term “canopy glue” covers several products from various manufacturers, and they are NOT all the same product. What I have found is very similar to Microscale’s “Crystal clear”, which is just white glue formulated to be clear when dry … it does not stick very well to much of anything (that’s not its purpose).

 

Dan Mitchell

==========



On May 22, 2019, at 10:58 AM, Jon Miller <atsfus@...> wrote:

 

I have never had a problem with gluing them in place. I think that I have been using canopy glue.

Jack Burgess

    Canopy glue is apparently a form of PVA glue.  They call PVA about the same as white glue but it's not.  You can get a gallon of PVA in the UK but apparently not in the US.  I watched a video using it for water.  Anyway try Canopy glue or I recently bought a bottle of Elmer's "Craftbond" Quick Dry Glue that might work.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS

 


Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Nelson Moyer
 

I’ve been using a couple of eye bolts to align the air pipe, giving three points of support, the bracket, and the two eye bolts. Canopy glue seems to work fine in this application.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Daniel A. Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2019 9:39 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] hi tech HO air hoses

 

The only problem I have with the HiTech air hoses is that of fastening them on. The silicon-rubber resists all common adhesives (ACC, Goo, Shoe-Goo, white glue, acetate cement, Gorilla glue, epoxy, bathtub caulk, etc.) … NOTHING sticks to this rubber. The air hoses then simply fall off or get pulled out in service. What does work is to slide a small piece of fine brass tubing over the hose-shank and crimp it on the hose … then glue the tube to the model. This makes a mechanical fastening rather than a glued one. It works. The trick is finding tubing small enough, about 1/32” diam. K&S makes it, but does not sell it through hobby shops. It shows up in their big “grab bags” fairly often. Another possibility would be hypodermic needle stock. I suppose a piece fo flat brass bar stock could also be crimped onto the hose.

 

Dan Mitchell

==========



On May 21, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

I’ve used then since they were first introduced with the Precision Scale bracket. The PS brackets have dimple for starting the bit, but the castings aren’t always complete at the U-bolt, so I ‘ve lost a few by drilling through the side of the U-bolt. Start the hole with a #79 bit, then move up to a #77, then a #76. The air pipe on the air hose sometimes has a casting line with flash that interferes with threading it through the U-bold. I ‘ve cut off the flash with a double edge razor blade, which has a thinner blade and is sharper than a single edge razor blade. If the flash is minimal, I taper the end of the air pipe slightly to get it started while threading it into the U-bolt. I bought some YMW air hose brackets to try, but I haven’t used any yet. The detail is better on PS brackets, but the YMW brackets look like it would be easier to thread the air pipe since the hole is drilled before bending, and the metal isn’t as hard to drill.

 

Anybody want to buy a large supply of Kadee plastic air hoses cheap?

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Richard McQuade via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:35 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] hi tech HO air hoses

 

I have posted this request with the Early Rails Grp already but thought I would ask this grp too. I'm interested in "investing" in Hi Tech HO freight car air hoses and would like to know what experiences people have had with them. I would be equipping about 80 pieces of rolling stock so this would be a significant expenditure in resources. They offer 22" and 26" lengths in HO. I presume the 22" is for earlier eras  Any info or insights about them would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Richard 

 


Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

I have tried “canopy glue” with poor results … unfortunately the term “canopy glue” covers several products from various manufacturers, and they are NOT all the same product. What I have found is very similar to Microscale’s “Crystal clear”, which is just white glue formulated to be clear when dry … it does not stick very well to much of anything (that’s not its purpose).

Dan Mitchell
==========

On May 22, 2019, at 10:58 AM, Jon Miller <atsfus@...> wrote:

I have never had a problem with gluing them in place. I think that I have been using canopy glue.

Jack Burgess

    Canopy glue is apparently a form of PVA glue.  They call PVA about the same as white glue but it's not.  You can get a gallon of PVA in the UK but apparently not in the US.  I watched a video using it for water.  Anyway try Canopy glue or I recently bought a bottle of Elmer's "Craftbond" Quick Dry Glue that might work.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Brian Carlson
 

Interesting I’ve never had this problem with CA. I even have a few friction fit and they stay put.  Maybe your holes are too big? 

Brian J. Carlson 

On May 22, 2019, at 10:39 AM, Daniel A. Mitchell <danmitch@...> wrote:

The only problem I have with the HiTech air hoses is that of fastening them on. The silicon-rubber resists all common adhesives (ACC, Goo, Shoe-Goo, white glue, acetate cement, Gorilla glue, epoxy, bathtub caulk, etc.) … NOTHING sticks to this rubber. The air hoses then simply fall off or get pulled out in service. What does work is to slide a small piece of fine brass tubing over the hose-shank and crimp it on the hose … then glue the tube to the model. This makes a mechanical fastening rather than a glued one. It works. The trick is finding tubing small enough, about 1/32” diam. K&S makes it, but does not sell it through hobby shops. It shows up in their big “grab bags” fairly often. Another possibility would be hypodermic needle stock. I suppose a piece fo flat brass bar stock could also be crimped onto the hose.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On May 21, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

I’ve used then since they were first introduced with the Precision Scale bracket. The PS brackets have dimple for starting the bit, but the castings aren’t always complete at the U-bolt, so I ‘ve lost a few by drilling through the side of the U-bolt. Start the hole with a #79 bit, then move up to a #77, then a #76. The air pipe on the air hose sometimes has a casting line with flash that interferes with threading it through the U-bold. I ‘ve cut off the flash with a double edge razor blade, which has a thinner blade and is sharper than a single edge razor blade. If the flash is minimal, I taper the end of the air pipe slightly to get it started while threading it into the U-bolt. I bought some YMW air hose brackets to try, but I haven’t used any yet. The detail is better on PS brackets, but the YMW brackets look like it would be easier to thread the air pipe since the hole is drilled before bending, and the metal isn’t as hard to drill.
 
Anybody want to buy a large supply of Kadee plastic air hoses cheap?
 
Nelson Moyer
 
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Richard McQuade via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:35 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] hi tech HO air hoses
 
I have posted this request with the Early Rails Grp already but thought I would ask this grp too. I'm interested in "investing" in Hi Tech HO freight car air hoses and would like to know what experiences people have had with them. I would be equipping about 80 pieces of rolling stock so this would be a significant expenditure in resources. They offer 22" and 26" lengths in HO. I presume the 22" is for earlier eras  Any info or insights about them would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Richard 



Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

I have never had a problem with gluing them in place. I think that I have been using canopy glue.

Jack Burgess

    Canopy glue is apparently a form of PVA glue.  They call PVA about the same as white glue but it's not.  You can get a gallon of PVA in the UK but apparently not in the US.  I watched a video using it for water.  Anyway try Canopy glue or I recently bought a bottle of Elmer's "Craftbond" Quick Dry Glue that might work.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Jack Burgess
 

I have never had a problem with gluing them in place. I think that I have been using canopy glue.

 

Jack Burgess

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Daniel A. Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2019 7:39 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] hi tech HO air hoses

 

The only problem I have with the HiTech air hoses is that of fastening them on. The silicon-rubber resists all common adhesives (ACC, Goo, Shoe-Goo, white glue, acetate cement, Gorilla glue, epoxy, bathtub caulk, etc.) … NOTHING sticks to this rubber. The air hoses then simply fall off or get pulled out in service. What does work is to slide a small piece of fine brass tubing over the hose-shank and crimp it on the hose … then glue the tube to the model. This makes a mechanical fastening rather than a glued one. It works. The trick is finding tubing small enough, about 1/32” diam. K&S makes it, but does not sell it through hobby shops. It shows up in their big “grab bags” fairly often. Another possibility would be hypodermic needle stock. I suppose a piece fo flat brass bar stock could also be crimped onto the hose.

 

Dan Mitchell

==========



On May 21, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

I’ve used then since they were first introduced with the Precision Scale bracket. The PS brackets have dimple for starting the bit, but the castings aren’t always complete at the U-bolt, so I ‘ve lost a few by drilling through the side of the U-bolt. Start the hole with a #79 bit, then move up to a #77, then a #76. The air pipe on the air hose sometimes has a casting line with flash that interferes with threading it through the U-bold. I ‘ve cut off the flash with a double edge razor blade, which has a thinner blade and is sharper than a single edge razor blade. If the flash is minimal, I taper the end of the air pipe slightly to get it started while threading it into the U-bolt. I bought some YMW air hose brackets to try, but I haven’t used any yet. The detail is better on PS brackets, but the YMW brackets look like it would be easier to thread the air pipe since the hole is drilled before bending, and the metal isn’t as hard to drill.

 

Anybody want to buy a large supply of Kadee plastic air hoses cheap?

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Richard McQuade via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:35 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] hi tech HO air hoses

 

I have posted this request with the Early Rails Grp already but thought I would ask this grp too. I'm interested in "investing" in Hi Tech HO freight car air hoses and would like to know what experiences people have had with them. I would be equipping about 80 pieces of rolling stock so this would be a significant expenditure in resources. They offer 22" and 26" lengths in HO. I presume the 22" is for earlier eras  Any info or insights about them would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Richard 

 


Re: hi tech HO air hoses

Daniel A. Mitchell
 

The only problem I have with the HiTech air hoses is that of fastening them on. The silicon-rubber resists all common adhesives (ACC, Goo, Shoe-Goo, white glue, acetate cement, Gorilla glue, epoxy, bathtub caulk, etc.) … NOTHING sticks to this rubber. The air hoses then simply fall off or get pulled out in service. What does work is to slide a small piece of fine brass tubing over the hose-shank and crimp it on the hose … then glue the tube to the model. This makes a mechanical fastening rather than a glued one. It works. The trick is finding tubing small enough, about 1/32” diam. K&S makes it, but does not sell it through hobby shops. It shows up in their big “grab bags” fairly often. Another possibility would be hypodermic needle stock. I suppose a piece fo flat brass bar stock could also be crimped onto the hose.

Dan Mitchell
==========

On May 21, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

I’ve used then since they were first introduced with the Precision Scale bracket. The PS brackets have dimple for starting the bit, but the castings aren’t always complete at the U-bolt, so I ‘ve lost a few by drilling through the side of the U-bolt. Start the hole with a #79 bit, then move up to a #77, then a #76. The air pipe on the air hose sometimes has a casting line with flash that interferes with threading it through the U-bold. I ‘ve cut off the flash with a double edge razor blade, which has a thinner blade and is sharper than a single edge razor blade. If the flash is minimal, I taper the end of the air pipe slightly to get it started while threading it into the U-bolt. I bought some YMW air hose brackets to try, but I haven’t used any yet. The detail is better on PS brackets, but the YMW brackets look like it would be easier to thread the air pipe since the hole is drilled before bending, and the metal isn’t as hard to drill.
 
Anybody want to buy a large supply of Kadee plastic air hoses cheap?
 
Nelson Moyer
 
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Richard McQuade via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:35 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] hi tech HO air hoses
 
I have posted this request with the Early Rails Grp already but thought I would ask this grp too. I'm interested in "investing" in Hi Tech HO freight car air hoses and would like to know what experiences people have had with them. I would be equipping about 80 pieces of rolling stock so this would be a significant expenditure in resources. They offer 22" and 26" lengths in HO. I presume the 22" is for earlier eras  Any info or insights about them would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Richard 



Re: UP series 10300 to 12499

Richard Townsend
 

It’s hard to predict the future but I don’t think the OWR&N lettering will be used in the mid 1960s.


On May 22, 2019, at 12:09 AM, Aley, Jeff A <Jeff.A.Aley@...> wrote:

The cars are lettered as class B-50-41.  The prototype B-50-41 was a 1944 AAR box car with R/3/4 Early Improved Dreadnaught ends, and a diagonal panel roof.  These cars also had Alternating Center Rivets, which the model certainly does not have (few models do).  One could add them using Archer rivets, or one could do as I do and INTEND to add the Archer rivets someday… J

 

The number series for the B-50-41 in 1951 was 101600 – 105099, so these models fit that number series.

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Lester Breuer
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 2:05 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] UP series 10300 to 12499

 

I received a 3 pack Accurail set of the cars shown in the attached photo. The cars do not have the O.-W.R.& N. small letters to show ownership which the Jan. 1953 ORER states they should have.  The cars have R-3-4 ends and have a diagonal panel roof.  Wondering when built and when painted in this paint scheme if prototype exists.
Thank You for your time and effort to help in advance.

Lester Breuer


Re: Unloading Airplane Engines

David Wiggs
 

The image was provided by Lockheed Martin which is a merger of Lockheed and Martin aircraft companies so it could be any of their planes, not Boeing planes.  Agree wtih previous comment about wing cutout for mounting.   Note that the engines are painted for wartime being painted a light color on the bottom and a a darker one on the top as were the aircraft they were installed on.
 
davo in Orlando


Re: UP series 10300 to 12499

Aley, Jeff A
 

The cars are lettered as class B-50-41.  The prototype B-50-41 was a 1944 AAR box car with R/3/4 Early Improved Dreadnaught ends, and a diagonal panel roof.  These cars also had Alternating Center Rivets, which the model certainly does not have (few models do).  One could add them using Archer rivets, or one could do as I do and INTEND to add the Archer rivets someday… J

 

The number series for the B-50-41 in 1951 was 101600 – 105099, so these models fit that number series.

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Lester Breuer
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 2:05 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] UP series 10300 to 12499

 

I received a 3 pack Accurail set of the cars shown in the attached photo. The cars do not have the O.-W.R.& N. small letters to show ownership which the Jan. 1953 ORER states they should have.  The cars have R-3-4 ends and have a diagonal panel roof.  Wondering when built and when painted in this paint scheme if prototype exists.
Thank You for your time and effort to help in advance.

Lester Breuer


Re: SFRD Rr-46 B end photo.

Steve SANDIFER
 

I think this is a 46. Car is 10036, preserved by William Osborn in Austin.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 1:17 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] SFRD Rr-46 B end photo.

 

Does anybody have the straight on photo of an Rr-46 B end?  I could have sworn that I had one in the Santa Fe historical society book or one of Teds books but cant find it now.  I might be losing my mind and saw it someplace else too.  

Thanks,
Scott McDonald


Re: MILW & NP log trains

Doug Paasch
 

Thanks all.  You have given me more info than I had before.  I appreciate it.

 

  Doug Paasch

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of np328
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 3:54 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] MILW & NP log trains

 

     Doug, 
        as an NP researcher of about four decades now this is the best advice I can give you: Join the io NP Modelers list and the io Telltale, the io Milwaukee list also and repost your query there. People who model the log service seem to be a specific grouping, just as Narrow Gauge Modelers are. (Caps out of respect.)  And hope for the best. 
 
     Old gons were used, as were old boxcars stripped of about everything above the underframe till only the skeleton remained. What boxcars were chosen for this task? Boxcars that would otherwise have been scrapped. Boxcars from the 1900s to the 1930s. Needless to say, there is not a lot of paperwork found in records I have seen. These would have been decisions made by shops very local to the area. And shop foremen local to the area.
      From what records I have found, series of (very old) cars would be marked for dismantling. From that group, some would be partially dismantled to be log cars. Again, these were local decisions and would be spot decisions. Records would have been kept in the NP Tacoma offices. 
      Of the little paperwork that I have found, it would read from corporate that from old cars to be retired/dismantled at South Tacoma Car shops, local officers should request what they feel are numbers sufficient to handled next years projected needs. And that would be it for a paper trail, at least here in Minnesota at the MNHS regarding corporate records.  
 
     Log cars are best described as the equivalent of hide cars, just in different service. And just like hide cars, a half-life existence where equipment goes to eventually die having cheated death once.      

     Of modeling, you would need gondolas from the above mentioned dates, perhaps like the class of 1923 59000 series. None of any of these earlier gons I am aware are being produced other than (possibly) resin.  And resin would not be too bad as you could warm the resin sides to where the side panels are bulging rather greatly.
       GS gons like Red Caboose or Detail Associates are not completely accurate for NP however are available at Flea markets and other events. And then again, beat the heck out of those modeling wise. Otherwise Accurail gons. Compromises all.   
     Of skeleton cars, good luck. I and (good friend) the late Ed Ursem spent weeks going through files at the MHS as Ed wanted to model the NP's Raymond branch and we found precious little on skeleton flats or disconnects other than some sketches. Certainly nothing that could be turned over to a model mfgr and expect to see a tangible model appear.  

    Of photos, there was (available through the nprha company store) a couple of Mainstreeter magazines that may have photos that covered the area of your interest. The Vol 33-4 issue might have some, there was another issue on the branch that ran out to Raymond, WA however I don't readily recall that issue.  Museum of the Rockies has the Ron Nixon collection on-line and that is searchable.  http://www.morphotoarchive.org/rvndb/    Plenty of photos.  You could look there.        
                                                                                                                                                                            Best of luck,             Jim Dick - St. Paul                                 
 
    

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