Date   

Re: Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

BRIAN PAUL EHNI
 

I use one of these. If the printing still resists, I use an ink eraser. The erasers that come with this are for pencil marks.

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Peter Ness <prness@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Friday, May 24, 2019 at 12:24 PM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

 

[Edited Message Follows]

In ancient times when dinosaurs ruled the earth I saw a cave painting or stone tablet showing a modeler using a typewriter correction pencil - not the round wheel type - complete with brush on the opposite end, to remove lettering "printed" (I don't think it was heat stamped) from a freight car side. My Mom gave me such an eraser pencil she brought home for work and I tried it with Micro-sol as a cutting medium and it worked like a charm. About a decade or so ago, I lost my typewriter eraser in a house move. At that time I searched for a reasonable alternative and came across the Faber Castell 7056 eraser stick - they produce a couple of different flavors, but this one has the pink-colored eraser material that reminded me of my old one.

I put some Micro-sol over the area I want to remove and have a go at it. Usually I am done with one area in 10 minutes or less.The "erased" surface is clean, glossy and ready for decals.  I have used this on old, enamel or lacquer-painted models as well as new acrylic and "ink-based" painted models with equal success. I sharpen the point when working on a model with lettering next to ribs or bracing, otherwise it only gets sharpened if the tip gets "gunked up". A broad, dull tip covers more surface area so removal goes faster.  

(whoops! forgot to sign)
Peter Ness


Re: Wanting to buy!

pennsylvania1954
 

Pierre--Red Caboose ATSF but it is a kit. Currently on Ebay, 303156857803.
--
Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Re: Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

Chuck Cover
 

I have been using Solvaset and a toothpick for as long as I can remember.  Put a puddle of Solvaset onto the lettering that you want removed, let it sit for a few minutes and then start scratching it off with the toothpick.  The toothpick will not damage the finish but as the Solvaset begins to soften the lettering it begins to come off.  I repeat this procedure a couple of times until the lettering is gone.  I reletter/renumber over the spot and weather.

 

Chuck Cover

Santa Fe, NM


Photos: Loads & Loading

Bob Chaparro
 

Several photos from the Portal To Texas History website. These can be enlarged.

Steam Boiler Parts Load

https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth860952/?q=Train

https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth860992/?q=Train

Loading Corn

https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth160009/?q=Train

Cotton Load (Poor Quality)

https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth610739/m1/1/?q=Train

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

Peter Ness
 
Edited

In ancient times when dinosaurs ruled the earth I saw a cave painting or stone tablet showing a modeler using a typewriter correction pencil - not the round wheel type - complete with brush on the opposite end, to remove lettering "printed" (I don't think it was heat stamped) from a freight car side. My Mom gave me such an eraser pencil she brought home for work and I tried it with Micro-sol as a cutting medium and it worked like a charm. About a decade or so ago, I lost my typewriter eraser in a house move. At that time I searched for a reasonable alternative and came across the Faber Castell 7056 eraser stick - they produce a couple of different flavors, but this one has the pink-colored eraser material that reminded me of my old one.

I put some Micro-sol over the area I want to remove and have a go at it. Usually I am done with one area in 10 minutes or less.The "erased" surface is clean, glossy and ready for decals.  I have used this on old, enamel or lacquer-painted models as well as new acrylic and "ink-based" painted models with equal success. I sharpen the point when working on a model with lettering next to ribs or bracing, otherwise it only gets sharpened if the tip gets "gunked up". A broad, dull tip covers more surface area so removal goes faster.  

(whoops! forgot to sign)
Peter Ness


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

al.kresse <water.kresse@...>
 

I remember Gen Motors had Framingham, MA, and Wilmington, DE, assembly plants while there were separate chassis and bodies.


Al Kresse

On May 24, 2019 at 12:18 PM "Schleigh Mike via Groups.Io" <mike_schleigh@...> wrote:

 
Hello Group!

According to the 1952 issue of the DL&W's equipment diagrams, pages 15-16A, nearly 300 cars were still in service.  These were equipped with Evans Loaders.  The Erie Lackawanna RR Hist. Soc. has reprints of these diagrams.

Regards from sunny Grove City in western Penna----Mike Schleigh


On Friday, May 24, 2019, 11:04:27 AM EDT, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:


No 1948 but Westerfield site shows both 1945 and 1950 available as a DVD.

Bill Welch


 


 


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

al.kresse <water.kresse@...>
 

Which auto company's plants were supported by the DL&W?

On May 24, 2019 at 12:18 PM "Schleigh Mike via Groups.Io" <mike_schleigh@...> wrote:

 
Hello Group!

According to the 1952 issue of the DL&W's equipment diagrams, pages 15-16A, nearly 300 cars were still in service.  These were equipped with Evans Loaders.  The Erie Lackawanna RR Hist. Soc. has reprints of these diagrams.

Regards from sunny Grove City in western Penna----Mike Schleigh


On Friday, May 24, 2019, 11:04:27 AM EDT, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:


No 1948 but Westerfield site shows both 1945 and 1950 available as a DVD.

Bill Welch


 


 


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

Schleigh Mike
 

Hello Group!

According to the 1952 issue of the DL&W's equipment diagrams, pages 15-16A, nearly 300 cars were still in service.  These were equipped with Evans Loaders.  The Erie Lackawanna RR Hist. Soc. has reprints of these diagrams.

Regards from sunny Grove City in western Penna----Mike Schleigh


On Friday, May 24, 2019, 11:04:27 AM EDT, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:


No 1948 but Westerfield site shows both 1945 and 1950 available as a DVD.

Bill Welch


Re: MILW & NP log trains

Gene Deimling
 

The NP skeleton cars shown in the pictures and plan had a steel center sill. The railroad shops decided to leave them to keep the car together.

Gene Deimling


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

Bill Welch
 

No 1948 but Westerfield site shows both 1945 and 1950 available as a DVD.

Bill Welch


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

Guy Wilber
 

Eric, 

The cars are included within the 11300-11599 series in October, 1950.  All were equipped with Type “E” Evans Auto Loaders with 12 floor tie down chain tubes, or a combination of tubes and internal floor “U” brackets.  The cars had the same configuration in January of 1945...I would “guess” that the Loaders were upgraded from an earlier loader design as the “E” was not available when they were rebuilt in 1935-37.  They were likely upgraded prior to WW II, but I can’t confirm that.  There’s a chance those loaders were changed near the end of the War as the Type “E” design was a common install for 40 foot auto cars.

Mike Delvechio would be your definitive source.

Regards,

Guy Wilber
Reno, Nevada




On May 24, 2019, at 7:05 AM, Eric Thur <prrtrainguy@...> wrote:

I am trying to get information on DL&W  11500 series Auto Boxcars re-built 35-37. These cars had Auto Racks installed when built, but my question is, Were the Auto racks ever removed and the cars used for Auto Parts loads?  If so, what year were the Auto Racks removed? Were Parts racks installed?  Did the ""AUTOMOBILE"  lettering get painted out at any point or  did it remain? I was interested in Building Yarmouth Kit  YMW-115, but want to build a late 1940's version.  The Kit is lettered " As Built" Mid-1930's. I am unable to find any photo's of this car later than 1939 on line, so I have no idea what lettering scheme these cars had 1940-1950.

 Any Information would help,

 Thank You

 Eric Thur


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

Eric Thur
 

On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 07:21 AM, Benjamin Hom wrote:
Ben,
 Can you point me in the direction where to get an ORER for 1948?

Eric


Re: DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

Benjamin Hom
 

Eric Thur asked:
"I am trying to get information on DL&W 11500 series Auto Boxcars re-built 35-37. These cars had Auto Racks installed when built, but my question is, Were the Auto racks ever removed and the cars used for Auto Parts loads?  If so, what year were the Auto Racks removed? Were Parts racks installed?  Did the ""AUTOMOBILE"  lettering get painted out at any point or  did it remain? I was interested in Building Yarmouth Kit  YMW-115, but want to build a late 1940's version.  The Kit is lettered " As Built" Mid-1930's. I am unable to find any photo's of this car later than 1939 on line, so I have no idea what lettering scheme these cars had 1940-1950."

To verify special handling equipment, get an ORER for the time you wish to model and consult the notes section in the DL&W listings for that car series.


Ben Hom


Re: Removing car numbers on Walthers cars.

 

Currently on Facebook, there is a guy that replaced the lettering on a Walthers SOO caboose using Solvaset and a pink eraser. Said it takes about an hour per side to remove the lettering. This method looks to work well.
 
As far as using Scalecoat wash, I'd be very hesitant doing that. You'll probably be taking off a layer of paint as well.
 
Dave Strahlendorf
Erlanger, Ky


DL&W 40' Rebuilt Automobile Boxcars were they ever converted to Auto Parts ?

Eric Thur
 

I am trying to get information on DL&W  11500 series Auto Boxcars re-built 35-37. These cars had Auto Racks installed when built, but my question is, Were the Auto racks ever removed and the cars used for Auto Parts loads?  If so, what year were the Auto Racks removed? Were Parts racks installed?  Did the ""AUTOMOBILE"  lettering get painted out at any point or  did it remain? I was interested in Building Yarmouth Kit  YMW-115, but want to build a late 1940's version.  The Kit is lettered " As Built" Mid-1930's. I am unable to find any photo's of this car later than 1939 on line, so I have no idea what lettering scheme these cars had 1940-1950.

 Any Information would help,

 Thank You

 Eric Thur


FW: [CBQ] Redo/Upgrade BRHS MOW Decal Project #poll

Nelson Moyer
 

I’m forwarding this email from Brian Howell re interest level for reprinting the BRHS MOW decal set with scale car decals for the Walthers and Bachmann scale cars. Reprints will be based upon prospective purchases. If you want to see this happen, vote.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

 

From: CBQ@groups.io [mailto:CBQ@groups.io] On Behalf Of Bryan Howell via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2019 7:58 AM
To: CBQ@groups.io
Subject: [CBQ] Redo/Upgrade BRHS MOW Decal Project #poll

 

A new poll has been created:

If the BRHS were to redo/update the MOW decal set, would you buy 1 or more sets? Artwork for scale test cars would be added on this update with the potential for more based on input. The purpose of this goal is to gauge overall interest.

1. No
2. 1 Set
3. 2+ sets

Vote Now


Re: Tangent 1952-design 8,000 gal GATC welded tank car

Andy Laurent
 


Tangent 1952-design 8,000 gal GATC welded tank car

Andy Laurent
 

Gents,
I did not see this advertised yet, even though the announcement was made May 11.  Tangent has produced another transition-era tank car in HO (although the schemes in the first run are just within this group's limit).

GATC 1952-design 8,000 gallon welded tank car:

https://www.tangentscalemodels.com/new-model-general-american-1952-design-8000-gallon-welded-general-service-tank-car/  

Cheers,
Andy
Wisconsin


Re: Wanting to buy!

Pierre Oliver
 

Yeah, I was rather perturbed when I realized the IMRC seems to have lost or dumped the Red Caboose moulds.
Doesn’t make much sense to me 


On May 23, 2019, at 7:54 PM, radiodial868 <radiodial@...> wrote:

That's a sought after but rare to find kit nowadays. Lots of the other version though.  I gave up and put a row of Archer Rivets down the edges and hoped my Yarmouth, Kadee & Hi-Tech details would make the rivet counters overlook that the ends capped the sides vs the sides covering the ends.  If you kinda squint...

RJ Dial
Burlingame, Ca


Re: Wanting to buy!

radiodial868
 

That's a sought after but rare to find kit nowadays. Lots of the other version though.  I gave up and put a row of Archer Rivets down the edges and hoped my Yarmouth, Kadee & Hi-Tech details would make the rivet counters overlook that the ends capped the sides vs the sides covering the ends.  If you kinda squint...

RJ Dial
Burlingame, Ca